From: bridesmom
Date: 04-16-2006, 12:58 AM (1 of 26)
I am finding that when I start sewing on a seam, that I am getting a bit of loops and knots on the underside of the seam, just with the first few stitches. I think I've always had that happen, but have just really started to notice it, what the heck am I doing to make that happen? Am I supposed to be holding the threads behind the machine foot as I start sewing the seam, so they don't loop up? It's the only place that this happens.
Laura
Tickled pink with my Innovis 4000D |
User: bridesmom
Member since: 01-21-2004 Total posts: 2026 |
From: esrun3
Date: 04-16-2006, 01:11 AM (2 of 26)
Your threads should be pulled to the back and I often hold them just a little-not tight but enough tension so I know they are in the back and out of the way. I'm sure someone else will be along with other ideas to try too.
Lyn
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User: esrun3
Member since: 12-02-2004 Total posts: 2345 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 04-16-2006, 07:03 AM (3 of 26)
Laura, I do the same thing -- just out of laziness -- not bothering to hold the threads back so they get tangled up in the seam. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: mamahoogie
Date: 04-16-2006, 09:45 PM (4 of 26)
About 30 years ago I complained to my sister about the same thing and she told me to use a scrap of fabric before and after each seam. Now I never have to worry about holding on to the threads (which I never seemed to remember to do) and it saves a ton of thread. Violet I've decided to live forever - so far, so good.
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User: mamahoogie
Member since: 12-25-2002 Total posts: 461 |
From: bridesmom
Date: 04-17-2006, 01:14 AM (5 of 26)
Oh I like that Violet, works with my laziness!
Laura
Tickled pink with my Innovis 4000D |
User: bridesmom
Member since: 01-21-2004 Total posts: 2026 |
From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 04-17-2006, 11:19 AM (6 of 26)
My Kenmore that I bought in the early 70's told me in the manual to hold the threads to start stitching every seam or else they would knot up underneath the seam and boy did they ever ! ! I do not have to do that with my Janome that I have now unless it is a knit fabric.. (I don't know what difference that makes, but it happens).. Now that I have a coverstitch machine as a companion to my serger, I no longer have to worry about that.. Janome no longer sees the knits..
Sew With Love
Libby |
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002 Total posts: 2022 |
From: mamahoogie
Date: 04-19-2006, 05:05 PM (7 of 26)
I cut a piece of scrap fabric about 2" x 3" and fold it half and that's what I use as a starter scrap. That seems to be the best size for me. I don't have to worry about holding threads at all. I have several of them on the go and when one gets too full of thread I just toss it. Violet I've decided to live forever - so far, so good.
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User: mamahoogie
Member since: 12-25-2002 Total posts: 461 |
From: bridesmom
Date: 04-20-2006, 01:42 AM (8 of 26)
I'm curious, those of you that use the little fabric square at the beginning, do you then do a backstitch when you are on the main fabric to secure the end of the threads? Otherwise, how do you stop the seam from pulling open?
Laura
Tickled pink with my Innovis 4000D |
User: bridesmom
Member since: 01-21-2004 Total posts: 2026 |
From: HeyJudee
Date: 04-20-2006, 07:28 PM (9 of 26)
Laura, I learned the trick of using a scrap to start sewing when I was doing assembly line piecing for making quilts. We don't do any backstitching since we will be sewing all the seams together. But when making garments...Yes, I would probably do a couple of backstitches at the beginning and end of the garment seam. I always keep a few scrap pieces at the machine. I start with one and when I am finished sewing my pieces I always use another one at the end. The one I end with will be left there for when I need to begin sewing the next piece. Since I was shown this trick...I save so much thread and am no longer frustrated with the thread coming out of the needle, or bunching up, etc. TTFN from
Judy |
User: HeyJudee
Member since: 01-25-2005 Total posts: 1366 |
From: Domni
Date: 04-20-2006, 10:56 PM (10 of 26)
Wow..thank you. I'm definately going to do this from here on in! |
User: Domni
Member since: 03-19-2006 Total posts: 8 |
From: bluebirdie
Date: 04-20-2006, 10:59 PM (11 of 26)
What a great tip! Thanks for sharing! I always forgot to pull the needle thread out long enough so I'm retheading the needle all the time! Will start using scrap fabric this way from now on! - Robin
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User: bluebirdie
Member since: 03-12-2006 Total posts: 139 |
From: paroper
Date: 04-21-2006, 09:46 AM (12 of 26)
Not all machines will do that at the beginning but enough do that it is a pretty standard habit for most people to hold the thread ends when you start to sew. Of course, the other method of using the lead-in fabric works very well too. When quilting, you can actually use the piece before for the lead in fabric and then cut loose the long "train" of pieces.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: wghmch
Date: 04-21-2006, 09:59 AM (13 of 26)
Almost all of these problems have the same cause. Too often, when the machine stops, the operator only rotates the handwheel until the upper thread comes free from the hook. (lower mechanism) At this point, the thread take up lever (up above) has not yet risen to its highest point. Then, when you start again, the thread is manually pulled snug, but it is pulled against the take up lever in its only part way up position. The result is that as soon as the machine starts, (usually straining a bit to overcome the position you have left it in) it is forced to pull extra thread thru the tension off of the spool in order to get to the top. You now have this extra thread with no place to go when you start the seam. The answer is to make it a rule that you never raise the foot or pull out the fabric until you advance the handwheel to the point where the take up lever is at the top. This is what the modern sewing machines do that have "needle up/down programs," and is why they do not have this problem. Bill Holman |
User: wghmch
Member since: 03-04-2003 Total posts: 249 |
From: mozeyrn
Date: 04-21-2006, 10:19 AM (14 of 26)
Is there any specific reason to have your needle stop in the up/down position or just for personal preference? I've used both positions but didn't know if there was a certain use for it (besides doing a lot of sewing that included turns/pivots). Thanks! - Maureen.
