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From: JackieW
Date: 08-25-2005, 01:51 PM (1 of 16)
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Hi, I'm new on the forum, and am DESPARATELY hoping you can help! I'm making a wedding gown (me and my bright ideas!) that has banding around the bottom plus bias tape. I'm stuck and really not sure which way to go. It's princess style, skirt has 7 panels. I'm working on the test dress and I"ve already cut the panels and the bands, but I don't think that's the way to go. I tried to attach a pic but not having any luck. Sorry if this isn't enough info to go on...... Thanks! |
User: JackieW
Member since: 08-25-2005 Total posts: 10 |
From: MaryW
Date: 08-25-2005, 02:51 PM (2 of 16)
Hi JackieW and welcome to Sew Whats New.  What seems to be your problem with the gown? Which pattern is it? MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542 
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From: JackieW
Date: 08-25-2005, 03:33 PM (3 of 16)
Hey Mary  It's not from a pattern, although I'm using a generic pattern to get as close as I could. The pattern I'm using doesn't have the banding around it. I did find a picture of it, the link from ebay is below. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8207824709&indexURL=2&pho You can see the banding around it, then there's bias binding. Now that I think about it more, I really goofed by cutting the panels into bands (what a PIA! BIG mistake). TG it's only the test dress  I couldn't figure out how to attach the bias banding without seams showing underneath which is why I cut the bands separate. Any ideas?Sorry this is so long. Thanks! |
User: JackieW
Member since: 08-25-2005 Total posts: 10 |
From: AndreaSews
Date: 08-25-2005, 07:27 PM (4 of 16)
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It's a pretty design. Let's see. Do I understand your dilemma right? And the design? It looks like you have the 7 vertical skirt panels, and then, once the skirt is constructed, you would sew on the decorative band around it. Is that right? I can not figure out what the bias tape is for. I can't quite make out the details in the pic either. Just looking at it, I wouldn't have guessed there were any bias tape in this gown at all. Unless you used it to make (is it called...) a Hong Kong finish on inside seams to tidy and conceal raw edges. How far off am I? Go step by step, and we'll figure it out. This gang has an enormous knowledge base.
Andrea
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User: AndreaSews
Member since: 02-18-2005 Total posts: 1007 
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From: GreenDragonLady
Date: 08-25-2005, 08:00 PM (5 of 16)
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It looks like the really narrow trim band is just stitched at the top and the rest is free of the dress. Is that right? It looks as if you could cut the dress where the decorative band goes, then stitch the decorative band in with the bias pieces in the seam allowance. You would just have to make sure the dress was long enough to allow for the seam allowances. Or did you try this already? I wasn't sure if that's what your comment was when you cut the panels into bands. I didn't know if that was before or after they were all stitched together. I hope I didn't confuse you more!!! photos.yahoo.com/greendragondesigns
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User: GreenDragonLady
Member since: 07-29-2004 Total posts: 495 
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From: plrlegal
Date: 08-26-2005, 12:02 AM (6 of 16)
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Jackie I don't think that is bias tape or any kind of binding. Those bands are created by sewing what amounts to what looks like a 2 or three inch tuck all around the bottom of the gown sewn only at the base of the dress and left free; then they've done an area of embroidery (or so it looks) and made another band by sewing another 2 or three inch tuck all around the gown and then hemming the very bottom. That is what it looks like to me anyway. But, first, you would have to sew all the panels together and finish the inside seams. Patsy Patsy
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User: plrlegal
Member since: 05-19-2001 Total posts: 318 |
From: paroper
Date: 08-26-2005, 01:16 AM (7 of 16)
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I'm not absolutely sure that is what has been done there, but it was certainly my first impression that it was self-made tucks from the skirt itself. As I look at it I'm not sure if that is true or not. The definition in the top of the "tuck" is so sharp and when they are tucked out of the skirt that isn't always true. The other thing is I'm not sure if there isn't a chiffon overlay on that dress....certainly not a loose overlay, but to me it looks like it could be a satin or similar interlining with a chiffon overlay sewn as one piece. If that is true, the trim is on the chiffon. The reason I'm wondering is because of the way the dress catches the light. If you look at the blow up of the bodice (view #4), it looks like you can almost see the chiffon in the center panel. I think the top is a beaded chiffon over satin. The bottom may be chiffon over satin with a satin trim above and below and a beaded chiffon inset to match the top. there would be several ways to do this. 1. If I were to apply bias binding on a dress like this I would cut it from the dress fabric and sew at the top then hand sew from underneath to catch the bottom of the binding. 2. You could use Patsy's method and use tucks in the skirt. 3. You could physically cut the skirt fold the binding in half and insert both seam allowance of the binding into the seam of the skirt, leaving the bottom of the binding loose. You would need to cut the skirt again to do the same to the bottom. This would also allow you to insert some sort of decrorative inset between the bindings. 