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From: Selene
Date: 04-30-2005, 03:48 PM (1 of 21)
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Hello everyone. I was wondering if anyone could help me with this. I'm trying to work out how I could draft a skirt a bit like this: http://www.jekatex.nl/laughingvamp/enlargements/gt108.html It's kind of got and extended waistband with a shape very much like a corselet and decorative lacing at the front (I know the picture isn't too clear). I think the fabric is stretch velvet. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated! Selene 
Selene
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User: Selene
Member since: 03-03-2004 Total posts: 71 
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From: AndreaSews
Date: 05-07-2005, 06:50 PM (2 of 21)
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It's an interesting clothing line. And it looks like a fun project to try to do. I'd start with a skirt pattern, which you probably already have on hand, and then modify the waist band by connecting it to the corselet. Do you have or have access to one to examine carefully for the construction technique? It does look like it must have boning in it to help it keep its shape at the top. It also looks like at the front center, where it ties together, it comes to an upward point. It's really pretty in crushed velvet. ...Gosh, that model is awfully thin... (is it a mannekin?)
Andrea
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User: AndreaSews
Member since: 02-18-2005 Total posts: 1007 
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From: Selene
Date: 05-08-2005, 03:36 AM (3 of 21)
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Yes, I find it a really nice clothing line. I actually have one of their dresses: http://www.jekatex.nl/laughingvamp/enlargements/gt320.html in purple, it looks very beautiful, I will post a pic of me wearing it even if it's RTW. I once tried on this skirt, and it looked nice although it didn't quite fit. The shame is I didn't get to have a good look at it and now the shop that sold them closed down. What kind of skirt do you think the pattern's based on? I have access to the Burda bustier patterns (link is on my interfacing question in the general board), perhaps the short one would do the job? And then I could do the decorative lacing like in view B (back), what do you think? I don't remember it having any boning, but I would probably put some in (the plastic, tape-covered one which you can sew over). Any ideas are greatly welcome! Selene
Selene
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User: Selene
Member since: 03-03-2004 Total posts: 71
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From: Selene
Date: 05-08-2005, 04:19 AM (4 of 21)
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I've put up a few I had lying around my pc. http://selene.photosite.com/laughingvampire/ Selene
Selene
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User: Selene
Member since: 03-03-2004 Total posts: 71
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From: AndreaSews
Date: 05-09-2005, 09:06 PM (5 of 21)
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Well, I give you credit for taking in this challenge! First, I visited the bustier page, and the short one looks fine, except it does not appear to open/lace up in front like your target dress. Although, I think for most corsets etc these days, the laces are more ornamental, and there's some other, more convenient way of getting in and out of them, so perhaps it's not a problem. If lacing up is the way to be sure it'll _stay_ up, then your search continues. Otherwise, you can sew the ribbon/lace into the princess seams of the garment and just tie it to make it pretty. The skirt...You could do most anything here...In fact, you _ought_ to, and then take credit for the whole design! But here's one from simplicity that I think would make that look work for you. What I like about it is that it has panels, creating vertical seams that would come up to meet the princess seams of the corselet. I think a back zipper and a faux lace-up will close it up nicely.