Learning something new with every stitch!! Kenmore 16231000 |
User: mozeyrn
Member since: 11-29-2005 Total posts: 349 |
From: paroper
Date: 04-21-2006, 10:29 AM (15 of 26)
I use the needle down position a lot of course for pivots but I also use it when I've got a huge project that I have to stop and adjust like perhaps when doing a full skirt with a lot of tiers or layers and a lot of gathers. Sometimes you have to physically move the project on left side of the machine to help advance it because one hand just can't handle it. I use the needle down position to keep my seems straight in those cases. Most of the time my machine is left in the needle up position. I haven't had a machine that didn't automatically advance to the high take up position for many years but the first thing we were taught in home ec was to advance the take up lever just past the highest point every time we stopped sewing. I never really had a problem with the thread loops. However, I know many seamstresses who hold the thread at the back of the machine. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: wghmch
Date: 04-21-2006, 11:58 AM (16 of 26)
"Is there any specific reason to have your needle stop in the up/down position or just for personal preference?" In addition to Pam's excellent explanation from a sewing specialist's perspective, here is the mechanical reason. The very first mass produced household machine with a "needle program" was one of the early Singer Touch-N-"Tangles." Singer engineers were trying to avoid the very problem I discussed earlier, so they wanted to make the machine always stop at the completion of a stitch. Their primary goal was to get the take up lever to the top, (or barely past it, as Pam said) but they did not design in any alternative. (This was in the mid-60s) As a result, if after the machine stopped with the take up (& needle) in the up position, you tried to rotate the hand wheel to lower the needle on which to pivot, without waiting for 3-5 seconds, the system would immediately take itself back to the up position. Needless to say, this was very unpopular, and most of these devices were disconected within months, and the idea was abandoned. The next mfgr to try this was a Japanese Company called Kauruwa (sp?) in about the early 70s, but they had the sense to use a switch to allow needle up or down, and it caught on fairly well. (Most of these machines were sold in the US by Tacony as "Dial-N-Sew".) Husqvarna followed with the same type of system a couple of years later, and pretty soon almost all of the major players offered a version it on their TOL machines. In almost 40 years in the sewing machine business, almost all of the questions that I was asked the most often could be solved by turning the take up lever to the top when you stop your machine with the intention of removing the fabric. Bill Holman |
User: wghmch
Member since: 03-04-2003 Total posts: 249 |
From: bluebirdie
Date: 04-21-2006, 12:55 PM (17 of 26)
Ah! Understood. It's facinating to know why things work the way they do or did. Thanks for sharing all your knowledge and expertise. - Robin
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User: bluebirdie
Member since: 03-12-2006 Total posts: 139 |
From: paroper
Date: 04-21-2006, 01:10 PM (18 of 26)
That's a much better explanation than the the reason that eveyone each generation of the family cuts the roast in half...because Grandma's pan was too small.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: mozeyrn
Date: 04-21-2006, 02:33 PM (19 of 26)
Thank you very much for the explanations! It just was one of those things "that-make-ya'-go-hmm". - Maureen.
Learning something new with every stitch!! Kenmore 16231000 |
User: mozeyrn
Member since: 11-29-2005 Total posts: 349 |
From: Lazybug
Date: 07-16-2006, 07:08 PM (20 of 26)
I learned a method on another board for avoiding those thread knots or tangles at the beginning of a seam. Plunge your needle in the fabric first, then continue to stitch. The poster said she had done this all her life and never had a problem. Of course, I make sure my threads can be seen at the back and not tangled under the fabric, but it works well for me, too. I'm a newbie on this board, hope I've posted this reply in the right location. |
User: Lazybug
Member since: 07-12-2006 Total posts: 2 |
From: bridesmom
Date: 07-20-2006, 08:53 PM (21 of 26)
Thanks Lazybug and welcome! I tried your little tip today and it worked quite nicely!
Laura
Tickled pink with my Innovis 4000D |
User: bridesmom
Member since: 01-21-2004 Total posts: 2026 |
From: Sewlite
Date: 07-21-2006, 01:56 PM (22 of 26)
What I do is this, hold the threads gently at the back of the sewing foot,reduce the stitch length to aprox 1.8, this saves back stitiching,do a few stitches of this and then increase the stitch to normal use. |
User: Sewlite
Member since: 04-04-2001 Total posts: 37 |
From: bridesmom
Date: 07-22-2006, 03:36 PM (23 of 26)
Another great tip! I started doing that with my quilting, starting out with really short stitches but never figured out that I could do it with seams on clothing (duh!)
Laura
Tickled pink with my Innovis 4000D |
User: bridesmom
Member since: 01-21-2004 Total posts: 2026 |
From: Roy
Date: 07-22-2006, 09:27 PM (24 of 26)
A lazy sage once commented that the most efficient way to get something done was to invite someone who was intellegent and lazy to do it Well, I qualify for at least half of the prerequisites. |
User: Roy
Member since: 04-28-2006 Total posts: 25 |
From: Omakmama
Date: 08-05-2006, 09:33 PM (25 of 26)
Was watching a Fons and Porter program the other day, and one of the suggestions regarding the scrap of fabric before and after sewing a seam was to have small squares of fabric to the side of the machine that you sew together, right sides together. Rather than just using the same two scraps, you keep joining two squares together at a time, thus creating the start of a quilt as you are sewing your clothes or even other quilts. Two sets of two patches sewn together makes a four patch. |
User: Omakmama
Member since: 08-03-2006 Total posts: 3 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 08-06-2006, 08:48 AM (26 of 26)
Smart and lazy, just like the preceding post! Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
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