Sew What’s Up Presents
The Sew What’s New Archive
This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and
quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was
retired in August 2007. It is being provided by
“Sew What’s Up,”
which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: Ali Pye
Date: 02-10-2006, 07:38 PM (1 of 10)
|
Hi everybody, I'm new here and I am so glad I found you. I like to sew, hand knit, machine knit and quilt. I like to make fabric on my knitting machine and use pattern making to make garments. I am mad about making the perfect pair of pants, I have tried every pattern, also drafted my own and I am almost there. I do have a question however, I would like to know if there is a relationship between the crotch depth and the width of the thigh that controls how much ease there is in your walking stride? For instance, jeans feel good to wear because they fit closely to the crotch, and with very little ease around the thigh, this causes your stride to be free, but with trousers, or slacks where the pants are more flowing, shall we say, the stride is affected by the ease in the width of thigh and the depth of th crotch, I was wondering if anyone knows what the RATIO is between the depth of the crotch and the width of the thigh. Hope I am making sense. Please help with any input you might have. Ali |
User: Ali Pye
Member since: 02-10-2006 Total posts: 5 |
From: LauraM62
Date: 02-11-2006, 07:43 AM (2 of 10)
I wished I had an answer for you! I wonder if there isn't a set guideline as much is a perferance issue. I did look at my books because I remember one that talked about 'walking ease' & 'movement ease' on garments. Sandra Betzina covers some in her Power Sewing book, but not allot on pants. She gives you walking ease amounts on everything but pants. Then she does give you basic ease allowances on pants for close-fitting, fitted, etc, but just the hip area, not thigh and/or crotch info. Even in my fitting books, or my pant fitting books, do they give me info on what type of ease I should be looking at for crotch, thighs, knees, etc with different styles. I use software for pattern drafting, so would love this info too! It would save me allot of time on guessing & testing 
LauraM
SW Indiana If everyone cared and nobody cried; If everyone loved and nobody lied; If everyone shared and swallowed their pride; Then we'd see the day when nobody died --'If Everyone Cared' by Nickelback |
User: LauraM62
Member since: 08-10-2003 Total posts: 246 
|
From: paroper
Date: 02-11-2006, 08:02 AM (3 of 10)
|
Here are a few articles that may help you. Although the last article actually deals with some pattern software, I think that it will be helpful because it shows the crotch relationship/shape compared to fit of pant. http://www.simplicity.com/index.cfm?page=section/fittips/fitpant.html http://www.butterick.com/tech/ease/ease.html http://www.conselle.com/Fit_and_Fashion_Sewing/Featured_Article.html This looks like a section from instructions on using a particular pattern drafting software. However, it has some excellent illustrations showing the relationship of the crotch in regard to pant width and may actually give you a reference point for your project. http://www.geocities.com/FashionAvenue/Catwalk/4867/Pantsfitease.htm pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Ali Pye
Date: 02-11-2006, 10:57 AM (4 of 10)
|
Thank you so much for the interesting sites that I visited with relish. I guess I am looking for a mathematical equation or ratio that would be almost foolproof for the walking stride. When I fit my muslin, I can tweak the depth, length or width of the crotch, but I really don't know for sure which one was the culprit and gave me the best results. You know when you fix one thing you almost always have to fix something else, the grain for example, then I get so involved and excited to try it again, so I am whipping out another muslin and go again, then I find something else. So, that is why I was wondering if there was a ratio that would eliminate that fuss. I have never found anyone discuss this relationship. One of the Threads mags discussed the width of the hip and crotch area. That is very helpful, if you use a flexible ruler and mold it to your body between your legs, then step out of it you have the exact shape of your crotch. Pants are very tricky because there are so many measurements that have to meld together to make a good pair of pants. Off my soap box Ali |
User: Ali Pye
Member since: 02-10-2006 Total posts: 5 |
From: LauraM62
Date: 02-12-2006, 06:06 AM (5 of 10)
Ali you are right I think that with so many body shapes that pants are very hard, and I am guessing is in part why I haven't seen them either. Believe me I have looked for more info over the last very years on ease relationships on pants. But as you said body types can really effect so much, and there is so much beyond just waist, hip, crotch. The thigh size & shape can even change the stride of the pant  not getting into the each type of pant, and how each fabric will behave. Although the links are good, I personally had read much of that already, even have the Palmer/Peltsch book Pants For Real People. I was even surprised that my Armstrong Pattern Drafting Book didn't get further into depth on the ease levels. 
