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From: S0met1mesewer
Date: 03-24-2006, 08:06 AM (1 of 19)
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I must have dreamed about this last night. I awoke with a plan on how to make the upholstered cornices that I have been fretting about. Please check this out. The cornices will have a wavy bottom and matching corded piping. I think I have to make a template adding extra seam allowance to allow for the batting, then make the piping with about two inches of seam allowance. Sew the piping to the fabric, pull the piping seam allowance to the back of the cornice and staple. Cover the back with lining material. So far so good? I have to find some instructions. I don’t know if I have to cover the sides separately - then attach. But it seems as if that is what I will have to do. |
User: S0met1mesewer
Member since: 03-15-2006 Total posts: 37 |
From: sew42much
Date: 03-24-2006, 01:53 PM (2 of 19)
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Are you making the front shaped part of the cornice out of 3/4" #2 common pine lumber? Don't sew the piping to the shaped part of the fabric there is an easier way. jean |
User: sew42much
Member since: 03-15-2006 Total posts: 19 |
From: S0met1mesewer
Date: 03-24-2006, 03:37 PM (3 of 19)
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Are you making the front shaped part of the cornice out of 3/4" #2 common pine lumber? jean Hubby says he can get 3/4 inch plywood. Is that what you mean? What is the easier way? Some |
User: S0met1mesewer
Member since: 03-15-2006 Total posts: 37 |
From: AndreaSews
Date: 03-24-2006, 04:07 PM (4 of 19)
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I'm not sure what Jean's thinking of, but I have a way that is easier that piecing it together to apply it in a seam: Instead of buying or making piping, buy or make cording. It has a similar look when finished, but doesn't have a seam allowance for sewing it into a seam. Instead, working from a single piece of fabric, use your scalloped template to trace the border. Next, use a zig zag stitch in a matching thread to couch the cording to the fabric all along the scallops. You might even have a couching stitch on your machine (do the fancy models have that?). Once you've gone all around, you can simply layer your fabric (face down), batting, foam, and plywood or pine board (that's all in order from bottom to top). Next pull the fabric around the edges of the wood, quite taut, and use a staple gun to fasten them. No piece work. I saw Susan Khalje demo making a bi- or tri- color cording on her show, Sew Much More. She used DMC embroidery thread, somehow attaching one end to the bobbin winder on her machine, and using the spinning motion of the winder to twist the threads into a piping that coordinated perfectly with her fabric. It took approx 90 sec. Of course, you can always just buy cording on a spool at the fabric shop, too!
Andrea
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User: AndreaSews
Member since: 02-18-2005 Total posts: 1007 
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From: sew42much
Date: 03-24-2006, 07:46 PM (5 of 19)
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Pine is lighter than plywood that is why I use pine. Of course if your cornice has a drop of greater than 12" you will need to glue & biscuit join the two boards together. Or use osb board that is only 3/8" thick which I am not fond of nor do I use. I create my scallop shape at the bottom of the board. pad it out using firm insule padding from an upholster. Staple the padding on top1" along the width (side to side) & on the returns. Then pull batting taut down the front & onto the 3/4" bottom, staple along that 3/4" bottom edge. Cut with scissors the excise padding off on the inside front bottom edge. Upholster your cornice the same way with your cloth. Then cut & sew you cording on the bias & attach another 3" wide bias cut banding & sew it to the cording. Staple that to the bottom 3/4" edge leaving the cording come forward & the seam line of the cording/band be on the front edge of the bottom of the board Now the 3" part of the bias band goes to the back inside front of the cornice to cover up the staples that you put into the bottom 3/4" & the returns. Cut off evenly on the inside front part & returns of the cornice the bias 3" banding excess. Line the inside of the cornice with lining & where you see the staples, cover with schroll gimp trim. Cover the top with fabric & staple down to the back 3/4" that will go against the wall. Your done. Hang with angle irons & hopfully you will find studs. Ghee I hope I didn't miss anything. Pics are worth 1000 words I am understanding that you are NOT putting a shaped banding at the bottom but rather a cut shape at the bottom of the board not banding. jean |
User: sew42much
Member since: 03-15-2006 Total posts: 19 |