Andrea
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User: AndreaSews
Member since: 02-18-2005 Total posts: 1007
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From: SummersEchos
Date: 05-09-2005, 10:01 PM (6 of 21)
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If I am not mistaken, the skirt is your basic circle skirt, with a back zipper. Then the waist cincher goes over it. I would put boning in it after I get the sides together. Try it on and see where it need the support so it does not sag. Summer Summer
FREE FALLIN |
User: SummersEchos
Member since: 09-29-2004 Total posts: 884 |
From: Selene
Date: 05-10-2005, 03:39 AM (7 of 21)
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Thanks for the replies both of you! Very helpful! The lacing will just be decorative and I will have it close up with a zipper at the back. I will modifiy the pattern slightly so that the waist cincher has the lacing that view B has at the back, but this time at the front. I just have one question concerning the fabric: I will use the same kind of fabric as in the original, stretchy crushed velvet, and the bustier patterns are for non-stretch materials. Will this change anything in the construction/final look of it? I've never drafted anything for stretch materials. Do I have to modify anything in the original pattern? Also, when you say a circle skirt, what are you thinking of, a full, 3/4 or half circle? I was thinking too of a gored skirt, would that be more suitable for the look I want to achieve or not? "But here's one from simplicity that I think would make that look work for you." Andrea, which one are you refering to? Selene
Selene
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User: Selene
Member since: 03-03-2004 Total posts: 71
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From: SummersEchos
Date: 05-10-2005, 10:29 AM (8 of 21)
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A gored skirt would be nice. Give the sleakness at the top and flare at the bottom. For a circle skirt it would depend on how much fullness you wanted. I have found when working with crushed velvet, is to make sure you keep the stretch straight. You do not want the cincher to sag so I would use a good foundation under it, something very stiff. I would line the stretchy velvet and place the shaping between the lining and the velvet. Blind stitch the boning to the velvet to help keep it shape. If you have more than a front and a back piece to the cincher, it will help keep the velvet from stretching out of shape. I did a corset out of crushed panne, and I had to keep making sure the stretch was straight and it was secured so it wouldn't sag or droop. Another thing is to hang your skirt for 24 hours to let it stretch, then hem it. Hope this helps a little. Summer Summer
FREE FALLIN |
User: SummersEchos
Member since: 09-29-2004 Total posts: 884 |
From: Selene
Date: 05-10-2005, 12:48 PM (9 of 21)
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Thankyou very much Summer! What exactly do you mean by keeping the stretch straight? And by foundation are you speaking of some kind of fusible interfacing? I'm not too sure if this is what you mean... The bustier has several pieces to it (about 8-10). Selene
Selene
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User: Selene
Member since: 03-03-2004 Total posts: 71
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From: SummersEchos
Date: 05-10-2005, 04:55 PM (10 of 21)
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No do not use fusible interfacing on stretch velvet/oanne. It will not work!!!!!!!!!!!!! Only sew in. It is good the bustier has lots of pieces. Will help keeping the material from sagging. When you feel the stretch velvet/panne you will see it has lots of stretch, sometimes to much. So if your stretch isn't all straight going in the same direction, you will have a mess. You will end up with dips and bumps, curves where you don't want them. When I made a cape using that material I had the stretch going up and down the cape. It was lined in the same material, quite heavy I think. Then it had to hang for a week for me to try to hem it. I thought it was all straight then I would look again and it was not! It was one of those full length capes people wear at Halloween or Ren Fen festivals. I guess what I am trrying to say is make sure it is on the straight of grain, or the true bias. Summer Summer
FREE FALLIN |
User: SummersEchos
Member since: 09-29-2004 Total posts: 884 |
From: Magot
Date: 05-10-2005, 05:39 PM (11 of 21)
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I assume if the bustier is just for the finished look then you would not bother to make eyelets but add small ribbon loops into the seam for the lacing to go through. Dresses I've seen like this work this way and a small corset-y type top I made for my daughter looked fine like that. I added black lace inset down the seam as well and it looked fine. The purple dress is great Selene.
