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From: June Harlow
Date: 08-04-2005, 12:38 PM (1 of 13)
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I just bought some 'faux leather" embossed print fabric. The end of the bolt listed it as pvc 47%, rayon 27% and other. It sort of looks like 'pleather', pvc with a sort of fabric backing. My question is what's the best machine needle to use on it ? I was thinking a standard 90/14, but I'd always read about using a wedge needle for leather and I wondered if that'd be better. I've never really seen one of those needles in the flesh, and I wonder if they exist outside of text books ! LOL Thanks ! June ~
"If only I could find that missing pattern piece!" June sews on a Pfaff 1209 and a Babylock 5180 serger |
User: June Harlow
Member since: 05-30-2005 Total posts: 100 
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From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 08-05-2005, 12:16 PM (2 of 13)
Why don't you test it on a small scrap..??? The leather needle is required for the real thing because the point has to be sharp enough to pierce a hole in the tough leather.. The fake stuff may not be tough like that.. Be careful and don't do ripping out though, until you test to see if it leaves permanent holes in the fabric.. 
Sew With Love
Libby |
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002 Total posts: 2022 
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From: DorothyL
Date: 08-06-2005, 08:16 AM (3 of 13)
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Here is what Sandra Betzina says: First she says DO pre shrink or you will get skipped stitches. Machine wash, warm on short cycle and machine dry in synthetic cycle. With the finished garment you only leave it in the dryer a few minutes then pull the seams taut to remove puckers. Use fusible interfacing and polyester thread. NEEDLE -- 75/11 HS -- that's a stretch needle I think. She recommends a Teflon presser foot. You can press with dry iron on synthetic setting. She suggests flat fell seams and 1/4 inch topstitching. She also suggests using paper clips instead of pins and a lining that is not polyester. Information from More Fabric Savvy Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: June Harlow
Date: 08-06-2005, 09:21 AM (4 of 13)
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Libby: Thanks ! Yes, I'll try sewing on a scrap and see how that goes. Dorothy: Thank you also, I'll also do the pre-washing and I'll be careful with the ironing. I'm thinking perhaps I'll sew up a small "dummy" test garment piece, then run it through the wash and try ironing it just to be sure. About a year ago, I had a bad experience with a pleather-type item, the embossed part came off when tape was applied to it (I use 1/4" wide tape to mark my zipper stitching) Later, it dawned on me that what I'd been using was some sort of car upholstery type of material...I guess I got what I deserved for buying bargain fabrics. Even so, the skirt turned out well, but was very squeaky when I walked, and I kept wanting to take my showers in a car wash 
June ~
"If only I could find that missing pattern piece!" June sews on a Pfaff 1209 and a Babylock 5180 serger |
User: June Harlow
Member since: 05-30-2005 Total posts: 100
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From: fronno
Date: 08-08-2005, 07:15 PM (5 of 13)
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Next to this: use a stitch length which is very much larger than normal, otherwise you will rip it apart, second is there any spandex in it, do not tumble dry it, third is the material knitted (the rear I mean) than do not a leather needle but use a ballpoint needle and as last (has been mentioned) do use a teflon foot, because when not: you will damage the material and the fabric will not pass under your feet.
With kind regards,
François |
User: fronno
Member since: 04-26-2004 Total posts: 79 
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From: June Harlow
Date: 08-12-2005, 08:16 AM (6 of 13)
Thanks Francois, I'll keep that in mind. Now if I could only get started on the project ! All of a sudden I'm so busy I can't get time for my sewing....I want to scream ! I need to get locked away in a bank vault like Burgess Meredith in that Twilight Zone episode "Time Enough at Last!" LOL 
June ~
"If only I could find that missing pattern piece!" June sews on a Pfaff 1209 and a Babylock 5180 serger |
User: June Harlow
Member since: 05-30-2005 Total posts: 100
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From: opalstudio
Date: 11-04-2005, 02:32 PM (7 of 13)
When working with "sticky" fabrics I have often used a small amount of lubricant on the surface of the fabric. This helps the material slide under the foot. It can be a bit messy, but all I do is put a bit of oil in a dish, dip my finger in, and run it along the seam area as it approaches the foot. never has caused any damage to the machine...in fact my machine seems to like it  Just make sure you clean up the excess oil after to prevent oil stains to other fabrics. this is the same caution necessary after cleaning and oiling your machine anyway, so maybe a 2-birds-with-1-stone moment? And on that note...I love Simple Green for cleaning any kind of oil-based messes. I keep it in the kitchen, laundry room, garage, and studio. It is bio-degradable, smells pretty decent, and (so far) hasn't caused any damage to ANY of my fabrics. Always test first, of course. Find it in the automotive section of the canadian tire store or walmart. Jo-Anne
sewing is good for you! Studio Opal, Centre for the Sewing Arts |
User: opalstudio
Member since: 11-03-2005 Total posts: 17 
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From: paroper
Date: 11-04-2005, 03:08 PM (8 of 13)
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THere is also a foot that has a roller to feed leather. It also works well on leather. Back in the day.....when I was in high school and the leather look was in, we used paper to help feed it through the feed dog and under the presser foot. It worked just fine and was a whole lot cheaper than the teflon or the leather foot...but they are really very nice to have. For about one school year about all I wore was "leather. patent leather or snakeskin look".
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: kathleenfasanel
Date: 11-08-2005, 01:03 PM (9 of 13)
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When working with "sticky" fabrics I have often used a small amount of lubricant on the surface of the fabric. This helps the material slide under the foot. It can be a bit messy, but all I do is put a bit of oil in a dish, dip my finger in, and run it along the seam area as it approaches the foot. never has caused any damage to the machine...in fact my machine seems to like it I'd recommend silicone spray that you can buy at any hardware store. That's what is used in factories. It's not oily (it won't stain your fabrics) and it won't damage your machine or threads. Spray it directly on the needle and throat plate. One squirt will do the job nicely. Nurture people, not products
Fashion-incubator.com |
User: kathleenfasanel
Member since: 08-26-2005 Total posts: 15 |
From: dcdiva
Date: 11-14-2005, 12:48 PM (10 of 13)
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Now that I know what needle and foot to use, how do I flatten the seams. This fabric I think would melt if I used an iron. Should I use overlapping seams and top stitch to finish them. I'm making a skirt and vest for a friend. Also, should I line everything? I think I made a mistake picking this fabric, but it really looked nice and had a real leather look. It's thin and backed with a black fabric. Help! This is supposed to be a Christmas present for someone.
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User: dcdiva
Member since: 11-14-2005 Total posts: 1 |
From: paroper
Date: 11-14-2005, 01:02 PM (11 of 13)
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It's been so long since I've sewn leather. I think that most of my seams were top stitched and I flattened them when I sewed them down. However, you might try what I use for sequin fabrics. That is a heavy marble rolling pin...the heavier the better. I just "roll" down the seams. I think that will probably work in this situation too.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 11-14-2005, 02:55 PM (12 of 13)
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Oh Pam -- I gotta get one of those!! Where did you get it? I use heavy marble bookends to flatten seams sometimes and they are great but a rolling pin would be good when you can't use heat or steam. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: paroper
Date: 11-14-2005, 04:08 PM (13 of 13)
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I'm sure that you could get a really nice one (professional) from a cooking specialty store, but I use a heavy 15-20 15 dollar variety that you find around Christmas in department stores. You can get a lighter weight one but I like the heaviest I can get. It has a holder and keeps it from rolling and it is a different color (grey-green) from the one I use in the kitchen so that if someone picks it up and heads for the kitchen, I won't get them mixed up and get oil or something on my garments.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
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