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From: blackie
Date: 06-06-2005, 12:17 AM (1 of 20)
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I did a seam finish, but I'm not sure what it's called. I pressed the seam open, then folded under each side of the seam, then topstitched 1/8" inch on either side of the original garment seam. So all raw edges are encased on the WS of the garment, and on the RS you would see the original seam and a row of stitches 1/8" parallel on each side of the seam. Anyone know what this seam finish is called? My Google search isn't yielding fruit. see the mundane life of a housewife.
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User: blackie
Member since: 03-31-2004 Total posts: 594 |
From: SummersEchos
Date: 06-06-2005, 12:53 AM (2 of 20)
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Okay I may be wrong on this but I think it is called a finsihed seam. Summer Summer
FREE FALLIN |
User: SummersEchos
Member since: 09-29-2004 Total posts: 884 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 06-06-2005, 07:28 AM (3 of 20)
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I'm not sure what it is called but I know it is a pain in the rear to repair if the seam splits. It's a nice finished edge but not for kids clothes. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: patti2
Date: 06-06-2005, 08:53 AM (4 of 20)
| I've always called it a french seam??? |
User: patti2
Member since: 05-28-2005 Total posts: 78 |
From: westbrook
Date: 06-06-2005, 08:58 AM (5 of 20)
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If you were doing a notebook of samples, this seam finish would fall under the section: Seam Finishes This would be your first sample and it is called "Turned and Stitched" This is the most commonly used seam finished also called a 'Clean Finish'. Best used on fabrics that appear to raval easily. Frequently used on linings of jackets. Best suited for lightweight fabrics. If you are going to start a sampler, be sure to explain what you did and how you did it. Pin a sample of this on the paper you wrote about it on and slip it into a ziplock and into a notebook. |
User: westbrook
Member since: 12-13-2004 Total posts: 35 |
From: pucktricks
Date: 06-06-2005, 09:00 AM (6 of 20)
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It sounds similar to a Hong Kong seam, if I'm remembering correctly, but I know it's not that. Ticia |
User: pucktricks
Member since: 03-31-2004 Total posts: 570 
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From: westbrook
Date: 06-06-2005, 09:23 AM (7 of 20)
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Here is a link to a couple of seam finishes.. http://www.mrsews.com/lessons/seam_finishes/seam_finishes.html french seam http://www.geocities.com/monstonitrus/a_and_s/seams/seams.html |
User: westbrook
Member since: 12-13-2004 Total posts: 35 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 06-06-2005, 09:57 AM (8 of 20)
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A French seam is enclosed in itself. A Hong Kong seam is pressed open and both sides bound in seam binding, bias tape or strips of fabric, I think. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: MariLynnTX
Date: 06-06-2005, 11:01 AM (9 of 20)
I'e been sewing for my family and the public for well over 50 years, and as far as I know, this has always been called clean-finish seaming. I know that is what my grandmother called it. MariLynntx 
Life is a song...we give it harmony or dissonance.
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User: MariLynnTX
Member since: 08-13-2001 Total posts: 256 |
From: MariLynnTX
Date: 06-06-2005, 11:11 AM (10 of 20)
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If this seam is pressed open (on the wrong side) and the edges stitched, but not on the right side, it is called edge-finished seaming. As far as I know, it is called that if a tiny edge is turned under and straight stitched (so you see no raw edges) or if you zigzag each edge. I have also serged each edge on very ravelly fabric. I tried to get a 2nd cup of coffee here (its 10a.m. in central Texas) but reckon I'll have to go to the kitchen! MariLynntx
Life is a song...we give it harmony or dissonance.
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User: MariLynnTX
Member since: 08-13-2001 Total posts: 256 |
From: blackie
Date: 06-06-2005, 11:30 AM (11 of 20)
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It is not a french seam. A french seam is not stitched flat to the garment and from the RS you would only see the original seam line. In the finish I'm talking about, each side of the SA are folded under and stitched flush to the fabric, so from the RS of the garment it looks like topstitching on both sides. westbrook, thanks for the links, altho' the seam finish I'm referring to is not there... To go by the names in that second link, what I'm talking about sort of seems like a combination of a reinforced seam and flat-felled seam! And also, can someone explain the difference between a bound seam finish and a Hong Kong seam finish? I've never understood it. see the mundane life of a housewife.
