From: Bhadra
Date: 09-27-2005, 11:53 PM (1 of 30)
I am of course new to sewing with a machine, and have just embarked on my second garment. In the process of arranging the pattern on the cloth before tranferring marks and cutting, I have come across a question which has me stumped. I read that the grainline should run parallel to the axis of the material which has less stretch. The particular pattern which I am using to make a skirt in the cutting layouts sets up the material such that the grain line runs parallel to the direction of the greater stretch of fabric (100% cotton.) This means that the grainline is not parallel to the selvages, as well, whereas I read that it usually is. Now on the cutting layout there is a remark to the effect, "With or without nap," and the reference I read said that if the grainline goes with the stretch the double-ended arrow, the symbol of the grainline, would be labeled as STRETCH. Am I to conclude that the skirt I am about to make will be one whose greater stretch direction as per fabric will indeed be across the width of the cloth, and not on the length of the material? This looks like it will be the outcome if I follow the contradictions, I mean, instructions, I see. Can someone please clarify the nature of the grainline, and how it can be said to run parallel to the selvage, when in this instance it does not? I am confused by this, and my progress in making the skirt had to be undone and then stopped when I saw the discrepancy before me. Please help me. I suppose the key lies in the remark that it is "With or without nap." Thank you. |
User: Bhadra
Member since: 09-27-2005 Total posts: 23 |
From: DragonLady
Date: 09-28-2005, 12:04 AM (2 of 30)
What pattern are you using? Can you give us the company and the number? That would help us figure out which way it's supposed to go. Generally, the grainline runs parallel with the selvage. But there exceptions, and it depends on the designer, the type of garment, the 'drape' of the finished item, and the fabric. If it's a "bias cut" skirt, the grainline will run at an angle across the straight grain. That gives it more drape, and will allow it to cling to the body more closely. "No more twist! No more twist!"
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User: DragonLady
Member since: 11-10-2004 Total posts: 152 |
From: Bhadra
Date: 09-28-2005, 12:13 AM (3 of 30)
Certainly, and thank you. The pattern is "Easy" McCalls #2211 Size H. |
User: Bhadra
Member since: 09-27-2005 Total posts: 23 |
From: DragonLady
Date: 09-28-2005, 12:25 AM (4 of 30)
I went and looked up the pattern at McCalls' site. As far as I can tell from looking at it, this skirt would run parallel with the grain. But if it has facings inside, they probably don't. Is you question regarding the main body of the skirt, or a smaller section? Also, does your fabric have a nap (a pattern or design that runs one direction)? "No more twist! No more twist!"
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User: DragonLady
Member since: 11-10-2004 Total posts: 152 |
From: Bhadra
Date: 09-28-2005, 02:12 AM (5 of 30)
Your conclusion that this skirt runs parallel with the grain matches what I had gathered. I am sorry, what do you mean by 'facings inside?' My question regards the main body of the skirt. The fabric has a unique pattern of USA flag art, and it is strangely arrayed in swirls of circular design which repeat regularly, but which do not have the same power of pattern that, say, a plaid or stripes would have. I analyzed this before I bought the material, since I know that a step towards arranging a regular pattern such as a plaid would be one too many for me at this point in my learning. Therefore, I think that the cloth can at least be cut in the same direction for a fundamental match, but exactitude in the geometry of meeting pattern design just will not present a quandary for me. I could provide a picture of the art, as it is very beautiful. |
User: Bhadra
Member since: 09-27-2005 Total posts: 23 |
From: DragonLady
Date: 09-28-2005, 02:23 AM (6 of 30)
I am sorry, what do you mean by 'facings inside?' Okay; facings are short pieces that are shaped to the necklines, pockets, sleeves, etc where the wrong side of the fabric might show. They are often cut on the bias or on the cross grain so the lie flat, and are stitched inside the garment. The fabric has a unique pattern of USA flag art, and it is strangely arrayed in swirls of circular design which repeat regularly, but which do not have the same power of pattern that, say, a plaid or stripes would have. Okay; then you need to use the directions for "with nap". Also, be sure you're looking at the layout for the proper fabric width. Can you scan the relevant part of the instruction sheet? That might help us make a bit more sense of the problem. "No more twist! No more twist!"