4. Possibly the best method would be to cut your binding from the dress fabric, fold in half. Line the raw edges of the binding up on a placement line with the raw edges pointing toward what would be the hem. Sew the binding to the top of skirt using a small (maybe 1/4 inch) seam sewing both of your binding's raw edges to the top of the skirt. When you fold your binding down and press, it will give the definition at the top of the binding that this dress has and the binding itself will hide the raw edges. If you do this method, start attaching your binding maybe 3 inches from the raw edge and near a seam. When you get close enough that you can tell how much binding you will need. open up your bindings and sew the raw ends from the wrong side Do this over the seam. Press open, then refold your binding and continue sewing. When you finish sewing around the skirt, your binding will not be unsightly or overly thick. Depending upon the fabric of the dress, you may need to lightly tack the bias binding from underneath at a couple of the seams to keep it from rolling up. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: JackieW
Date: 08-26-2005, 09:03 AM (8 of 16)
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Hi, thanks so much for all your replies! For some reason, I couldn't get access to this website last night on my home PC so didn't get all this until this AM at work. AndreaSews, I had originally thought I would sew on the wider band around each 7 panels, but thought I might have too much bulk? Then what to do about the skinny bias binding, it does makes sense to use a Hong Kong finish..... GreenDragonLady, you got it right and I should have not cut it up. When I attached the 2 pieces (wide banding and lower part of the dress) to the 7 panels (I ended up with 3 pieces to each panel), I lost about 2 1/2" off the dress side panels and length because of the seam allowances and had to use the original paper pieces to re-align the dress panels to add width and length (complete with extra paper taped to the panel, pins (3 sizes :bg , scotch tape, you name it!) then I just got disgusted with it.  plrlegal..I didn't think of that! (and I spent HOURS studying this dress!) Tucks are a good idea, I would need to estimate how much more I would need to add to the panels to compensate for the lost width and length....hmmmm Paroper..now that I look at it again it does look like there is something overlaying the bodice. So in 1., if I sew the bias binding I would fold over a seam allowance, then fold it underneath and fold a seam allowance? (almost in half)? I"m trying to see this in my mind (it's Friday and my mind is mush). 3. is what I attempted, but didn't want to cut out new test panels to use as a final pattern. But it was the better idea at the time. Guess I'm just getting cold feet. I'm also trying to figure out the best way to attach all the beading and sequins making the satin taut enough to apply. 4. sounds like a good solution. I'll test this out over the weekend.... Thanks again everyone! I'll let you know how I make out, these are some really great ideas! |
User: JackieW
Member since: 08-25-2005 Total posts: 10 |
From: paroper
Date: 08-26-2005, 09:37 AM (9 of 16)
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Jackie, I just finished a veil with satin binding around it. As in idea 1, the true bias binding was cut from the dress fabric in wide strips. The strips were sewn together and applied as a very long single piece to the bottom of the dress. The top of the binding was sewn to the veil. The bottom was then wraped under and sewn by hand. In this case, if I were to do that, I would just fold under a seam allowance and hand sew from underneath. I don't think that I would make it 1/2 of the binding, I would just make it enough to sew. (This is not the fastest or the easiest method.) I think that if I were to do it, after much thought, I'd probably use the method 4 still using the binding of the dress. It is just so much prettier than anything that you could purchase in terms of bindings. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: plrlegal
Date: 08-26-2005, 11:50 AM (10 of 16)
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I just took another look at the pictures of the gown and Pam you are right in that there is a sheer overlay on the skirt. However, when I look at the stitching along the top of each band, it really does look as though both layers of the skirt were sewn into those individual bands above and below the beaded area. The reason I'm thinking this is when you look at the stitching along the top if the top band, there is just the slightest puckering of the nylon (or whatever kind of fabric) overlay on the skirt where it was stitched through. In any case, the banding does give the skirt of the gown a distinctive look. Patsy Patsy
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User: plrlegal
Member since: 05-19-2001 Total posts: 318 |
From: paroper
Date: 08-26-2005, 11:57 AM (11 of 16)
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I saw the stitch patterns at the banding but I didn't see seams in the sides of the banding. I thought that stitching might just be showing from the atachment. The banding also seems to stand away from the dress more at the top that I would expect with tucks. Usually with tucks there is usually a somewhat smoother line at the top and more definition in the look of the band at the bottom. If I were going to use tucks I would bias cut my skirt though because those tucks are going to go around a curve and that can sometimes cause a problem if the tucks follow a curve around a straight-of-grain skirt. I truly think that if you can get a good smooth look it probably doesn't matter how you do the trim on the bottom of the dress. It really does make the dress though.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: AndreaSews
Date: 08-26-2005, 07:57 PM (12 of 16)
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This is a fun puzzle to work out! Thanks, JackieW!
