Sew What’s Up Presents
The Sew What’s New Archive
This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and
quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was
retired in August 2007. It is being provided by
“Sew What’s Up,”
which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: joni lowe
Date: 05-06-2005, 06:12 PM (1 of 10)
Hi all, I have been making myself a blouse, classic style, set in sleeves, standard collar with band. My hubby helped me take my measurements, and according to the bust measurement, chose the approriate size from the multi-sized pattern. However, now that the blouse is complete, the shoulders feel tight across the back, but there is enough room under the sleeves for two more of me. The side seam extends about 3 inches on each side from my actual body, the front feels too big, but the back feels too small. Any ideas? I am planning to rip the seams apart and play with it a bit, but would greatly appreciate any suggestions. As you can tell, I'm new to this. 
|
User: joni lowe
Member since: 03-29-2005 Total posts: 75 |
From: AndreaSews
Date: 05-06-2005, 06:35 PM (2 of 10)
Hi Joni. I am sorry this is giving you a hard time. I don't know that I can think of how to help with this project, aside from letting out the seam allowance in the back armholes/shoulders a bit to make room in back, and tinkering with the fit of the blouse from there. I'm hoping someone else will have more to offer. It looks like you've gained some really useful hindsight, though (20/20  ) about pinning the pattern pieces together before cutting the fabric, and trying it on ("pin fitting") so you can tinker with the fit before you get started. In inexperience, I've made a lot of mistakes, and I continue to do so, even as I keep on learning. It's frustrating, but it's how we get good at things! Plus, if you're new to this, then you show no lack of ambition, taking on a blouse. Keep it up, Joni.
Andrea
|
User: AndreaSews
Member since: 02-18-2005 Total posts: 1007 
|
From: paroper
Date: 05-06-2005, 07:35 PM (3 of 10)
|
It sounds like you need extra fullness in the between the shoulder blades. When we were in college, during flat pattern class, we had to wear something terribly skimpy (full slip as I remember) and the teacher took pictures of us from all angles...none of the pictures were very pretty, but it gave us a chance to actually see our flaws, sway back, posture, dowagers hump, square shoulders, sloped shoulders, etc. Chances are that you may have rounded shoulders. At any rate, the area across the shoulders and between the shoulder blades is very important and you need more ease in those areas than you might think because you need to be able to stretch your arms forward. You would probably benefit IF you could just pick up a bit more fabric, so you can recut the back, collar and facings and or neckband. Then you could even split the back of this one and measure exactly what you need to make it work (be sure that you do some reaching when you do your new measurment). You can just take a scrap of fabric and pin or sew it to one side of the split and then have someone (if you have someone to do this) pin the other side, until it fits. If you don't, then take a guess at the change, pin, try on, take off, adjust and repeat until you seem to have the right amount. Be sure and half the amount of the split and recut the folded back and you should be set, making the same alterations to the collar and facings. When in doubt, working with the real fabric is often much easier than working with a flat pattern. If you do this, I would strongly suggest that you make a paper pattern out of the altered fabric when you finish so that you'll have a ready made adjustment later. This should become the best blouse you've ever had once you get all the adjustments right. As far as taking up the rest, you pretty muich need to make your changes where they feel like they need to be and make a pattern from those changes too. (You can just measure what you remove to get this right and adjust on your paper pattern.) Unfortunately, just because the pattern is made by a major company doesn't guarantee that it is perfect for you. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: joni lowe
Date: 05-06-2005, 07:50 PM (4 of 10)
|
Thanks Andrea & Pam, For both your wise suggestions, and words of encouragement. I am even as I type, printing your responses, and will once again tackle the "blouse". Good thing I only spent a dollar a yard for the fabric at WalMart  Due to the fact that I am recovering from a broken leg, I can't get around much and have all the time in the world to explore this new world of sewing. My hubby graciously brought all my machines downstairs for me, and the kitchen table is cluttered with little snips of thread. I have a Kenmore that I have had for years, just never used it much, and a singer serger that totally confuses me. My step mom recently sent me her Pfaff Embroidery machine, which again, I have no experience with, but I'm having fun experimenting. Thanks again, Joni
|
User: joni lowe
Member since: 03-29-2005 Total posts: 75 |
From: paroper
Date: 05-06-2005, 08:38 PM (5 of 10)
|
I had an old Kenmore that my husband bought new in 1973. It was grey or tan and had burling on the front. You pushed down a flat button to make it reverse and it had a ton of cams. It was one of the best machines I've ever used! I wish I still had it. Some of those old Kenmores are absolute jewels and real workhorses! Have fun and enjoy the Pfaff too!!!!
