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From: FredtheCow
Date: 02-24-2006, 01:50 AM (1 of 21)
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Im not sure where to put this, and this is the closest thing to what I need help with. Ive been having an on going war with my sewing machine, its a singer so Im pretty sure its a good quality. I have read the stupid manual front and back many of times, but yet Im still finding problems. I have set the bobbin thread tension perfectly, according to the manual. But doing so for some odd reason I can never get the top right. In this I mean the normal tension is usually 4-3 or 2 but I have to put it on 0 no matter how much I adjust the bobbin. But it works on 0 so thats not really my complaint. My complaint is this, Ill be all fine and dandy sewing and everything until all of a sudden I realize my material hasnt moved an inch, and the needle keeps stricking the same spot. This causes it to bunch up in a big wad on the other side. When this happens I usually try to stop it before it bunches up. But I have to "manually" move the material, and "manually" move the needle, and by this I mean turn the knob on the side. Sometimes when this happens the needle absolutely refuses to move and its already through the material. so i have to wiggly the stupid knob back and forth countless number of times or "Force" the needle to move, which is probably not a good thing to do (but wigglying it doesnt work all the time). Does anybody know the root of my problem? this seems to happen when the material starts getting thicker (such as a T seamline at the end of a pantleg, or shirt). I actually used a thicker needle (one thats good enough to pierce through jean) to see if thickness was actually the problem. But my machine did the same thing. Oh. and its a very light material I was using, almost like cotton but a tiny bit lighter. |
User: FredtheCow
Member since: 08-07-2005 Total posts: 11 
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From: Kylnne2
Date: 02-24-2006, 04:01 AM (2 of 21)
| It's hard to understand the problem without seeing it in person but I will give my thoughts on your problem from what I understand. I find it odd that your machine sews only with the tension on 0. Usually if fabric is not moving it means that your feed dogs are down and need to be brought up. It's hard to say without knowing your type of machine. You posted that you have a Singer. Some much older machines have a lever to adjust feed that lets you sew with different positions of the feed dogs and other models only have adjustment for the dogs to be all the way up or all the way down. Some Singers had nylon feed and they could wear down a bit and maybe not feed so well and if you have this type maybe they need replacing. You can also replace the nylon ones with metal ones if you prefer. As for your needle not moving..do you mean it gets stuck down in the material or just not going over heavy seams? If your feed dogs are up and ok and if you can adjust your foot pressure that will usually help your machine go over heavy fabric and seams. That's about all I can think of to suggest. Maybe somebody else has some other thoughts. Good luck, I hope the problems get resolved. |
User: Kylnne2
Member since: 07-10-2004 Total posts: 629 |
From: soverysewey
Date: 02-24-2006, 04:05 AM (3 of 21)
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Does your machine have adjustable presser foot pressure? You may need to adjust that too. I hate to say this but....Some of the new Singers are not as good as Singers used to be. What model do you have? |
User: soverysewey
Member since: 12-19-2003 Total posts: 56 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 02-24-2006, 09:00 AM (4 of 21)
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I agree -- it sounds like your feed dogs aren't up where they should be. When you go over thick spots use a longer stitch length and slow down. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: paroper
Date: 02-24-2006, 09:53 AM (5 of 21)
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I'm with the others. The feed dogs are what move the fabric through the machine. There should be a button, toggle switch or lever that goes up and down, in or out. Look for that. It is usually on the right, sometimes on the side, sometimes at the base of the machine, even on the base. There is a good chance that has been bumped or pushed in. I don't recall ever seeing one on the back, but even that is possible. You don't use feed dogs in embroidery work or in some types of quilting (or darning) so it is possible they were left down after the last project. Some machines have a darning mode that actually lowers the feed dogs instead of a button listed as feed dogs. You might see that instead.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Kylnne2
Date: 02-24-2006, 04:19 PM (6 of 21)
| Paroper, My Kenmore has a drop feed lever on the back of and underneath the free arm, can you believe? I was wondering if this is found in other Janome made models also. |
User: Kylnne2
Member since: 07-10-2004 Total posts: 629 |
From: paroper
Date: 02-24-2006, 05:10 PM (7 of 21)
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It probably is. It doesn't sound like a place where you might accidentally hit it though. I've sewn on a few where you could engage and disengage it and not even realize that you touched the silly thing.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: FredtheCow
