Sew What’s Up Presents
The Sew What’s New Archive
This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and
quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was
retired in August 2007. It is being provided by
“Sew What’s Up,”
which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: chiachia
Date: 10-10-2005, 12:18 PM (1 of 26)
|
hi i've just discovered this great forum after doing a yahoo search. I'm trying to make a circular skirt for some girls, and have problems with these: 1. if the waist is 22", how much more should I cut? (is this the same regardless of what the waist is? or by proportion?) I tried cutting exactly at 22", then it is too tight for the girl to pull it over her hips. Then I remove the waistband and cut off another 4 inches, and now there is so much "extra"fabric on the waist band, making it look quite ugly and fluffy. 2. i have read some earlier posts about sewing the hem, and i am having the same problem too. i use pins, and find that as i sew, the hem keeps "pulling" towards the direction i am sewing. I don;t have any of those foot pedals that have been mentioned - mine is a very simple machine - any idea how i can overcome this problem? I have also tried stitching by hand (sorry dont know what is this called, but it's the basic up and down stitch to hold the hem together, then i sew over with the machine). some of you mentioned that you do the hem by hand, can anyone teach me how to? is there any websites with pictures/instructions on how this can be done? 3. back to the elastic band. should the casing be exactly the same width as the elastic band, or slightly thinner? i ask this because the elastic band keeps twisiting around when the girl is wearing the skirt. how can i prevent this? thanks! angeline |
User: chiachia
Member since: 10-10-2005 Total posts: 21 
|
From: chiachia
Date: 10-10-2005, 12:28 PM (2 of 26)
|
hello everyone sorry in my haste to post, i forgot to first introduce myself! I have always been keen to sew, but have never taken any formal sewing lessons. So far, I've made a few things, mostly very squarish and simple measurement kind of stuff.  for clothes, since I do not know how to take measurements to draw patterns, what I did is take one of my own (or my daughter's) clothes, and trace from there. Quite crazy, but works fine so far.  Are there any websites that gives beginner's classes free of charge? Honestly i dont even know the most basic technical terms (eg hem, can you believe it?) so it took me a while to understand what i am reading!  that's it for now. I'm so glad I found this forum - thanks! angeline |
User: chiachia
Member since: 10-10-2005 Total posts: 21
|
From: debsews
Date: 10-10-2005, 01:41 PM (3 of 26)
|
Hi, I'm fairly inexperienced at sewing also but one of the first tips I got was to put the elastic in the casing and then adjust so it's even all the way around. Then sew through the elastic and casing in each seam. Front, back and side seams. This keeps the elastic from curling and twisting. That's about all I can tell you at this point. Works for me! |
User: debsews
Member since: 09-16-2005 Total posts: 254 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 10-10-2005, 02:28 PM (4 of 26)
|
First off -- with that kind of curve on the skirt you want the hem as narrow as possible. And you might want to ease in the fullness by using a long machine stitch or even a running stitch by hand (in and out in a straight line) right along the bottom maybe a 1/4 to 1/2 inch in. Then you can pull the threads on the line of stitching and "ease" the fullness in. With many fabrics once you get the ease in you can hit it with some steam from the iron and it will shrink it up. That should take some fullness in before you sew the hem. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: Magot
Date: 10-10-2005, 03:18 PM (5 of 26)
|
Hi Chiachia - welcome to the gang. Basic sewing lesson are here on our very own sew whats new! Check on the home page and you will find them http://www.sew-whats-new.com/sewinglessons/ with our very own expert, Julie. I can vouch for them being clear and easy to understand and if you get stuck, follow the time honoured example of our many members and YELL! love and kisses, Jan
Guts-R-Us Cells a Speciality DNA to order. |
User: Magot
Member since: 12-22-2002 Total posts: 3626 
|
From: ninifav
Date: 10-11-2005, 12:05 AM (6 of 26)