Andrea
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User: AndreaSews
Member since: 02-18-2005 Total posts: 1007
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From: JackieW
Date: 08-27-2005, 11:12 AM (13 of 16)
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This is a fun puzzle to work out! Thanks, JackieW! It's been a puzzle alright, leave it to me to attempt the almost impossible. You guys are making it easier though... paroper...I'm trying to picture this....when you sewed the strips together, did you turn it inside out, like you were sewing tiebacks for drapes? Or did you sew it together then press the seam underneath and attach that to the veil? I did buy extra fabric for the bias binding, I agree it will look much nicer. Patsy, you know it does look like it's sewn in the seam allowance of the band because of the puckering. But I"m wondering if the band would also make it pucker? Ok, what you guys do? Keep it in pieces, which would be easier to 'mark up' the piece for the beads and sequins, or leave the panel in once piece and just estimate where the bias would go and work the sequins and beads that way? Can you tell I'm not in a decisive mood today? 
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User: JackieW
Member since: 08-25-2005 Total posts: 10 |
From: paroper
Date: 08-27-2005, 12:24 PM (14 of 16)
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When I did the veil I but a strip of bias fabric and joined it into one long strip, joining the ends on the straight of grain (which made them look sloped). I folded the piece together at the center and pressed the long strip. Then I put the raw edge of the satin right side to right side against the edge and sewed it on the machine (sewing on the wrong side of the satin. Then I folded on the crease and turned under on the raw edge on the underside of the veil and hand sewed around the veil. In the case of her veil, it was like a large oval donut. The strip around her veil is visible on both sides at some point so it had to be pretty exact. The bias worked very well...it seemed like a lot of handwork but actually I cut way too much bias for the project so I guess the veil wasn't nearly as big as it looked. She wanted the veil beaded. I had a friend who had used glue and I had considered the hot glue beads. THe friend' beads that were glued popped off and the price of the hot glue beads for the number I would use seemed a little out of line. I hand tied the beads on the gown, individually tying each bead with monofiliment thread. The beads she chose were clear irridesent. The veil looks like it has little drops of water on it. The way the veil is made (in a circle) it laps over itself. I only beaded the bottom tear. When I went to do the top it almost looked like too much. If I were to use this method for the dress though I would just mark a line around the skirt with an air mark pen (don't be scared this should go away but it will be covered). You could then place your trim in this area before you do the bias strip to insure that it would be completely covered. I'd press one edge (only) under 1/4 inch on the bias strip. Then I'd put unpressed edge of the bias piece above the mark with the edge of the piece on the air mark line. I would stitch completely around the skirt on the bias piece, joining near a seam someplace on the back or side of the skirt. I would do the same basic thing for the bottom bias strip. Then I'd do a slip stitch in the fold from underneath to attach the bottom the bias strip to the dress. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: paroper
Date: 08-27-2005, 12:26 PM (15 of 16)
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As for the beading? I'd either bead an inset , add a beaded inset, or I would bead after the dress was together. I think you would get a more continuous look to the beading if it were done on a finished product.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: bridesmom
Date: 08-28-2005, 06:00 AM (16 of 16)
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When I beaded my daughters dress I did all the beading on the bodice before attaching the lining so that all the threads were on the inside of the dress, then the lining covered it all and that way the threads didn't catch on anything and was more comfortable to wear.
Laura
Tickled pink with my Innovis 4000D |
User: bridesmom
Member since: 01-21-2004 Total posts: 2026 |
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