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This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was retired in August 2007. It is being provided by “Sew What’s Up,” which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: Catalina
Date: 11-11-2005, 07:56 AM (1 of 8)
I am done with my fleece jacket and did not put the side pockets in as I don't like side pockets.
Now I feel I want pockets. I can just sew them on the top but then I thought
I could lik make a long bound buttonhole and do it that way but I don't want the bound buttonhole to stretch out. Do you think using interfacing would work allright.
Does anyone have any suggestions. Thanks
User: Catalina
Member since: 01-06-2005
Total posts: 119
From: DorothyL
Date: 11-11-2005, 10:06 AM (2 of 8)
Catalina,
These instructions came from an article on sewing with fleece. It was on the internet so I don't know who wrote it (I just copied the article because I am planning a fleece jacket). It may have come from a fleece manufacturer's web site.
I haven't tried it but I am thinking of bound button holes on my jacket.
The woman in the independent fabric shop I sometimes visit suggested I NOT do bound button holes -- she said they don't work out well so maybe you should test on scraps first. I plan to.
Let me know how it goes and how you do it.
Is your jacket lined? It seems welt pockets are best under a lining in any fabric.

Dorothy

'Bound' Buttonholes, that wear and wear:
Cut a square of fabric from the same fabric that your garment is made. A 2" square should do the trick for most buttonholes.
Draw a line in the middle of the square that is the same length as the button you are going to use.
Place the square where your buttonhole is to go using the line as a guide for your buttonhole placement.
Stitch a rectangle around the line staying 1/8" from the line
Right Sides Together
Cut through both layers on the line, then diagonally to corners.
Push square of fabric through to the wrong side.
On the right side, topstitch 1/4" around the opening.
On the wrong side, cut away any excess fabric.
You can use this technique for pockets, too!
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002
Total posts: 3883
From: Catalina
Date: 11-11-2005, 04:53 PM (3 of 8)
Dorothy,
I practiced this technique twice with scraps of fleece- it would work just don't know if I like the look of it on fleece. Seems to be gappy. I will try some more with scrap on interfacing. Thanks.
User: Catalina
Member since: 01-06-2005
Total posts: 119
From: DorothyL
Date: 11-11-2005, 05:10 PM (4 of 8)
It might not be so gappy with button holes that are smaller -- you think? Oh, I think I would use interfacing.
Dorothy
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002
Total posts: 3883
From: Sancin
Date: 11-12-2005, 02:06 AM (5 of 8)
What about making a bound buttonhole opening (and I would use a different fabric for the pocket itself to cut down on bulk) and then put a flap over it? Here again I would make the flap with only one (the outer) in fleece and the lining of the flap in a different fabric - perhaps the pocket fabric. Or no lining to the flap at all. If you look at commercially made jackets the pockets are often a slash with a zipper closing.
I make a lot of fleece coats and jackets (can't imagine going back to a heavier fabric) and try to not have two layers together as it is bulky and doesn't always lay flat. For that reason, I always put zippers in coats rather than overwrap with buttons.

For pockets in my dress coat, I used patch pockets, lined with lining material. I have worn the coat (to - 40 degree weather) for 6 years and had no stretching - or pilling. There is non pilling fleece available, pricy but worth it. If fleece does pill up I have found a sweater deballer, the kind you comb works to get a soft finish again.

Dorothy, if you are going to make bound button holes how about binding them with either ultrasuede or lycra material.
*~*~*~* Nancy*~*~*~* " I try to take one day at a time - but sometimes several days attack me at once."
User: Sancin
Member since: 02-13-2005
Total posts: 895
From: DorothyL
Date: 11-12-2005, 07:53 AM (6 of 8)
Nancy --
I was thinking of using something besides the fleece. How would a pants weight cotton do? It's a great match pattern wise.
Dorothy
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002
Total posts: 3883
From: Sancin
Date: 11-13-2005, 12:47 AM (7 of 8)
Pant weight cotton sounds good and is crisp, thus will help in keeping the fleece straight. You should reinforce the corners of the pockets as there is less give to the cotton.

When I told a southern salesperson I was making a coat and only lining it with lining material (closely woven) she thought it would be too cold - not so. The next coat I made was a looser fleece so I thought about a quilted interlining. As well as making me look like a polar bear it was simply not fluid enough and was too hot. :bluewink: The interlining is currently on my sewing table being placed in placemats. I love fleece as it is so forgiving and luxurious.

On my first coat I made a mistake of touching the iron to one shoulder seam when I was day dreaming and thinking I was sewing on wool. It melted, of course, and I was simply sick. :shock: I got the pile back up with a sweater ball remover gently raked over it for about 5 hours. Now I do not know what shoulder it was!

Have fun.
*~*~*~* Nancy*~*~*~* " I try to take one day at a time - but sometimes several days attack me at once."
User: Sancin
Member since: 02-13-2005
Total posts: 895
From: Catalina
Date: 11-13-2005, 05:15 AM (8 of 8)
Sancin-Thanks for the tip of a sweater deballer. I think if I do the bound buttonhole for a pockets I will sew a flap over it- but I think inserting zippers might be better and for the pockets a lining fabric. I don't want it to be bulky either. I also omitted the front buttons and put a zipper in instead. I am finding I really love sewing with fleece- and its a good fabric for MI. Theres 3 seasons here you can wear it!! and even in the summers in late evenings.
User: Catalina
Member since: 01-06-2005
Total posts: 119
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