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This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was retired in August 2007. It is being provided by “Sew What’s Up,” which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: HeatherL
Date: 01-30-2006, 04:25 PM (1 of 8)
I am having a heck of a time putting buttonholes in a garment (pajama top). The fabric is flannel-backed satin. This is the second project I've made with this same fabric/problem, and I'm not looking forward to the tears and heartache again...

My machine (a Singer 9134) has a one-step buttonholer which USUALLY works fine. But on this fabric, it loops the thread on the underside or the thread breaks or the thread fails to engage in the fabric (so I just get a nice little line of holes) or a combination of the three.

This happens regardless of whether I have one layer of fabric, two layers of fabric, or two layers with interfacing fused to one layer (as in the case with the pajama top). It happens regardless of whether the flannel side or the satin side is facing the feed dogs.

I have tried layering tear-away stabilizer on either or both sides of the fabric, and the same with tissue paper, with little success.

I am all thumbs and then some when it comes to doing buttonholes the old-fashioned (hand-sewn) way. On the earlier project, I finally did two parallel lines of tight zigzag stitches and hand-bound the ends. It didn't look great, but it covered the holes and runners I'd made with the buttonholer and at least got the project finished.

Does anyone have any idea what might be causing this, and what steps I should take to troubleshoot? I have noticed that I need to adjust my tension depending on the stitch I use (looser for straight, tighter for zigzag). I'm using a size 14 needle and polyester blend thread.

Any insight would be most appreciated!
User: HeatherL
Member since: 03-13-2004
Total posts: 102
From: dmoses
Date: 01-30-2006, 05:54 PM (2 of 8)
Is the needle a 'sharp'? I think I would try a sharp needle, and maybe a little smaller size. Practice on some scraps until you get the look you like, and then make the buttonholes on the garment. Hope this helps.
Take care,
Donna
User: dmoses
Member since: 02-22-2002
Total posts: 964
From: mommydionne
Date: 01-30-2006, 07:05 PM (3 of 8)
Your needle size may be to big, I would pick a smaller size for satin. ie 80/12 or even a 70/10 if it is very fine.
Also try a longer stitch length for your zig zag. It may be that your stitches are too crowded for the fine fabric. Claire Schaeffer recommends using a finer thread for buttonholes in silk, (machine embroidery thread works well for me and there are so many colours to match with).
And if that doesn't work... Snaps?
Jeanette
User: mommydionne
Member since: 01-08-2004
Total posts: 838
From: paroper
Date: 01-30-2006, 10:05 PM (4 of 8)
I would try a microtex needle size 70/10. They are very sharp and work well on very fine fabrics. Or I'd use gripper tape on the facings and put buttons down the outside.
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: Chrysantha
Date: 01-30-2006, 11:27 PM (5 of 8)
Maybe the fabric is too slippery....try a solvy that STICKS with water and then washes off....
Chrys
User: Chrysantha
Member since: 09-06-2002
Total posts: 2414
From: shebear
Date: 01-31-2006, 12:20 AM (6 of 8)
The needle sounds like a good start but if that doesn't help then I would verify that it's really the fabric that's the problem. Try making a buttonhole on some medium weight cotton. If everything works then we know it has something to do with the fabric. It could be that it's not being moved properly by the feeddogs. Try increasing or decreasing the pressure on the presser foot. In the old days, mom used to use wax paper folded over the fabric to help thicker fabrics slide under the presserfoot.

I am assuming that you've been playing with the tension so have ruled that out. If not then, try moving tighter or looser. Trust me I've had this happen to me and I finally solved it by just making lots of samples with lots of adjustments in between.

When you figure it out, write it down somewhere. The back cover of your machine manual is a good place.
User: shebear
Member since: 01-30-2006
Total posts: 7
From: paroper
Date: 01-31-2006, 02:15 AM (7 of 8)
Did you interface your button holes? That would make a huge difference.
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: HeatherL
Date: 02-06-2006, 02:09 PM (8 of 8)
I did it!

I found a size 11 sharp in my box, and that plus a *slight* loosening of the tension did the trick. Out of 7 buttonholes, I only had to rip out and re-do one. Considering the heartache I went through last time, this seems like a miracle. Thanks so much for your ideas and suggestions, ladies!!
User: HeatherL
Member since: 03-13-2004
Total posts: 102
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