From: S0met1mesewer
Date: 03-24-2006, 08:49 PM (6 of 19)
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Andrea and Jean, Thank you both for all the suggestions. I read through both quickly and haven't digested it all yet. Will print them out and ponder them tomorrow. It has been a long day and I am pooped right now. Happy sewing, Dianne |
User: S0met1mesewer
Member since: 03-15-2006 Total posts: 37 |
From: S0met1mesewer
Date: 03-25-2006, 07:57 AM (7 of 19)
OH NO, DH is having a fit. Says he doesn't know how he is going to anchor this. Plywood will be much too heavy. I am ready to scream.  http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-1/1141484/CorniceShape.jpg I will hopefully get a picture of the two windows taken this morning. In the meantime here is a picture of the shape I want the cornices to be. Jean, yes, your are correct. The board will be cut in the shape by DH. It is good to know from both Jean and Andrea that the cording does not have to be sewn to the body of the fabric. I need to post a picture of the windows to explain why I can't have a few inches on either side of the casement; the cornice has to be right at the edge of the casement(and in the large window attached to the casement somehow. That means that when the drape is pushed open it will be not fully pushed to the side. Maybe Jean's ringed drape that pleats up as it opens would be a better fit. Have to go take a photo of the windows. Note: I plan on making the smaller widow cornice the same height as the big window to even everything out.. I managed to do it!!!! http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-1/1141484/Guestroomwindows.jpg 
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User: S0met1mesewer
Member since: 03-15-2006 Total posts: 37 |
From: AndreaSews
Date: 03-25-2006, 08:30 PM (8 of 19)
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Hmm...how can you open the door if there's a cornice sticking out? Maybe that's solved by making it not-too-deep. Hanging. I have a couple of ideas. Here are sites that help you plan the construction: cornice planning help (http://doityourself.com/info/buildawindowcornice.htm) this one has good pics (http://www.bhg.com/bhg/story.jhtml?storyid=/templatedata/bhg/how-to/data/2761.xml&catref=SC1870) The second link has a nice shot from the underside of the cornice, which gives a good sense of one way to hang them. If they have a cap (a horizontal board across the top), you can use a couple of simple L-brackets (less than $1) to hang from this. Andrea
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User: AndreaSews
Member since: 02-18-2005 Total posts: 1007
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From: sew42much
Date: 03-25-2006, 08:47 PM (9 of 19)
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Ok so what are your questions? What type of privacy is needed? Do you need to open & close these with ease? What type of drape will you be putting on here? I mean does it need to be heavy or can we put sheers on? The cornices will work, a drape can be put on here but you can't have utopia!  Talk a little more, we need answers.  jean |
User: sew42much
Member since: 03-15-2006 Total posts: 19 |
From: S0met1mesewer
Date: 03-26-2006, 08:32 AM (10 of 19)
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you can't have utopia! jean Jean, I am not ready to give in yet. I have the fabric for the drapes. It is the same as the spread and chair, a decorator cotton. The lining is pretty light weight. I may keep both drapes closed most of the time, but will like to open them occasionally. I re-measured the space. The door will open 180 degrees; I wouldn't need it to open more than that. The measurement from the wall to the door, opened to that degree, is exactly 5". The door stop is 4" from the wall. I suppose that can be altered in some way. I want the drape to go to the bottom of the frame, not sit on the sill. The sill juts out 2 1/4 inches. So, if I have DH attach the rod with a type of U shaped holder 3 inches from the wall onto the sides of the cornice, wouldn't the curtain on the small window have enough room to open (he has relented a bit after I talked with a curtain person who says I may not need a stud)? We could make the cornice on the larger windows 5 1/2" deep. It may not be 'kosher' but, as you pointed out, I won't be able to get perfection. NOTE: If I have to I can have the drape sit on the sill. DH would like that so that some of his precious woodwork will show! ANOTHER NOTE: Due to the lack of space on the sides of the windows the cornice will butt right up to the casing on both widows - and on the casing of the right side of the big window. As you can see, there isn't room to extend the cornice out any further. Andrea, Thanks for the sites. I couldn't see a clear underneath shot. I will look again. Thanks for hanging in there with me, ladies. 
