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This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was retired in August 2007. It is being provided by “Sew What’s Up,” which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: chiachia
Date: 10-13-2005, 05:23 AM (1 of 17)
hello everyone!

I have just started sewing a circle skirt with satin. am sewing the side seams over and over, each time i hold it up to wear, the sides look like they are all gathered, as if someone is pulling it at the side. It looks so ugly, esp with the bottom of the two sides sticking out. :coffee: how can i prevent this from happening?

thanks

angeline
User: chiachia
Member since: 10-10-2005
Total posts: 21
From: LauraM62
Date: 10-13-2005, 08:56 AM (2 of 17)
Before you start sewing always use scraps to check your tensions. The possiblity maybe that your tensions may not be correct. But that being said, I know you are making circle skirts :wink: therefore the side seams are going to be on the bias. Sometimes when working with certain fabrics, and in certain directions it might me necessary to use a narrow zig-zag stitch. I made a bias cut organza dress for my #2 dd, on the side seams I followed expert advice from books. I used the narrow zig-zag, then I also used tissue paper between the fabric & the feed dogs (this kept the feed dogs from pulling the fabric too much, help keep my fabric more even feeding). After I finished sewing of course the tissue paper pulled right off, the seam were pucker free. Also make sure when using slippery fabric that you use your hands to guide the fabric, both front & back, you may even have to keep a slight tension on the fabric. Ask me how I know beside the organza dress, just finished a Cinderella costume for #3 dd in some of the $2.99 poly satin for JoAnn's. The quality of the fabric really plays into the quality of the stitch, it was so much easier with the high quality fabric I used on #2 dd's dress versus the costume fabric I bought :whacky: But at least the costume is just for one night then play box! The dress for #2 dd was wedding & middle school grad night! :bluesmile
LauraM
SW Indiana

If everyone cared and nobody cried; If everyone loved and nobody lied; If everyone shared and swallowed their pride; Then we'd see the day when nobody died --'If Everyone Cared' by Nickelback
User: LauraM62
Member since: 08-10-2003
Total posts: 246
From: mommydionne
Date: 10-13-2005, 09:04 AM (3 of 17)
Slowly... also check your needle, satin usually requires a smaller needle (70) and finer thread IF you can find it. I would also experiment with tension as Laura mentioned and the tissue paper trick works well too.
Part of the problem may be that with a circle skirt your side seams may be on the bias so hanging your cut, unsewn peices to let the seamlines "grow" may help with puckering.
good luck!
Jeanette
User: mommydionne
Member since: 01-08-2004
Total posts: 838
From: chiachia
Date: 10-13-2005, 11:04 AM (4 of 17)
thanks Jeneatte and Laura

two quick questions;
1. what is the tissue paper you are talking about?
2. do you mean i hang the pieces of fabric first before sewing the side seams?

i used ALOT of pins to hold the two pieces together to prevent them from slipping away. but will definitely try the narrow zigzag stitch which you mention.

thanks!
User: chiachia
Member since: 10-10-2005
Total posts: 21
From: chiachia
Date: 10-13-2005, 11:14 AM (5 of 17)
another question about tension.

i have tried looking into the machine manual but dont understand. :bang: If the tension is too tight, means I have to loosen it right? Do I use a bigger or smaller number to loosen? I am currently using tension 4 at the moment.

angeline
User: chiachia
Member since: 10-10-2005
Total posts: 21
From: LauraM62
Date: 10-13-2005, 12:18 PM (6 of 17)
thanks Jeneatte and Laura

two quick questions;
1. what is the tissue paper you are talking about?
2. do you mean i hang the pieces of fabric first before sewing the side seams?

i used ALOT of pins to hold the two pieces together to prevent them from slipping away. but will definitely try the narrow zigzag stitch which you mention.

thanks!
Just plain old tissue paper, like they use to put in packages and/or gift bags, something so simple! It is thin, but just holds back those feed dogs enough. She is talking about hanging the skirt up, letting the fabric rest and/or drape since the sides are on the bias. Although I didn't mention it, I noticed someone else did, do check the needle. I didn't have enough coffee :coffee: this morning. You generally need a size 9 or 10 needle for these types of fabrics. Sometimes larger needles will cause problems too, as will the thread. Suggested type threads are embroidery silk threads, cottons for satin fabric. At least you picked some interesting fabric to learn with :wink: allot of people would have picked cottons to start their sewing experiences, you must be a gusto type person :up:
LauraM
SW Indiana

If everyone cared and nobody cried; If everyone loved and nobody lied; If everyone shared and swallowed their pride; Then we'd see the day when nobody died --'If Everyone Cared' by Nickelback
User: LauraM62
Member since: 08-10-2003
Total posts: 246
From: LauraM62
Date: 10-13-2005, 12:19 PM (7 of 17)
another question about tension.

i have tried looking into the machine manual but dont understand. :bang: If the tension is too tight, means I have to loosen it right? Do I use a bigger or smaller number to loosen? I am currently using tension 4 at the moment.

angeline
Smaller the number is usually looser tension ....
LauraM
SW Indiana

If everyone cared and nobody cried; If everyone loved and nobody lied; If everyone shared and swallowed their pride; Then we'd see the day when nobody died --'If Everyone Cared' by Nickelback
User: LauraM62
Member since: 08-10-2003
Total posts: 246
From: bridesmom
Date: 10-13-2005, 03:10 PM (8 of 17)
I buy white tissue paper from the dollar store in bags from the wrapping paper section and use that when sewing stuff like satin, tulle, rubberized, buttonholes. Makes it much easier for the fabric to feed. When you change your tension, you may also have to change your bobbin tension. I find the best way is to keep some of the long scraps and do some test seams until I find the tension that works best, especially when using the serger. Are you finishing off your seams with a zigzag or serging cause it will fray horribly. I do my satin fabric in french seams, nice finish and I know it won't fray that way, nice secure seam then too.
Laura
Tickled pink with my Innovis 4000D
User: bridesmom
Member since: 01-21-2004
Total posts: 2026
From: chiachia
Date: 10-14-2005, 05:49 AM (9 of 17)
At least you picked some interesting fabric to learn with :wink: allot of people would have picked cottons to start their sewing experiences, you must be a gusto type person :up:

just plain ignorant! didnt know that it was so difficult to "control" satin! hahaha!

