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From: lars
Date: 07-12-2005, 07:07 PM (1 of 12)
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My name is Lars and I am relatively new to sewing. And I'm a guy so that instantly makes me clueless. This is my first project using a pattern. It will be a large robe for halloween. Here is my issue: In the pattern there are two significant places where I've come across a major sewing problem for me. 1: On the arms of the robe, the sleeve needs to be hemmed up. Now that would be easy if it was straight, but its not, it is curved. I don't know how to hem a curve. If the material was stretchy, I suppose I could ease stitch a bit and nip and tuck, but the material is a polyester and has no give whatsoever. I know it can be done, because wedding dresses have the same issue with the neck line many times. Satin like material needs to be hemmed at a curve for the bust line. I don't know many terms, so I apologize if this is confusing. 2: The same curve exists at the bottom back of the robe (the part that drags on the ground as I walk.) Now this curve is larger, but its still causing me problems. When I try to use my machine to hem it up, this is what I do: I fold the material over about 3/4ths of an inch or so and begin to sew slowly easing around as much as I can to keep it straight but after a few inches, it can no longer be folded and the curve gives me a headache. And the parts that do get sewed look all wrinkley. The only solutions I can think of is to use a hem fold-over that's real narrow like 1/4 inch or less to minimize this, or cut little v's in the fabric at the curves. However, if I do this, the material frays... A little info on my machine: I found it in the trash. It's very old. Its a kenmore. It's green. And I know it makes zig zaggy stiches-- /\/\/\/\/\, and straight ones -----------. That's pretty much all it does. Oh, and it also makes stiches that look like ___/\______/\______. That's all it does. Straights, zigzags, and those. It is in perfect working order now that I've taken it all apart and cleaned it. It's also very heavy. If you ladies and/or gentlemen could help, I'd really appreciate it. you can e-mail me at <email address removed for privacy> as I may not check back here for a day or so. Thanks again. |
User: lars
Member since: 07-12-2005 Total posts: 1 |
From: sable
Date: 07-12-2005, 07:51 PM (2 of 12)
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Ok, the reason for your problem is 2-fold. 1. the fabric you are sewing is not easy to ease (polyester satin is notorious for this). 2. the edge of the hem is wider than the body of the garment. Best way I have found to deal with this is to sew 1/4" from the cut edge with a straight stitch with tension loosened a little to allow you to gather the edge slightly. To gather, pull the thread on one side which will pull the material in slightly. You may want to fasten the thread at the other end so you don't pull the whole lot out by accident. You only want to gather enough to get the hem's cut edge the same width as the main garment. If you spread the gathering evenly you shouldn't get too much of the wrinkly effect. Hope this is of some help, lmk if you need more |
User: sable
Member since: 01-10-2005 Total posts: 76 
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From: MotherInLaw
Date: 07-12-2005, 08:01 PM (3 of 12)
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Try running a long basting stitch along the hems where it has to be eased in and then pull a little on this basting stitch as you go causing the fabric to ease around the curve as you pin the hem up in place. This is how you do sleeves that has to be eased and it works the excess fabric into place. Reduce the tension on your top thread if you can figure out how to do that, this makes the stitch looser on the basting so it's easier to pull up the gathers also make the stitches as long as you can for the basting. Then you can pin the hem in place as you go around gathering the excess fabric by pulling the thread on the basting. Please post here if you can understand this and succeed. If you can't do it this way someone else may be able to explain it better than me. Hope you can understand what I'm trying to say and good luck. By the way, that last stitch you have on your machine is called a blind hem stitch. I'm regressing back into my youth, I just have to figure out how I'm going to convience my body to come along with me.
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User: MotherInLaw
Member since: 06-25-2005 Total posts: 1118 
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From: paroper
Date: 07-12-2005, 09:30 PM (4 of 12)
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Ok so if a gal is a seamstress is a guy a seamster? Just wondering.... That other mysterious stitch is called a blind stitch and someday when you get this done and you get ready to hem pants? Well, that stitch could become your very best friend. As for the machine, don't sell it short. Some of those old Kenmore machines were honeys...even at the low end. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: paroper
Date: 07-12-2005, 09:31 PM (5 of 12)
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Actually, the only guys that I knew that sewed were called tailors...that kind of kicks it up a notch doesn't it?
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: MotherInLaw
Date: 07-12-2005, 10:12 PM (6 of 12)
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Pam I was going to tell you that a guy who sews is called a Tailor which is a very nice business. Or he could be come another Oscar de.
I'm regressing back into my youth, I just have to figure out how I'm going to convience my body to come along with me.
