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The Sew What’s New Archive
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From: June Harlow
Date: 07-14-2005, 04:23 PM (1 of 10)
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Hi ! I'm having problems doing rolled edges on some finer fabrics. You can take a look here (http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/juneharlow/images/scan002%2C%20july%2014%2C%202005%20serged%20edge.j pg) As you can see, little bits of the fabric poke through the threads that are trying to wrap the fabric edge. I've got two sergers here, and it does the same thing on both machines, I've also tried changing the cutting blades, and varying the stitch length, nothing really seems to solve the problem. On some stiffer fabrics it seems to roll up nicely. Does anyone have any suggestions ?
June ~
"If only I could find that missing pattern piece!" June sews on a Pfaff 1209 and a Babylock 5180 serger |
User: June Harlow
Member since: 05-30-2005 Total posts: 100 
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From: MaryW
Date: 07-15-2005, 09:41 AM (2 of 10)
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I have the same problem so I would love to know the answer as well. I think, in my case it is the serger I am using. Not really a good one for anything other than serging raw edges.
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542 
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From: fronno
Date: 07-15-2005, 10:04 PM (3 of 10)
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For so far as I can see is it a problem which can be caused by two things: 1. there are tiny particles of thread clusterd under, around, etc. your under blade. (knife) You can take the underknife off, clean it and the place where it is fixed to your machine and put the blade back in its place. When that is not working, then the possibillity of no. 2 is very highly the fact. 2. There is a rough edge at (on?) one of your blades. Because it is not the fabric what is sticking through, it is a not correct cutted part of the fabric. That is what see by June. I hope you can do something with this. Otherwise I will see if I can help you more. With kind regards,
François |
User: fronno
Member since: 04-26-2004 Total posts: 79 
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From: vitrine
Date: 07-16-2005, 08:37 PM (4 of 10)
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I'm sure this will cure your problem! Use wooly nylon in the lower looper! Phyllis |
User: vitrine
Member since: 07-16-2005 Total posts: 2 |
From: Aussie sewer
Date: 07-17-2005, 05:00 AM (5 of 10)
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Hi June I'm the proud owner of a new Pfaff serger and I did my one and only lesson on the weekend. I was pretty comfortable with it by then which was good. I said Iwould like to make a friend some chiffon scarves and would like to know about how to do rolled hems on fine fabrics as well as other things she was showing me. Interestingly enough, she suggested that I try how it went but if I got any sticky out bits like you mention she recommended a product (I don't know what its called - she may have called it sticky but since I'm in Australia this may not help you much anyway) which is very fine and feels a little plasticy - it's as light as gladwrap but not as sticky and you just put that on top and do the rolled hem. When you're finished you just gently pull it away from the hem and you don't see it at all. It was fantastic and made a lot of difference. It's also mentioned in one of the serger books I've just received from the US. I did buy a small bag full - they obviously buy it in bulk and then package it in little bags which wasn't cheap but you can use it all even the little bits as it doesn't need to be in one strip. If I find out the name I'll let you know. Maree |
User: Aussie sewer
Member since: 06-02-2005 Total posts: 29 |
From: fronno
Date: 07-17-2005, 07:16 AM (6 of 10)
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Hello Aussiesewer What you mean is stitch and tear.  I saw on the picture from June a fabric what was not (imo) a fine fabric, with fine fabric I am thinking about organza, silk, tule, etc. Indeed for e.g. scarfs, but when it is occuring in that case it could also be the fact that your upperthread is not thight enough. I would like to suggest than that you have to experiment with the tensions and or use the stitch and tear. With kind regards,
François |
User: fronno
Member since: 04-26-2004 Total posts: 79
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From: June Harlow
Date: 07-17-2005, 08:15 AM (7 of 10)
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Thanks everyone for your help & suggestions. Fronno: Many thanks, I will do as you suggest and check the blades again. I think there may be tiny pieces that aren't being cut right. When I get time I was thinking I'd try carefully cutting the fabric with scissors and feeding it through the machine so the blades don't cut it. Phyllis: Thanks for the wooly nylon tip, I'll try that also. Maree: That was a good tip with the stitch & tear tape, thank you. June ~
"If only I could find that missing pattern piece!" June sews on a Pfaff 1209 and a Babylock 5180 serger |
User: June Harlow
Member since: 05-30-2005 Total posts: 100
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From: June Harlow
Date: 07-17-2005, 08:37 PM (8 of 10)
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Okay, here's the latest. I've been working on this 2 thread rolled edge problem all afternoon. Here's what I found. My machine blades are cutting the fabric clean and sharp, however unless the lower looper tension is quite loose, some parts of the fabric squeeze out, making it look like there's loose threads from the fabric poking through (see my pic link in first post). Speed of serging makes no difference, however the quality of the rolled edge seems to get worse as you work at an angle to the grain. Tension is very important, the needle thread needs to be quite tight, and the lower looper loose (just tight enough to cause the fabric to roll, but not so tight as to cause parts to squeeze out). Slippery, synthetic type fabrics seem to cause more troubles because they don't want to create a rolled edge properly. Stiff cotton type fabrics seem to roll nicely. Also stitch length is tricky. Spacing the lower looper threads too close together causes trouble, as does spacing them too far apart. After all this experimenting my best solution is to practice a lot on fabric scraps from the project you're planning to work on. I hope this helps other folks ! June ~
"If only I could find that missing pattern piece!" June sews on a Pfaff 1209 and a Babylock 5180 serger |
User: June Harlow
Member since: 05-30-2005 Total posts: 100
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From: June Harlow
Date: 08-03-2005, 10:26 PM (9 of 10)
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I've been thinking about this since my last post. It seems to me that when I had my old sergers, (a Toyota 6600 & a White SL34....these were the type of 'generic' sergers that sell in department stores for $199) my rolled hems looked nicer, and adjustments to get them looking nicer seemed to be less trouble. On these sergers you had to physically change the needleplate and put on a different presser foot for the rolled hem. On my Babylock 5180 you adjust a couple of knobs for the rolled hem, but the foot or plate never gets changed. Does anyone have any knowledge as to whether it's better to have a machine with a changeable needleplate for rolled hem edges ? June ~
"If only I could find that missing pattern piece!" June sews on a Pfaff 1209 and a Babylock 5180 serger |
User: June Harlow
Member since: 05-30-2005 Total posts: 100
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From: opalstudio
Date: 11-04-2005, 02:23 PM (10 of 10)
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in my experience several things, either alone or in combination, have caused this problem: 1. forgot to adjust the stitch finger, on my Janome machine this is simply pulling back a little pink "knob", but on some it means changing the needle plate 2. forgot to tighten the lower looper tension, or not tightened enough to roll the fabric properly 3. knife position is too close to the needle plate, thereby not leaving enough fabric in the seam allowance to roll properly and causing the stubbly little yarns to pop out through the stitches 4. stitch length too long 5. using plain thread instead of wooly nylon in the upper looper, in my case usually caused by laziness or reluctance to tackle the oft-times unruly wooly mammoth. it's true that there are several tricks with which to tame the beast, but sometimes the sewing mojo is just off and the best thing to do is to pack it up and go out for dinner...complete with cocktails. Hope this helps... Jo-Anne
sewing is good for you! Studio Opal, Centre for the Sewing Arts |
User: opalstudio
Member since: 11-03-2005 Total posts: 17 
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