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This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and
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From: niko20
Date: 04-12-2005, 11:29 AM (1 of 22)
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Hi, some of you have seen me here already, but I'm fairly new. Anyway, I am somewhat discouraged even though I new I'm still starting to learn and can't expect my garments to be perfect the first time! A few days ago I finished my collar shirt project (Simplicity 7187), and everything actually came out very good, even the collar! I'll have to take some pictures. But the length was way too long, going below my butt almost. So I decided to try taking some length off. I put some shirts I already own up against it to see what is a good length..but that was a few days ago. Sadly last night I didn't follow the same plan of copying a shirt I already own, but instead asked my wife what she thought of how much length to take off, she thought about 3.5 inches (really, it was pretty long!). So I decided "here goes nothing!" and cut it off and re-hemmed it. Oops....now it seems too short. I mean I can tuck it in and get away with it, but when it's untucked it just looks funny, like the sleeves are too big ...anyway that made me sad because I worked for 2 weeks on that shirt, it was my first shirt project, and it had actually come out great so far, and of course I had to go a ruin it  I've actually entertained thoughts of re-seaming the cut off piece back on lol.ALso this weekend I made a basic T-Shirt from cotton knit (McCall's pattern M9652) and it also came out pretty good (I made the medium size) - the sleeves fit awesomely, and the body is alright too. But I am not happy about the collar at all - I mean it came out well also, but it's just too big! The neckline is bigger than what I like. When I mean neckline I mean the hole for your neck is too big around for my preference. I don't know if this particular pattern was designed to have a larger neckline maybe? I noticed last night on the pattern piece itself it actually has text that says (1" lower than normal neckline) but I don't know if that is what it really means. It was good however to get some more practice on sewing in sleeves, and they came out excellent at least. Anyway for T-Shirts I like a tight neckline and this is not like that. It was fun learning how to do the collar on the T-Shirt though, it's not that hard and looks pretty good, it's just too big for my taste, Oh and I had bought some cool white material with a small pattern on it for another collar shrirt (this time a collar with facing) and so Sunday night I was kinda tired but decided to cut out the cloth, I looked at it and it didn't look like it had a right or wrong side so I folded the cloth and cut out my pattern pieces. In the morning I looked at it again and noticed yes the cloth appeared to have a right and wrong side after all although slight so my pattern pieces are all backwards now..Like on side of the front is right side out but the other is wrong side out...*sigh* It's not a huge difference in appearance but I don't know if they are going to be usable. I figure I should put it together anyhow to get more practice at least. Guess I should learn to wait to cut until I am not tired  So that was also a bit discouraging. All good lessons to learn I guess though, to take my time. On the first shirt project I took my time and everything was great until I got impatient about the bottom length.. So basically I really need to learn how to measure and alter stuff without screwing up all my hard work, and I know I'm just a beginner but it was somewhat discouraging so I just need some encouragement.. Thanks for letting my whine -niko |
User: niko20
Member since: 03-23-2005 Total posts: 19 |
From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 04-12-2005, 11:51 AM (2 of 22)
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Niko, Are you cutting all pieces one at a time?? you said one of your shirt fronts was correct, but the other had wrong side out.. I don't understand why you did not cut them out at same time on folded material.. That way they would have been correct.. Did you have a reason to do them one at a time ?? Is your fabric very narrow ?? I admit I can usually find a better way that the pattern guide, but most of the time I do cut doubles at the same time.. (ex.. 2 fronts, 2 sleeves, etc..) If you are going to do them one at a time, you will have to remember to flip the pattern piece on the 2nd cutting or you will have two right fronts etc... Sew With Love
Libby |
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002 Total posts: 2022 
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From: MaryW
Date: 04-12-2005, 11:53 AM (3 of 22)
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Niko, this happens to everyone. There is not one person who has not cut a pr. of pants too short or a sleeve too tight sometime. The only way you will never make mistakes is if you don't do anything. How much fun is that? Live and learn. Yes, you can whine too. We all need to vent once in a while. Your next shirt will be just fine. 