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User: DragonLady
Member since: 11-10-2004 Total posts: 152 |
From: paroper
Date: 09-28-2005, 07:57 AM (7 of 30)
Generally, the term Nap means that the fabric has a texture that looks different one way than the other..velvet, some furs, and cordoroy are all very good examples. When cutting the fabric, the material must all go the same direction so that you don't end up with a texture difference when you wear the garment. When you purchase patterned material, sometimes you find a similar effect in the printing of the fabric. If you look closely, you may find that there is one flower that is not printed both directions or that the material is printed so that it flows one direction. In a case like that, you would also use the nap directions. It is not uncommon that a plaid will also have a one way design...always look carefully because some of it can be subtile. In a knit fabric, the give should almost always be across the body so that the body utilizes the natural ease of the fabric. In almost all knits, unless they have two way stretch, the stretch is across the fabric between the selvages because of the way that it is loomed. If you use a one way knit fabric the wrong direction, it may sag as it has a tendancy to pull against the natural stretch of the fabric at any rate, you won't enjoy the full benefits of the stretch. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 09-28-2005, 08:50 AM (8 of 30)
At first I thought you were talking about a bias cut skirt but I've made that skirt before. Very straight forward. Line the arrow up with the selvage and you will be OK. There doesn't seem to be any reason why you shouldn't use the nap layout. I always try to lay my patterns out in the same direction just as a matter of course. That way there are no nasty surprises later. That big shirt in that pattern is one of my favorites. It's huge, quick, easy and comfortable. I must have half a dozen of them. Good luck. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: Bhadra
Date: 09-28-2005, 10:33 AM (9 of 30)
Pam: Thank you for the support and information. I am going to take a trip into New York City today, so that everything is on hold. When I resume, I will weigh what I am learning from all of you gracious people in this community and see what is what. Thanks again. I looked closely at the pattern so as to weigh the question of nap not for the nature of the fabric, but as to the regularity of the pattern. The pattern does differ from one axis to the other, vertical versus horizontal. I think I will have to go with the instructions following the nap. Bhadra |
User: Bhadra
Member since: 09-27-2005 Total posts: 23 |
From: Bhadra
Date: 09-28-2005, 10:46 AM (10 of 30)
Dorothy, If I line the pattern pieces up parallel to the selvages, then they become arrayed differently on the cloth than what is shown in the picture. This is a major difference for a beginner like me, since then I must depart from the picture in the instructions. I did configure them on the material with the grainline arrow on the pattern as according to the specifications I had learned, that the grainline should be parallel to the selvage after first following the picture in the top of the box for the 44" width material. That is when the contradiction struck me, as I do not want to make a fundamental error, which is what it seems to be there when the picture of the pattern pieces do not appear as configured by my own perception of the meaning of the grainline and how to line things up using it as a guideline. I am glad to hear that the blouse is nice to do, and if I find some inspiring material, perhaps I will attempt it based upon what you said. Thanking you, Marilynn |
User: Bhadra
Member since: 09-27-2005 Total posts: 23 |
From: Bhadra
Date: 09-28-2005, 10:54 AM (11 of 30)
Dear Dragon Lady, When I return to the project in the next couple of days, I will send you a scan of the diagram from which I had worked. My question remains as to which diagram allows the nap to be in effect in aranging the pattern pieces on the material, so that maybe you can clarify this once and for all. If I learn it here, then perhaps the next pattern will be easier for me to do. Thank you for your immediate help. Bhadra |
User: Bhadra
Member since: 09-27-2005 Total posts: 23 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 09-28-2005, 11:33 AM (12 of 30)
Marilynn I just got my pattern out and realized what your problem might be. You cut two pieces -- the front and the back with skirt pattern piece 13. You cut them on the fold. Fold the fabric lengthwise and lay the straight side of the pattern piece along the fold. You will get one wide piece of fabric. That is the front. Do it again and that is the back. If you are looking at a lay out where one side of the pattern has lines and the other is white they are saying on a single layer of fabric cut one side out then -- with the straight edge still in place turn the pattern over and cut the other side out so you have one large piece. You turn the pattern over like turning the page in a book. There are two reasons why I'd advise against that if you are a beginner and if you have enough fabric to do two on the fold. First, it is more confusing and second it is harder to cut one layer of fabric than two without it slipping around. If you can put it on the fold twice and get two pieces exactly the same and twice the size of the pattern piece do that. cut four pockets -- cut twice of two layers and one tie (which I didn't use at all). If you do the shirt, the back goes on the fold. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: paroper