Date: 02-24-2006, 09:44 PM (8 of 21)
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When I say my needle wont move I mean its stuck in the fabric and wont move up or down. Im taking it the feed dog is the foot thing you can put down to help your material not move. That thing that can be replaced with a zipper foot? Im not sure what the original one is called (the one used for regular sewing) But if you dont understand what Im saying just explain what a feed dog is to me. Ive never heard of such a term. It might be the pressure (if the feed dog is what Im thinking it is...), and if it is Ill adjust it to see if the problem stops. Thank you for the advice. This machine drives me nuts : ( Im not sure what model it is, all I know is that I got it last year (so a newer model) around christmas. It was only around 100 bucks so Im pretty sure its cheaply made, and that SOME parts of it are plastic and wear out. |
User: FredtheCow
Member since: 08-07-2005 Total posts: 11
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From: trini
Date: 02-24-2006, 11:33 PM (9 of 21)
| One of my machines is a Brother VX 780 and I find that it is a fussy machine; sometimes I get that same problem with it. To remedy the situation I take the bobbin out of the case and clean the lint outfrom anywhere it may have accumulated; I then put a drop of machine oil on the feed dogs (I hope that the feed dogs are what I think they are). This remedys the situation for a while. When it occurs again I repeat the process. Hope that this helps. |
User: trini
Member since: 09-17-2005 Total posts: 74 |
From: MartySews
Date: 02-24-2006, 11:46 PM (10 of 21)
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The part of the sewing machine that holds the fabric in place is the presser foot lever. The feed dogs are under it. Do you have a drop in bobbin or a rotary bobbin? If it's a rotary bobbin, you may need to press a lever next to it to raise your feed dogs. How old is your machine? Singers made after about 1968 are not the same ones that we grew up with. Your machine may need a good cleaning to remove built up lint. When you set it at zero, you're telling the machine to stay in one place. That's usually for buttonholes, free motion embroidery, etc. A book like "A-Z of the Sewing Machine" is not machine specific but can really help in trouble-shooting. Hope this helps. Marty 
It takes one moment to change a life.
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User: MartySews
Member since: 02-23-2003 Total posts: 504 
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From: FredtheCow
Date: 02-25-2006, 12:39 AM (11 of 21)
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Setting the top thread tension to zero is telling it to stay? I wasnt aware of that. Actually now that I think about it I believe doing button wholes has its own seperate mode. I have a bobbin that you just push in until it clicks, and I still have no idea where the feed dogs are : O Im pretty sure I have a really new version of singer. It came with a bunch of other lookalikes as a special for walmart/target or someplace (for christmas). Its got a few plastic foots so Im pretty sure its a cheaply made one (once again) And plus I have no idea about how to go about cleaning it. The manual says a few things its just uses some terms I dont know. But I guess I can try again, try cleaning my machine Somehow find the feed dogs and adjust them if I need to. Oh wait. the feed dogs are the things that ACTUALLY move the fabric forward. yes, I know what you are talking about now. But considering the fact I have NEVER once cleaned my machine before and Ive only used it to sew one thing (other than the outfit it kept missing up on) More than likely the problem is cleaning it? |
User: FredtheCow
Member since: 08-07-2005 Total posts: 11
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From: Kylnne2
Date: 02-25-2006, 03:33 AM (12 of 21)
| Fred, Usually when the top thread is set at 0 on a numbered tension dial that means your thread is using no tension at all. I don't know if your machine is different being you are getting stitches at the 0 setting. Usually a machine's proper top thread tension is somewhere in the middle of the numbered dial for most fabrics. Some machines have auto tension and you can usually leave the dial set at the Auto tension markings what ever that marking may be for the machine model that is being used. You might want to change your tension and see if your machine functions and stitches a bit better. Yes, the feed dogs are the teeth that are in the plate that pulls your fabric through. |
User: Kylnne2
Member since: 07-10-2004 Total posts: 629 |
From: Tom Land
Date: 02-26-2006, 01:57 PM (13 of 21)
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Fred, for most sewing your thread tension should be on 4 - 4 1/2. Your stitch length around 2.5. Make sure you are threading the machine with the presser foot up. Make sure your needle does not have a burr on it. If it is on these settings it should sew. If the problem continues do not assume it is you! Take the machine back before the 90 days are up. Even if it is a defective machine after 90 days it will be your problem as Wal Mart, etc. will not take it back.