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User: S0met1mesewer
Member since: 03-15-2006 Total posts: 37 |
From: sew42much
Date: 03-26-2006, 09:03 PM (11 of 19)
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S0met1mesewer, I tried to upload a picture of what your design would look like on your window but my jpg file was too large. I am able to save the pic you placed here, draw on it, save as a jpg & show you how it would look right in your pic. Yes miracles do happen. If there is a way you can let me email you that jpg I would gladly do it. It would show you the type of rod & the type of pin to place on your drapery top & I would explain how I would do it. The type of rod I am thinking of would be mounted to the underside of the roof of the cornice & would make life simplier. I would make both drape panels for both windows the same length to unify the look. jean |
User: sew42much
Member since: 03-15-2006 Total posts: 19 |
From: S0met1mesewer
Date: 03-27-2006, 06:13 AM (12 of 19)
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Hey Jean, That sounds great. I have PMed you with my E-mail address. I am planning on having the cornices the same size, creating an elusion that the small window is taller. I don't think I'd like making the drapes the same length because when opened I think it would not look that great. But, we'll see. Maybe your photo workup will change my mind. Some |
User: S0met1mesewer
Member since: 03-15-2006 Total posts: 37 |
From: S0met1mesewer
Date: 03-27-2006, 10:29 AM (13 of 19)
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Jean, Thanks for the draft. I think the curved cornices will look much better than the rectangle ones my DH has proposed.  I think I would like the length to end at very bottom of the casement. The rod idea is great. Can I get those anywhere? |
User: S0met1mesewer
Member since: 03-15-2006 Total posts: 37 |
From: sew42much
Date: 03-27-2006, 08:43 PM (14 of 19)
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Oh no you don't want that hem to be seen through the glass when u r walking by the window from the outside. Very unprofessional. Be careful. The rod is a split draw traverse rod & this particular brand will give you the diversity needed to get into a small space. You will be able to make that drape go back & forth with a downward swing of your hand. Ok so how can I get a pic in here anyway?  BTW the cornice return by the arched window, right side can be screwed into the wall it butts against. Or an angle iron on the window trim. DH gonna say ow' Wood trim & men I swear that is one of their body parts. jean |
User: sew42much
Member since: 03-15-2006 Total posts: 19 |
From: AndreaSews
Date: 03-28-2006, 08:57 AM (15 of 19)
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when I did this, I recall a couple of choices for rods, both available at the local home dec shop. I chose the cheap route, which is also sturdiest, since it's for my young daughter's room: these little wooden dowel holders that screw into the (in)sides of the cornices. They're about $2. You cut a dowel to be exatly the length of the space between them, and you slip the dowel into the space. The home dec dowels cost a LOT, so I then went to a hardware store and picked up a $5 dowel that was plain and simple, and also smaller. For drape lengths, there are 5 standard choices and you get to pick, of course: down to the top of the sill, down to the bottom of the window moulding, down to the top of floor moulding, down to the carpet, or pooling in that way that only drapes can get away with (you'd trip if they were pants!). Do it the way that you like, and enjoy it always.
Andrea
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User: AndreaSews
Member since: 02-18-2005 Total posts: 1007
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From: S0met1mesewer
Date: 03-28-2006, 06:22 PM (16 of 19)
 Jean , Did you get the E-mail I sent last night? It read: I think that looks terrific. It is amazing that you can do that. Did you use some special decorator software? How about if I cheat a little? If I have DH put up the cornices extended out more to the left and right of the small window, but only (of course) more on the left window, the woodwork will then cover the casement. I don't think anyone but me would notice that it is a bit uneven. Is this being anal or just plain ridiculous? Or is it 'allowable' to have the woodwork showing? It sounds as if you do this for a living. That must be such a fun, happy, job. Getting really excited about this. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thanks for reminding me about the view from outside….hadn’t thought of that. To answer your question about uploading pictures to the forum, you have to upload to a service then link to that service from the forum. I chose to use http://villagephotos.com/. It is a free site. I will E-mail you the instructions. Andrea , Thanks for the rod and hem length suggestions. I was out all day and one of my errands was to pick up the rod that Jean suggested. I think that will work out fine for both windows. As for the length I think below the casement would work best for me. Jean and Andrea , This was a very long day and I am really ready to veg. Hopefully, I will be able to spend some time tomorrow sewing. I bought a small, round, unfinished table for that room that will replace the one in the picture, and bought a dark raspberry (matching the berries and one flower) fabric to make a table cloth for it. Plus I got some blue material (like some of the leaves) to make a couple of pillows and some gorgeous trim for one of them. Then I went looking all over for a picture for the room to no avail…knowing me that may take a year or two. I’ll post finished projects as I go along. You gals are great to help. Thanks so much. Some |
User: S0met1mesewer
Member since: 03-15-2006 Total posts: 37 |
From: sew42much
Date: 03-30-2006, 08:41 PM (17 of 19)
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It is allowable to have trim moulding showing & especially in this instance. Afterall you are the designer of your project, it is your artwork. Thanks for the pic posting info I will try that when I get more time. I freelance the renderings as a service. Thanks for asking. jean |
User: sew42much
Member since: 03-15-2006 Total posts: 19 |
From: Carol K
Date: 05-08-2006, 06:34 PM (18 of 19)
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Hi Every one I don'tknow if any one has thought about makeing Cornices out of Foam Core Boards. They are very easy to do...just make scllups on the bottom of foam core or any thing you would like and put your batting and material on them and then just staple the Cornices to the out side of window frame. Another way is to buy pink insalation ( which you buy in home depoe) It is thick and you can cut it to any size you would like or desine it any way you like. Then all you have to do is install your L brackets and the when yourery pretty too done with your cornices just push the L brackets in to the foam and they stay up with no problem..The are light and very pretty. If you have any problem or have any questions just ask me, I am here to help any one. I like to do things that are inexpencively. You all have a Great Day Carol |
User: Carol K
Member since: 01-30-2006 Total posts: 5 |
From: MaryW
Date: 05-09-2006, 08:35 AM (19 of 19)
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Good idea about the foam core. It sounds like you are an interior decorator or upholsterer with your nice ideas.
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542 
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