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The Sew What’s New Archive
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From: mozeyrn
Date: 05-01-2006, 04:18 PM (1 of 8)
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It started out sooo well, then, BLAM, God must have thought I was getting cocky. I decided to make an outfit for my dd - my hands were itching and the pattern seemed like it would be ez enough. Well, the top came out pretty good (still figuring out how this whole bias tape thing works) and then it came time for the pants. I should have stopped at the shirt. I lost count after ripping out the inseam 5 times.  Remind me again, why do I want to sew? The crotch area always looked wrong (crooked). Finally I ripped it out (again), shook the pants and laid them down. How they fell was how they got pinned/sewn. Whoa, are they ever off the grain! But the top came out straight and the pieces were cut at the same time. I measured everything with the selvage line when it came to making sure they were straight, but what happened? Is it easier just to rip everything out and re-do or just buy more fabric and try again? The woman here who helps me sometimes said that I could have sewn the wrong pieces together.I'm mad at myself for letting it get to me (and staying up waaaay too late saying, "I'm gonna figure this out"). - Maureen.
Learning something new with every stitch!! Kenmore 16231000 |
User: mozeyrn
Member since: 11-29-2005 Total posts: 349 |
From: paroper
Date: 05-01-2006, 05:06 PM (2 of 8)
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Did you move the fabric as you cut? Sometimes when you don't have enough space to cut the fabric at one cutting without folding and unfolding, the fabric shifts. It is also possible that the top layer was on grain but the bottom layer was off. It is possible that you sewed the back to the front and the front to the back at the crotch but you should have noticed that because the back crotch will be as much as 1 1/2-2" different on an adult pant...usually quite a bit different even on a child's pant. If that is the case, not only would you have a length difference in the crotch areas but you'd probably also notice some difference in the width of the pattern pieces...that would certainly make you nuts. One way you may be able to tell if that is the problem is that when you hold the top even and look down into the pant, the back of the pant should hang slightly lower than the front. I would think that if they were cross sewn that it would look strange but they'd hang the saem. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Sancin
Date: 05-02-2006, 03:45 AM (3 of 8)
I am glad this came up as I am about to start to draft another pant pattern this week. I can never remember where the straight of the grain goes on pants. I have asked before and can't recall again. It seems to me that I was told to line the grain up with the straight front (or back) seam. Problem is is that that line on me is not all that straight as I have a big tummy. Is the grain supposed to line up with the press line on pants? What am I missing in my mind's picture. Pants have so many dimensions to them. 
*~*~*~* Nancy*~*~*~* " I try to take one day at a time - but sometimes several days attack me at once."
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User: Sancin
Member since: 02-13-2005 Total posts: 895 
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From: paroper
Date: 05-02-2006, 05:21 AM (4 of 8)
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When we took flat pattern we used gingham so that we could determine if our clothing was on the straight of grain. The straight of grain runs in right angles from the floor. The one at the top (which is not the one that you normally see) runs perfect even and parallel with the floor. The one running up and down always runs at a perfect right angle to that one. If you were to make a pair of pants out of gingham you would measure up near the center of the pants and then measure up near the side and draw a line. In the front I would measure across the abdoman. In the back across the center of the hip line. If your pants are correct you would have a perfect straight line across. If not, you would shift the line so that it was straight across. Then you would draw a right angle through that line to establish your vertical straight of grain which is how you line up the straight of grain for lay out against the fabric. If you have a nice flat tush or abdoman, lining the seam up with the front of the pant might make sense, but since people are people and their dimensions are not perfect, the uptimate test is with the floor. In a two-piece pattern where there is a seam near the waistline, you would repeat the process. Honestly, the correct thing to do is make alterations so that the grainline remains straight...which is why I use a gingham or plaid when making full bust alterations.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: mozeyrn
Date: 05-02-2006, 11:05 AM (5 of 8)
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I pulled it all apart last night (got up-close & personal with my seam ripper) and put it back together again - like Humpty Dumpty. I messed up a little bit before so this time they look better. My problem is the curved area of the crotch (is there a nicer way to put it?) - I can't get it even. It's still a little off, and I slowed the speed down. I had made a pair of pants for my dd two months ago (forget which manuf.) that had different pant instructions. It said to put one leg inside the other and then sew together. It was much much easier. Can I use these easier instructions and then go back to the pattern for everything else? I have another outfit to make for my dd (the "themed" project) and would like to make the pants the other way than what's described (the pants look similar). I'll post the pics if my dh will let me install the digital camera s/w on his "work" laptop. Our pc at home is still on the fritz. Thank you!! - Maureen.
Learning something new with every stitch!! Kenmore 16231000 |
User: mozeyrn
Member since: 11-29-2005 Total posts: 349 |
From: paroper
Date: 05-02-2006, 12:50 PM (6 of 8)
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There are many ways to assemble anything and just because you have instructions do not mean they are the ONLY way. Sure, you can always put one leg inside the other and sew. Personally, since many of our pants rip in the seam anyway, I think it is easier with long term repairs. However, if your pants tend to rip in the legs then doing it the other way is easier down the road...I guess it is a matter where you are most endowed.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Sancin
Date: 05-02-2006, 03:54 PM (7 of 8)
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When we took flat pattern we used gingham so that we could determine if our clothing was on the straight of grain. The straight of grain runs in right angles from the floor. Many thanks, Pam. Somehow I knew you would know the answer. I do have gingham that I will use. It seems to becoming harder and harder to find gingham but I do have a big bolt of it. I guess the next problem would be is that one has to ensure that the gingham is sewn straight. I am going to use a pair of RTW pants that fit me well but that I hated to make up the pattern so I am not entirely starting from scratch. The RTW turned out to be a sleezy fabric for summer and too warm, but I did like the fit. Thanks again. *~*~*~* Nancy*~*~*~* " I try to take one day at a time - but sometimes several days attack me at once."
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User: Sancin
Member since: 02-13-2005 Total posts: 895
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From: paroper
Date: 05-02-2006, 04:04 PM (8 of 8)
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You're welcome. Sometimes we get so used to doing the "right" thing that we forget to tell others why we do it. The drape of your clothing on the body is all a product of the natural effect of weight and gravity. Once you think about it, the rest makes perfect sense, what happen when you turn it the cross grain, straight of grain, etc. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
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