| Hi Angeline and welcome...you are very brave to attempt to sew without instructions; so you will probably do well because you are not afraid to try new things....See if you can find at the book store, on-line or at the library the book called "Sewing for Dummies." It is great with the simple terms and gives easy examples for you to try...After not sewing for many years, I had forgotten a lot...good luck...you will do just wonderful...Paula |
User: ninifav
Member since: 09-06-2004 Total posts: 204 |
From: paroper
Date: 10-11-2005, 03:57 AM (7 of 26)
|
In general, a 22 waist would need about 22 1/2 inches to fit well. The waist of adult women is usually the smallest body measurment. You have a couple of choices. You can either insert a zipper or you can gather the waist with elastic. The most common way to gather a circular skirt is to use a waistband and gather that. Most skirt zippers are 7-9 inches. I prefer the 9.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: chiachia
Date: 10-11-2005, 04:01 AM (8 of 26)
|
First off -- with that kind of curve on the skirt you want the hem as narrow as possible. And you might want to ease in the fullness by using a long machine stitch or even a running stitch by hand (in and out in a straight line) right along the bottom maybe a 1/4 to 1/2 inch in. Then you can pull the threads on the line of stitching and "ease" the fullness in. With many fabrics once you get the ease in you can hit it with some steam from the iron and it will shrink it up. That should take some fullness in before you sew the hem. Dorothy hi Dorothy and everyone! Thanks for the warm welcome! First, I must apologise -- I am really not familiar with the most basic technical terms. Can you explain what you mean by "using a long machine stitch or even a running stitch by hand" -- is this temporary, otherwise I cant figure out how to sew this stitch without it being seen on the right side of the skirt? Do you mean to do this up and down stitches in a straight line (temporary), then pull the long stitch of thread to adjust, then iron before actually sewing with the machine? Thanks for bearing with me, and I really appreciate your advice. angeline |
User: chiachia
Member since: 10-10-2005 Total posts: 21
|
From: chiachia
Date: 10-11-2005, 04:07 AM (9 of 26)
|
Hi, I'm fairly inexperienced at sewing also but one of the first tips I got was to put the elastic in the casing and then adjust so it's even all the way around. Then sew through the elastic and casing in each seam. Front, back and side seams. This keeps the elastic from curling and twisting. That's about all I can tell you at this point. Works for me! Hi Deb thanks for your tips. What do you mean by "sew through the elastic and casing in each seam". sorry i think i dont know what is a seam? another problem i face when sewing the elastic AND casing together is -- the elastic is uneven. I gather that I have to kind of pull the elastic and sew at the same time, but somehow, towards the end, there will sometimes be too much elastic or too little, making that section very crunch up. kwim? angeline |
User: chiachia
Member since: 10-10-2005 Total posts: 21
|
From: paroper
Date: 10-11-2005, 04:18 AM (10 of 26)
|
Your machine has number that tell you how long your stitches are. There are two types of machines. Some machines have numbers that tell you how many stitches per inch or mm. Others have numbers that tell you physically how long your stitches are. For this reason, I can't tell you which direction to move your lever or button or whatever to adjust your stitch length...you'll just have to try it. Play with your stitch adjustment and take it to where the length of your stitches is the longest. Things that are sewn at this length are called "basted". You use this for a number of things. Basted stitches, if not decorative, are usually temp use stitches to help in the construction of your garment. It is not necessarily important that they be removed, esp. if they don't show. On most machines, when you baste stitches, if you pull the bottom thread (the bobbin thread), it pulls easily and will allow you to gather your garment. If you need perfectly adjusted ease or gathers, you usually use two rows of stitching...but for this situation, one row close to the edge will probably be enough. You can also just run a long hand stitch for basting. These are easier to remove. If your circular skirt happens to be felt, there is no need to finish your hem (by the way). pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: paroper
