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From: seamstress16
Date: 05-23-2005, 11:20 PM (1 of 12)
| I'm starting to feel like a failure. Just about every time I cut out any fabric (with pattern) it's almost always wrong! I never seem to have perfectly straight lines. I think I know what might be causing it, my scissors always seem to tilt and not be straight. I might start cutting straight and then after the first cut, it's like the pattern or the fabric shifts so that I have to tilt my scissors to the side a little so that I can continue the straight line. I am explaining this well? There's always a little more than there should be or a little less. And when I sew things where seams need to be matched up, sometimes they match perfectly, sometimes not! I am so stressed right now! ( Whaaa) Do these mishaps happen to everyone else or am I special? |
User: seamstress16
Member since: 01-29-2005 Total posts: 88 |
From: DragonLady
Date: 05-23-2005, 11:32 PM (2 of 12)
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More pins. I know some people can cut nice pieces with only a few pins or with pattern weights, but I nearly always have to anchor the fabric in more places. And put the pins in parallel with the cutting line but inside what will be the seam allowance. If there's a big empty space between pattern pieces, I put a pin or two there, too. It helps keep everything from shifting while cutting. Otoh, if you're scissors aren't straight, your cuts won't be either. Better to invest in a good pair of shears and save yourself the hours of frustration. Otherwise, you'll spend twice as much on aspirin for the headaches anyway. 
"No more twist! No more twist!"
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User: DragonLady
Member since: 11-10-2004 Total posts: 152 
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From: DragonLady
Date: 05-23-2005, 11:34 PM (3 of 12)
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Oh...and don't lift the fabric while cutting. Keep the fabric flat, and just move the shears under the edge. If you move the fabric or lift it from the table it will distort everything.
"No more twist! No more twist!"
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User: DragonLady
Member since: 11-10-2004 Total posts: 152
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From: SummersEchos
Date: 05-24-2005, 12:30 AM (4 of 12)
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Try using a rotary cutter. Of course you will need a mat. I have the smallest size rotary cutter they make for doing the curves and the regular size for the rest. It works well for me. I was taught to place my pins pointing toward the seam line not parallel, and to use as many pins as I needed. Never let your fabric hang over the table. Fold it so you can gently unfold as needed. Try out all the different ideas to see what suits you best. Summer Summer
FREE FALLIN |
User: SummersEchos
Member since: 09-29-2004 Total posts: 884 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 05-24-2005, 07:08 AM (5 of 12)
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I always had a terrible time cutting. Not only did my cut pieces come out a mess -- so did my back. Here's how I solved the problem. First off -- get a good table that is high so you aren't bent over all the time. This made a world of difference to me. It should be at least as high as you like your ironing board. Buy a little extra fabric so you aren't cramming pieces together when you lay them out. Then you will know you have enough so you can lay out only what fits on the table at a time. Don't let the extra fabric hang over to the floor. Put a chair there for it to sit on. And put weights on the end so it doesn't pull when you cut pieces out. I always use too many pins -- and weights. Oh yeah (here it comes Pam) TRY A ROTARY CUTTER. I know some people can't use them or are afraid it will slip and it will cut into the piece they are cutting but, if you can use it, your fabric will not shift like it does when you put scissors under it. I used to hate to cut and every time I would think I'm going to have to quit sewing. Now it's easy and fast. The table is a big deal. If you can't afford one of those overpriced craft tables the cardboard ones from Sew/Fit Company are good. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: paroper
Date: 05-24-2005, 10:58 AM (6 of 12)
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Dorothy, I have nothing but ADMIRATION and AMAZEMENT for you and your rotary cutter. There is no doubt that if you can learn to master the rotary cutter correctly you will have exactly matched garment pieces. However, if you are like me and just aren't that great with a rotary cutter...I use it for straight lines only WITH a ruler or T-Square (I never managed to get the training wheels off my first bike)...scissors may be the best way to go. Be sure that your scissors are right or left handed, depending on which hand you use to cut. There is a difference, the slope of the large handle will be larger on the thumb opening that goes toward the hand. They are BENT FOR A REASON: I was about 20 when I had this moment of revelation (ok...so I'm not always the sharpest Crayon in the box) but the bend allows you to run you scissors pretty flat to the table so you don't have to lift your fabric to cut. Lifting the fabric causes the cut to be inexact. Even with years of sewing you'll have some fabrics or even days when sewing becomes a challenge. Those challenges keep sewing interesting! pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: plrlegal
Date: 05-24-2005, 11:46 AM (7 of 12)
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Dorothy I'm with you. I use my rotary cutters as much as possible when cutting garment fabrics. And, Pam, it does take some practice to be able to cut around garment patterns with a rotary cutter. I've cut through a few seam lines when I first started using my rotary cutters on garment patterns/fabrics. However, I do use my shears for tight corners, notches, etc. on garment patterns. Patsy Patsy
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User: plrlegal
Member since: 05-19-2001 Total posts: 318 |
From: AndreaSews
Date: 05-24-2005, 11:46 AM (8 of 12)
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I have had this problem as well, on 2 projects in particular. What I learned is that flimsy fabrics that "shimmy" a lot are prone to uneven cutting, and also, I could stand to sharpen my scissors! For the flimsy fabrics somebody (somebody from my first post on Sew What's New!) suggested lining the cutting surface with flannel to help hold the fabric in one place. Some extra flannel yardage, or a flannel sheet, will do. What kind of fabrics have you been working with?
Andrea
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User: AndreaSews
Member since: 02-18-2005 Total posts: 1007 
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From: seamstress16
Date: 05-24-2005, 12:06 PM (9 of 12)
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WOW! Thank you all SOOOOO much for the tips. I will start practicing them right away. And in answer to the last person who posted before my reply, I use all types of fabric. Cotton, silk, polyester silky, etc. Thanks again! -Danielle |
User: seamstress16
Member since: 01-29-2005 Total posts: 88 |
From: TupJane
Date: 05-24-2005, 02:13 PM (10 of 12)
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One thing that I was taught many years ago while working for a seamstress was to cut the pattern out from the right to left (if you are right handed). Here's what I mean: once you have pinned the pattern, instead of starting on the right side of the pattern piece and cutting around the pattern counter-clockwise, instead cut to your left and around the pattern piece clock-wise. You create a much cleaner, less jagged edge. This makes matching much easier and faster. This is awkward at first, but just like learning to use a thimble for hand sewing, you'll appreciate the difference. I was also taught to pin at a 90* angle as it gives you a flat edge to cut. Lastly, your shears must be sharp. Seems to me that polyester fabrics and blends dull my shears faster than all the cottons and natural fibers that we used to use. Jane
See Jane Sew |
User: TupJane
Member since: 02-04-2005 Total posts: 55 
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From: DragonLady
Date: 05-24-2005, 02:21 PM (11 of 12)
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I was also taught to pin at a 90* angle as it gives you a flat edge to cut. I was taught to do it that way, too. And old habits die hard. But the reason I put them in parallel now is because it seems to hold a bit more fabric and to keep it from shifting better as I cut. It does keep it flatter, though...a big plus if you're cutting really light, slinky stuff that slides around a lot. Of course, I also have children, and I have them put the pins in parallel so they're less likely to ruin the shears by hitting the pins. "No more twist! No more twist!"
|
User: DragonLady
Member since: 11-10-2004 Total posts: 152
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From: paroper
Date: 05-24-2005, 02:53 PM (12 of 12)
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I was taught to pin at 90 degrees also. There is less pucker in the fabric that way. You always start from the inside of the garment and pin toward the edge.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
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