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542 
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From: niko20
Date: 04-12-2005, 12:28 PM (4 of 22)
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Niko, Are you cutting all pieces one at a time?? you said one of your shirt fronts was correct, but the other had wrong side out.. I don't understand why you did not cut them out at same time on folded material.. That way they would have been correct.. Did you have a reason to do them one at a time ?? Is your fabric very narrow ?? I admit I can usually find a better way that the pattern guide, but most of the time I do cut doubles at the same time.. (ex.. 2 fronts, 2 sleeves, etc..) If you are going to do them one at a time, you will have to remember to flip the pattern piece on the 2nd cutting or you will have two right fronts etc... No, I cut doubles, but the fabric was not folded - for the back of the shirt the layout showed folded, but for the fronts and yokes and sleeves it was two pieces together (for 45" material having it folded would not be wide enough for all the pieces to fit). So I undfolded the fabric, cut it in two pieces and layed one on top of the other with grain aligned. BUT since I didn't pay attention to right and wrong sides, one was wrong side down and the other right side up. Which means the pattern pieces would not match correctly when turned around. Hope that makes sense. I followed the layout correclty but I didn't have the sides of the fabric turned correctly because I had not noticed that it had a right and wrong side (it appeared the same to me at the time until next morning) -niko |
User: niko20
Member since: 03-23-2005 Total posts: 19 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 04-12-2005, 02:52 PM (5 of 22)
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It really sounds like you are doing pretty good. Just slow down a bit. Read your pattern directions through completely and decide what you will do each step of the way. Then think about the steps as you do them. Just don't get discouraged and you'll be fine. It sounds like you should get another T-shirt pattern. It might be easier than trying to alter the one you have. And next time you make the shirt, shorten it when you cut it. There might be a line that says shorten here. If there is, cut some out on the pattern at that point before you cut the fabric. Next time you cut, do it in good light so you are sure right sides are together. It doesn't hurt to always assume there is a right side and a wrong side. I usually assume there is nap too -- just in case. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: niko20
Date: 04-12-2005, 08:06 PM (6 of 22)
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Well I know this is going to sound kinda weird but I actually have been able to fix the shirt I cut too short by sewing back on the part I cut off. This shirt has curves sides and a tuck in back, so I sewed the part back on, right sides together, around a curve like I sew sleeves and collars (the easiest way I've found to sew sleeves and collars is to pin them while curving them around my fingers, and then use the sewing machine free arm and let the cloth wrap in a circular shape while sewing to make sure there are no gathers. Hard to explain but it works very well). Anyway, I think it actually looks kinda neat because now on the bottom I have a "decorative" seam all the way around which follows the curve of the bottom of the shirt. It adds some design to the bottom of the shirt and kinda balances out the look, since I didn't add any pockets (and don't plan to) to the shirt. Of course I don't know what my wife's opinion will be  but I think it's kinda neat actually.-niko |
User: niko20
Member since: 03-23-2005 Total posts: 19 |
From: Magot
Date: 04-12-2005, 08:56 PM (7 of 22)
Well done Niko, first rule of sewing - Blagg it! Tell them it is a design feature not a flaw  Who's to know you didn't mean to do it that way all along.I have yet to conquer shirts to my satisfaction so it sounds as though you are doing really well. As Mary said, we have all cut something out wrong some time or another. I always try to lay out pattern pieces and then go away and come back next day before I put scissors to fabric and check it all again. Saved myself from a few disasters that way. love and kisses, Jan
Guts-R-Us Cells a Speciality DNA to order. |
User: Magot
Member since: 12-22-2002 Total posts: 3626 
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From: SummersEchos
Date: 04-12-2005, 10:50 PM (8 of 22)
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I feel you are doing a great job! If you don't make a mistake now and then you will never learn. The more you sew the more you will understand all the in and outs. Keep up the good work and keep trying. We all have the wadders that we mess up on and either throw out or toss in a pile to try to fix later. Summer Summer
FREE FALLIN |
User: SummersEchos
Member since: 09-29-2004 Total posts: 884 |
From: paroper
Date: 04-12-2005, 11:49 PM (9 of 22)
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Good job on the shirt! When you sewed the shirt back on you shortened it by two seam allowances. Depending on how large they are, it might be as much as an inch or more. When you shortened your shirt, you probably also hemmed it, if you didn't allow for that, it would also explain some of the (short) length problem. It is amazing how much length is in a single inch when it comes to hems...very deceptive! A lot of tux shirts have a piece sewn on the bottom. Sometimes you'll see it in other shirts too. You've just designed your first original designer shirt!! Congratulations. As for the shirt that was cut wrong...make a trip to the store with your fingers crossed. They may have a length of the same fabric for your miss matched shirt front. You just need a length as long as the miss cut piece. Go to the same store though. Although with the new dye processes, many fabrics from different dye lots are virtually identical, sometimes they aren't. Every so often, even now, after years of sewing, I mess something up so bad that it takes me weeks to finish...sometimes I never do. It can be easy to be discouraged. Just hang in there you are doing very well!!! pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: niko20
Date: 04-13-2005, 09:54 AM (10 of 22)
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I found a picture of a shirt that has a large decorative hem. The curve "seam" looks like what my shirt looks like now. http://www.tangerineboutique.com/mens8079det.htm My wife said I should add a decorative stitch along the curve to make it look more on purpose (using the same color of thread as the shirt of course - otherwise it may look too "country") -nt20 |
User: niko20
Member since: 03-23-2005 Total posts: 19 |
From: MaryW
Date: 04-13-2005, 10:47 AM (11 of 22)
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Niko, your shirt sounds very cool. Don't get discouraged by mistakes. Everything is a learning experience. I really think you are on your way to designing your own menswear.
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542
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From: Hogmami
Date: 04-13-2005, 11:46 AM (12 of 22)
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I would love to see my husband or son do what you have done. I think it is great.