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: AndreaSews
Date: 05-06-2005, 08:56 PM (6 of 10)
|
You know, it's a lot of work, but if you do what Pam says, then you'll have a template for a blouse that'll fit you like none you'll ever buy in a store. Few people ever get to wear clothing tailored like this.
Andrea
|
User: AndreaSews
Member since: 02-18-2005 Total posts: 1007
|
From: joni lowe
Date: 05-06-2005, 09:06 PM (7 of 10)
|
Well, what I have had a chance to discover so far is. . .I located a similar blouse in the back of my closet, measured from the top center of the shoulder to the top of the side seam to see what the armhole measurement was, and there is an 1 1/2 inch difference between the blouse I bought, and the fiasco I made. I will measure other points as well, and see where that takes me. Like across the shoulders, front facing to side seam, etc. I know, it WILL be a lot of work, but what else have I got to do?!?
|
User: joni lowe
Member since: 03-29-2005 Total posts: 75 |
From: auzzi
Date: 05-07-2005, 12:09 AM (8 of 10)
|
The body is not symmetrical, so left does not match right, and front does not always match back. 1. Bust Do not pull the measuring tape too tight, measure around and over bust line - High bust is around the chest above the breasts. It is actually better in some cases eg: slender women with larger breasts. 2. Waist Find your waist by looping a cord around your torso to see where it settles. Do not pull the measuring tape too tight. [This can point out if you are short- or long-waisted.] 3. Hips The hip measurement can be any distance below the waist - usually 7-10". Measure the distance from your waist to the widest part of your hips. [watch out for tummy or thigh influences] 4. Back Waist Length Drop your chin to your chest to find the prominent bone on your neck at the back. Measure down the spine from this bone to the cord on your waistline 5. Front Shoulder to Waist Find the end of your collar-bone on your shoulder. Measure down the chest to the bust-point, then down to the waist-cord. 6. Point of Bust Locate - high, middle, low 7. Point of Bust Measure the distance between breasts - close, middle, spread [Far apart can hide true breast size] 8. Bust Front / 9. Back Width Measure the distance from armsyce to armsyce, both front and back separately. Check against the pattern. Measuring around the torso does not necessarily tell the proportions between the pieces. Front size does not always match the Back size eg size 10 front with a size 12 back. 10. High Hip Measure around the higher part of your hip; about 4" or so below your natural waist, but above the low hip. 11. Sleeve Length Bend your elbow. Measure from the top of your shoulder down to the elbow and up to the wristbone. 12. Upper Arm Measure around the arm - slender, normal or large 13. Neck size Find your neckline by looping a cord around to see where it settles. Make sure you can slip a finger or two under it. |
User: auzzi
Member since: 10-28-2003 Total posts: 56 |
From: mamadus
Date: 05-07-2005, 01:19 AM (9 of 10)
|
thanks for the tips Auzzi... i've printed this up and hung it on my bulletin board for future reference... MO life is too short, not to explore
|
User: mamadus
Member since: 12-31-2004 Total posts: 492 
|
From: blessedmommyuv3
Date: 05-07-2005, 09:39 AM (10 of 10)
|
Patterns are made for a size "b" cup; if you are larger than that, you need to use your high bust measurement when selecting a pattern. Then you would progress to do a full bust adjustment; doing this helps greatly with gaping armsyce (huge armholes). I would recommend you check your local library for a copy of "fit for real people" or a similar fitting book. It sounds to me as if you need a broad back adjustment also. This book details with step by step illustrations various adjustments and the order in which to make them. (ie: you do the broad back adjustment before the full bust adjustment, etc.) It is incredibly useful to getting a shirt that fits "you" perfectly. Another suggestion is to trace your pattern onto tissue or tracing paper or another medium before you begin altering it, that way you always have the original for further alterations or if you change sizes, etc... HTH! Jen |
User: blessedmommyuv3
Member since: 05-18-2004 Total posts: 263 
|
Visit Sew What’s Up for the latest sewing and quilting tips and discussions.
This page was originally located on Sew What’s New (www.sew-whats-new.com) at http://www.sew-whats-new.com/vb/archive/index.php/t-15922.html
Sew What’s Up is hosted by ZenSoft