Date: 10-11-2005, 04:27 AM (11 of 26)
|
A seam is where two different pieces of fabric come together and are sewn. If you look at the inside of almost any garment, you will see places where the fabric is sewn together and then folded back. Sometimes the seams are bound together by a machine called a serger. In this case, the casing is a piece of fabric that either added like a waistband or it is just folded down and sewn. (Since your skirt is round, an added piece would be easier.) The casing is just a tunnel where you run your elastic. You need to leave a little opening in the end or at the bottom edge of the tunnel to allow your elastic to be fed into the space. The elastic is not attached to the edge of the fabric but is running free through the tunnel. Then general length that you cut is the waist measurment plus one inch. (You can run the elastic through by attaching a large safety pin to the end and then pulling that through the tunnel. After you have run the elastic, you try on the skirt and adjust the length. Join the edges of the elastic so that your piece is now circular. You may then close the little hole in the garment that allowed you to run the elastic through. Sometimes the elastic will roll up. She is telling you that each side, where there are seams, run a line of stitching through the seam to hold the elastic open and securely in place. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: chiachia
Date: 10-11-2005, 05:32 AM (12 of 26)
|
Sometimes the elastic will roll up. She is telling you that each side, where there are seams, run a line of stitching through the seam to hold the elastic open and securely in place. Thanks for your explanation, Pam. Now I understand what a seam and baste means! I have just read the sewing lessons, but still bits that I dont understand.  ok, about sewing stitches along the waistband and elastic -- do you just pull the elastic and sew? why is it that when i sew three straight lines of stitches along the waistband, the elastic band seems to become less elastic? Do i have to use the zigzag stitch or the broken zigzag (3step zigzag, as the instruction booklet says). Do you know what this 3step zigsag is for? I wish the instruction manuel is a little more comprehensive in explaining the usage of each!thanks again! angeline |
User: chiachia
Member since: 10-10-2005 Total posts: 21
|
From: paroper
Date: 10-11-2005, 01:30 PM (13 of 26)
|
I don't normally attach the elastic directly to the garment...although plenty of people do. To do that you stretch a bit as you go but it seems to me that I always loose some of the stretch and rebound of the elastic when I do that. By far my favorite method is as I described earlier. I make a "trench" as stated above and sew it shut except for a small opening. Then I put a large safety pin in the end of my elastic and run it through the trench. This trench is called a casing. When I have gone all the way around the garment, I try the garment on for fit and I pull the elastic to a comfortable fit being careful not to overstretch the elastic. If you over stretch the elastic it won't last as long...but a nice secure fit is fine. When I am satisfied with the fit I sew the two end of the elastic together and tuck them back into the casing. Then I sew the little hole in the casing shut.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: chiachia
Date: 10-12-2005, 05:37 PM (14 of 26)
|
Thanks Pam. Sorry if I was unclear - I understand the casing part, and this is exactly what I did. What I had meant was after inserting the elastic through the casing, testing that it fits nicely, and sewing close the little gap ... I find that the elastic kinds of twist and curl around while wearing the skirt. So I did what Deb had suggested, if I had understood correctly - to sew through the elastic and casing at the centre, top and bottom. and i find that after doing this to stop the twisting, but the elastic seems to become less stretchy after that? Why is that so? Thanks! angeline |
User: chiachia
Member since: 10-10-2005 Total posts: 21
|
From: paroper
Date: 10-12-2005, 05:45 PM (15 of 26)
|
