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From: stitch2much
Date: 11-08-2005, 10:24 PM (1 of 18)
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Help ladies, I have a 2 piece knit suit but need to hem the skirt, I need to take 6" off. It is a straight skirt but the hem is one of those knit finishes, so I will need to cut and hem? How do I handle this since I know that knit runs!! Any ideas? And no I cannot take it up from the top because it has been finished during the knitting manufacture process. This is a very high end skirt and hate to ruin it. I have a posted a pic at Knit skirt (http://ca.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/<email address removed for privacy>/my_photos) Knit Skirt if anyone would like to see the existing hem. Please help as soon as you can, I am hoping to wear it a couple of weeks from now!! Edit/Delete Message |
User: stitch2much
Member since: 10-06-2005 Total posts: 22 |
From: Sewspecial
Date: 11-09-2005, 06:27 AM (2 of 18)
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You haven't shown us the hem side, however, looking at this from the front they have used a 4/5 thread industrial merrow machine to do the hem. I do this type of alteration all the time. I don't have a Serger that I can move the knife out of the way I use industrial machines.....I hope this helps its a 3 step process I use. I know your nervous because its a knit.. but it's not that delicate. Usually when I do this type of hem, the customer is only taking off 1 or 2 hem lengths....If its like two folds of a hem length I use my industrial merrow machine(serger) and follow right along the sewn hem. Then I use a two step process I sew one line of stiching at the top edge of the hem usually at one or one and a quarter inch, and one at the bottom edge of the serged stich ( approx 1/4") using the previous line of stiching as a guide. Good Luck Marie SewSpecialCo |
User: Sewspecial
Member since: 09-24-2004 Total posts: 30 |
From: Sewspecial
Date: 11-09-2005, 06:30 AM (3 of 18)
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You haven't shown us the hem side, however, looking at this from the front they have used a 4/5 thread industrial merrow machine to do the hem. I do this type of alteration all the time. I don't have a Serger that I can move the knife out of the way I use industrial machines.....I hope this helps its a 3 step process I use. I know your nervous because its a knit.. but it's not that delicate. Usually when I do this type of hem, the customer is only taking off 1 or 2 hem lengths....If its like two folds of a hem length I use my industrial merrow machine(serger) and follow right along the sewn hem. Then I use a two step process I sew one line of stiching at the top edge of the hem usually at one or one and a quarter inch, and one at the bottom edge of the serged stich ( approx 1/4") using the previous line of stiching as a guide. P.s. You can cut knits....try not to stretch it before you get it serged. It's not as delicate as a pair of panty hose Someone had to cut it and sew it to make it! Good Luck Marie SewSpecialCo |
User: Sewspecial
Member since: 09-24-2004 Total posts: 30 |
From: MaryW
Date: 11-09-2005, 07:30 AM (4 of 18)
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Would you interface the hem?
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542 
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From: DorothyL
Date: 11-09-2005, 07:56 AM (5 of 18)
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If you don't have a serger you can cut and fold it over twice so the raw edge is enclosed then use a double needle or even hand sew it. If it is really stretchy interfacing would help. I'd make it a narrow hem and would only fold under about 1/4 inch if it is bulky. A bit of bulk might help it hang better. But not too much. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: paroper
Date: 11-09-2005, 08:51 AM (6 of 18)
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If it happens to have an elastic waist, I"d take it up from the top and preserve the machine edge that it already has. If that is the case, I'd chalk mark the cutting line and then run a row of stitching on the skirt side of that line to stabilize the fabric. After that, I'd finish the edge with a serger or a zig zag edge and sew it down. If it has a zipper, I'd still look at the option to see if I could reset the zipper. You can't afford to have a six inch hem and I sure wouldn't try to hide it in the hem because the hem would be too bulky. The most hem that I would ever consider in any skirt (regardless of its fabric content) would be around 2 inches. Anthing else really is bulky and heavy and cheapens the skirt. You could (easily) run a row of stitching around the bottom within 3/4 of an inch of your new hemline, cut it off at 1 inch, fold the fabric in on itself and do a hand rolled hem with a sharp steam press (if the fabric isn't too heavy). If you have a good serger, you could just serge and hand or machine finish too...but nothing beats the factory finish if you can avoid messing it up. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: stitch2much
Date: 11-09-2005, 10:12 AM (7 of 18)
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I love this forum, you are all soooooo helpful. I haven't shown the back of the hem because there is nothing to see. It essentially looks the same as the front, it is knitting machine made (not sewing machine made) so that the skirt is the same thickness right to bottom edge (not even turned). This is why I was thinking that a bound cut edge and then turning the hem might be a good idea. It might also keep the hem flatter. This is not the average jersey skirt. It is cotton knit. And sorry I couldn't get a better picture (now I have an excuse to ask for a tripod for Christmas tee hee) I thought too that the bound hem which would consist of 2 passes of the sewing machine might reduce the possiblity of the knit stitches running. The top of the skirt is also knitting machine finished not sewing machine finished. this skirt shows no evidence of having been cut to be made. It looks to me that the skirt was made in one piece on a knitting machine in the facory starting with the hem (a finished edge) then up to the waist where the elastic was added and the knitting machine was used to encase the elastic. It is certainly well made in my opinion but not designed with alteration in mind. Hope this helps to clarify what I am dealing with here. While playing with it I think it needs a 2 to 3" turn back for the hem. It is a very long skirt and it will need that to give it stablity. I am thinking a double fold hem will be too thick. This is why I am trying to figure how to finish a cut edge without adding bulk or runs. Has anyone used lycra binding for this? I will spend some time on the weekend putting all of your input together into action. I am sure it will work out. Also there is no zipper..... phew. That would be a whole other issue. You are all so helpful. I sew way too much but there is always something new to stump me. That is why I am greatful for this forum and all of you devoted seamers out there. : ) |
User: stitch2much
Member since: 10-06-2005 Total posts: 22 |
From: paroper
Date: 11-09-2005, 10:20 AM (8 of 18)
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If it were me, I'd do it in the top in a heartbeat.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: stitch2much
Date: 11-09-2005, 12:04 PM (9 of 18)
The only seam is a back seam which has a long bottom slit, I will need to lower the slit if I try it from the top, since the sides of the slit are not hemmed either, just a flat machine knitted edge as well. So if you can imagine, when it was knit the piece was widened above the slit for the seam allowances, I do not have allowance on the slit edges to extend the seam. 
