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From: ohgal
Date: 02-07-2006, 02:40 PM (1 of 18)
I had a complete computer crash and just now getting back up to speed and finding all my lost bookmarks!  Hope this is the right section to ask my question. I have, uuuhhhhh put on a few pounds over the the last couple of years, and now find myself having to alter patterns. Keep in mind I haven't sewn clothing for myself in a number of years. And I must say, the patterns today seem to be much more confusing than they ever were before.  Anyway, what I am looking for is a list or information on the built in ease/measurements of patterns (in inches). It seems like when I take my body measurements and sew up my garment according to those measurements, it's either miles too big, or way too small! What gives with patterns these days????? I used to know all these things, but it seems I have forgotten more than I will ever know again.  If anyone can help me locate this info I will surely appreciate it. |
User: ohgal
Member since: 03-20-2005 Total posts: 14 |
From: paroper
Date: 02-07-2006, 09:35 PM (2 of 18)
|
I've posted this in another spot for you but this is a rather valuable chart to have so I'll post it here too. http://www.denverfabrics.com/pages/static/fabric.htm You must remember that the style of pattern and fabric used dictate the amount of ease. It is entirely that the same pattern made up in two different types of fabric will need more or less ease and fit entirely differently. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: emorrow
Date: 02-11-2006, 06:55 PM (3 of 18)
|
ohgal, I've altered patterns with some success (as long as they are simple patterns!). What I do is look at the pattern envelope and see that the bust (for example) is 40. Then I measure the pattern itself and see how many inches past 40 the pattern is. This is the design ease. Then I measure myself and add those extra inches and that tells me how much bigger I should make the pattern. So far this has worked for the usual patterns...Vogue, McCalls, etc. I've never tried Burda or some of those other patterns. Good luck! Ellen |
User: emorrow
Member since: 02-26-2005 Total posts: 13 |
From: LauraM62
Date: 02-12-2006, 07:12 AM (4 of 18)
|
Most of the time we only need 2"-3" of fit ease for example in the bust. When I draft a fitted shirt I generally use 2.5" of bust/hip ease, 1" waist ease. Then if you look at a pattern, determine what they have for measurements for that size, actually measure the bust line (for example), say they have 6" beyond the the measurement, they have the 2"-3" fit ease, plus 4"-6" design ease. Ease is a funny culprit, it plays many different levels, depends on design, fabric, comfort levels, etc. For instance a woven fabric needs more ease, where a knit fabric needs far less, then a lycra based fabric can even go into negative ease. I like Sandra Betzina's Books 'Fast Fit' & 'Power Sewing' for info on ease levels, she has charts in both books. She covers info like thinking about 'walking ease' beyond 'fit ease' plus 'design ease' then talks about from fitted to loose fit.
LauraM
SW Indiana If everyone cared and nobody cried; If everyone loved and nobody lied; If everyone shared and swallowed their pride; Then we'd see the day when nobody died --'If Everyone Cared' by Nickelback |
User: LauraM62
Member since: 08-10-2003 Total posts: 246 
|
From: reddeviltj
Date: 04-10-2006, 11:06 AM (5 of 18)
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I'm new to this group and did a search to find all of you because of the experience I had yesterday. I have a BA in Fashion Design and have been sewing for years. I used to make all of my clothes until I moved a couple times and everything was all confused. Now, my machines are back in action. So, I finished a pair of pants, size 8, went to try them on and couldn't get them much past my knees. So, I got the envelope out, read the measurements and saw that I should be making a size 16. Right. Now, the jeans I had on at the time are a size 6. The ready-to-wear pants that I always buy are an 8 no matter where I shop. I have another pattern by Butterick that fits just fine in a size 8. I'm confused - 2 patterns, same person, same pattern company. |
User: reddeviltj
Member since: 04-10-2006 Total posts: 4 |
From: paroper
Date: 04-10-2006, 11:28 AM (6 of 18)
