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From: Orc40k
Date: 07-19-2005, 01:55 PM (1 of 5)
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I'm making a pair of detachable sleeves for a medieval doublet and I need to line the sleeves. They have a slight to moderate ease above the elbow and are tight to the wrist. To accomodate putting the sleeve on, they are split from the wrist to the elbow on the overarm piece. (These are 2-piece sleeves - underarm and overarm) Basically, there is a triangle cut out of the overarm portion of the sleeve, the base of which equals the difference between the original sleeve circumferance at the wrist and the desired circumferance. (Wrist measure +1") There will be eyelets along the edges of the split so the sleeves can be laced closed. Here's the question... How do I cut and assemble the lining for these sleeves? I just can't seem to get my brain around needing the edge of the slit to be finished and reinforced for eyelets and needing a neat finis for the lining. Any suggestions? Barbara |
User: Orc40k
Member since: 06-29-2005 Total posts: 47 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 07-19-2005, 03:17 PM (2 of 5)
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I'd underline it, I think. Sew the lining to the fabric before I started putting it together. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: paroper
Date: 07-19-2005, 05:58 PM (3 of 5)
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Do they detach at the shoulder or at the elbow? If they detach at the elbow, I would sew the gauntlet portion by sewing around the gauntlet and then turning. I would serge it together at the top and attach at the elbow. If it detaches at the shoulder, I would sew the underarm seams of the lining and the underarm seams of the sleeve together. I would then sew around the bottom and the slit, triming, slashing and turning as always. This would make a clean look to the bottom of the sleeve. Then I would turn the sleeve so that the lining was in the sleeve as it should be. At that point, I would either serge the top of the sleeve, or zig zag or whatever and put my snaps, velcro, whatever on top of the sleeve where it wouldn't show OR I would sew between the lining and the sleeve. The easy way to do would be to ease the lined sleeve to the garment, then run a row of regular stitching to stabilize the shape and serge the edges of the lined garment, attach your velco pins or whatever to the top edge of the sleeve and the sleeve opening and you will be done with that. The eyelets would go through the lining and the sleeve. Then there is the HARD way... You would turn the toptop of the sleeve over and pin the wrongsides together, working through a space that will end up at the bottom of the sleeve. You match notches, top of the sleeve, etc, from the inside of the sleeve, all the time leaving a portion of the bottom of the sleeve open. The sleeve will be twisted as you do this because the right side of the lining matches the left side of the sleeve as you work. When you get to the point that you can't sew and work any more, you sew the top of the sleeve and pull out any pins that are there, leaving an opening (still) at the bottom (underarm) of the sleeve. You will need to snip and trim the sleeve as always. When you finish, you hand sew the bottom of the sleeve closed so that the entire sleeve is finished. Then you put the attachments on the sleeve. The main problem I see with this is that you may need to do a little easing at the top of the sleeve to make sure that it will fit smoothly. To get this right, you may want to run a couple rows of basting stitches, fit the sleeve to the garment and then run a sewn line of stitches to hold your sleeve shape before you start. You should then just run the basting stitches in the lining and match it to the garment sleeve when you sew them together. I'm sorry if these directions are unclear, but if you mess with it a little bit, you'll see what I mean I think. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Orc40k
Date: 07-20-2005, 12:39 PM (4 of 5)
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What a thorough reply! I played around with some scrap fabric last night and I think I was doing it your hard way. I'm going to use the first method you suggested, but sew the shoulder end of the sleeve rather than the hem. I'll cut the lining to the finished sleeve length and hand finish the hem. I'm planning on including a piece of medium weight interfacing where the slit is to reinforce it and to preprare for the eyelets that will go in for lacing the forearm shut. The sleeves are close-fitting so they don't have a lot of ease where they join the doublet. I'm planning on attaching them with loops and buttons. (My son thinks tying through eyelets is to frilly-looking.) Would you put the buttons on the doublet and the loops on the sleeve cap? Also, the sleeves are upholstery velvet. Do you think they will need any structure in the cap? As I said, they are not really eased much at all. Thanks again! Barbara |
User: Orc40k
Member since: 06-29-2005 Total posts: 47 |
From: paroper
Date: 07-20-2005, 01:06 PM (5 of 5)
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I think your son is wrong. I'd do buttonhole style eyelets out of the same color thread and use cording if it were up to me. With the cording for the laces it would look much more authentic...unless he wants sticks or rocks for buttons. The lacing would be much more secure too. If used buttons I don't know. I'm tempted to tell you that I would put the buttons on the bottom side of the shoulder and try putting the loops on the sleeves...if anything showed, you'd still have the tread loops showing which is a more authentic look. I think it would be more comfortable if you put the buttons on the sleeve though. The reason that I would be tempted to put the buttons on the shoulder is because I think that if they are on the sleeve where they didn't show (underneath) they might tend to ride above the garment. Either way I don't know how buttons would feel under the arm. I've made the loops out of cord, elastic, lots of things, but it is a whole lot easier if you go to a bridal fabirc store and purchase the loops already made by the yard..it'll sure save you a lot of headaches! With the weight of the uphostery fabric, I doubt that you'll need to do much to the cap of the sleeve. The bulk of the fabric will probably hide a lot so long as they seem to fit well in the sleeve head. Because of the bulk they may actually seem larger than the head, I don't know. If you needed to, you might even be able to put a couple of small darts there if you needed them...the texture of the velvet might hide those, depending upon the color. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
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