love and kisses, Jan
Guts-R-Us Cells a Speciality DNA to order. |
User: Magot
Member since: 12-22-2002 Total posts: 3626 
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From: AndreaSews
Date: 05-11-2005, 04:34 PM (12 of 21)
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selene, my apologies--I found the nice skirt and then forgot to put in the link! http://www.simplicity.com/designFrame.cfm?designId=10415&design=5914 Good questions about the crushed velvet. It certainly must have some stretch to it, which usually lends itself to a simpler design. I'm not sure I'd be up for the task myself, but do stabilize!! (sew-in) Andrea
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User: AndreaSews
Member since: 02-18-2005 Total posts: 1007
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From: Selene
Date: 05-12-2005, 03:04 AM (13 of 21)
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Thanks for the kind replies. I thought that perhaps I could face it with the same fabric, or should I use something with no stretch? The original skirt has eyelets put in, I'm not sure about that yet, I know that for decorative reasons it doesn't need them, put I think it looks nice! Andrea, thanks for the link! The skirt is very pretty! Selene
Selene
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User: Selene
Member since: 03-03-2004 Total posts: 71
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From: SummersEchos
Date: 05-12-2005, 09:56 AM (14 of 21)
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You need something to keep it from stretching and sagging. If you have stiff interfacing that will do the trick then it can be the same. If it doesn't have something to keep its shape you will be disappointed with how it looks. The eyelets are a nice touch, but using ribbon loops is also a very decorative way. I myself would use the ribbon loops due to the type of material. Summer Summer
FREE FALLIN |
User: SummersEchos
Member since: 09-29-2004 Total posts: 884 |
From: Selene
Date: 05-14-2005, 02:56 AM (15 of 21)
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Thankyou again! I will get onto this project as soon as I finish my current one (skirt and bustier for a family celebration on the 21st of may) and I get my degree piano exams over!! Selene
Selene
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User: Selene
Member since: 03-03-2004 Total posts: 71
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From: AndreaSews
Date: 05-20-2005, 07:54 PM (16 of 21)
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I just had a thought for you. The May issue of Sewing Savvy magazine has an article about using boneing for structure in formalwear. Also, I came across this pattern that shows how to make the skirt and lower portion of the bodice together. It looks like it could prevent you from re-inventing the wheel. You'll see from the picture that they went a whole different direction with it, but it's worth a good long look. vogue pattern V8074 (http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/voguepatterns/shop.cgi?s.item.V8074=x&TI=20003&page=1)
Andrea
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User: AndreaSews
Member since: 02-18-2005 Total posts: 1007
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From: Selene
Date: 05-30-2005, 03:15 PM (17 of 21)
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Hi Andrea! Sorry for not having got back to you earlier! I've had problems with my pc and have not been able to get into SWN. Thanks a lot, you've been very helpful!
Selene
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User: Selene
Member since: 03-03-2004 Total posts: 71
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From: DragonLady
Date: 05-31-2005, 07:00 PM (18 of 21)
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I found this site and thought of this thread. I don't know if it will be helpful at all, but I figured I'd post it anyway. > > http://www.koshka-the-cat.com/<< It's a costumer's page, and she has a lot of patterns for various things including a corset. "No more twist! No more twist!"
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User: DragonLady
Member since: 11-10-2004 Total posts: 152 
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From: Selene
Date: 06-13-2005, 10:17 AM (19 of 21)
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Beautiful site!
Selene
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User: Selene
Member since: 03-03-2004 Total posts: 71
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From: Zabelle
Date: 07-01-2005, 10:08 AM (20 of 21)
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La Couturiere Parisiene has a historical pattern of a corselet skirt: http://www.marquise.de/en/1900/pics/1900/1908_20.shtml finished picture http://www.marquise.de/en/1900/schnitte/s1908_12.gif picture of pattern pieces. Hope this helps! Such a great project! English sewing journal: Kitty Couture
In French: Journal d'une cousette |
User: Zabelle
Member since: 02-25-2004 Total posts: 98 
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From: warwomandesigns
Date: 09-01-2005, 09:15 PM (21 of 21)
I made a gal this outfit for a Fantasy Faire we had here in Texas, but we did it in 3 pieces. Blouse was all turquoise lace & we extremed the bells on the sleeve. Did a slight gore black penne velvet skirt and made here a Brocade Turquoise & black cincher, heavy interfaced & black cotton duck lined (it needs to be sturdy) waist belt, v'd the front up under her bust & also v'd it down just past her belly button, used grommets I painted the gold grommets w/rustoleum paint to match her cincer(modified belt) laced her up & she was ready to go. Oh she bought a Turquoise Satin Bra at Wal Mart. It was too much fun  Stichin in Time Warwoman |
User: warwomandesigns
Member since: 09-01-2005 Total posts: 5 |
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