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This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was retired in August 2007. It is being provided by “Sew What’s Up,” which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: Sew-it-seams
Date: 08-26-2005, 07:36 PM (1 of 13)
I am making a night gown using a stretch fabric and I'm using a small zig-zag stitch (the first time) for the seams which is going well. The pattern calls for darts. My question is do I still use the zig-zag stitch for the darts or switch to a straight seam?
User: Sew-it-seams
Member since: 04-27-2004
Total posts: 9
From: paroper
Date: 08-27-2005, 06:41 AM (2 of 13)
I'd probably stay with a very fine zig zag for the darts. Even darts can take a lot of stress on a knit dress and the zig zag should help keep them from pulling or popping.
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: Dede
Date: 08-27-2005, 08:25 AM (3 of 13)
I don't know what the design of the nightgown is but could the dart be changed into a pleat? If it doesn't alter the design or shape too much, it could be an alternative.

Happy sewing.
User: Dede
Member since: 03-23-2001
Total posts: 469
From: Sew-it-seams
Date: 08-29-2005, 07:01 PM (4 of 13)
Pam,
I did use the small zig zag stitch and it worked out well.
Thanks,

Dede,
I just picked up my sewing hobbie 2 years ago (a late bloomer) and I haven't done any pleats yet, as well as buttonholes, pants etc. but plan to soon.
Where would you put in pleats..below the neckline near the arms??
Thanks
User: Sew-it-seams
Member since: 04-27-2004
Total posts: 9
From: Dede
Date: 08-29-2005, 08:24 PM (5 of 13)
Pam,
Where would you put in pleats..below the neckline near the arms??


For a nightgown, I would replace the darts with pleats: Join the fabric as if you were making a dart but do not sew it, fold it towards the outside. You can secure it with a few stitches at the top (I can't for the life of me remember the exact term), then continue sewing your garment as indicated. Look at a pleat on pants or skirts and it will be clear to you.

I wouldn't do it on all garments but it is feasable on a few items.
User: Dede
Member since: 03-23-2001
Total posts: 469
From: MaryW
Date: 08-30-2005, 10:13 AM (6 of 13)
Dede, I have never seen that method. You mean the fold is on the outside of the garment? Not sewn down, just folded.
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005
Total posts: 2542
From: Dede
Date: 08-30-2005, 03:09 PM (7 of 13)
Mary, I think my explanation isn't very clear.

Join your fabric where it is indicated for the dart but instead of sewing the dart, manipulate your fabric as you would when you make a pleat in a skirt or pants i.e. fold it towards the outside. Boy I'm horrible when it comes to explaining things out.

Is it making more sense :nc:
User: Dede
Member since: 03-23-2001
Total posts: 469
From: DorothyL
Date: 08-30-2005, 07:45 PM (8 of 13)
Dede --
On the side???
Dorothy
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002
Total posts: 3883
From: MaryW
Date: 08-31-2005, 09:42 AM (9 of 13)
Does this fold begin at the shoulder seam?
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005
Total posts: 2542
From: Dede
Date: 08-31-2005, 10:10 AM (10 of 13)
[QUOTE=Dede]Join your fabric where it is indicated for the dartQUOTE]

I don't know what to tell you, when I replace a dart by a pleat (which gives a little ease to pants or skirts), I just sew maybe 5/8" where the dart begins, and press the fabric to the left and it makes a pleat instead of a dart. The pleat ends up where the dart is supposed to be. Most pants and skirts patterns have darts in the front and in the back.

Basically, don't sew your dart all the way down, just a little bit where it begins.
User: Dede
Member since: 03-23-2001
Total posts: 469
From: MaryW
Date: 08-31-2005, 10:38 AM (11 of 13)
Oooooh, ok. Gotcha. :smile:
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005
Total posts: 2542
From: Dede
Date: 08-31-2005, 10:50 AM (12 of 13)
I see where I caused some confusion: the original question was about a nightgown, not skirts or pants.

My answer still applies: Just join the widest part of the dart (maybe 1"). Don't sew the full dart.
User: Dede
Member since: 03-23-2001
Total posts: 469
From: DorothyL
Date: 08-31-2005, 03:43 PM (13 of 13)
Pants and skirts clears that up.
Dorothy
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002
Total posts: 3883
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