Two reasons. Some elastic just isn't as good as others. I can't exactly explain how to tell except that there is a type that I never get. When you look at it, it has little lines that go up, circle and come back down and then it is like someone stitched over it. I never buy that kind. I usually buy mine by the yard so I can test it. Some elastics just don't seem to have the "pop" that other elastic has. Another thing, don't pull the elastic tight. Just pull it comfortable. Sometimes if you hyperextend the elastic it looses it rebound. Keep the area of the casing as free of extra fabric as you can. I find that if I have interfacings and other things going through that area that it seems to have an effect on the looks of the elastic casing....too bulky. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: chiachia
Date: 10-12-2005, 06:09 PM (16 of 26)
|
Thanks Pam. I will try to go look at the different types of elastic. Wish I could test, but they all come prepacked!?!? Please pardon me for being so slow to comprehend, but I don't understand what you mean by "keep the area of the casing as free of extra fabric as you can". If I don't have enough cloth at the waist, it wont be able to go through the hips right? I thought the more cloth, the easier for the wearer to put it on? ... what is interfacings? btw do you know of any sites that explains these terms? thanks again! angeline |
User: chiachia
Member since: 10-10-2005 Total posts: 21
|
From: DorothyL
Date: 10-12-2005, 07:03 PM (17 of 26)
|
I've found some kinds of elastic (it seems like it's always the kind I get) doesn't hold up well when you sew through it lengthwise. The best way to keep it from twisting -- I think -- is just sew up and down in the casing at seam lines. If there is no seam in the casing, since it is just in the back, I think I would just sew a line of stitching at the center back from the top to the bottom of the casing. Usually there is not a lot of twisting in such a small length but that is what I would do if there was. Or you could make the casing and sew a line from end to end in the middle and put in two rows of narrower elastic. That would be less likely to twist. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: Raevenflyte
Date: 10-12-2005, 11:52 PM (18 of 26)
|
Hi there ChiaChia, Here are some links on how to make a circle skirt: This one (http://www.gothfashion.info/circlepixie.php) has some fairly detailed instructions. This one's (http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=15094.0) at Craftster.org This one seems to be a little more advanced (http://zilltech.com/FAQCostumeCS.html) than the one at craftster. Hope this helps, R |
User: Raevenflyte
Member since: 03-16-2005 Total posts: 32 
|
From: paroper
Date: 10-12-2005, 11:58 PM (19 of 26)
|
INterfacing is a special fabric that is often used in waist bands, cuffs, sleeves, etc. to give them body and make them stand up better. It can be woven or it can be like pelon or it can even be knit. I put this is almost everything I sew because the garment looks nicer and wears better but when I make an elastic casing or waist band, I do not. You want your casing to be as close to one layer of fabric folded in half as you can get it, without extra interfacings or linings. We also have packaged elastic but we can buy it by the yard on large round spools here. I often buy several yards at a time because if I am doing a lot of sewing, I usually end up with a lot of little pieces if I use the packages. The price by the yard is cheaper and the waste is far less. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: LauraM62
Date: 10-13-2005, 08:28 AM (20 of 26)
Just to add my 2 cents for you  you have some wonderful tips & info! I sew for my girls, and have done the circle skirts! On the hem, I have found the easiest thing is to use steam-a-seam! Steam-a-seam lite to be exact. Now steam-a-seam is like an interfacing but is double sided sticky. I serge the raw edge of my skirt/fabric, then iron the steam-a-seam, fold the steam-a-seam over without removing the paper backing and press for a good press line, then start removing the paper. This lets me work the fabric in, and/or ease it in. Once it is eased in with the tacky steam-a-seam, then I press, then sew with a straight stitch on the machine. Usually I prefer a twin needle straight stitch to reinforce the hem with the kiddos.Briefly looking at other posts, elastic that you can sew through is 'knit' elastic. This is the type the sell for use with swimsuits, but comes in all sorts of widths. If you ever make a swimsuit you know you have to sew straight through the elastic while slightly pulling the elastic. Knit elastic is the only thing that holds up! Don't try to sew through non-roll elastic, it will kill the stretch  Although I have used it in desparate mode, but the key is to barely catch the edge with a very small zig-zag stitch. Even when I sew the knit I am generally using a zig-zag on most items, not sewing straight through the elastic down the center. But of course when it comes to sewing, each item may have a special circumstance  Like when I using knit elastic in the Fold-over for binding necklines & armholes
