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From: joni lowe
Date: 06-02-2005, 06:21 PM (1 of 16)
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Looking for words of wisdom on technique for set in sleeves. Pam, are you out there? Joni |
User: joni lowe
Member since: 03-29-2005 Total posts: 75 |
From: paroper
Date: 06-02-2005, 07:04 PM (2 of 16)
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Yes, I'm here. I do it the old fashioned way...I pin it. However, someone...it is Dorothy maybe, does it a little different and without pins. I run a basting thread between the dots or notches on the sleeve and using the basting stitches, ease the sleeve onto the garment, beginning with a pin at the top center, each notch and at the bottom, pinning as I go...I know it is boring, but that's what I do. Techincally, if the sleeve is properly placed, it is a well designed pattern and you are sewing on the right seam line, and it is supposed to be a set-in sleeve without gathers at the top, there shouldn't be all that much to ease at the seam line. I prefer the look and the feel of sleeves that are set in after the side seams are sewn, but I like the ability to adjust the fit when the seams are sewn after the sleeves are applied to the garment and I think that they are easier to apply if the side seam is not per-sewn.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: MaryW
Date: 06-02-2005, 07:13 PM (3 of 16)
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Here are some more hints. http://www.sew-whats-new.com/culshaw/settingsleeves.shtml MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542 
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From: DorothyL
Date: 06-05-2005, 03:51 PM (4 of 16)
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It's not me that does anything without a pin. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: paroper
Date: 06-05-2005, 09:11 PM (5 of 16)
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Me neither...maybe it was MariLynn.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Ole' Girl
Date: 06-14-2005, 11:55 AM (6 of 16)
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When I took Home Ec. in high school, my teacher would not allow us to have any puckers in our sleeves. She told us to sew 2 rows of regular stitching around the sleeve cap, pin in the sleeve according to the dots or arrows, then take a straight pin and gently pull on the threads until we eased in the fullness. Believe me, it works. You just have to keep working it in, and they have no puckers. This is why I like making little girl clothes - gathered sleeves are cute on those items!! Shirley Clark |
User: Ole' Girl
Member since: 03-13-2005 Total posts: 33 |
From: Magot
Date: 06-14-2005, 03:16 PM (7 of 16)
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We did ours that way as well, Shirley - believe me , if we took a pin near the sewing achine we were Dead Meat.
love and kisses, Jan
Guts-R-Us Cells a Speciality DNA to order. |
User: Magot
Member since: 12-22-2002 Total posts: 3626 
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From: DorothyL
Date: 06-14-2005, 03:38 PM (8 of 16)
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Shirley -- I still ease things that way most of the time. It works especially well with that second foot on the Pfaff. But I pin it too. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: mommydionne
Date: 06-30-2005, 08:42 AM (9 of 16)
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I'm addicted to my pins for set in sleeves, I took a class from peggy sayer once and she uses tie (ie necktie) interfacing for jacket sleeves, works like a charm when she did it, I've never tried but you can buy the tie facing off her web site, Personally I ease stitch and then pin and occasionally rip out the puckered part and restitch and pin again  I am a perfectionist and they have to pucker free!!
Jeanette
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User: mommydionne
Member since: 01-08-2004 Total posts: 838 
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From: esrun3
Date: 06-30-2005, 09:46 AM (10 of 16)
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Yes, I'm here. I do it the old fashioned way...I pin it. However, someone...it is Dorothy maybe, does it a little different and without pins. I run a basting thread between the dots or notches on the sleeve and using the basting stitches, ease the sleeve onto the garment, beginning with a pin at the top center, each notch and at the bottom, pinning as I go...I know it is boring, but that's what I do. Techincally, if the sleeve is properly placed, it is a well designed pattern and you are sewing on the right seam line, and it is supposed to be a set-in sleeve without gathers at the top, there shouldn't be all that much to ease at the seam line. I prefer the look and the feel of sleeves that are set in after the side seams are sewn, but I like the ability to adjust the fit when the seams are sewn after the sleeves are applied to the garment and I think that they are easier to apply if the side seam is not per-sewn. I do mine the way Pam does altho most of the time I put them without the side seams sewn-easier to fit in for me that way. Try the different methods or parts of methods from several and find what works best for you Joni. Piece of cake once you figure them out. Lyn
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User: esrun3
Member since: 12-02-2004 Total posts: 2345 |
From: MaryW
Date: 06-30-2005, 10:49 AM (11 of 16)
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Depends on the garment too. Sometimes it will just look better if the side seams are sewn first.
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542
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From: paroper
Date: 06-30-2005, 10:54 AM (12 of 16)
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HINT: If you are sewing for someone where you might have to do alterations, sewing the side seams last can be a big help. Another thing, if you are doing a lined garment for someone that might require alterations, if you hang the lining before you sew the side seam and then do the seam with the lining, it can be a big help. I don't do this often, but I have a friend who sews professionally and she always does this..works very well for her. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: AndreaSews
Date: 06-30-2005, 08:02 PM (13 of 16)
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I just picked up a library book on couture techniques last night. I was reading about the feed dogs, and how they grab the lower layer and pull it in. The book suggested using this to your advantage for sleeves by placing the sleeve side DOWN when attaching the sleeve to the armscye(sp?). This should help to ease the extra fabric in. Does anyone do this? I've always done the opposite, but I can see the author's point about using a machine feature to one's advantage. I usually struggle through my easing with the big side on top, so I can judge how well it's going!
Andrea
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User: AndreaSews
Member since: 02-18-2005 Total posts: 1007 
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From: DorothyL
Date: 07-01-2005, 07:23 AM (14 of 16)
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I've always heard you should put the sleeve side down but I'd have a real mess if I did that. Now that I have a Pfaff with the extra foot on top I think that is no longer an issue. A walking foot would probably help with other machines. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: MaryW
Date: 07-01-2005, 07:55 AM (15 of 16)
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I've tried it and gotten into trouble trying. I like the sleeve on top where I can see it so that I don't end up with puckers.
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542
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From: sewingrandma
Date: 07-01-2005, 08:47 PM (16 of 16)
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I have 2 methods that I use to sew set in sleeves. One I do a line of stitching between the notches using small stitches. As I stitch I hold my finger behind the foot and let the fabric bunch up until about 3-4 inches of the sleeve has fed thru then I release it and start again. This somehow forms the cap of the sleeve and you can just line up your raw edges and all your markings and sew. My other method is I match up all my markings, pin well, then sew with the sleeve down removing the pins as I go. I haven't had any problems doing either one of these methods in years.
Brockie
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User: sewingrandma
Member since: 03-06-2003 Total posts: 432 |
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