Have fun or don't do it, Tom
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User: Tom Land
Member since: 09-21-2005 Total posts: 514 |
From: paroper
Date: 02-26-2006, 09:39 PM (14 of 21)
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2.5 Is a good stitch length for most fabrics. Heavier fabrics, even heavier knits and fleece do a little better with 3.0 stitch length. Your tensions (top and bottom) should meet in the center of the fabric WHEN SEWING. Embroidery tension is a different thing all together as the top thread wraps onto the bottom stitch field when doing embroidery. If you happen to have some older, weaker thread, if you sew a line and "POP" the seam, the seams should either not break or they should break at roughly the same rate. If the top thread shatters and the bottom does not break or only breaks a couple of times, the top is too tight and vice versa. If you can find an older spool of thread, or perhaps some cheap store brand (sewing weight cotton works best), it is easier to "POP" if testing this way. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Tom Land
Date: 02-27-2006, 12:52 AM (15 of 21)
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Good points Pam.
Have fun or don't do it, Tom
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User: Tom Land
Member since: 09-21-2005 Total posts: 514 |
From: FredtheCow
Date: 03-03-2006, 09:55 AM (16 of 21)
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Make sure you are threading the machine with the presser foot up Does this include the needle, and if you dont mind me asking, whys this? But my 90 days are already up : D Ive had it for over a year now. And upon further thinking its been used more than I previously thought. My sister had borrowed it for some time and its since Ive received it back that Ive been having this problem. (so Im thinking about cleaning it once I have open time) The threads do meet While Im sewing. Its when I set the tension higher that either the bottom or the top thread start slacking (If you break the thread after you sew the material, you could just pull one side out easily with no hassle because its not entering the material whatsoever) But yes, thank you everybody for the ideas as to what might be wrong. Im pretty sure Ill try all of them until I get it fixed. And if nothing works Ill be heading back here. Infact ill TRY today to clean it. I miss sewing : ( |
User: FredtheCow
Member since: 08-07-2005 Total posts: 11
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From: Pudge99
Date: 03-03-2006, 11:42 AM (17 of 21)
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The reason your foot should be up when threading is because of tension. When the foot is lowered the tension disks are tight giving you tension. When it is raised all tension is realeased and this allows you to get the thread seated properly in the tension discs. If you do not have the thread properly in the discs then your tension can be all thrown off. There are a few things that I am thinking of when you say it just stops moving. One there might be a useless plastic part that has broken off and is getting caught in the works. I had this happen and when I opened the machine up to give it a good cleaning the plastic part fell out and the machine sews wonderfully now. Two your feed dogs need some work. Three it might need a new belt which I highly doubt because I don't think new machines have them. Four and most likely in my opinion. Your bottom tension is wacked! If your fabric is not moving it could be because the bobbin tension is too tight. There could be lots of causes for this. A poorly wound bobbin. Thread is coming off the bobbin the wrong dirrection. You tightened it too tight. There are burrs on the bobbin case. There are so many possibilities and it is hard to diagnose with out seeing the machine. I say a trip to the repair shop is needed. Most will do free estimates. The main thing is that you make it clear that you are interested in repairing this machine not in buying the new top of the line machine that they set right near the repair counter to entice you. Gina
Pictures of my successes and failures Pfaff 2040 Janome Mylock 134D Singer Futura CE-100 w/ Autopunch Husqvarna Viking 3D Sketch |
User: Pudge99
Member since: 10-30-2001 Total posts: 1375 |
From: Pudge99
Date: 03-03-2006, 11:44 AM (18 of 21)
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Oh yeah it doesn't hurt to have the needle in the highest possition too. That way all the thread guides are easy to access.