LauraM
SW Indiana If everyone cared and nobody cried; If everyone loved and nobody lied; If everyone shared and swallowed their pride; Then we'd see the day when nobody died --'If Everyone Cared' by Nickelback |
User: LauraM62
Member since: 08-10-2003 Total posts: 246 
|
From: chiachia
Date: 10-13-2005, 11:11 AM (21 of 26)
|
Thanks Raeven for your links. They are great! And thanks Pam for being so patient with me. I appreciate your explanations. Laura, may I ask what is this steam-a-seam thing? I went to the shop and they said they dont know what it is? We have a Spotlight in town, do you think I can find it there? btw, sounds like it does not have to be removed? thanks everyone! angeline |
User: chiachia
Member since: 10-10-2005 Total posts: 21
|
From: LauraM62
Date: 10-13-2005, 02:17 PM (22 of 26)
|
Thanks Raeven for your links. They are great! And thanks Pam for being so patient with me. I appreciate your explanations. Laura, may I ask what is this steam-a-seam thing? I went to the shop and they said they dont know what it is? We have a Spotlight in town, do you think I can find it there? btw, sounds like it does not have to be removed? thanks everyone! angeline Steam-A-Seam = http://www.warmcompany.com/lsaspage.html I personally buy the Lite Steam-a-Seam 2 in 1/2" width, 20 yard rolls. I also use their steam-a-seam fusible web but for applique The rolls are great for using on hems. Works similar to interfacing the hemline as many sewing educators talk about, but allows me to press & ease before stitching, kind of basting with my fingers Since you said you went to Spotlight, I know you are an Aussie, so I'm not sure where our Aussie sewing buddies purchase their product?
LauraM
SW Indiana If everyone cared and nobody cried; If everyone loved and nobody lied; If everyone shared and swallowed their pride; Then we'd see the day when nobody died --'If Everyone Cared' by Nickelback |
User: LauraM62
Member since: 08-10-2003 Total posts: 246
|
From: paroper
Date: 10-13-2005, 02:24 PM (23 of 26)
|
Chiachia, I thought you were in Singapore. Where are you?
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: chiachia
Date: 10-14-2005, 04:51 AM (24 of 26)
|
oh, I'm from hot sunny Singapore! Yes, we do have a Spotlight here, infact that's porbably the biggest sewing supply store that I know of. The ones in our neighbourhoods are rather small and dont carry such "fancy" things. angeline |
User: chiachia
Member since: 10-10-2005 Total posts: 21
|
From: LauraM62
Date: 10-14-2005, 05:31 AM (25 of 26)
|
oh, I'm from hot sunny Singapore! Yes, we do have a Spotlight here, infact that's porbably the biggest sewing supply store that I know of. The ones in our neighbourhoods are rather small and dont carry such "fancy" things. angeline Spotlight is also big in Australia, so my bad assumption after talking to so many sewing people from Australia, I appologize with the assumption you were from there too  But on the Steam-A-Seam, I do know that the Australia Spotlight store do carry it. As a matter of fact it was an Aussie sewer that told me about it. Now whether the Singpore store did was another story? But I do know that Spotlight in other areas does.LauraM SW Indiana LauraM
SW Indiana If everyone cared and nobody cried; If everyone loved and nobody lied; If everyone shared and swallowed their pride; Then we'd see the day when nobody died --'If Everyone Cared' by Nickelback |
User: LauraM62
Member since: 08-10-2003 Total posts: 246
|
From: chiachia
Date: 10-14-2005, 05:47 AM (26 of 26)
|
No worries, Laura. I will go check out the steam-a-seam at Spotlight. thanks angeline |
User: chiachia
Member since: 10-10-2005 Total posts: 21
|
Visit Sew What’s Up for the latest sewing and quilting tips and discussions.
This page was originally located on Sew What’s New (www.sew-whats-new.com) at http://www.sew-whats-new.com/vb/archive/index.php/t-17070.html
Sew What’s Up is hosted by ZenSoft