Date: 09-28-2005, 03:30 PM (13 of 30)
It also occured to me that it is possible that the fabric was refolded from the store. Dorothy knows better than I how much fabric this might require so this might be a silly idea. There have been times when the fabric I bought was refolded at the store and it was folded cross grain but was difficult to notice because the piece that I bought was pretty much square in size. You just need to check the edges to make sure that they are finished. Depending upon how the fabric was made, sometimes the fabric is made in a tube and cut and there may not be a clear selvage but in a knit there is usually a ribbing (however slight) where each stitch joins to the next row. Woven fabrics are made like baskets. Knit fabric is made in loops so that each row loops into the next row and is connected across as the fabric is made..just like knitting a sweater by hand. One of the major reason that the fabric will stretch is because it has more fiber in the row than woven fabric. This results in a stretch across the width of the fabric. However, there is a technique in knitting fabric that will make it stretch both directions.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Bhadra
Date: 09-29-2005, 11:50 PM (14 of 30)
Dorothy: Your last message has solved my quandary. If I had gone forward with my set-up and had not seen that the grainline was 90 degrees away from where it should be according to theory I had read, I would have seen and done what you have described. I have decided to line the skirt, even though it is cotton, with another cotton -- white flannel. After I conceived of this idea, I also read somewhere that the two materials are put together. I want to be able to wear the skirt in the upcoming seasons. I will have to say a special prayer of thanks to the nice members of this community like you who so generously advise. Being certain is a gift when moving along in a new art, which is what sewing is, largely, to me. My greatest inspiration is the beauty of the fabrics I see. It used to be the beauty, form and style of the garments that can be made. When the two come together after some experience, then my artisitic sensibilities will have been requited...at least until the next step on the sewing trail. Thanking you, Bhadra |
User: Bhadra
Member since: 09-27-2005 Total posts: 23 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 09-30-2005, 07:37 AM (15 of 30)
Bhadra -- Sounds to me like you are hooked! Good luck. You picked a good beginning project. I'd put two skirts together with the pockets in one or leave them out all together and sew them together at the top before making the casing. It should drape well that way. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: Bhadra
Date: 09-30-2005, 07:57 PM (16 of 30)
Dorothy, Perhaps you are right about the pockets. It might prove to be rather too complicated for me to learn both a lining and pockets on my first skirt. Tell me, do you think that a light flannel is a good lining for a cotton skirt? I made my first garment, pajama bottoms, with flannel, so I have developed a feel for it. Also, it is warm. But I read that a lining is better made of a slippery material, so that it will allow the skirt to drape more -- there is less friction between the two materials at their interface. If you say to find a silk or polyester or some other fabric, I would go with it. I am only partial to flannel. When I reach the casing, you imply that I will be making a casing from the actual double layer of skirt plus lining, is that not correct? I could figure a way to do that. (I have a little confidence at the casing, since by the time I had reached the casing on the pajamas, I had learned more of how to sew; I think the casing became one of the best parts of the garment all together because of that, if not the best.) I understand from reading that the lining of the skirt does not have to be attached or hemmed itself. But tell me, would I sew the lining and outer skirt together at the waist, then just treat the creation of the casing as if it were the single layer called for in the instructions for the outer skirt in order to form the casing? Is that the basic idea? I am using the following link as a guide: http://www.sewing.org/enthusiast/html/el_lining1.html (http://www.sewing.org/enthusiast/html/el_lining1.html) Thanking you, Bhadra |
User: Bhadra
Member since: 09-27-2005 Total posts: 23 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 10-01-2005, 08:50 AM (17 of 30)