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Some of it has to do with the cut of the pants, as some are cut to be very fitted some to be loosely fitted (just like jeans and pants in the store). Some of it has to do with the fabric you used. This is where your experience comes into play. Butterick is much closer to size than most, but they've been bought by the same company as McCalls and McCalls can have a whole lot of extra ease in them. You have to, at some point decide the way you want those pants (or anything else) to fit and if the ease they have used is what you would want. Truly, you need to start looking at the size 16 if that is really what you measure and go down from there. It has been my experience that most people who wear a RTW size 8 are about a size 12 in patterns, but it can vary a great deal. Many of the pattern companies are publishing their finished measurments on the back of the pattern and that is a lifesaver because many of the stores will no longer trade a pattern.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: LauraM62
Date: 04-10-2006, 11:46 AM (7 of 18)
Oh RTW and the vanity sizing  I wear a size 8 in pants in RTW at least in todays vanity sizing (does make a gal feel good though!) but if you look back over the years I believe that size 8 today is relative to about a size 12 before vanity sizing hit the RTW industry. I do find that generally I need a size 12 in patterns as they don't have vanity sizing  . Then like it was mentioned fabric can often play into the pattern too - if you make something with a lycra and/or spandex blend into the fabric you can sometimes get a smaller size to work (the stretch factor). Again as was mentioned the style of the pants can play into the fit also. Before I start any pattern I check my measurements against what size I would want to start with, then I check the amount of ease they are planning with that style, from the waist to the hips to the knees. Here I can plan my alterations (I always have them as I am retanglar in the waist area! with narrow hips) to maintain the ease level for the pattern - or even reduce the ease all around if I think that is too much ease for my taste. Then there are tops, my largest feature area, I wear a 12 in RTW but in patterns I can generally get away with a 14 because I can do a full-bust-adjustment & extend the length of the sleeve - all the things that force into a bigger size in RTW. I love sewing tops, sleeves the right lengths!! 
LauraM
SW Indiana If everyone cared and nobody cried; If everyone loved and nobody lied; If everyone shared and swallowed their pride; Then we'd see the day when nobody died --'If Everyone Cared' by Nickelback |
User: LauraM62
Member since: 08-10-2003 Total posts: 246
|
From: Dee Dee Warren
Date: 05-08-2006, 08:43 PM (8 of 18)
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What's with not publishing the size measurements on the back! I just bought a few Vogue patterns that had no chart on the back. How is one supposed to figure it out without a chart?
Xena the Sewing Princess ~ I have many skills
|
User: Dee Dee Warren
Member since: 04-25-2006 Total posts: 49 
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From: bridesmom
Date: 05-08-2006, 10:43 PM (9 of 18)
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Pam, the chart from Denver Fabrics - what exactly is it a chart of? When I went to the link I get a list of the fabrics that they have to order, but I kind of thought it was a chart with something to do with the faric structure???
Laura
Tickled pink with my Innovis 4000D |
User: bridesmom
Member since: 01-21-2004 Total posts: 2026 |
From: paroper
Date: 05-09-2006, 01:01 AM (10 of 18)
|
It should be a chart showing the amount of ease in patterns required for each of the fits of pattern. The chart should show pants, jackets, dresses, etc., and then fitted, semi fitted, etc. Tonight I can't get the link to work at all. Here is a list. The chart was easier to read but this works. http://www.leenas.com/English/macros_bodice_blocks.html Dee Dee, there is usually a size chart some place. Some patterns put it on the guide sheets, some on the pattern envelope. I've even seen yardages on the guide sheet. If all else fails, you can always use the one in the back of the pattern book...but that isn't nearly as helpful when you pick up the pattern 6 mos down the road. Some companies cut off the pattern flap for inventory. This can be a problem if the sizes are there. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Dee Dee Warren
Date: 05-09-2006, 06:52 AM (11 of 18)
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That is so frustrating to not have it handy right there on the back. I found the Vogue one for a top I am doing on the instruction sheet, but you kinda get wierd looks in the store when you are pulling out of the package.
