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From: Bustermcfe
Date: 01-19-2006, 06:16 PM (1 of 6)
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Hello everyone, just joined the list and am very happy to find it. I love to sew clothing and am frustrated with the lapel on a suit type jacket. The collar is stitched to the garment, then the undercollar is stitched to the facing. Now here's what I can't get right The two are then stitched right sides together, around the outside of the collar, then pivot and onto the lapels. Sounds easy, looks easy on the instructions, but MAN I cannot make it look right. THere is either a small gap at the pivot area or they don't align. Does anyone have suggestions . Thanks in advance, Sandy in PA 
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User: Bustermcfe
Member since: 01-19-2006 Total posts: 7 |
From: MaryW
Date: 01-19-2006, 06:24 PM (2 of 6)
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Hi and welcome to Sew Whats New. Seems to me I heard a tip about that very problem. I think it has to be a stitch or two away from what looks right. That way when you turn, the fabric has its space. Make sense?? Probably not. Anyone else have an answer? MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542 
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From: paroper
Date: 01-20-2006, 08:18 AM (3 of 6)
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I've been trying to picture the problem. Did you sew the collars all the way across or did you leave them open 5/8 at the pivot? If you did, was your 5/8 exact? The upper collar quite often is a little larger than the undercollar but there should be little or no difference when you get to the pivot. The upper collar is larger to allow for a roll when it is turned. If the collar were somehow stretched in sewing or the cut wasn't correct on either collar, you would certainly have problems here. It is possible if you interfaced one and not the other (which the pattern would generally tell you to do), you might have stretched the non-interfaced collar which would give you fits right now. The easy way is to sew you upper collar to the facings, undercollar to the garment, sewing to exactly 5/8 inch of the edge. Clip to the seamline on both pieces so that you'll be able to swing them out of the way. Press the seams open and trim the curves. Then, when you go to sew the upper collar/facings to the jacket, you sew around to the 5/8 inch, pivot and continue, repeating on the other side. OH I KNOW WHAT THE PROBLEM COULD BE....do you have one or both of the collars on UPSIDE DOWN???? The part that goes to the outside edge is straight or angled outward on the corners. The part that goes to the jacket is cut at a small angle upward. The point of the angle goes near the shoulder seam. When you go to sew them on the garment, they look upside down. This is one of those times when you really need to watch for and match the notches. The place you would first notice the problem is right now, when you are attaching the collars to each other. Although you may not have done this, it is something that I have done when I wasn't "thinking". Give us a little more feed back if this doesn't solve your problem and we'll see what we can figure out. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Bustermcfe
Date: 01-20-2006, 08:59 AM (4 of 6)
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Thank you for the quick responses. I pinned everything and the collar was upside down, I am spatially challenged. It looks okay now and I can breathe. Thank you again. Sandy in PA |
User: Bustermcfe
Member since: 01-19-2006 Total posts: 7 |
From: paroper
Date: 01-20-2006, 09:05 AM (5 of 6)
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Oh, I'm soooo glad that's all!!! (Relief). I would have answered you sooner but I was thinking this through all night.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Bustermcfe
Date: 01-20-2006, 10:25 AM (6 of 6)
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After putting the collar on the RIGHT way, and using your tip to stop 2 stitches before and after the pivot, the collar looks great! After pressing, I am soooo happy with it. You all are great. Sandy in PA |
User: Bustermcfe
Member since: 01-19-2006 Total posts: 7 |
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