There are three ways you could do this. If you want to do a regular lining, with this skirt I would just let the lining hang free, joined only at the top. If you do that the casing will be even easier because all the seams will be between the lining and the skirt so you will just turn the casing down, sew it and the elastic will slide right through. If you go with the pockets you would just put them in the fashion fabric so they lay between the skirt and the lining. It shouldn't be a problem. For this method I would use a silky fabric for lining. It will serve as a slip and drape much better. Hem it a inch or two shorter than the skirt. If warmth is the main thing and you want to use flannel I would use the lightest weight I could find and I would underline the skirt. That means you sew the flannel to the skirt pieces before you start to assemble the skirt. That would work fine with this pattern since there are no darts or anything like that to deal with. You could put the pockets in -- made from either the fashion fabric or flannel -- but don't underline them. With this method you will want to finish the seams somehow so they look a little more attractive but not with a method that adds even more bulk. Maybe you could trim the flannel shorter than the fashion fabric since it will lay under the fashion fabric in the seams. Then you could just zig zag the seams. Or, if you want the benefits of both methods you could interline. That is when you underline the lining, using a light fabric to line the skirt but have a warmer one sewed between the layers, usually to the lining but not necessasarily. One thing is very basic and important. Prewash the fabric and the lining (and or underlining) to make sure colors aren't going to run together and that one fabric isn't going to shrink. Especially if you are working with cotton. Better safe than sorry. And let me know what you decide and how it turns out. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: Bhadra
Date: 10-01-2005, 10:12 AM (18 of 30)
Dorothy, I am going to have to think this over and make a plan. Your knowledge is very helpful to me. I have a very clear picture through what you said, and also I find it very interesting. Just as an intuitive response before plan and action, I think that to underline the fabric is more of what I had envisioned from a vague idea in my ignorance of structure, yet desire to make cloth work for a purpose beyond aesthetic appeal. The interference I am having is wonderful, as I have another project all lined up and claiming all spare dreams as I contemplate both: I am about to make a throw out of the first fabric I ever bought when I bought the sewing machine last spring. I have some Dupioni silk of lemon yellow color and some medium grade fleece (which has a little memory in it, not much) all ready for assembly before cutting, ideationally. I have only done some basic measurements. I look forward to this project out of my love for silk. As concerns both projects, I have washed the cotton flag art fashion fabric, so it is set to go. I have just reviewed how to wash the Dupioni silk, and something tells me to use Woolite with the silk, which is what is holding me up on it -- I have none on hand. I do not mean to jump ahead, but then, having the boon of knowledge being delivered so kindly to me from one of your stature and experience also serves to bring home to me the fact that the world is opening up to me, and it is the world of sewing. If you say I am hooked, yes, I stand in the day and wonder why I had never done this before. I also have the answer, which may puzzle you: in high school I saw the clothes a friend used to make and considered them quaint, not fashionable, and also, I would look at patterns in JJ Newberry's and see the simplicity of style. These two factors squelched my creative plane of prospective involvement, and I never embarked. I now see the art work in it, and I would love to be able to transcend the sector of structural simplicity based upon straightforward and practical geometry in sewing, so as to realize the realm of advanced design and thus be able to integrate the desire to shape with art and greater variations in form, thus lending style and fashion where I as a beginner could only find foundation of structure and perfection of stitch, if lucky. But now I have more than luck on my side; I am astonished at this Internet for its power as a teaching tool. I am grateful for your instruction, very grateful indeed. I will let you know how the skirt comes along, and will soon choose a lining, or an underlining, and process one or both, and cut and sew. I now know how to cut this skirt, and can proceed with a certain assurance. By the way, I just read sbout Tencel, and am incredulous that cellulose itself can be used to make a fabric. I cannot wait to find some in a store somewhere, probably not near where I live, though, and see what it is like. I might just order some on the Internet. It has my curiosity. Have a beautiful day, as you have made mine. Bhadra P.S. I jsut received an idea for the tie on the skirt, which I will preserve secretively until finished. |
User: Bhadra
Member since: 09-27-2005 Total posts: 23 |
From: paroper
Date: 10-01-2005, 11:04 AM (19 of 30)
Good job, Dorothy!