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User: stitch2much
Member since: 10-06-2005 Total posts: 22 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 11-09-2005, 05:17 PM (10 of 18)
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With that kind of finish on the hem already -- I think I'd go from the top too. Of course I usually wear a top that covers the waist line. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 11-10-2005, 01:12 PM (11 of 18)
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I read this in a hurry, so if I repeat someone, forgive me.. The way to cut a knit is to run two rows of machine stitches parallel and then cut between those 2 rows of stitches.. This keeps anything from ravelling..
Sew With Love
Libby |
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002 Total posts: 2022 
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From: DorothyL
Date: 11-11-2005, 06:50 AM (12 of 18)
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That's a good tip, Libby. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: Sancin
Date: 11-12-2005, 12:42 AM (13 of 18)
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As a very short person I have to shorten everything I buy. I think I can see the problem stitch2much has as I purchased a wool double knit suit several years ago. I shortened from the top to preserve the knitted hem. A faced hem on a knit changes the lovely hang that knits have and was one of the attractions of the suit to me. Further, if one shortens from the bottom when there is a pleat in the skirt the pleat (which seems also to be knit into place) becomes very distorted. An interesting aside regarding my suit.  I bought the suit from an after Christmas chain store sale while I was on holidays, but the skirt they had was the wrong size. They phoned around and found one in another store - which just happened to be in my fairly small city where I can rarely find anything! When I got home I purchased the skirt and really like the suit wearing it often. Then 3 weeks later there was a clear out and the reminder of skirts were virually being given away (odd colour but suited me very well). I bought up 5 of the skirts and made myself a longish tunic which I have worn with the skirt more than the suit jacket. I still have some of the lovely knit left and am trying to decide what to do with it. 
*~*~*~* Nancy*~*~*~* " I try to take one day at a time - but sometimes several days attack me at once."
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User: Sancin
Member since: 02-13-2005 Total posts: 895 
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From: paroper
Date: 11-12-2005, 08:54 AM (14 of 18)
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Eventhough there isn't a seam at the back kick pleat, I'd be inclined to put a very very tiny seam so that I could sew up that kick pleat enough to make it comfortable. I'd rather do that and have a seam in the back than try to take up that hem and really change the look of the garment.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: stitch2much
Date: 11-15-2005, 11:27 PM (15 of 18)
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Ok, I know it has been said before but you guys are the best. I tried all of my ideas and yours. The result is a "group effort" and I am very pleased. Taking up at the hem proved to be impossible. So I took up at the top. I ran two rows of stitching side by side (thanks Libby) on the second row I also attached a strip of lycra binding. Then I cut between the rows. Turned the lycra back for a hong kong binding. and then with a close colour thread, zigzaged over the lycra. I love it. Oh yeah and I lowered the back slit with a scant scant scant seam. The waist looks a little rippled in the pics but when I put it on I tend to fill it out. Check out the pics, I think I have took the scary out of this one. I did all of my experimentation without cutting. Then I just bit the bullet and did it. Paroper was right, taking up at the waist, glad I did, I would take it up in the waist again in a heatbeat. Band on outside (http://us.a1.yahoofs.com/users/435537c7z5e6ae033/f46a/__sr_/7ec1.jpg?phggreDBP2MfvxYz) Band on inside (http://us.a1.yahoofs.com/users/435537c7z5e6ae033/f46a/__sr_/6f76.jpg?phggreDBioBCnAyE) |
User: stitch2much
Member since: 10-06-2005 Total posts: 22 |
From: paroper
Date: 11-15-2005, 11:49 PM (16 of 18)
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I'm so glad you are pleased with the results.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 11-16-2005, 10:55 AM (17 of 18)
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Glad it turned out well. I remember many years ago having to shorten the skirt of a knit suit, and being scared to try it.. Luckily my Moms good friend was a master with fabric and thread.. (my inspiration) She sewed a new elastic band to the wrong side of the waistline , then row of staystitching at top and bottom of the elastic before she cut off the excess.. I even have to hem women's petite sizes.. I'm only 5 feet tall..(we won't say how wide) LOL
Sew With Love
Libby |
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002 Total posts: 2022
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From: stitch2much
Date: 11-18-2005, 01:15 AM (18 of 18)
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That's a great tip. Must remember it next time. Thanks all.
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User: stitch2much
Member since: 10-06-2005 Total posts: 22 |
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