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From: Pudge99
Date: 11-30-2005, 11:09 AM (1 of 13)
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I want to make one of these, but I am not sure how to lay out the fabric to cut the larger pieces like the back. The pattern I have is for straight grain. Could I cut the back and the sleeves on the straight and the front on the bias? Suggestions for options are always welcome. Thanks! http://www.aarons.com/prodimages/6101m.jpg Gina
Pictures of my successes and failures Pfaff 2040 Janome Mylock 134D Singer Futura CE-100 w/ Autopunch Husqvarna Viking 3D Sketch |
User: Pudge99
Member since: 10-30-2001 Total posts: 1375 |
From: paroper
Date: 11-30-2005, 01:01 PM (2 of 13)
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Cute blouse. The collar and cuffs are cut on the straight of grain. The sleeves and band are on cross grain and the front and probably the back are on the bias. If it were my blouse, I would cut the back like the front and put a seam down the middle. Take a protractor to the blouse pattern and draw a line at a 45 degree angle from the front (and back if you wish) grain arrow. Draw it long enough that you can get a good measurment. That becomes your new grain line. If you need to do so, you can draw a 90 degree angle on the sleeves so you can get those straight too. Because of the lay of the sleeves, you may do better to open up your fabric, match the selvages on both sides and then cut your fabric rather than try to position it with the fabirc in the normal folded position. You may be able to lay the sleeves and the blouse pieces easier that way. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Pudge99
Date: 11-30-2005, 05:06 PM (3 of 13)
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Thanks Pam! The blouse I want to make isn't exactly like this one but I wanted a picture of one with the V design in front. The one I am making has a deep V neckline so I was thinking I might line up the edge of the neckline with the lines in the shirt. My sleeves are going to be 3/4 length. So you think I should split the back? I hadn't thought of that. I am hoping to get this one done by the end of next week. If I do I will post a picture. Otherwise I will be too busy with Christmas to finish it up before the first of the year. Gina
Pictures of my successes and failures Pfaff 2040 Janome Mylock 134D Singer Futura CE-100 w/ Autopunch Husqvarna Viking 3D Sketch |
User: Pudge99
Member since: 10-30-2001 Total posts: 1375 |
From: paroper
Date: 11-30-2005, 05:57 PM (4 of 13)
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I would split the back so that you have the same effect there as the front otherwise, you probably won't be able to match the stripes and it might look a little odd. For the sake of making it hang right which also equates to feeling right, I'd stay with the full bias front. It wouldn't look as wrong if the neckline didn't match (I think that is optional) but if you've ever seen a blouse that just didn't quite look right or feel right and you couldn't quite figure out why? It probably was not on the true straight of grain or bias. It will effect everything about the blouse, the way the sleeves fit, everything. (At least that is my experience.) pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: LauraM62
Date: 12-02-2005, 06:53 AM (5 of 13)
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I made something similar last year, copied my teen dd's shirt that I liked! I used my pattern software for the blouse. For the layout, the front on the bias yes. The back I didn't do a seam in the back, as her RTW didn't have a seam in the back, and the back wasn't on the bias, just the front of the shirt. Make sure you do sew-on button plackets on-grain. I did a flounce on my sleeve finish, again for a copy of the RTW I was doing.