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 10-01-2005, 01:21 PM (20 of 30)
Bhadra, When you go out to buy the Woolite, please look for a Dollar Tree Store. They sell a cold water wash that does exactly the same work as Woolite, and only costs $ 1.00 for a 16 ounce bottle.. Even my son uses it on his Polo Shirts and won't use anything else.. I have been using this for 6 years now.. Look at all the money I have saved to buy fabric with.... Sew With Love
Libby |
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002 Total posts: 2022 |
From: Bhadra
Date: 10-01-2005, 10:42 PM (21 of 30)
Libby: Thanks for the steer to the Dollar Tree Store. I certainly will save the dollars. I take this to mean that it is indeed advisable to use a Woolite-type soap on Dupioni silk. Bhadra |
User: Bhadra
Member since: 09-27-2005 Total posts: 23 |
From: Sancin
Date: 10-02-2005, 05:10 AM (22 of 30)
Bhadra - Silk and fine woolens and other specialty fabrics all need to be washed with a gentle liquid washing product. When I run out of Woolite I use liquid washing product labelled for infants/baby clothing. I also wash fine fabrics by hand or simply soak in a washing machine, spin dry and keep rinsing until you are very sure there is not any washing product left. If you want to see patterns a little out of the ordinary and usually easy to sew check out the following designers. I can see your yellow silk made up in any number of patterns. I am particularly fond of Lois Ericson and her daughter Diane Ericson's clothing. http://www.timmelfabrics.com/louisecutting.htm http://www.pavelkadesign.com/ http://www.revisions-ericson.com/patterns.html http://www.sewingworkshop.com/ http://www.alondaoriginal.com/ http://birchstreet-folkwear.com/ http://www.dosdetejas.com/ http://www.sewingpatterns.com/ - excellent and large choice - many of the previous FYI: Rayon is also a fabric made from cellulose and it has a wonderful drape. It may be easier to find than Tancel, which is quite new to home sewers and I find a little heavier. I hope you enjoy your sewing and designing. *~*~*~* Nancy*~*~*~* " I try to take one day at a time - but sometimes several days attack me at once."
|
User: Sancin
Member since: 02-13-2005 Total posts: 895 |
From: Bhadra
Date: 10-03-2005, 12:41 AM (23 of 30)
Sancin, I took a tour through the links you provided, and found the styles throughout are more of what I would envision. One step at a time is true, but then, where is the path? I want to thank you sincerely for your thoughtfulness in providing me this valuable "glimpse" at what one can do from a more artistic category. I will refer to this message when the time arrives, hopefully soon. I will let you know. Sincerely, Bhadra |
User: Bhadra
Member since: 09-27-2005 Total posts: 23 |
From: Bhadra
Date: 01-18-2006, 02:11 AM (24 of 30)
To all those who helped me get started in sewing my skirt so long ago, thank you. The skirt proper is finished. I am putting on some finishing touches such as belt loops, trim, and the belt is also in process. The decor on the belt took a great deal of time, and my experience in hand sewing found its own as I added some beautiful applique to make the belt set off the skirt. I also am making a head band, and have not decided if and when I might make a matching blazer so as to turn it into a suit. I am too anxious to get on with my next project, which will be a silk jacket. This has been an enlightening experience, and the start I received from this community was a great help to me. I will post a picture of the skirt as soon as I totally finish it. Especially there were three articles by Julie Culshaw which were of invaluable assistance to me with this skirt, and I would be glad to recommend them to anyone who is doing a skirt, is a beginner or just new to the skirt idea, and would like some very useful knowledge. I searched all throughout, found some most interesting articles, and found that these three mentioned were the best. Let me know if you need the references, and I will post them for you here, or, you can email me, of course. Thanks again for your kind support in getting me started. What a fine art is sewing! It is fine and it is so practical. I am so inspired by this skirt. Bhadra |
User: Bhadra
Member since: 09-27-2005 Total posts: 23 |
From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 01-19-2006, 11:17 AM (25 of 30)
We will love seeing the pictures when you get them posted.. Loved hearing about your progress.. Keep up the great work..
