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From: dyna
Date: 01-31-2006, 05:23 PM (1 of 5)
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I've been sewing for many years and still have a problem with my jackets not fitting properly. When I stand still they look great but when I move my arms forward the sleeves pull just above the elbow and across the back. I don't know if I need to make the back bigger or the sleeves wider. Maybe I need to raise the armholes??? Any suggestions anyone? Thanks 
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User: dyna
Member since: 11-08-2004 Total posts: 21 |
From: paroper
Date: 02-01-2006, 11:34 AM (2 of 5)
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It sounds like you need to broaden the back or the sleeve. The sleeve is easier but you are going to have to decide if that is really where you need it. You can just slash down the middle of the sleeve to widen the top of the sleeve. You have to make adjustments in the jacket to accomidate the additional amount in the sleeve (easiest if the sleeve has a gathered cap). Sometimes you can lower the arm seam a bit, BUT if the sleeve, when at rest properly is fitting your arm, the width needs to be added in the back of the jacket. There is a good chance that is where you need it. When I've done jackets for the drum majors at school, this is always where I add it. The easiest way to add the fullness to the back is to slash downward from the center of the back shoulder and over to the sleeve hole. Pivot to add the fullness which can be removed at the should seam with a dart downward to take care of the extra fullness at the shoulder seam. When you pivot the design, your shoulder will drop down toward the seam and it wil stick out. You will need to realign the shoulder seam with the seamline coming from the neck. The sleeve fullness will realign when you put the dart into place. To acomidate the top of the dart, before cutting off excess paper from the change, fold the dart, and lay it down, trim the top of the pattern. You will have the little extra triangle at the top of the dart to be cut around with your garment. Be sure and make the adjustments to the lining pattern too. Be sure and test your changes on some ugly or cheap fabric to make sure that everything fits right. You'll need to make up the front, back and sleeve to try it out. I don't do the whole 9 yards on a test piece. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: dyna
Date: 02-01-2006, 06:59 PM (3 of 5)
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Thanks Pam. I'll have to try to adjust the back. The other problem is that I usually have to take the jacket in at the sides or back because I have a small waist and if the jacket is too wide in the back it hangs away from my rear. I Just finished a jacket that fits quite well and it has the two part sleeves. These sleeves are noticably wider than other jackets and I don't have that pulling problem. I guess I'll just have to try a few things. |
User: dyna
Member since: 11-08-2004 Total posts: 21 |
From: paroper
Date: 02-01-2006, 08:13 PM (4 of 5)
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This adjustment will not effect the waist. Your dart should point toward the shoulder blade and the fullness should be only to about the middle or just below the middle of the sleeve...close to or just above the notch of the sleeve. The other thing that you see in 2 part sleeve is that the fullness at the elbow is more where you need it. Most single part sleeves that are straight have fullness underneath, not at the elbow unless they are darted. That does make some difference in the sleeve fit. You may just want to start using that basic sleeve pattern in your jackets. You can just adjust your pattern in the sleeve area to duplicate the opening in that pattern so it can be used. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: dyna
Date: 02-01-2006, 09:58 PM (5 of 5)
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Great Idea! Thanks again - Janice |
User: dyna
Member since: 11-08-2004 Total posts: 21 |
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