From: TupJane
Date: 09-06-2005, 07:38 PM (1 of 5)
I have a new customer that wishes for me to take in the waistline on 3 pairs of jeans...all are stretch jeans according to the label. She's had a baby and her body shape has changed making the waistline of these jeans too big. She originally complained that the crotch was too deep but the actual fit problem is in the too large waistline. She's uncomfortable wearing them as hip-huggers and wants to bring the waistline in so they'll ride comfortably around her waist. Here's the question...I've researched this alteration...according to Mary Roehr's book Altering Women's Ready To Wear the best option is to take a dart in the back waistline running down to just above the pocket (on both sides of course). Stitch down the resulting dart toward the center back seam. Sounds simple enough. Has anyone ever done this successfully? Second, my customer has very thin legs and would probably have benefited from a slimmer cut of jeans but if I suggest altering the legs, do I take both sides of the leg in? With the typical flatfelled seams we're talking a lot of work and expense for my customer (not that I don't want to make money Thanks in advance for all comments. Jane
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User: TupJane
Member since: 02-04-2005 Total posts: 55 |
From: AndreaSews
Date: 09-06-2005, 08:25 PM (2 of 5)
I generally agree that it's best not to turn away a customer, but it sounds like she simply needs a smaller pair of pants, all around. If you're opening up the whole waistband, possibly removing and re-positioning buttons/snaps, putting in darts, shortening the waistband, and taking in hte legs, then I'm willing to lay down cash that says she'd save money by going shopping in a store for pants that fit. I've never been upset with a service provider that was honest enough to tell me there's a cheaper and easier way. She'll remember your sound judgement and bring you work and referrals with confidence.
Andrea
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User: AndreaSews
Member since: 02-18-2005 Total posts: 1007 |
From: Libby
Date: 09-08-2005, 03:57 AM (3 of 5)
You could sneak some elastic inside the waistband to snug them up. I have done this for my daughter and she likes her jeans this way. On the inside of the waistband, pick a spot between the front and the side seam. remove the topstitching for about 1 1/2". Do this on both sides of the jeans fronts. Then thread some nonroll 1" elastic (or whatever width fits) into the waistband. Stitch down 1 end of the elastic with matching thread. Pull the other end of the elastic to fit and sew that end down too. Trim excess elastic, tuck ends up into the waistband and topstitch the waistband closed. Use matching topstitching thread here and you'll hardly see the changes. This is quick and totally encases the elastic. To do tucks in the jeans waistband, you end up sewing through several layers of denim which is harder to sew. Plus the darts in denim can rub on the skin. As for taking in the legs - I'd say either rip out the whole flat felled seam and replace it with a regular seam or don't do it at all. Taking in just part of a flat fell seam is a major hassle and it will show. |
User: Libby
Member since: 09-07-2005 Total posts: 6 |
From: mommydionne
Date: 09-08-2005, 06:47 PM (4 of 5)
personally I don't alter jeans, is just too hard and often looks bad, (I'm not a great fan of altering anyway ) but.... Sandra Betzina did an article in Threads sometime over the past year or so issue 110 or 111 on creating jeans from scratch, this did include techniques for adjusting waists and yokes etc. good luck! (perhaps she could sell them at a consignment store? )
Jeanette
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User: mommydionne
Member since: 01-08-2004 Total posts: 838 |
From: Teri
Date: 09-14-2005, 08:07 PM (5 of 5)
My least favorite alteration. I favor the sneaking in the elastic in the waist, (I thought this was my secret!) To put in the darts you need to unsew the the waist band and the darts even if sewn down can be uncomfitable and lumpy, plus it sounds as if this lady is small, so the darts need to be pretty close to the center and this can create a sharp angle from the yoke to the waist. Then the back waistbank has to be seamed, (another lump). I have made jeans using the McCall's fitting pattern and they were much easier to make from scratch then to take apart and resew, as it's all in the step by step process.
Teri
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User: Teri
Member since: 09-14-2005 Total posts: 66 |
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