Sew With Love
Libby |
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002 Total posts: 2022 |
From: Bhadra
Date: 01-19-2006, 01:26 PM (26 of 30)
Dear Libby et Alia: I am glad to hear from you! It took a long time for me to finally get the physical product completed, the skirt, since I read so much and studied as I went along. It took research for me to start each step along the way. Now I am busy creating the belt, and then the loops. The belt is about a third of the way finished, and I want it to be completed before I take the pictures and post them. Thank you again, Libby, for the initial time you so kindly took in guiding me, and also, to everyone. I can assure you, the next project will be a little faster, since I learned so much in creating the skirt. I want to make a silk jacket, and it will be lined. I successfully lined this skirt, so I am now in the know as to how to form a lining and fuse the two materials, even taking into account the turn of the cloth when the two fabrics are just being centered for pinning before basting them. In the making of the skirt I think the most challenging part was cutting out the material according to the pattern, and this is where the forum here came into critical play for me. The question of the matching of the pattern might be the stickler, as I went along with the concept artistically that the flags are so mesmerizing, that the exactitude of matching as a concept held very little meaning, or none. I feel requited on that concept, since there is no noticeable or outstanding sense of defect in the way the patterns appear where the seams are formed. Rather, they fit together in a unique and non-descript way, which is what I had envisioned when I bought the material. All of the lines of the art work are wavy, since there are sections of flags billowing forth as the leading artistic feature. One day when I am making a flannel shirt out of plaid material, where everything is linear and of simple form, I will have to address the geometry of the plaid and how to fit it together perfectly, but on this one, I succeeded without worrying about it. Perhaps when you see the picture of the fashion fabric design you will see what I mean. As more advanced sewers some of you may differ with me, and I also respect that. But in the artistic sense, I am personally pleased. In fact, I made that observation standing in the store when I decided to purchase the fabric and go into the project, and when the seams were finally sewn, I never even checked on the question of the matching of the patterns. I will be in touch here soon. Bhadra |
User: Bhadra
Member since: 09-27-2005 Total posts: 23 |
From: Bhadra
Date: 01-29-2006, 12:25 AM (27 of 30)
To all those who helped me launch my first skirt, I have at this link for you a picture of the skirt: Flag art skirt lined with flannel (http://www.starkartistry.com/id25.html) Soon I will add its picture with a finished belt. Thank you -- this is partly your creation. I loved the attention I received here, and was overwhelmed with the knowledge which resides in the people of this community. You will see in the picture part of the table in the kitchen upon which I cut the skirt. You will also see how it is filled out, or puffed out, by the lining, the exact effect I had foreseen. Go to the link here at my art Web site and scroll to the bottom of the page, then click onto the picture there and a new window will open with a larger picture for you. Sewing is indeed a very real art for the very real world, is it not? Bhadra P.S. LeapFrog Libby: I have the silk out and am contemplating how to start the silk jacket. I did buy the fabric cleaner you had recommended at the Dollar Tree, and the silk is nice and soft after washing with it. Thanks. |
User: Bhadra
Member since: 09-27-2005 Total posts: 23 |
From: Bhadra
Date: 02-14-2006, 10:56 AM (28 of 30)
To All: I thought it my duty to close this thread in the community forum with a note here that the belt to the skirt can be seen at Patriotic skirt with belt (http://www.starkartistry.com/id25.html) at the bottom of the page. Just click onto the picture there and it will open into a window with a larger picture for you. Thank you all. Bhadra |
User: Bhadra
Member since: 09-27-2005 Total posts: 23 |
From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 02-16-2006, 04:56 PM (29 of 30)
Beautiful workmanship ! ! Does not look like beginner work at all. I love the belt also.. really adds to the overall look.. Very professionally done.. Give yourself a pat on the back..
Sew With Love
Libby |
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002 Total posts: 2022 |
From: Bhadra
Date: 02-17-2006, 01:30 AM (30 of 30)
Libby, I am most pleased at your comments, as I have no real standard of comparison to go by in assessing the skirt as to what would have resulted had you or someone with your knowledge and experience performed the same work. I view the result as what I had envisioned, and that is a fundamental reward which is more privately held. But to hear your deep compliments here at the forum where my idea and vision had originally been nurtured so kindly is a gift to me. I want to thank you for the appraisal you gave me. Your appraisal brings me full circle, and believe me, the feedback will prepare me now to cut the material for the silk jacket. I have already given that project some time, and it is as good as underway as per my studying the pattern, buying the underlining, and thinking it through in dry form. Thank you again, and thanks to all who read here and gain the knowledge necessary to go forth. Your most appreciative one, Bhadra |
User: Bhadra
Member since: 09-27-2005 Total posts: 23 |
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