Xena the Sewing Princess ~ I have many skills
|
User: Dee Dee Warren
Member since: 04-25-2006 Total posts: 49
|
From: paroper
Date: 05-09-2006, 09:01 AM (12 of 18)
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Ya know, for the price of patterns, I don't really bat an eye anymore about taking the guide sheet out of the envelope and looking at "things". Sometimes they call for notions that you are not sure you need or you want to see how they are used. Sometimes you want to combine fabrics or change the layout. It can be crucial to what you purchase at the store. I've even opened up a few paper patterns in the store when the "finished" measurements seemed out of line with the pattern. When a store won't let you return a pattern and the size you are buying is on the "edge" sometimes you need to be able to see what you are dealing with..esp. Simplicity patterns. I don't trust Simplicity at all. I did 30 dresses a few years ago with a very short time crunch. The dress showed to be fitted on the pattern envelope...and there was a "real" picture. In fact, the dress had 12 inches of "ease" at the waist of the pattern above the pattern measurments with no fitting darts at all. Now, I used to having to sew a different size in Simplicity to get a fitted pattern but when your pattern is nothing like the envelope and the customer is expecting those results....it is murder. On top of that, they had mismeasured the whole pattern by several inches (bigger) over what was printed..for instance, the pattern waist measurment showed to be 8 inches above the pattern size instead of the actual 12. When I called and complained, among other things, I told them that I had expected the dress to look like the picture since it was a real snapshot, not a drawing. The girl told me that they just pin those dresses to fit for the pictures and they aren't very accurate. It is a good thing I wasn't there in person...I would have probably lost it!!!! They did offer me a "free" pattern. (They should have offered "free inpatient psyc care".) pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 05-09-2006, 01:06 PM (13 of 18)
|
Ya know, for the price of patterns, I don't really bat an eye anymore about taking the guide sheet out of the envelope and looking at "things". Well heck, I thought that was why they are packaged in an unsealed envelope. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: Writer
Date: 07-26-2006, 11:34 AM (14 of 18)
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I am so glad to read all of these posts on this subject. I've been trying this past year to sew a few of my own clothes and all of them have ended up in the rag bin. Now I get it, I need to measure the pattern pieces before I even cut them out. I'm tired of dresses that are way to big on the top but don't slide over the hips, or pants that are too short to even hem. I do want to get back to making my own clothes especially dresses. I'd almost decided to put my almost never used serger and embrodery machine on the auction site! Thanks! Diana |
User: Writer
Member since: 01-16-2001 Total posts: 184 
|
From: LauraM62
Date: 07-28-2006, 08:21 AM (15 of 18)
Yep check those measurements! It takes a little extra time in the start but worth it! I have opened pattern envelopes in the stores to see 1) the size charts 2) listed finished measurements I agree for the price of the pattern, the fabric, & my time I want to check out what I'm getting into. Heck most of the patterns aren't sealed anymore so I figure who am I hurting, only helping myself frustration really! So I check my measurements for the size chart - then I check what they show the finished measurements should be (if they've printed that!) which should give me the ease levels they've considered for the pattern. I have even checked these with tape measure (at home  ) to see if there were errors on the ease levels and/or finished measurements printed. Of course this is all my pre-cursor to the fitting alterations I start  And if you really want to search a pattern for finished measurements - try Burda I like Burda for fit for me but I really have to open them up at the store - but haven't had a clerk say boo to me yet 
LauraM
SW Indiana If everyone cared and nobody cried; If everyone loved and nobody lied; If everyone shared and swallowed their pride; Then we'd see the day when nobody died --'If Everyone Cared' by Nickelback |
User: LauraM62
Member since: 08-10-2003 Total posts: 246
|
From: paroper
Date: 07-28-2006, 08:49 AM (16 of 18)
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There was a time when you take them back and trade the patterns for (the same one) with sales slip and all...if the pattern was the wrong size. More and more stores are not allowing that. Besides, with gas at nearly $3 a gallon and most of us living many miles from the stores, who can afford the time and the travel to exchange a dollar pattern? (Although, if I pay $25 for a pattern I CAN afford it!)
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: LauraM62
Date: 07-28-2006, 10:03 AM (17 of 18)
|
You know Pam I wonder if more of that stopped because more of us started tracing patterns, then with home all in one machines you could copy the instructions. Not that I have done it, but I could see the abuse easily. Might be the companies saving themselves on that side. Although I do know they will still let you exchange the same pattern for a different size if it was you simply picked up the wrong size ... slippery fingers I know about
LauraM
SW Indiana If everyone cared and nobody cried; If everyone loved and nobody lied; If everyone shared and swallowed their pride; Then we'd see the day when nobody died --'If Everyone Cared' by Nickelback |
User: LauraM62
Member since: 08-10-2003 Total posts: 246
|
From: paroper
Date: 07-28-2006, 10:47 AM (18 of 18)
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That is all I ever did but around here fewer and fewer stores are letting you do that...now if you happened to get a pattern that Wal Mart has Wal Mart will exchange it for another size but I've had more and more trouble with some of the local Hancocks and for some Hancocks stores it is an absolute "NO" under any circumstances, regardless of what you pay for the pattern. It can be a real problem where the pattern size is on the "breaking line" and you have to make a choice then get home and discover that the choice was all wrong. Of course, some alterations are "nothing to do" but there are others that I'd just rather have the pattern company do for me, "thank you".
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
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