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From: e50e
Date: 09-13-2005, 01:05 AM (1 of 4)
| I'm interested in experimenting with creating various collar styles, but many are not included in patterns today so I'm wondering if anyone has some tips or suggestions on creating them. I think I'd like to start off with a Peter Pan collar that nowadays is only included in young children's patterns. I found this excellent reference:http://vintagesewing.info/1940s/42-mpd/mpd-07.html, but I can't really make sense of the directions. If you have any tips on measuring them and constructing them so that they attach and look as they should onto a shirt, let me know! |
User: e50e
Member since: 08-28-2004 Total posts: 21 |
From: bunzino
Date: 09-13-2005, 08:56 PM (2 of 4)
|
A really good book for changing things and designing elements yourself (including collars) is called "Make It Your Own". It's my "go to" book whenever I want to try something different. nancy |
User: bunzino
Member since: 08-16-2002 Total posts: 119 |
From: e50e
Date: 09-13-2005, 09:03 PM (3 of 4)
| excellent. Does it give simplified instructions on creating patterns? |
User: e50e
Member since: 08-28-2004 Total posts: 21 |
From: paroper
Date: 09-15-2005, 07:38 AM (4 of 4)
|
You can learn to do it yourself pretty easily. To find the shape/size of the edgeof your collar, match your pattern shoulders and draw a line on the seamline. You'll have to decide how you want the opening of your collar to be..round, squared off, etc. You'll also have to decide where you want your collar to end in relationship to the garment. You may want it to end just shy of the center front or 1/2 inch back if you are going to button your garment down the front (or reverse it if it buttons down the back). You'll also have to decide the angle of the collar edge..whether it slants slightly forward or is straight down. You can start with rectangle. The rectangle will stand up. It is the measurment of your neckline cut in a plain box pattern. If you sew it together at the back (better be a very stretchy knit) it is a straight rolled collar. If you bias cut the collar, it has more stretch. You also see this in some sweaters where the collar is high in the back unzipped in the front and the ends extent toward the shoulders. It is the traditional turtle neck or rolled collar and sometimes has hooks or a zipper and is used on non-stretch clothing too. If you take this rectangle and start slashing the edges toward the neckline, it will begin to lay down. This is the basis for you other collar types. From this idea you can make sailor collars, Peter Pan collars, etc. Most collars are based on the tracing of the neckline shape and then the edges are split toward the neckline to make them lay flat. Usually they are split more in the front than the back creating the look of a man's shirt with the collar that stands up and folds in the back. Peter Pan collars often lay down almost flat. The depth of the collar and the points of the collar vary from fashion season to season. Generally speaking, the better the economy, the more fabric in the garment, in length, collar size, tie width, etc. For instance, during WWII much of the garment industry was dedicated to making uniforms. Products were hard to get (including fabric). People sacrificed to donate to the war effort. Skirts got tighter and shorter, men't clothing got tighter, more fitted, ties narrower, bathing suits were more revealing, etc. The Zoot suit with its big coat and sloppy large pants came into style and was considered to be anti-American because of its waste of fabric and "loose styling". In the 50's as the economy rebounded, men's pants were all large and pleated at the waistline and women wore full gathered skirts, large portrait collars (look at Lucy). pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
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