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From: wp88
Date: 04-07-2005, 01:48 PM (1 of 10)
| I have Simplicity pattern 9469 and I have now managed to make a couple of shirts, not too bad for a man and a beginner. I would like to make the collar narrower than the pattern as I find it a bit bulky around the neck. Do I just cut some away to make it less deep or is there another way. I find the pattern instructions not that brilliant to follow and managed better with this sew whats new site that had a shirt on it to do. At least the instructions make a lot of sense compared to Simplicity. I have several sewing books including shirtmaking by David Coffin which is good but that will be better as my experience grows I feel. Any advice appreciated thanks in advance. |
User: wp88
Member since: 03-28-2005 Total posts: 35 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 04-07-2005, 04:33 PM (2 of 10)
|
If you just want it the collar narrower, I'd just shave a little off the top edge. Make sure you like the shape when you are done. If you take anything off the sides you are going to have to make changes at the neck. Pam can probably help with that. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: paroper
Date: 04-08-2005, 09:10 AM (3 of 10)
|
I'd do the same....just maintain the curves that the collar has so that the shape is right and just shave a bit from the outside edge. You might do a little better if you take a little larger seam instead of trimming with scissors. You need to remember that because the collar is a narrow piece of fabric, a little is a LOT. You might want to do a "mock up" of the collar out of scraps...I'd do just the collar and the top neck band (if it has one) and see if that is the look you want. If you baste them together, you can take...say 1/8-1/4 from the top edge of the collar, check it and shave again if you want (just keep track of how much you remove). Once you've got the right amount, I would make a second pattern piece, label it as the narrower collar and add it to my pattern envelope. That way you'll be able to keep both collars since this is something that regularly changes on shirts. When making design changes to a pattern, I always use a copy of the pattern (not the original). The difference is usually just a slash here or there plus a seam allowance. Shirts are a lot of work so I'd certainly check it before I did the "real thing" pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: MariLynnTX
Date: 04-08-2005, 05:29 PM (4 of 10)
|
Usually it is enough just to remove the seam allowance from the bottom edge (NOT the neck edge) of the collar pattern and just stitch a new seam allowance. MariLynntx
Life is a song...we give it harmony or dissonance.
|
User: MariLynnTX
Member since: 08-13-2001 Total posts: 256 |
From: wp88
Date: 04-08-2005, 05:54 PM (5 of 10)
| Many thanks for your suggestions I will try as you suggest and make a copy on surplus fabric first before doing another shirt. I will then keep the original pattern and the new one. I do have a one piece collar pattern and that is better but I found that shirt harder to do the than the two piece for some reason.I maybe able to take the collar of that instead. I will have to experiment but at first thought I had to do as the pattern until reading other forum questions. Thank you all again very much appreciated. |
User: wp88
Member since: 03-28-2005 Total posts: 35 |
From: MariLynnTX
Date: 04-08-2005, 07:09 PM (6 of 10)
|
When using different collar patterns it is necessary to place the necklines of collar you want to use on neckline of collar that came with the pattern of the shirt you are using. They need to MATCH or they will not fit right when sewn together. If those necklines match, the collar will lay right on the shirt. When I was doing custom sewing, I often used the collar of one pattern, the sleeves of another, and the cuffs or pockets of a third! MariLynntx
Life is a song...we give it harmony or dissonance.
|
User: MariLynnTX
Member since: 08-13-2001 Total posts: 256 |
From: msjoy333
Date: 04-13-2005, 07:09 PM (7 of 10)
|
Sewing doctor's smock - selfmade pattern. Help! Has lapels and a collar and I can't figure out the collar. Any suggestions welcome. mary alice |
User: msjoy333
Member since: 04-13-2005 Total posts: 3 |
From: paroper
Date: 04-13-2005, 07:28 PM (8 of 10)
|
Wow, Mary, there are several ways to do that. I'm not sure that I can tell you exactly how to do it without pictures. One of them requires that the lapel be part of the front pattern and the collar as a bottom collar which is smaller and sewn to the actual top front and back and a top collar which is larger and sewn to the lapel and front facing which is one piece. The Lapel looks pretty much like you might think, but the collar is a funny shape. It is rounded like the neck, then turns and is flat where it touches the lapel and then turns again to make the notch. There is a type of collar/lapel where it is self-notched and the lapel and collar are joined at the center back and applied as one piece. The front (under lapel) is usually cut from the front pattern piece, but it can be an add on...if a dart is taken at the crease line, it turns better. The under collar extends only to the shoulder line of the front and is smaller than the upper collar. There are a couple other applications but this is a pretty hefty undertaking without a pattern or a book to look at. Even with a pattern it is very easy to put the pattern pieces in upside down because of the strange shapes of the collars. Be sure that if you do this, to make a mark through the patterns (to make notches from) so that you can tell which pieces you are dealing with. The easy way is to design your pattern flat, draw your lines while the pattern is together and mark across the boundry between the pattern pieces. Then the "notches" are exactly in the right places. It is much easier to make a rounded lapel or no lapel/collar (like a v-neck lab coat.) pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: paroper
Date: 04-13-2005, 07:29 PM (9 of 10)
|
If you happen to have a woman's or man's lapel jacket in the house, you'd be miles ahead in your design because you could use it for a guide.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: MariLynnTX
Date: 04-13-2005, 07:35 PM (10 of 10)
|
I would not try to make a doctor's smock without a pattern. I would buy a pattern, because men's collars and lapels are difficult to cut so that they will look right when stitched. It is hard enough when you go by a pattern when cutting them. And men are not all shaped the same and usually need a fitting to get them to look neat and professional. MariLynntx
Life is a song...we give it harmony or dissonance.
|
User: MariLynnTX
Member since: 08-13-2001 Total posts: 256 |
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