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From: Jan Jones
Date: 03-14-2006, 09:46 AM (1 of 12)
| I am upholstering a drywalled area with an arched niche; dimensions are 9"deep, 50" wide, 95" high. I was advised not to use high-density foam, but I cannot locate regular foam anymore. This hi-density foam is on sale on the net, so I need to order it soon. I am unsure whether a 2" thick foam or a 3" thick foam is what I need to use, in addition to the top layer of batting. I am upholstering a 5" thick hi-density foam and batting bench which will be at the bottom of this niche, and it will also be tufted. Am I on the right track? |
User: Jan Jones
Member since: 03-14-2006 Total posts: 3 |
From: DebN.
Date: 03-14-2006, 03:36 PM (2 of 12)
| Jan, are you upholstering the wall for the look or to create a back for the bench seat? I would use 3 inch if you are looking to make a chair back, but I would only use 1 inch if it is simply for that cushy look. I don't see why you can't use high density for this especially if it is for the chair back. |
User: DebN.
Member since: 03-14-2006 Total posts: 6 |
From: esrun3
Date: 03-14-2006, 05:53 PM (3 of 12)
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Welcome Deb & Jan. I don't have an answer for you Jan but wanted to welcome you and ask you Jan if you will share a pic of the wall when you are done. It sounds very intriguing!
Lyn
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User: esrun3
Member since: 12-02-2004 Total posts: 2345 |
From: Chrysantha
Date: 03-14-2006, 09:44 PM (4 of 12)
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You can buy all kinds of foam at JoAnns and Hancocks. If you don't have either of those two, try.... www.joann.com sometimes Wally World carries it too. Chrys
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User: Chrysantha
Member since: 09-06-2002 Total posts: 2414 
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From: AndreaSews
Date: 03-15-2006, 08:19 PM (5 of 12)
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hmmm....I have a question for you Jan. Are you going to tuft the wall as well as the bench? I was just thinking about the process of tufting, and I'm wondering how you would do it on a wall (can't get behind the wall to fasten the tufts.). I used high density foam for my headboard, and it went just fine. A lady in a home dec shop tried to convince me not to, b/c it's not what they use and not what they sell. She said for their custom orders, they use layer upon layer of this heavy cottony batting. Not like the kind for quilting. It's sold on a huge bolt in the home dec shops. Anyway, I used a layer or two of quilter's batting over the foam to help fill in the tufts a little and make a smoother edge. The foam was...3(?) inches, but the depth of the foam/tufts is entirely the designer's (your) choice! If you have any Q's about the tufting process, I think the thread from my headboard job (January?) is still on this board, and it has a link to photos, as well as some of my stumbling points! Good luck. Andrea
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User: AndreaSews
Member since: 02-18-2005 Total posts: 1007 
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From: AndreaSews
Date: 03-15-2006, 08:23 PM (6 of 12)
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Yes, the two threads were "upholstery needle" and "working on a bedskirt." The former is the one with the quest to find the right materials for the job. The latter is the one with the easier-to-view photo gallery which includes the upholstery job.
Andrea
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User: AndreaSews
Member since: 02-18-2005 Total posts: 1007
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From: DebN.
Date: 03-15-2006, 08:29 PM (7 of 12)
| Andrea, you could tuft the wall by using large head screws or nails and then gluing a self covered button over it. I've even seen headboards done this way, although I prefer drilling the hole and tufting it the old fashioned way. As for the batting, I use a layer of the dacron on each side over the hi-density foam when I make bench pads for an interior decorator. The upholstery shops where I get my foam and dacron say it's the only way they do it. The Dacron gives it a really cushy, lush look. You could do that for the wall too. It fills in the little gaps so it's all plush. You can buy small amounts of the dacron in craft stores. It's marketed as '"crib bumper batting" or something similar. |
User: DebN.
Member since: 03-14-2006 Total posts: 6 |
From: Jan Jones
Date: 03-15-2006, 09:12 PM (8 of 12)
|
Thanks for all the great responses to my upholstered/tufted wall dilemma. I "plan" on using 1/4" pieces of plyboard/mdf, braced by framing underneath, and cut to the design of the niche; I will drill the holes for the covered buttons, use a spray adhesive to attach the foam to the plyboard, and cover with batting. I will use an industrial-strength velcro to attach this covered board framing to the wall niche. This way, I can do all the construction horizontially. It should fit tightly, so I think velcro will work. I think a 2" or 3" hi-density foam will work best. I think the bench seating (5" hi-density foam, upholstered and tufted) will fit if I bring the wall fabric construction down to fit on top of the bench seating. Does everyone agree with this idea? This is certainly an industrious task for me, but I decided that the fabric-tufted wall would look much better than another piece of artwork on a plain wall. Oh yes, this is going in my master bathroom. I have two entrances to the bathroom, and this niche and bench area is between these two openings. The look should be stunning. Wish me luck, and, again, thank you. |
User: Jan Jones
Member since: 03-14-2006 Total posts: 3 |
From: AndreaSews
Date: 03-15-2006, 09:37 PM (9 of 12)
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I feel so dense--so, is the bench built into the wall? And does it have a hinged top that opens/lifts, or is it what-you-see-is-what-you-get? If built in and WYSIWYG (I don't know what to call it!), then I'd say to tuft the wall facade right down to the height of the bare bench. I would then tuft the bench, in front of the tufted wall facade, going as close to it as you can. Even if that means removing the bench-top while you work on it and then returning it to position when complete. I think if there were any gap, I'd rather see it on the bench than on the wall. What do you think? Andrea
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User: AndreaSews
Member since: 02-18-2005 Total posts: 1007
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From: DebN.
Date: 03-16-2006, 08:50 AM (10 of 12)
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If you are welting the pad you will lose that detail under the wall pad if you do that way. I think it might look more finished if you do it as Andrea suggested and pad the wall down to the bench with the benchpad in front. You can velcro the bench pad to the bench or use a piece of rug pad (the rubberized stuff)if you are nervous about shifting. Deb |
User: DebN.
Member since: 03-14-2006 Total posts: 6 |
From: AndreaSews
Date: 03-16-2006, 09:12 AM (11 of 12)
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Velcro! Good idea, Deb! Way better than dismantling things as I suggested!
Andrea
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User: AndreaSews
Member since: 02-18-2005 Total posts: 1007
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From: Jan Jones
Date: 03-16-2006, 05:18 PM (12 of 12)
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The bench is built-in with a "piano"(?) hidden hinge for storage. I'm planning on welting only the bottom of the seat, as this will be upholstered and tufted to match the wall behind. It will have a 3/8" plywood base with a felt bottom, which will then sit on the hinged opening. Using a rug pad is a great idea. Never would have thought of that. I think ya'll are right about bringing the fabric down behind the bench. I can recut my 5" foam seat to fit...but only after I do the wall. I was concerned about the seat slipping, but that rug pad just might do the trick. I don't want to use velcro. Thanks for the info and "support". I will take a photo after I'm finished, but don't hold your breath...have to wait for that foam to go on sale at JoAnn's. They're out-of-stock on the web site at this time. |
User: Jan Jones
Member since: 03-14-2006 Total posts: 3 |
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