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User: MotherInLaw
Member since: 06-25-2005 Total posts: 1118
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From: DorothyL
Date: 07-13-2005, 08:02 AM (7 of 12)
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We are all sewers or sewests. Gender doesn't matter. Tailoring is a style of sewing and a woman can do it as well as a man. Meanwhile a man who makes dresses, curtains or doll clothes is not a tailor. You can "shrink" the fabric a little by running a row of very tight stitches -- short stitch length and put your finger behind the foot and hold the fabric tight to the foot. When you get a big wad there let it go and start pushing again. Then hit it hard with steam. If it is too tight when you go to hem just pull it and break the thread where you have to. I know no one wants to hear this but -- probably the best technique is to hem by hand and ease the excess in. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: MotherInLaw
Date: 07-13-2005, 11:34 AM (8 of 12)
Dorothy, thanks for pointing that info out to us. My son and I was discussing this not too long ago because my Grandson wants a sewing machine like I bought the Granddaughters for their birthdays and he was telling his son a man who sews is called a tailor. So that's why I said a guy who sews is usualy called a tailor but I didn't realize there was a difference. No matter what or who sewing is fun and you can sure make some nice things weather home dec, garment, or craft.  
I'm regressing back into my youth, I just have to figure out how I'm going to convience my body to come along with me.
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User: MotherInLaw
Member since: 06-25-2005 Total posts: 1118
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From: AndreaSews
Date: 07-18-2005, 09:41 PM (9 of 12)
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Lars, sewers these days will pay a pretty penny for a new mostly-plastic machine with 500 stitches, when the only three they use more than once are straight, zigzag, and hem. The rest is bells & whistles. And you got yours for free! Nice going. Plus, you've already learned to take it apart and clean it for yourself. Plenty an inexperienced sewer has chucked a perfectly good machine b/c it just didn't work right, when they merely needed to give it a nice cleaning. It sounds like you're off to a good start.
Andrea
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User: AndreaSews
Member since: 02-18-2005 Total posts: 1007 
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From: bunzino
Date: 07-19-2005, 10:37 PM (10 of 12)
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Lars, Sounds like you picked up my old Kenmore which is still going strong. It's a fantastic machine, altho it doesn't have all the modern bells and whisstles. Well worth investing money if it needs some rehab. Also, try make the hem much smaller -- lik 3/8" nancy |
User: bunzino
Member since: 08-16-2002 Total posts: 119 |
From: fronno
Date: 07-20-2005, 07:32 AM (11 of 12)
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Hello Lars, Here a small message from an other man here in the list. I am professional and I would like to warn you for claims of customers, although I think that that will not happen so quick within the bikini area (although when you are going to sew and produce for someone else instead of for your own sellingbranche (you have to think big  it could lhappen)) So here is a piece of text which I have copied and which is free for use. quote I cannot emphasise enough the potential financial risks to people of running any kind of non-clerical business from home and not having the proper insurance in place ESPECIALLY if customers/suppliers visit your home. The "no win no fee" legal services now available make it very easy for anyone with a minor injury (let alone a major injury) to sue you for vast sums of money. We do not believe that we need Product Indemnity insurance because we believe we have excluded it in our contract. Anyone offering any kind of professional service, including custom sewing, does have a potential liability in this area. (You can see a copy of this on our website at http://www.lamdesign.co.uk/information/termsconditions.htm - feel free to use the text of the contracts but note that this is at your own risk, we are not legal advisors.) unquote You can and may contact here at Sew or at <email address removed for privacy> for any questions you have. Feel free to do it. With kind regards,
François |
User: fronno
Member since: 04-26-2004 Total posts: 79 
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From: paroper
Date: 07-20-2005, 08:00 AM (12 of 12)
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In the past when I have had customers in the house, male or female I have made arrangements to have one or more of my own family members present in the home. This is a safety issue for me as well as them. Most of the time if younger people come to my home for fittings they bring someone with them (a parent or another teen). If they are of the same sex I usually do not enter a fitting/measuring area without taking both of them. I try to make everything as light as possible. This helps all of us relax. Anytime that I am not doing something that requires privacy I open doors to the house so that I am not alone with a customer any longer than I have to be. When doing large group fittings (like for weddings) I like to have three or four in the room for measurments. My fitting room was a hall. It was very small with only one piece of furniture, a chair. I kept my dress forms there which I used when the customer came, putting their clothes on the dress form for presentation. I had 3 mirrors on the walls so that the customer could see their dress from (almost) all angles. When I had fittings, I locked all doors entering the hall and made sure that all windows were covered (for privacy). The hall was very small. I always felt a little safer and I think the customers felt more secure in this set-up unlike taking the client into a bedroom or a room with a sofa. Anything can happen anytime and anywhere. You just have to be as careful as possible. Being a man would make it much more difficult.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
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