anyway will try all the tips given by all of you again later. Thanks a million!

angeline
User: chiachia
Member since: 10-10-2005
Total posts: 21
From: LauraM62
Date: 10-14-2005, 09:03 AM (10 of 17)
just plain ignorant! didnt know that it was so difficult to "control" satin! hahaha!

anyway will try all the tips given by all of you again later. Thanks a million!

angeline

No not ignorant Angeline, not ever! The best way to learn is to jump in many times, so keep jumping in, you'll learn so much! Just remember that everything has so much learning potential :bg:
LauraM
SW Indiana

If everyone cared and nobody cried; If everyone loved and nobody lied; If everyone shared and swallowed their pride; Then we'd see the day when nobody died --'If Everyone Cared' by Nickelback
User: LauraM62
Member since: 08-10-2003
Total posts: 246
From: ninifav
Date: 10-14-2005, 01:45 PM (11 of 17)
Angeline, the best way for me to sew on satin is with duct tape across my mouth so that I don't say any very un-ladylike words...lol...lol...Glad to read about the tissue paper hints, though....Paula
User: ninifav
Member since: 09-06-2004
Total posts: 204
From: plrlegal
Date: 10-14-2005, 01:52 PM (12 of 17)
chiachia try and be sure you're not pulling on the satin when feeding it through your machine as this will cause a pulling and gathering of the finished seams. Also, if your presser foot has an adjustment, you might need to adjust to a lighter pressure on the presser foot while sewing the satin. My Pfaff adjusts automatically to different weights of fabric sewn on it. I prefer to use cotton or silk thread when sewing satin as polyester thread will stretch while being sewn and then relax back once the seam is finished which causes puckering and gathering in a seam. Another trick to sewing with polyester thread is to wind it slowly when filling a bobbin. I've read in quite a few articles that winding polyester fast onto a bobbin stretches it and then when it's sewn into a seam will relax and cause puckering and gathering.

Patsy
Patsy
User: plrlegal
Member since: 05-19-2001
Total posts: 318
From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 10-14-2005, 06:27 PM (13 of 17)
I have read this whole thread , I think, and no one has mentioned the first thing the County Agent told me when I called her for helpful hints on sewing satin.. She said always pin within the seam allowance, because the holes stay in the satin, and do not go away..She said use silk pins because they make smaller holes than regular pins, too..Also when pressing your seams put a piece of kraft paper under the seam allowance when pressing the seams open.. (that way, it will not have a mark on the right side.)(kraft paper is the same as a brown paper bag)..
Sew With Love
Libby
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002
Total posts: 2022
From: MariLynnTX
Date: 10-14-2005, 08:05 PM (14 of 17)
Two things about sewing with satin have not been mentioned, although all the tips I have read are very true. One thing is, be sure you are using not only small needles, but VERY sharp ones. Also, I do not pin the bias seams together, I use, ONLY in the seam allowance, the narrow sticky tape to hold the seams together while I stitch. This stuff is so useful. I put up hems by using this tape before I blindstitch. It will disappear with washing or dry-cleaning. And do not press the seam open on the ironing board. Use a tailor's ham or a seam roll so that the seam edges do not show through on the surface.Go slowly and carefully. I did a lot of satin when I was custom sewing wedding clothes and costumes. I made all my own when I was a professional singer. :coffee2: MariLynntx
Life is a song...we give it harmony or dissonance.
User: MariLynnTX
Member since: 08-13-2001
Total posts: 256
From: paroper
Date: 10-14-2005, 10:22 PM (15 of 17)
Ok, my turn to jump in too. When sewing anything but particularly satin, if you are sewing on the bias (where the weave of the fabric is on an angle), sew with the grain, not against. In most cases this means sewing up from the hem so that you are not stretching the bias as you go. This is called DIRECTIONAL sewing. In the olden days (prior to the 1980's) the patterns would have arrows at the shoulders, at the bottom of the pattern, etc, to remind you to sew with the grain and what the grain was, not against. It also was at the neckline to keep us from sewing AROUND the neck and stretching out one side as we went up the other. It seems that as the years have gone on, many of the pattern companies have gotten away from the little hints that make our garments more finished (ok, I am grumbling...but it IS satin....now ninifav,where did you put that duct tape?)

I also really like the IBC glass head pins. They are very fine and very long. Although they run about $7 a box, they are very specialized. If you use them on "normal" fabrics, they fall out because they are so fine. I'd use about a size 65 or 70 sharp needle instead of a universal or ball needle which are both much duller and more likely to pull the fabric..
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: bridesmom
Date: 10-15-2005, 07:17 AM (16 of 17)
Again Pam you come up with more winners. You truely amaze me!! I never really understood what the little arrows were on some of my older patterns, now I understand why they make the 'staystitching' arrows go the way they do. That's what I love about this site, you always learn something new.
Laura
Tickled pink with my Innovis 4000D
User: bridesmom
Member since: 01-21-2004
Total posts: 2026
From: paroper
Date: 10-15-2005, 08:00 AM (17 of 17)
I might add, just for the record, those arrows also indicate the direction of cutting to prevent stretching.
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
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