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This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was retired in August 2007. It is being provided by “Sew What’s Up,” which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: misty60820
Date: 01-22-2006, 11:33 AM (1 of 3)
Hello all!! I am new to the world of sewing and I finished two dresses but I have a question that has been really bugging me. I am currently working with newlook pattern 6459 and on the layout page they have all of the pieces on the wrong side and one piece on the right side. My question is this... will I be cutting out all of the pieces the same way or will I have to pin the piece that is meant to be on the right side the wrong way? I wish I could scan a picture of this up so that it makes more sense. I am still in shock that I finished two dresses from this company but I want to make sure that I am doing everything right because this really confuses me.
User: misty60820
Member since: 11-22-2005
Total posts: 23
From: paroper
Date: 01-22-2006, 01:09 PM (2 of 3)
There are two different ways to interpret your post. One is that the pieces are turned over on the cutting directions. If that is the problem, it is no problem. Patterns are all made so that you can pin them together, pin the darts together and fit it against one side of your body while still reading all the pattern markings on the outside. Some people do this to check fittings. Sometimes when the pattern company computer starts to lay out the pieces, it finds that to get the best fit on the fabric, some or all pieces must be laid upside down. On most patterns layouts, the wrong side is shaded (just to save ink). If that is the way yours is done, it is nothing to worry about.

Now, there is another way to interpret your post. That is a little more complicated. There are fabrics that, when held up look the same, no matter which way you hold the fabric. There is no difference is shade or texture or print. These fabrics are considered to be WITHOUT NAP. There are other fabrics, like velvet and veleveteens, piles, furs, cordurory that when you run your hands over them, they have a different feel one way as opposed to the other, also, they may refect a different shade if held one direction as opposed to the other. These are WITH NAP. You also have one-way plaids where the plaid may have a color that is not repeated on the opposite side of the same square or you may have prints (these can be difficult to notice) where one of the designs only goes one direction. These are one-way fabrics and for the sake of cutting, are also laid as if they had a nap. All patterns should have a with nap layout UNLESS the back of the envelope says that they are not recommended for napped or one way design fabrics. In a nap layout, all pattern pieces must be laid one direction so that when they are made, the pattern will flow toward the feet. SOME patterns will also have a without nap layout. In this pattern layout, the pieces may and often do go different directions. You need to always be sure that the layout matches the type of fabric which you have. This sometimes takes a little study of the fabric.
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: misty60820
Date: 01-22-2006, 02:23 PM (3 of 3)
okay... I think I get it now :bg: I did two dresses the wrong way but they turned out okay. I think that what really saved me was the side seams on the dress. Thanks!!
User: misty60820
Member since: 11-22-2005
Total posts: 23
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