LauraM
SW Indiana If everyone cared and nobody cried; If everyone loved and nobody lied; If everyone shared and swallowed their pride; Then we'd see the day when nobody died --'If Everyone Cared' by Nickelback |
User: LauraM62
Member since: 08-10-2003 Total posts: 246 
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From: Pudge99
Date: 12-05-2005, 01:19 PM (6 of 13)
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OK. I have my pattern pieces all cut out but before I go on to cut the fabric I have a few questions. Here is the pattern I have.New Look 6407 (http://www.habithat.co.uk/product_info.php/products_id/7474) It has a facing. Will this be a problem with the bias cut? Should I eliminate the facing and make a placket? Just not sure what I should do. I would go look for a pattern with a placket but I had a hard enough time finding this one. Gina
Pictures of my successes and failures Pfaff 2040 Janome Mylock 134D Singer Futura CE-100 w/ Autopunch Husqvarna Viking 3D Sketch |
User: Pudge99
Member since: 10-30-2001 Total posts: 1375 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 12-05-2005, 02:15 PM (7 of 13)
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Is that pattern top stitched so it looks like a placket? Without the placket you won't get that look on the other shirt where the stripes are going across the grain. That would look really cool on the neckline of the New Look pattern you have. Maybe you could cut the facing so the stripes are that way and bring it to the outside rather than inside. That would look really good. Just finish the edge of your facing -- usually by turning it under -- sew the facing right side to the wrong side of the front and turn it to the outside so the right side is out then topstitch it down -- or you could do a blind stitch by hand for a different look. You can put piping under it or finish the edge of the facing with something fancy if you like. Just a thought Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: Pudge99
Date: 12-05-2005, 02:22 PM (8 of 13)
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Dorothy, Interesting idea. I might go with that, but keep the suggestions coming everyone. I love how there is always someone here with an answer to my problems. Gina
Pictures of my successes and failures Pfaff 2040 Janome Mylock 134D Singer Futura CE-100 w/ Autopunch Husqvarna Viking 3D Sketch |
User: Pudge99
Member since: 10-30-2001 Total posts: 1375 |
From: LauraM62
Date: 12-05-2005, 03:45 PM (9 of 13)
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Gina - My 2 cents - I have made New Look 6407 - a few times - along with my bias cut rtw knock off. And I would change 6407 to a sew on button placket if you are going to use it. I think that without changing it you won't have the look you wanted, plus when you have those button holes & placket on the bias you have more issues & problems sometimes with those wrinkles. I really love New Look 6407, used straight woven fabrics & stretch cottons!
LauraM
SW Indiana If everyone cared and nobody cried; If everyone loved and nobody lied; If everyone shared and swallowed their pride; Then we'd see the day when nobody died --'If Everyone Cared' by Nickelback |
User: LauraM62
Member since: 08-10-2003 Total posts: 246
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From: paroper
Date: 12-05-2005, 08:07 PM (10 of 13)
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I don't know that I would put vertical darts in it. I think that will confuse the design because it will change the way the stripes look in the front. I don't think that you'll enjoy trying to get them together either (could be wrong on that.) I also agree that you don't want the self-placket down the front. Buttonholes on the bias will stretch BIG TIME. Visually I think it will be better with the horizontal stripe placket too. I really like the pattern! pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: LauraM62
Date: 12-05-2005, 08:34 PM (11 of 13)
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I think Pam is right, and something I didn't think about. On the bias blouses I've done & the RTW we have the darts are hidden in either a gather within the center front at the button placket or it is a princess line. I should say especially since all the bias blouse we've made and or bought are striped.
LauraM
SW Indiana If everyone cared and nobody cried; If everyone loved and nobody lied; If everyone shared and swallowed their pride; Then we'd see the day when nobody died --'If Everyone Cared' by Nickelback |
User: LauraM62
Member since: 08-10-2003 Total posts: 246
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From: Pudge99
Date: 12-06-2005, 09:21 AM (12 of 13)
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Laura, I have looked all over this pattern. Are there any measurments given to know what size to make? All I could find was the bust measurment on the back and boy was that wrong. I measured at an 18. I cut out a 20 to give me room to move. I have everything except the collar and facing/placket done and it is way too small. Going to finish it anyway for the practice. If I were going to leave out the vertical darts (next time) would I have to cut it out differently? Thanks everybody! You're all such great help! Gina
Pictures of my successes and failures Pfaff 2040 Janome Mylock 134D Singer Futura CE-100 w/ Autopunch Husqvarna Viking 3D Sketch |
User: Pudge99
Member since: 10-30-2001 Total posts: 1375 |
From: paroper
Date: 12-06-2005, 07:28 PM (13 of 13)
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There are two things you can do. You can swing those darts more to the upper dart if you want to do that, but what I would do is just leave them out. The only difference is that the blouse wouldn't be quite as fitted. Usually those darts are not very large anyway. Then I would just adjust the hemline so that it is smooth. They just fold and cut the pattern to make the bottom dart so that it isn't "skimpy" at the bottom anyway...it isn't a big deal.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
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