Gina
Pictures of my successes and failures Pfaff 2040 Janome Mylock 134D Singer Futura CE-100 w/ Autopunch Husqvarna Viking 3D Sketch |
User: Pudge99
Member since: 10-30-2001 Total posts: 1375 |
From: paroper
Date: 03-03-2006, 12:34 PM (19 of 21)
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Most commonly nests in the bobbin area are caused by problems above the slide plate. The first two most common causes are that the machine was threaded with the needle down so that the tension disks were not open, by- passing the tension all together or starting beyond the edge of the fabric when you stitch. You can either start on the inside edge of the fabric or use a leading piece of fabric in front of the project to take care of that. Missed guides or misthreading can also be a problem. Beyond that, wrong needle/size/length/type, not inserted fully, inserted the wrong direction (on most of the flat part goes to the back, but there are exceptions depending upon the location of your bobbin in the machine...check your manual.) Also, a serious mismatch between your needle and thread can also cause nesting problems. Some machines will also make terrible nests if the thread is not advanced to the top of the plate and physically held to the back left of the machine when making the first stitches. The thread can be sucked into the plate, when the hook tries to make a stitch, it catches on the stray piece and you have a nest. The same type of thing can happen if there are stray broken threads in the bobbin area OR if there is a slight tag of thread from the bobbin threading process left on the bobbin. Generally the degree of top tension adjustment that is needed when you are sewing either causes looping in the top thread (too loose) or tight top thread (too tight). If it is tight in the bottom, the bottom thread pulls tight or is in loosely formed loops, not nests of thread. That is a severe case, not normally caused by typical maladjustment. If you take your bobbin case out, hold it by the string, it should drop a few inches and stop. If you take your bobbin out and hold it by the string and it drops to the floor, it is too loose. If it doesn't drop at all, it is too tight. Your dealer can adjust the bobbin correctly. Once it is correctly adjusted, no further adjustments should be made to a good bobbin case for some time. They don't normally just "get out" of adjustment. When your needle starts making nests, it binds the machine and the machine cannot advance the material or the thread. It (often) makes a terrible scrunching noise. As far as the position of the needle goes, when the needle advances to make a stitch, the thread take up lever advances to its highest position, pulling the thread forward and then goes down. Many machines auto stop just prior to the highest point of the take up lever so that when the machine starts, it pulls the thread from the needle. The best (and first) habit is to learn to advance the thread just slightly over the top when you stop sewing. If you will do this, you will have fewer unthreadings and frusterations. That was one of the first habits we were taught to establish when sewing on our first Singers years ago. You also have fewer problems if, when you start to sew, you advance the handwheel with the first stitches. One other thing. If you were not the last person to sew on the machine (and it appears that you weren't), there is absolutely no telling what well-meaning adjustments and improvements were made to your machine when it was out of your sight. I've never known anyone to deliberatly mal-adjust a machine, but man, everyone tinkers with them and you may have fallen victim to that. Once you have your machine properly adjusted, you should not have to make serious adjustments (ever) even to routine tension. After you finish a project where you have adjusted something, always return the machine to the original adjustments (including tensions) so that you always have a central place to start. Our local band director was watching an instrument repairman working one day and commented on his "neat" screw driver. It was fixed so that you could work with it in very odd angles. The repairman offered him the driver. The teacher said "Are you kiddling? I'd love it, but I'll take some if your work." The repairman said, no, he loved it when the directors got new tools because he always had MORE work. It's the same thing with these machines. You may want to take it in just have it readjusted to the correct places. Sometimes in trying to correct things, you can really get things out of sinc. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: FredtheCow
Date: 03-14-2006, 11:03 AM (20 of 21)
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: D Well, I knew sewing wasnt this hard and I finally got my machine fixed. Its been smooth sailing ever since. I first oiled the hook since I have never done so, Than I cleaned the feed dogs as best I could, but considering I couldnt lift up the plate (the screws wouldnt come lose) The job wasnt perfect, but well. Than I looked through my whole sewing book only to find I cant change the presure of the feed dogs, so I decided to change the pressure of the Foot instead (since its in the same area, and I figured out THIS was one of the problems. Thus why it stopped on thick parts) Than... I went on and found out my bobbin was sit too tight. I sweared the last time I looked at it the tension was perfect. Oh, and I had a major problem with threading with the foot down (this is so when I reached the needle it was easy to thread). Thank you for that tip it is highly valiable. The one thing I hate about sewing class (at least in highschool) is that they never taught me how to fix a machine. I think thats something vital they should teach. It took me so long to fix it, and if I at the very least knew some basic steps it wouldnt have tooken me so long. But thank you everyone for your help. And now my tensions work like they are supposed to. The top is on tension 4! what a happy day |
User: FredtheCow
Member since: 08-07-2005 Total posts: 11
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From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 03-14-2006, 12:33 PM (21 of 21)
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FredTheCow, I had a similar problem like the one you described .. (fabric not moving and making a big wad of thread in one place underneath).. My problem was a knit fabric that was very hard to sew with a regular sewing machine.. And I did not have a needle for knits in the machine.. I changed to a needle for knits and it worked much better... The feed dogs , by the way, if nobody has explained, are the part right on the machine bed that moves the fabric along when you are sewing.. I try not to sew knits on my sewing machine for this very reason.. I try to serge all my knits , if possible.. Sew With Love
Libby |
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002 Total posts: 2022 
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