LauraM
SW Indiana If everyone cared and nobody cried; If everyone loved and nobody lied; If everyone shared and swallowed their pride; Then we'd see the day when nobody died --'If Everyone Cared' by Nickelback |
User: LauraM62
Member since: 08-10-2003 Total posts: 246
|
From: MaryW
Date: 02-13-2006, 09:14 AM (6 of 10)
Ali Pye, hi and welcome to Sew Whats New.  Pants will always confound some of us I think. I haven't found the perfect fitting pant nor do I relish making umpteen changes to a muslin. 
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542 
|
From: Ali Pye
Date: 02-13-2006, 11:31 AM (7 of 10)
|
Thanks everybody, I am so glad I am not alone in my bewilderment. OH BTW the crotch depth can vary and cause problems if you measure the side seam straight down to the floor or hemline, or if you measure over the curves of a high hip or saddlebag hips. The difference between the inseam and the side seam is supposed to give you the rise, but there would be a difference based on how you measure. The sitting on a hard chair and taking the side measurement for crotch depth is not necassarily taking into consideration the curves. There likes a dilemma. One of these days, I am going to find out what works. I make pants for golfing which needs comfort, I make pants to hang out in, that are really comfy and I like to make slacks that I can wear with a tunic or shirt that looks good standing, walking or sitting down. I once took a class from Peggy Sager about fitting, unfortunately, I got fitted but had no explanations. I will continue to strive and report whenever I think I have something of interest. Ali |
User: Ali Pye
Member since: 02-10-2006 Total posts: 5 |
From: AndreaSews
Date: 02-15-2006, 08:45 PM (8 of 10)
|
Ali, I once took one of Peggy Sager's classes at a convention, too. Mine was the opposite--mostly explanation, but not a lot of demo! We could stand to put our heads together! I really would like the explanation but then hands-on guidance to put it all to practice. In class, I just got enough to think, yes, this makes sense, but by the time I got home I couldn't use it!
Andrea
|
User: AndreaSews
Member since: 02-18-2005 Total posts: 1007 
|
From: Ali Pye
Date: 02-16-2006, 11:16 AM (9 of 10)
|
Hi Andrea, I too have been to several conventions where she was lecturing. I have sat in her classes and hung on every word. I also bought several of her patterns. She has a lot of experience. The only way I got a hands on was because I signed up for a private session. One of the shops got her for a day, so we had morning and afternoon sessions. She fitted your muslin to you. I had my sloper and my pants fitted by her. You might consider getting her videos. They are very helpful, BUT if you can find a friend close enough so that you can help each other out, it would be super. Where do you live anyway, hope you are close to me. I live in Oregon. I moved here from California where I had a friend who was great. We fitted each other. She was a graduate of the Fashion Inst. of Design and Merchandising from Los Angeles. Oh well!!. Ali |
User: Ali Pye
Member since: 02-10-2006 Total posts: 5 |
From: Sancin
Date: 02-16-2006, 08:44 PM (10 of 10)
|
Ali Pye I was clearing out some papers last night and found something in a Threads artile I had torn out. Perhaps you can find it: Threads Magazine: Feb March 1998 - Fitting section - answer to question regarding pants tight around rear and knees. Expert responded that "Pants that seem to fit well but aren't comfortable for walking are usually too narrow in the crotch." Article doesn't have ratio's but does have math calculations to correct. I also found an article on ratio's for design and heights for women which I believe was from Sew News, but can't locate it today. *~*~*~* Nancy*~*~*~* " I try to take one day at a time - but sometimes several days attack me at once."
|
User: Sancin
Member since: 02-13-2005 Total posts: 895 
|
Visit Sew What’s Up for the latest sewing and quilting tips and discussions.
This page was originally located on Sew What’s New (www.sew-whats-new.com) at http://www.sew-whats-new.com/vb/archive/index.php/t-18173.html
Sew What’s Up is hosted by ZenSoft