Sew What’s Up Presents
The Sew What’s New Archive
This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and
quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was
retired in August 2007. It is being provided by
“Sew What’s Up,”
which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: Kaitlinnegan
Date: 03-21-2006, 07:25 PM (1 of 26)
Hi everyone -- I have a rather general question -- when do you guys finish seams, and what finishes do you use? I have the Singer Complete Photo Guide to Sewing, which explains a lot of seam finishes rather nicely, but it doesn't really give any practical advice on when to use them. I've used zigzag stitching on the seam allowances of a few of my projects, but I was wondering if/when you might use french seams, fell flat seams, etc, and when seam finishing is really necessary (or should I be finishing every seam?). I'm particularly confused about curved seams that you have to clip -- do you just not worry about those raveling? Sorry for all the questions -- I guess I'm just curious! 
http://www.sew-whats-up.com - the new home for Sew What's New
|
User: Kaitlinnegan
Member since: 03-20-2006 Total posts: 222 
|
From: Chrysantha
Date: 03-21-2006, 09:25 PM (2 of 26)
|
I have a serger when I sew clothes I use that...(but I don't really like sewing clothes much...so it sits in the closet a lot...poor thing...)
Chrys
|
User: Chrysantha
Member since: 09-06-2002 Total posts: 2414 
|
From: bridesmom
Date: 03-21-2006, 10:04 PM (3 of 26)
|
I have used french seams on fabric that unravels quite easily (or frays) or on a blouse in a sheerer fabric. Any sheer fabric I use french seams. If I'm doing denim or casual pants, I usually do flat felled seams. Before the serger I zigzaged seams. If you are worried about fraying on curves, what about a light application of fraycheck ( and I mean light) I don't use a seam finish on knits unless when I stretch it, it starts to run, and I don't do it on fleece. If you don't finish your seams, you run the risk of it ripping open because the fabric has frayed, and its a horrible mess to try and fix! Now of course, there are outfits that are purposely frayed, I am just starting a jacket that will have frayed edges, but it is still sewn with a double needle to prevent fraying too far into the garment. Laura
Tickled pink with my Innovis 4000D |
User: bridesmom
Member since: 01-21-2004 Total posts: 2026 |
From: AndreaSews
Date: 03-21-2006, 10:15 PM (4 of 26)
|
french seams are a lovely finish for sheer fabrics, where some of the workmanship is visible from the outside. Also nice for other light and drapey fabrics--gauze, challis... Best used on straight seams, such as the side seams of a skirt, although I have heard of folks who go right ahead with it in a sleeve application, right around the armscye (I haven't tried that. just reporting!) flat felled seams are great for jeans, and they give them that classic denim-jeans look. The reason they are so good for this is a) it's a strong treatment, made to withstand rugged wear, and b) denim frays like crazy, so by enclosing the seam entirely, we avoid pulling out cottony threads for the (otherwise shortened) lifetime of the pants. It's a bulky treatment, though, so save it for your denim jackets and pants. You'll notice that even your favorite pair of jeans only uses that finish on the outside seam--The inseam is serged in the factories these days. There was an article in Threads recently about making an organza jacket in the style of an old fashioned denim jacket. I think there they also used the flat fell, and that was b/c they were going for a certain look. There are others in your book, I am certain. mock fell, hong kong.... You were right to ask when to apply each. It depends on the appearance you're going for, but also on the bulk. Many finishes add bulk to the seams, which is not always desirable. Have fun! Andrea
|
User: AndreaSews
Member since: 02-18-2005 Total posts: 1007 
|
From: Sancin
Date: 03-21-2006, 10:44 PM (5 of 26)
|
To answer your original question, I finish most seams on garments I sew, except those that obviously finish themselves when cut - eg. fleece. I let the fabric and garment decide for me the type of seam finish. As stated by others I use enclosed seams on sheer types of fabrics, on heavier fabrics, and fabrics that fray very easily (usually loosely woven). How frequently the garment will be washed as well as worn also dictates the seam. Initially, when I made my nursing uniforms I just zig zaged the seams (actually preferred serpentine stitch which I not longer have) but found after awhile that the seams developed little balls of fabric along the seam allowances, which weren't all that comfortable. So at the end of my working life I was using french seams. If I pay a lot for the fabric I want it to look good in and out so use enclosed seams. If you are lining or interlining a garment you need to think about the seams as well. There really isn't a straight forward rule!  I have never used the hong kong method as I have never felt the need. I don't sew on the wonderful wool fabrics like I did years ago (can't seem to find them  ). I have also found that pinked seams are not that great, but I think that has to do with my pinking shears, as I have done a few casual clothes with seams I 'pinked' with a rotary cutter and special blade.Good luck and have fun. The great thing about sewing is the choices and individuality we all have. *~*~*~* Nancy*~*~*~* " I try to take one day at a time - but sometimes several days attack me at once."
