Sew What’s Up Presents
The Sew What’s New Archive
This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and
quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was
retired in August 2007. It is being provided by
“Sew What’s Up,”
which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: GFranklin
Date: 04-11-2006, 08:45 PM (1 of 5)
|
I am working on a camisole from the Sew Beautiful Lingerie book. I made the small size, figuring it would be a little too big, but it swallows me--I want to know the best way to alter the pattern to fit. Do I just take the amount out of the front and back on the center fold line? Or do I take the amount from the center and from the side seams? There are no darts, no sleeve insets, just two pieces. It is a truly simple pattern, but before I make the alterations I would really appreciate your input.
Gayle
|
User: GFranklin
Member since: 07-04-2004 Total posts: 101 |
From: AndreaSews
Date: 04-12-2006, 03:07 PM (2 of 5)
|
just 2 pieces both cut on the center fold? it depends. I hear you that it's way too big. first look at the neckline. is it way too wide, placing the shoulders too wide? If the shoulders are one inch too far over each, then when you lay out the fabric next time, move the pattern so that it extends past the fold by a half inch. That will make the whole neckline smaller, narrower, and bring in the shoulders. If the neckline is already fine but the armhole and beneath are the area of concern, then you would lay the pattern out the same way next time, but not go out as far. You may need to alter the amount of the curve in the armhole, right above the side seam. To figure that out, look at how the angles change on the original pattern when you compare the different sizes. Try to follow that trend when you re-draft that part of your own "extra small" pattern piece. Does that help?
Andrea
|
User: AndreaSews
Member since: 02-18-2005 Total posts: 1007 
|
From: GFranklin
Date: 04-12-2006, 08:09 PM (3 of 5)
Thanks, Andrea! If this had been a more complicated pattern, I probably wouldn't have had as much difficulty figuring out how to re-draft it. Funny, the simplest things always turn out to be the hardest sometimes  I knew the pattern would be a bit big, but this was huge--nearly 4 inches overall too big around; however, the length and neckline were fine once I pinned the thing up the back and front! But I did get to try out new heirloom techniques and that was the point anyway. So, after I finish embroidering my Easter gifts (nothing like waiting till the last minute) I will re-do the camisole.
Gayle
|
User: GFranklin
Member since: 07-04-2004 Total posts: 101 |
From: paroper
Date: 04-13-2006, 08:56 AM (4 of 5)
|
4 Inches should equal about 2 pattern sizes or one inch per quarter (pattern piece). That amount can be rather deceptive though because we tend to pull up the ease when we talk about something being WAYYYYY too big. If you pull out a three size pattern, you'll see that they alter on the sides of the pattern. Messing with that neckline is usually a no no. With each size change they usually raise the shoulder slightly (changing the neckline slightly and overall move the pattern out. The amount they move depends on how much change you need. My guess is that the easy way would be to pinch up your changes vertically running from the shoulder down. The dart will need to be changed and adjusted accordingly. Again, look at one of your 3 size patterns to determine the relationship of the dart to the rest of the garment when that side is changed or better yet, just mark the opening of the dart and fit it to your body to determine the depth of the dart. When you take that tuck, you'll also need to adjust and straighten the shouder. The redraw will probably be a little higher than your tuck and a little lower than the original shoulder height. If you have a favorite pattern that fits you well, you may be able to overlay the large pattern and redraw according to the pattern that fits. That will make your redraw very easy.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: GFranklin
Date: 04-15-2006, 05:24 PM (5 of 5)
I believe I see what you are talking about. I just pinned up down the center front and back, and tried it on for size. It looked better and didn't change the look much. However, when I pinned down both sides, it was obvious that the pattern will have to be re-drawn to incorporate the changes to the way the top edge flows into each side. The strap placement is good and the center lines are right on target, as well as the length. It is just that there is much to much ease...unless I want to take a friend along with me  I'll play with it both ways and let you know what happens.
Gayle
|
User: GFranklin
Member since: 07-04-2004 Total posts: 101 |
Visit Sew What’s Up for the latest sewing and quilting tips and discussions.
This page was originally located on Sew What’s New (www.sew-whats-new.com) at http://www.sew-whats-new.com/vb/archive/index.php/t-18898.html
Sew What’s Up is hosted by ZenSoft