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From: bklyn aj
Date: 04-28-2005, 03:48 PM (1 of 9)
| I've been making cute pants for my daughter (am very proud of my growing sewing skills!), but I have such trouble ironing the hem straight. What am I doing wrong? Are there any tips out there that might help me? Thanks in advance! |
User: bklyn aj
Member since: 04-28-2005 Total posts: 2 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 04-28-2005, 04:45 PM (2 of 9)
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Do you have one of those little hem gages with the little slide thing? They are a big help -- if you cut it straight to start with. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: woodywoodpecker
Date: 04-28-2005, 05:32 PM (3 of 9)
| I use a 6" metal ruler to measure the depth of the hem and pin as I go and then press before I sew. |
User: woodywoodpecker
Member since: 11-07-2003 Total posts: 242 |
From: smith972
Date: 04-28-2005, 07:52 PM (4 of 9)
|
I found that my body double works best for getting the hem lines right for clothing i make for myself or items that will fit on there....if i cant put it on the body double then the next best option is the hem guide but you must be sure that the unhemed leg is cut str8...if not it will be side ways....i use safty pins depending on the fabric to hold it in place or masking tape again depending on the fabric... HTH Jada |
User: smith972
Member since: 09-10-2004 Total posts: 241 
|
From: paroper
Date: 04-29-2005, 12:19 AM (5 of 9)
|
If you are hemming a skirt that has an angle, you have to turn the hem straight up from the fold. If you don't, you end up with the fabric off to one side and you have all this left-over stuff that is a problem and the skirt hem will look warped. If the bottom is too much fuller than the skirt, you may have to gather it when you go to hem. What I do is I measure straight up whatever the fold is, say 2 inches and I pin or press...then I move over about 3 inches and do that again. Once I have two points of reference, I "spread out the excess" between them and do the same between the two pins I have already pressed or pinned.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: pizzanut
Date: 04-29-2005, 06:09 AM (6 of 9)
An easy way for me to get straight hems is to fold up the desired hem length on the seam lines and pin, then I pull the seams with my thumbs away from each other forcing the rest of the hem to fold up. Then I squash the center of the hem with my index finger, grab a pin and once I have the centers of the hem pinned I can easily put in a few more before I press in the crease and sew. My hems always turn out great, even tho it's the one job I like the least.  Linda |
User: pizzanut
Member since: 10-08-2004 Total posts: 9 |
From: mamagoose
Date: 04-29-2005, 07:30 AM (7 of 9)
|
Once you have established a set hem length (this will apply to your second + pair of pants from the same pattern), transfer the fold line to your pattern. I know this is easier with a grown person than with a growing daughter, but she can try on a previous pair and you can add how much ever. So, when you are cutting out the pattern, clip the fabric on the edge of the seam allowance on both sides. Take these pieces over to the iron, along with your facings, darts, etc., which need pressed and with a straight edge (like a manila folder or a metal hem plate) turn up the hem and press. That pressed fold will stay until you get to finishing the hem and it's easier to do when flat. You have given yourself another match mark and if the fabric was going to stretch during the process (of tugging and pulling), then you are not misguided. The bottom area (sides) of the hem of the pants is probably a bit on the bias one way or the other and bias stretches. If you are going to lengthen your pants, it's best to do this above the hemline anyway, because if not, you'll have to adjust the hem for an opposite flare. I hope this isn't too confuzz-ing! If you look at the original pattern, you can see what I mean. Just to clarify, you still "unfold" the hem area in order to sew up the vertical seams. Once you see how advantageous this is, you'll venture out more to not following the directions in the order they are written. Good luck and happy sewing! mamagoose |
User: mamagoose
Member since: 01-26-2002 Total posts: 168 |
From: westbrook
Date: 05-05-2005, 10:27 AM (8 of 9)
|
sew a row of stitching 1/4" from the raw edge (on many machines it is the distance from the needle to the edge of the presser foot) Using the row of stitching as a guide, turn up on that row of stitching and press. Sew another row of stitching 5/8" from folded edge Again turn up on using that row of stitching as a guide and press. hem. Since different garments need different size hems, adjust as necessary. |
User: westbrook
Member since: 12-13-2004 Total posts: 35 |
From: AndreaSews
Date: 05-05-2005, 08:19 PM (9 of 9)
|
good tips, all. bklyn aj, I've found that fabric choice influences how easy or hard it is, too. If the fabric finger-presses well on the rack at the store (fold it between your fingers, squeeze and run your fingers down a few inches to see if you can make a slight crease), then all parts of the project run more smoothly! I've learned that lesson the hard way!!!
Andrea
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User: AndreaSews
Member since: 02-18-2005 Total posts: 1007 
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