|
User: Sancin
Member since: 02-13-2005 Total posts: 895 
|
From: DorothyL
Date: 03-21-2006, 11:21 PM (6 of 26)
|
Before I got my serger I finished most seams with a French seam or a flat fell seam. But after steaming my fingers one too many times with the flat fell I started doing a French seam then top stitching that down. If that was really impractical I used bias cut fabric or bias tape to enclose seams, like a Hong Kong finish. Now I use the serger but, to tell you the truth, I doesn't look half as good and for something that shows -- the jacket that is draped over a chair maybe -- I still put the extra effort into the French seam. I'm one of those Andrea was talking about -- used French even on the set in sleeves. I can't stand a raw edge. I even put an invisible zipper in a French seam. That was a chore, I tell you, only to hear "I don't even have to unzip it. I just slip it over my head." But that's why we have daughters, right? Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: paroper
Date: 03-22-2006, 06:47 AM (7 of 26)
|
There are times when the seam finish is often dictated by what you have on hand. In the days when I was first starting out, we didn't finish a whole lot of seams. Only the most expensive machines had zig zag. If the fabric was a well-made cotton or knit, there just wasn't a problem. If it frayed often people used a flat fell, French, pinked or just a turned (under and sewn) edge. There were also times when we used a bound edge. Oh, how times have changed! It was decades after I started sewing that the serger was introduced for home use and a whole lot longer before women could actually afford to own them. Now I use a serged finish on the edges of my fabric almost exclusively. I don't often use it on sheers and I never use it on fleece (why bother?). I still keep the 5/8 inch seams on most everything I make so I don't often serge the seams as I sew. The flat fell is pretty much a sports or heavy fabric finish. You can even do it in contrast colors for effect. The French seams are considered to be for finer finish fabrics, sheers, silks, etc. If you properly use pinked edges you cut the fabric with regular scissors and pink afterward. A properly pinked edge also has a row of stitching to help support the pinked edge (keep it from fraying). pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: MaryW
Date: 03-22-2006, 10:55 AM (8 of 26)
Oh my, we are showing our age here.  I serge to finish most seams in blouses and pants. If I sew with sheer fabrics (rarely) then a french seam is best. For an unlined jacket I have done Hong Kong finish. I really like the appearance and feel it adds to the piece. I also don't mind handsewing to eliminate raw edges. I did this in the lined yoke of the SandraB. blouse. Serged edges are fine for everyday things but if you want to have a nicer finish for something, flat fell, Hong Kong or french seams are better. I haven't left a raw edge in quite a few years now. MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542 
|
From: Kaitlinnegan
Date: 03-22-2006, 10:57 AM (9 of 26)
|
Thanks so much for the input everyone! It's so interesting to hear how everyone incorporates finishes in their own way. I can't quite justify the expense of a serger yet, but it sounds like the zigzag finish should be fine for most of my applications. I might experiment a bit with French seams on some simple things though, just to practice! I'm also interested in trying bias tape on a couple unlined jacket patterns I have. Thanks again!
http://www.sew-whats-up.com - the new home for Sew What's New
|
User: Kaitlinnegan
Member since: 03-20-2006 Total posts: 222
|
From: mamagoose
Date: 03-22-2006, 01:14 PM (10 of 26)
|
Hi Kaitlinnegan, When I didn't have a serger, I turned under and stitched most of my seams. (The 4-H agent would have a tizzy, she insists the kids just zig-zag and leave a raw, still raveling edge.) Most of the time I don't find that turned and stitched adds problematic bulk, but that is a consideration. For the princess seams, I use a serger mostly, but have still used my old method of laying a tiny zig-zag outside of the seam stitch, doing my clipping (and by the way if you clip alternatively - don't clip the seam allowance at exactly the same place on both sides - you will always be happier with the outcome. The same goes for when you have enclosed seams, such as at a collar) and pinking about 1/8" or more away. Depending on your fabric, you could pink very close to the zig-zag and not clip at all on the curve. You may want to test your finish, by making a sample and throwing it in the wash. On the french seaming for sheers, I sew my first stitching at 3/8", press, press, press, then trim away enough to allow my second stitching to be at 1/4". I just like this more narrow look better on sheers. I am working on a terry chenille robe and used regular-width french seams on it, except for serging the sleeves on. Hope these ideas help you get going! |
User: mamagoose
Member since: 01-26-2002 Total posts: 168 |
From: kameline
Date: 03-23-2006, 10:23 AM (11 of 26)
|
I have found it very important to seam finish everything!!! Especially if you want it to last for very long. I usually only make skirts/jackets... and because so many of the patterns I make have very little ease built in... the seam finish needs to hold up so the garment will move with you, rather than raveling. Usually, my favorite seam finish is to simply do a second row of straight stitch 1/4 in. from the seam line, then I go over the length of the seam with a pinking shears just outside of the second row of stitching. This is best to do immediately after sewing the seam... before you sew the piece of fabric to anything else. It works well, and doesn't take too long, and it ensures long life to my clothes! Do all to the glory of God!
