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From: Lise
Date: 02-06-2006, 08:34 AM (1 of 8)
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Does anybody understand all the numbers on needle packages? To make it simpler , I have a Bernina Deco 650 embroidery machine and don't know which needles to use for what. Does it depend on the fabric, the thread or the density of the design ? I get a few bird nests now and again and wonder where the problem lies. Apart altogether from embroidering I would still like to know how to "read" a needle package. Lise 
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User: Lise
Member since: 07-24-2000 Total posts: 231 
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From: MaryW
Date: 02-06-2006, 11:27 AM (2 of 8)
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Maybe this will help. http://www.sew-whats-new.com/culshaw/needleknowhow.shtml MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542 
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From: wghmch
Date: 02-06-2006, 11:32 AM (3 of 8)
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Lise, There is so much to know, I could only skim the surface here. You need to select the correct type of point for your fabric, of which there are many. Regarding sizes, the European 705H, US 15X1, and Japanese HAx1 are the same system. The specific needle size in the European metric system is the actual size of the needle, in that a size 100 needle is 1 mm in dia., a size 80 needle is .8 mm in dia., etc. The US sizes are just designations, but they are equivalent in that a 100=16, 80=12, etc. I will be glad to answer other specific questions as I am able. Bill Holman |
User: wghmch
Member since: 03-04-2003 Total posts: 249 |
From: paroper
Date: 02-06-2006, 11:47 AM (4 of 8)
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Most of the needles I use in embroidery are 70, 75 and 80. Much of my embroidery is on t's, clothing, some towels and sweatshirts. The needles I use most are more commonly used with medium to light weight garment sewing. They would also work well on bed linens and light weight curtain fabrics. There are people who say that embroidery should be done only with size 90 needles and many use titanium saying that they last longer. I haven't seen significant differences when I've used the titanium and they are more expensive. Most towels, sweats and denium should be done with size 90 needles because that is a heavier weight needle. The weight and density of designs coupled with the weight of the fabric would almost demand size 90. I prefer the sharps for embroidery. They penetrate well. I do keep some ball points and I will use them when doing knits, esp t-shirts. The univeral needles are a cross between the balls and sharps and I don't use them for embroidery. (I do use a lot of universal needles when sewing.) pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: wghmch
Date: 02-06-2006, 12:18 PM (5 of 8)
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Julie Culshaw's article is an excellent resource, Mary. I would just add one precaution that does not seem to be commonly understood, and that is about the so called "stretch needles" such as the Schmetz 705H-S or the Singer yellow band. These needles were first developed by Singer in the earlier days of knits. They had run into problems with many of their economy models skipping stitches with the newer knit fabrics. Rounded points were obviously needed, but that was not their only problem. On most higher end machines, the sewing hook can be adjusted very close to the needle, just as a looper must be in a serger. In some of these lower end machines, manufacturing costs were saved by eliminating the hook/needle adjustment. With soft knits, the fabric can rise a tiny bit with the needle, and as it does this, it reduces the friction between the fabric and the thread on the "back" of the needle, that causes the loop to form, which the hook picks up to make the stitch. As a result, if the hook is not VERY close to the needle, the stitch is dropped. On better machines, a good mechanic will fine tune the hook closer to the needle, but since this can't be done on many cheaper models, Singer "solved" the problem by making their ball point needle with a slightly offset blade, offset toward the hook. Fearing a loss of sales to the many people who found that the Singer Yellow Band helped more than the Schmetz ball points, Schmetz countered with the similar design of the 705H-S. However, now comes the problem. There is actually enough difference in these needles that you can see it by noticing where a standard needle passes through the throat plate and then watching a "stretch" version. The result is that, if you have a good quality machine which is properly tuned with the hook tight to the needle, the "stretch" needle will actually touch the hook, deflecting slightly as it passes. This will usually stitch just fine, but is not good for this vital part of your machine. Also, "stretch" needles should never be used in straight stitch machines or sergers. I don't believe that Singer even offers a ball point without the offset blade, but the standard Schmetz 705H Universal Point or the SUK ball point will work just fine in most better machines, with none of the potential problems that could be caused by the offset blades of the 705H-S or Singer Yellow Band. Bill Holman |
User: wghmch
Member since: 03-04-2003 Total posts: 249 |
From: paroper
Date: 02-06-2006, 12:26 PM (6 of 8)
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I had always wondered why the Q foot and needles worked better on the machines of the '70s but didn't seem necessary now. Thank you, Bill. I remember the early days of sewing those knits in the late 60's and early 70's until the Q feet came out. It was a mess. My teachers in high school AND college never allowed for mistakes on our seams. Waves, and other irregularities meant the seam had to be picked out with a pin (not a seam ripper). I sure did a lot of picking in those early days! My high school teacher used to take the seam, stretch it out, put it up to her glasses and look down it...then she'd say..."Look, about 4 inches down? That little wave to the right? RIP IT OUT."
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Lise
Date: 02-06-2006, 01:26 PM (7 of 8)
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Thank you everybody who wrote and you, Mary for pointing me to Julie's article. I"m not sure if I'm now more knowledgeable or more confused. Do you think there would be a chart somewhere that cross-references the different ways of classifying needles : the type of thing you can get for comparing the colours of different brands of thread. I really would like to hear opinions specifically addressed to needles for embroidery machines. My Deco 650 is giving me problems with "bird nests" and I have a feeling it may be my choice of needle. (Or it could be Janome thread - this is the first time I have used it. ) Lise
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User: Lise
Member since: 07-24-2000 Total posts: 231
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From: Tom Land
Date: 02-06-2006, 02:05 PM (8 of 8)
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I prefer to use the smallest needle I can get away with. The smaller the hole the better the stitch will end up looking. Embroidery or Top stitching needles will help because the larger eye allows the weaker embroidery thread to pass more freely. My teachers and wife swear by the new Titanium needles. Especially since the price has come down considerably, but I honestly cannot say I have noticed a difference in longivity over other good brand needles. The Deco, PE-150 family, White 3300, and Simplicity Embroid. machines tend to have a problem with the needlebar slowly working out of adjustment to the point that the hook begins to deflect the needle. This problem is accentuated if yellow band or stretch needles are used for the reasons Bill gave. A simple adjustment corrects this but it will come back. Routine service on these models is important. "Birdnesting" can be caused by a number of different things...needle, thread, threading, burrs on throat plate, etc... Whatever the problem it needs to be found before damage is done. Everytime you birdnest you risk the bobbincase spinning and being damaged by the needle. Have fun or don't do it, Tom
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User: Tom Land
Member since: 09-21-2005 Total posts: 514 |
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