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From: Teri
Date: 01-11-2006, 10:28 PM (1 of 4)
I have a customer with a large bust, small shoulders and waist, who wants a scoop neck top in a modified scrub style. I have made a top she really likes, but I'm unhappy with the neckline gapping. If I curve the armhole a bit more above the bust line will that pull in the neckline closer to the body?  Thanks Teri
"Where are we going, and why am I in this basket?" |
User: Teri
Member since: 09-14-2005 Total posts: 66 
|
From: paroper
Date: 01-11-2006, 11:25 PM (2 of 4)
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Most full bust adjustments are a slit across the mid point of the natural bustline of the pattern and then an adjustment in the dart (or in some cases, the addition of dart from the sides, sometimes from another angle). The easiest way is to buy the pattern to fit the shoulders and then make the adjustment to the bustline. Personally, I think that the shoulder adjustments are harder than the bust adjustments. That adjustment can be several inches, depending upon the cup size of the patron. I've been known to make the shell of the top up in gingham (to help me keep a straight of grain) basting the seams including the darts, then actually split the gingham and add strips of fabric to hold the changes. Many of good full-busted friends are also square shouldered. If that is the problem, a pie shaped adjustment from the neck pointing to the arm hole could be in order (just a guess). It can be difficult to get the extra fullness out once the garment has been made. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Teri
Date: 01-14-2006, 08:03 AM (3 of 4)
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Hi Pam, Thanks for the suggestions, I did remove a wedge from the shoulders and cut into the arm scyre and this removed most of the gap. I had made a muslin and that helped, I still need to cut a bit more into the arm scyre a little lower this time to remove the rest. The woman I am sewing for is a low busted 38DD with small shoulders so I instead of a regular scrub top I went with a princess seamed top, I suppose I could put darts in furture tops, but didn't want to accentuate the low bust. Back to the drawing board! Teri Teri
"Where are we going, and why am I in this basket?" |
User: Teri
Member since: 09-14-2005 Total posts: 66
|
From: paroper
Date: 01-14-2006, 09:15 AM (4 of 4)
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Actually, I think that the princess style is much easier to adjust to a full bust. You just slash across the bustline and "v" the side seam. Princess garments have the dart hidden in the front seam, part above the bust part below. They split the dart between the two seams and hide it . In this case, you are just using that hidden dart to hide your seam too. By her bust being full, you may actually be able to also hide some of the extra length too because you can slash high to move the bust. Very interesting. I sill stay with the idea to buy for the shoulders to get the best fit. There is a very good book out called "Vogue Fitting", Harper and Row, 1984 that I've used for years. It speaks to general changes. There are several others that might help. One in particular, "Sewing for Plus Sizes" (Design, Fit and Construction for Ample Apparal) by Barbara Deckert, The Taunton Press, 1999 is very good for your particular type of problem. There is a good book by Judith Rashand that explains changes in the pattern and is a extensive study of "why and where" those changes should be made, also speaks to different designs and ideas to hide body flaws and enhance its features. It is called "fabulous Fit", Fairchild Publications, New York, 1994. I have another book but I can't locate it at the moment. It is called something like "fitting for REAL PEOPLE" or perhaps "Garments for Real People", it is quite good but I have pulled it from my library for something and can't locate it right now. The first two of these books are excellent for your fitting needs. You might want to also look into a book on designing flat patterns at some point because that would teach you how to analyze the garment to determine where the problem is. You can probably locate a very old flat pattern book. The one I use is from my college course in 1970 and has mini slopers in the back so that you can play paper dolls to design your garments. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
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