|
User: kameline
Member since: 03-09-2006 Total posts: 41 
|
From: esrun3
Date: 03-24-2006, 09:07 AM (12 of 26)
|
I must confess I'm not good with seam finishing. I always zigzagged if it was anything that would ravel with washing. Now that I have a serger, I serge them-in fact I'm finding that 95% of the clothing I make, can all be dnoe on a serger! So much faster.
Lyn
|
User: esrun3
Member since: 12-02-2004 Total posts: 2345 |
From: guppie
Date: 03-24-2006, 03:06 PM (13 of 26)
|
Uh, ladies--I must be having severe brain drain today! What is the difference between French seams and flat-felled seams? For the life of me I can't remember, and I also can't remember what a Hong-Kong finish is! Can you help restart this foggy memory? Thanks bunches!
Cathy
|
User: guppie
Member since: 12-29-2004 Total posts: 43 
|
From: toastydeath
Date: 03-24-2006, 04:20 PM (14 of 26)
|
I just bought a Yamata FY2000A serger to do all my finishing work, and I use it wherever possible. The speed and precision of it have cut down what used to take me five hours down to little more than forty five minutes. Mind you, I sacrificed a lot of versatility, but the money to be had in cutting down that much production time means a lot of projects that were just too time consuming to make it worth my while to create are now easily sewn. I can now also go with a wide range of heavier fabrics on many projects, because it will serge anything that fits under the foot. |
User: toastydeath
Member since: 03-11-2006 Total posts: 13 |
From: paroper
Date: 03-24-2006, 04:27 PM (15 of 26)
|
For French seams you sew about 1/4 inch from the edge of the fabric, sewing to the OUTSIDE, press and trim the seam. Then you pull it back into itself and sew again anywhere from 1/4-3/8 inch from the finished edge. This encases the raw edges. Flat fell seams are like your blue jeans. The seam is normally sewn to the outside again at 5/8 inch. The seam allowance is trimmed on one side to 1/4 inch. Then the remaining seam alowance is wrapped around that seam allowance and layed over to seal the seam. The seam is the top stitched. If you have a run and fell foot, that is what their usage. I'm not as familiar with the term Hong Kong seam. I think they are bound or self-bound. Someone else can help with that. Sometimes you do things because they are in the directions but you don't know the proper term. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: mommgsews
Date: 03-25-2006, 09:22 AM (16 of 26)
|
Wow! This is a great discussion and I am enjoying it a lot! All of the explanations are really great and even as a "veteran" sewer I am enjoying the refresher. I mostly serge the seam finishes, though I did make several things this past year that I used french seams on. The Hong Kong finish is a strip of bias that is wrapped around the edge of the seam. I have seen quite a few rtw unlined jackets that were finished with the Hong Kong finish in an obviously contrasting fabric. What a fun look for the inside! Thanks everyone for sharing! |
User: mommgsews
Member since: 03-15-2004 Total posts: 73 
|
From: guppie
Date: 03-25-2006, 05:25 PM (17 of 26)
Thanks, Pam you're a doll! The French seam and the flat-feel are very similiar at the beginning but it's the way you finish after the 'outside' seam is sewn, right? Today I can put 2+2 together and come up with 4, yesterday it was only 3! I have done both of these once before but my mind commonly switches directions in mid-thought--oh the bane of this fibro-fog!  And I think you're right about the Hong Kong finish, it is a wrap or binding but just can't remember how it's done. No wonder I love these forums, I learn so much. I don't want to be a 'Lurker' anymore! It's so nice to have other sewing people to talk with and share, something I just don't get enough of in my small town!