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User: blackie
Member since: 03-31-2004 Total posts: 594 |
From: MaryW
Date: 06-06-2005, 12:48 PM (12 of 20)
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Blackie, I can't find any names for your first query on seam finish either. A Hong Kong finish is bias strips enclosed around raw edge of each edge. A bound seam is when both raw edges of a seam are enclosed with a strip of organza. MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542 
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From: MariLynnTX
Date: 06-06-2005, 12:59 PM (13 of 20)
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Blackie, that is a twice-stitched seam finish. In a hongkong seam, those raw edges would be bound with bias strips with no more stitching, just pressed open. In a French seam there is a seam sewn with wrong sides together, then turned, pressed, and sew with right sides together. In a clean-finished seam, right sides are sewn together, pressed open, and either edge-stitched (about an eighth of an inch turned under on each edge and straight-stitched), or zigzagged on each edge,or is serged on each edge; there is no further stitching. A plain seam is sewed with right sides together, then pinked and pressed open. MariLynntx
Life is a song...we give it harmony or dissonance.
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User: MariLynnTX
Member since: 08-13-2001 Total posts: 256 |
From: blackie
Date: 06-06-2005, 02:14 PM (14 of 20)
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Blackie, I can't find any names for your first query on seam finish either. A Hong Kong finish is bias strips enclosed around raw edge of each edge. A bound seam is when both raw edges of a seam are enclosed with a strip of organza. So a bound seam has BOTH raw edges enclosed in binding, and a Hong Kong the two edges are enclosed separately? see the mundane life of a housewife.
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User: blackie
Member since: 03-31-2004 Total posts: 594 |
From: esrun3
Date: 06-06-2005, 02:34 PM (15 of 20)
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I thought it sounded like a flat fell (?) seam?
Lyn
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User: esrun3
Member since: 12-02-2004 Total posts: 2345 |
From: Pudge99
Date: 06-06-2005, 03:03 PM (16 of 20)
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Blackie, I would just call it a reinforced seam for fabrics that fray. Gina
Pictures of my successes and failures Pfaff 2040 Janome Mylock 134D Singer Futura CE-100 w/ Autopunch Husqvarna Viking 3D Sketch |
User: Pudge99
Member since: 10-30-2001 Total posts: 1375 |
From: MariLynnTX
Date: 06-06-2005, 03:34 PM (17 of 20)
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Yes, a bound seam has the first seam trimmed to 1/4 or 3/8 inches and then the seam is bound by a sheer bias, such as organza or the sheer ready-made seam binding that you can buy by the yard or on a card. A flat-felled seam is a plain seam stitched with right sides together then pressed open. Then one side, usually the one toward the back of the skirt or pants or jacket is trimmed to 1/4" and the other side of the seam is folded over it with the outer edge folded under, and it is topstitched on that edge through all layers. If this is not clear, tell me and I will try to clarify more. MariLynntx Life is a song...we give it harmony or dissonance.
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User: MariLynnTX
Member since: 08-13-2001 Total posts: 256 |
From: AndreaSews
Date: 06-06-2005, 06:36 PM (18 of 20)
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Blackie, I have a Vogue pattern that calls for this same technique. I'm going with Clean Finish, although the pattern instructions didn't give it a name. It's certainly different than the hong-kong or french seam techniques. The two extra rows of stitching that neaten the seam allowances become part of the styling, don't they? How did your garment turn out? Mine went well, but it was hard to do. It was a simple tank top, and this was done for side and center seams, with a sort of slit in the front and back center seams. It really looks nice when finished. My problem, as usual, was fabric choice. It was a gauze with an unexpected and undesired stretch, which made everything a little tricky. It got tons of compliments though.
Andrea
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User: AndreaSews
Member since: 02-18-2005 Total posts: 1007 
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From: blackie
Date: 06-06-2005, 07:34 PM (19 of 20)
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Andrea - the garment turned out great. I will post pictures when I can get my kids out of my hair! I came up with the technique on my own because I didn't want to do french seams (my usual favorite seam finish). I used this clean finish technique for all the side seams, french seams for the shoulder seams and sleeve sides, and zig-zagged/bound finish for the set-in sleeves (thanks Pam for your suggestion of long ago!). The clean finish worked well for long side seams on this dress because it helped add weight to the seam, helped the fabric lie flat, and the topstitched side looks great. see the mundane life of a housewife.
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User: blackie
Member since: 03-31-2004 Total posts: 594 |
From: AndreaSews
Date: 06-06-2005, 09:31 PM (20 of 20)
Nice going 
Andrea
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User: AndreaSews
Member since: 02-18-2005 Total posts: 1007
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