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From: mrsb
Date: 09-02-2005, 11:17 AM (1 of 8)
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I have sewn for 45 years and have never understood how to re-draw a new grain line once I have altered a pattern piece. I have done this by hit and miss method but now I want to know how to do it correctly. What do I use as a guide to make a straight new grain line? I think I would have to have a horizontal line, or guide to make a straight vertical like. If anyone understands what I am talking about  , I would appreciate some good advice.Thank you |
User: mrsb
Member since: 09-02-2005 Total posts: 1 |
From: Sancin
Date: 09-02-2005, 06:34 PM (2 of 8)
I am sooo glad you asked this question!! I always wonder the same thing. I find pants the most difficult and if not correct do not hang properly and are impossible to iron/press easily. I hope we get an answer soon as I need to adjust a pattern for a silk top I am making and need to wear soon. 
*~*~*~* Nancy*~*~*~* " I try to take one day at a time - but sometimes several days attack me at once."
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User: Sancin
Member since: 02-13-2005 Total posts: 895 
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From: paroper
Date: 09-03-2005, 12:53 PM (3 of 8)
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The straight of grain for most things is pretty much a line straight from the waist or neck down through the center of your body to the floor. That is why you put your center front on the fold of the pattern When you are doing flat pattern and making and fitting a sloper, you use a true straight of grain gingham so you can measure to get a true straight-of grain. To get your sloper correct, you measure upward to the hips, upward to the bust to make sure that the staight of grain is correct all the way around the body...you do the same with the sleeves. After you have established that the garment is straight from the floor, then you draw a right angle to get the correct straight of grain for "up and down" which becomes the straight of grain on the pattern. Ok, so all that being said with pants the straight of grain is pretty simple BUT there are times when you don't want the pattern to be on the straight of grain. In an a-line, gored or circular skirt, you can shift the flow of the garment by changing the straight of grain. If the SOG is toward one side angled, side, the skirt will drape at the opposite end. Usually we do the SOG in the center, but quite often we shift it to the side so that the flow is in the center. If the SOG is in the middle, the skirt will drape at both sides of the pattern piece but not as dramatically as if it were at one side or the other. Things that are cut on bias need to be hung at least 48 hours before hemming to allow the weight of the garment to settle. If you do not do this, the garment will sag. In hemming a bias cut garment, you need to measure from the floor all the way around on your subject to get a good straight hem. Remember that when measuring these hems, the person with the measuring device needs to move, not the person being hemmed to get a proper measurment! pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Sancin
Date: 09-04-2005, 03:01 AM (4 of 8)
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Thank you Pam, you seem to have answers to every question I have! Don't go away,please!
*~*~*~* Nancy*~*~*~* " I try to take one day at a time - but sometimes several days attack me at once."
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User: Sancin
Member since: 02-13-2005 Total posts: 895
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From: paroper
Date: 09-04-2005, 04:30 AM (5 of 8)
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Of course, you are welcome. Thank you for the compliment! pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Magot
Date: 09-04-2005, 09:33 AM (6 of 8)
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Pam is our resident garment sewing genius! No question too small, Pam answers them all. love and kisses, Jan
Guts-R-Us Cells a Speciality DNA to order. |
User: Magot
Member since: 12-22-2002 Total posts: 3626 
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From: MaryW
Date: 09-04-2005, 10:18 AM (7 of 8)
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And Jan is a poet and don't know it.
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542 
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From: Magot
Date: 09-04-2005, 12:04 PM (8 of 8)
Yes I do! 
love and kisses, Jan
Guts-R-Us Cells a Speciality DNA to order. |
User: Magot
Member since: 12-22-2002 Total posts: 3626
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