Cathy
|
User: guppie
Member since: 12-29-2004 Total posts: 43
|
From: paroper
Date: 03-25-2006, 06:01 PM (18 of 26)
|
Thank you, Guppie! Yes, the difference between French and flat fell is in what you do at the end. I have been known to even sew down the French Seam for some special applications. Who knows what that woud be called? Welcome aboard! There is no reason for anyone to lurk. You all have something to ask or add! We are glad to have you! pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 03-28-2006, 12:07 PM (19 of 26)
|
I have been known to even sew down the French Seam for some special applications. Who knows what that woud be called? Pam, I call it a burn free flat fell, since I tend to burn myself with the iron when I do flat fell seams. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: Marilyn in MD
Date: 03-28-2006, 12:32 PM (20 of 26)
|
I finish every seam except on fabrics that don't need it, e.g. fleece - though I seldom use those fabrics. A favorite is a serger-finished seam. The fabric and use of the garment (pants, skirt, blouse, lined/unlined, etc.) dictate the type of seam and/or seam finish I use. For unlined jackets I love a Hong Kong finish, and I like to make my own binding so that if, for example, the jacket is ever hung over a chair, you can see the lovely binding on the seam edges. I often buy small remnants of various fabrics and make my own bias tape from them; that way I can make the binding any width I choose. I'm making a suit now and will line the skirt, but the jacket will be unlined, so I'm doing a Hong Kong seam finish with bias tape made from the contrasting print fabric that I'm using for cording the princess seams of the jacket, the pockets and the top of the cuff. Perhaps no one else (except the dry cleaner!) will see the seam finish, but I'll know it's there. For the person who asked, the Hong Kong finish is when each seam edge is wrapped (bound). It can be done with simple double-fold, purchased bias tape or you can make your own. I've done it both ways. Sandra Betzina has a photo of a jacket with a Hong Kong finish in at least one of her books; one, I believe, is in "Fabric Savvy". I loved reading the responses this question generated. Marilyn in MD |
User: Marilyn in MD
Member since: 03-13-2006 Total posts: 14 |
From: Sparky
Date: 03-28-2006, 01:52 PM (21 of 26)
|
If you properly use pinked edges you cut the fabric with regular scissors and pink afterward. A properly pinked edge also has a row of stitching to help support the pinked edge (keep it from fraying). While we're on the subject, could you elaborate? Where do you stitch? I have some pinking shears, which I picked up on Ebay. (Hmmm... buy a serger for several hundred dollars, or buy these for $3. Tough call. :up  But I'm not to clear on when or how to use them. I've tried zig-zagging seams, but they look messy and just awful. And I don't have a serger, partly because they're expensive and partly because I have no place to put one anyway! By the time my regular machine, cutting table, and ironing board are set up, I'm out of room. Sparky
|
User: Sparky
Member since: 03-13-2005 Total posts: 94 |
From: paroper
Date: 03-28-2006, 01:58 PM (22 of 26)
|
Straight stitch 3/8 inch from the edge and then pink the edge.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Sparky
Date: 03-29-2006, 11:32 AM (23 of 26)
|
Straight stitch 3/8 inch from the edge and then pink the edge. Thanks! Do you do this before or after sewing the seams? Or does it matter? I'm thinking it would be easier to do this ahead of time. Sparky
|
User: Sparky
Member since: 03-13-2005 Total posts: 94 |
From: paroper
Date: 03-29-2006, 01:44 PM (24 of 26)
|
Sew the 3/8 inch line before you sew the seam. Then sew the seam and cut afterward. You can even leave the seamline together to pink. It doesn't make a difference if the cutting is the same or not. You can press afterward. You do not want to pink before you sew the seam or you may take too much out of the seam allowance.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: kameline
Date: 03-30-2006, 03:57 PM (25 of 26)
|
I found this information on the Hong Kong seam: A Hong Kong seam is a type of bound seam. The raw edges of the seam are encased in a fabric binding, usually bias tape. To construct a Hong Kong seam, cut a bias strip the width of a seam allowance plus 1/4". Place the bias strip on top of the seam allowance, right sides together. Stitch 1/8" from raw edges. Fold the bias strip over the raw edge and around to the underside. From the top side, stitch in the ditch or groove formed by the previous stitching, catching the bias strip underneath. Press seam open. Hope this helps! 
Do all to the glory of God!
|
User: kameline
Member since: 03-09-2006 Total posts: 41
|
From: Dee Dee Warren
Date: 05-05-2006, 08:43 PM (26 of 26)
|
Are there any videos on these various seams? I only know how to zig zag.
Xena the Sewing Princess ~ I have many skills
|
User: Dee Dee Warren
Member since: 04-25-2006 Total posts: 49 
|
Visit Sew What’s Up for the latest sewing and quilting tips and discussions.
This page was originally located on Sew What’s New (www.sew-whats-new.com) at http://www.sew-whats-new.com/vb/archive/index.php/t-18650.html
Sew What’s Up is hosted by ZenSoft