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From: sewing maven
Date: 04-02-2006, 09:59 PM (1 of 6)
| Any advice on the interior construction of a man's suit jacket? I know that there are pre-made interlinings sold, but I am attempting to make my own out of hymo and padding. I need a picture or somekind of pattern construction guide that will walk me through the steps. Also, does the interlineng extend out into the armsceye or end at the seam allowance? |
User: sewing maven
Member since: 04-02-2006 Total posts: 11 |
From: MaryW
Date: 04-03-2006, 05:55 AM (2 of 6)
|
Hi. I have never tried to sew a man's lined jacket so I can't help. Why not pick one up from a goodwill store and take it apart. That will tell you the whole story.
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542 
|
From: sewing maven
Date: 04-04-2006, 01:43 PM (3 of 6)
| Unfortunately, Taking apart a jacket that had been bought "off the rack" won't help me as the construction for ready to wear is different from a custom tailored suitcoat. I know how to pad stitch in a pre made interlineing - I need to know how to create a custom interlineing. Thanks for the thought though - it is nice to know that some one out there is listening! Fond regards, Lisa |
User: sewing maven
Member since: 04-02-2006 Total posts: 11 |
From: MaryW
Date: 04-04-2006, 01:53 PM (4 of 6)
|
Of course I'm listening. Maybe if you contacted Judy Barlup at www.uniquetechniques.com MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542
|
From: paroper
Date: 04-04-2006, 08:41 PM (5 of 6)
|
It is cut away at the seam lines and pad stitched to the garment. Mine shows it cut away before it is applied. However, I was taught to cut it away later, after the pad stitching. After that you run a row of seam tape around on the seamlines and down the roll line of the garment (roll lines are done by hand). It has been so long I had to make sure. When pad stitching it to the garment you roll the garment as it will lay when it is worn, as in areas where the lapel folds back, etc. In men's garments, haircloth is recommended. In women's they recommend soft canvas instead. Domette is cut to go over the haircloth but is not needed on ladies' garments. After the final construction is completed, the pad stitching is cut away. The book I used to double check the method was Ann Ladbury/s "The Sewing Book", Longmeadow Press, reprinted 1991. I'm glad I checked because I never can remember (if it ever knew) what the interlining fabric is called that is used in men's suitings, I just know it when I see it. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: sewing maven
Date: 04-06-2006, 04:25 PM (6 of 6)
|
Thanks for all the great hints! Things I have learned in the past few days: There are many weights of goat hair or hymo that can be used as interlineing depending on the weight of the fashion fabric. How many layers of hymo used and if you need a variety of weights in the layers also depends on how much drape you want. Pad stitching takes a long time, and even if you have basted the edges, will cause the layers to "shift" as you roll the hymo as you are pad stiching. Most of the small ripples can be steamed out, but you need to use a tailors ham with an industrial iron OR really work hard with a home iron! Waxed thread works best. I threaded 5 needles at a time, waxed and ironed the thread and then as I worked I didn't have to stop to press the thread. Fond Regards. Lisa the Sewing Maven! |
User: sewing maven
Member since: 04-02-2006 Total posts: 11 |
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