Carolyn
Michigan |
User: Hogmami
Member since: 09-30-2004 Total posts: 800 
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From: Serenity
Date: 04-13-2005, 11:54 AM (13 of 22)
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Hello Niko, Happy belated "welcome". I think you are doing a great job. When I read your p[ost I thought...well hehas found out one of the rules of sewing... "Flaw" = Commonly known as - UICM= Unique Identifying Creative Mark. Niko we have all been there.. Mary is correct. And you know what...we still have those "Flaw" days... Arub "The struggle is not greater than the goal". Be blessed. Stay encouraged.
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User: Serenity
Member since: 01-12-2005 Total posts: 85 
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From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 04-13-2005, 07:22 PM (14 of 22)
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Niko, I do a lot of related sewing things in my bedroom at night, while watching TV or listening to music.. My 70 yr old eyes sometimes don't see all the fine details at night.. I wish I had one of those new lights but don't have a place for it..One trick I learned about the wrong side/right side problem is when I have to open out fabric I unfold it and if I have enough fabric I cut a piece and then I carefully check and put right sides together before I put the pattern on the fabric.. I try to do this in the daytime, I have learned to look for another task, if it is night time when I get ready for that step.. I think your shirt sounds fabulous.. To quote The late Bob Ross, "we don't make mistakes, we just have happy accidents." He had (still has reruns) a program on PBS for years showing How to do oil paintings. (scenic) I attended a seminar he had here one time and he took a brush full of blue paint and slapped it in the middle of a canvas and proceeded to make a beautiful waterfall from it.. I use that thought for inspiration a lot when I'm sewing.. LOL..I use my fingers to set in sleeves the way you described.. Works! ! Sew With Love
Libby |
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002 Total posts: 2022
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From: niko20
Date: 04-13-2005, 07:57 PM (15 of 22)
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Thanks for all the useful tips everyone ! Here's some pictures of my shirt, with the decorative bottom hem as well. http://webpages.charter.net/nikolatesla20/sew/shirt1.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/nikolatesla20/sew/shirt2.jpg The collar fits perfect, but I need to see if I can take a little bit out of the side seams just to have it fit my body a little closer. At this point tho I'm scared to touch it much more lol lest I make a real mess that I can't fix! -niko |
User: niko20
Member since: 03-23-2005 Total posts: 19 |
From: paroper
Date: 04-13-2005, 08:08 PM (16 of 22)
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You cannot ruin your shirt until you cut it...so go for it!
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: HAIN_Angel
Date: 04-14-2005, 12:51 AM (17 of 22)
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Niko, The shirt looks pretty impressive! Great job. My hubby sews a little. Its nice to see another guy sew. This is great!!! Mary from OREGON |
User: HAIN_Angel
Member since: 03-25-2005 Total posts: 7 |
From: Serenity
Date: 04-14-2005, 07:28 AM (18 of 22)
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And you say you are a beginner...HA!.... I think you did a great job and it really shows, I am helping a dear friend and she is having th hardest time with collars. She called me and the only words she could use was, "the collar is..well.. all jacked up". I am going to visit her in a few months and give her a week long class on collars. She has been sewing for years but recently shared with me why her clothing that she makes, which actually look very good, well constructed, all have no collars. I had never really though about it and figured she just did not care for them. So you are doing great, keep up the good work and I look forward to seeing more of your creations. Arub "The struggle is not greater than the goal". Be blessed. Stay encouraged.
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User: Serenity
Member since: 01-12-2005 Total posts: 85
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From: DorothyL
Date: 04-14-2005, 07:40 AM (19 of 22)
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Looks great. Good job. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: Magot
Date: 04-14-2005, 11:23 AM (20 of 22)
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Darn it Niko, that just looks to $^%*Q@%43 good! The decorative hem is ,as you say, simply a design feature. Great collar, well done.
love and kisses, Jan
Guts-R-Us Cells a Speciality DNA to order. |
User: Magot
Member since: 12-22-2002 Total posts: 3626
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From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 04-14-2005, 12:22 PM (21 of 22)
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Niko, My Ex used to like his shirts to be fitted, so here is what I did with a bought shirt.. try on and button all the buttons.. Have you wife (or someone) gather some of the fabric at the sides and evenly pin . down under the arms , all the way to the bottom.. Now , does it feel right to you ,?? If not, adjust the pins. take shirt off , turn wrong side out and use a chalk pencil and mark where the pins are.. make sure you are keeping the front and back parts evenly spaced .. These marks will be your new side seams.. start at the underarm and sleeve junction and re-stitch down to bottom of shirt.. You may have a problem with the curve on this shirt, but this method works great on purchased shirts.. From now on, you can just adjust your pattern pieces before you cut them out.. Sew With Love
Libby |
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002 Total posts: 2022
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From: paroper
Date: 04-14-2005, 12:25 PM (22 of 22)
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Before you make your adjustments, measure and make sure they are the same on both sides. I usually make my pinning and then adjust just a little bit less...I tend to take out a little too much ease when I pin. Making this adjustment seems to be just about right.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
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