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From: Icebreakers
Date: 05-27-2006, 12:16 PM (1 of 10)
I am making a bridesmaid dress for a girl whose upper bust measurement is 43 and full bust is 44.5 DD. The pattern is Simplicity 5074. I have read Kathleen Cheethams instructions but am very confused. If I add 2" to the UB that gives me a measure of 45....which puts her between a 22W and 24W which is also her full bust measure. I know that the patterns are for a B cup so how much am I going to add? I am new to the forum and finally registered but have lurked for a while. I know you may be bored with this topic but I am really confused how to make these measurements fit a DD. Hope this makes sense.  Appreciate any help.
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User: Icebreakers
Member since: 05-27-2006 Total posts: 10 |
From: paroper
Date: 05-28-2006, 01:03 PM (2 of 10)
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I had waited in hopes that someone else would jump on this one. The method that I prefer for this is probably not the one you'd like to hear. I'm big in to doing a test garment before I do the real thing when I know that I've got a fitting problem. This would be one. I purchase several yards of stable (cheap) fabric and I always have it on hand. My favorite is something plaid or check so that I can see the grains easily, but I use a good grade of muslin or anything reasonable. I would buy the smaller size. My guess is that you'll have a better shoulder and neck fit with the smaller size and fewer overall problems. To me the shoulder and neck fit is very important. Then I would so a rough draft of the top portion of the garment just to the waist or hips, whereever I think my problems will end. I would MARK everything well...all dots, squares. I would baste all seams and I would baste the seam allowances of the sleeves and neck because I wouldn't be using those seams but they are important. Then I try the rough garment on the person with them in a slip and underwear. Then, CAREFULLY I slash the garment across from the bust point OF THE PATTERN to the other side. I then slash back toward the arm seams and spread the opening. As you do, you will be able to see where the new center bustline should be. I take pieces of anything...fabric, twill tape, whatever and I pin those to the opening to stabilize the pattern, check for other fitting problems and have them remove it. You now know how much to add and where. If it is a princess, you can see how much to spread at the seamline. On a princess, you just spread, stabilize and that is your pattern. If it is something with darts, you open the darts. You will pick up the "extra fabric" in the darts to accomidate the fullness and make the darts match the side seams; then draw in your new darts to allow for the extra fullness. (All you are doing with darts is making flat material conform to the body shape.) The new dart should end one inch from the bust point so it is important that you mark this when they have the draft garment on their body. I sure that there are non-messy ways to do this but the results from actually draping the body and making the garment to fit them can be so much nicer. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: plrlegal
Date: 05-28-2006, 02:40 PM (3 of 10)
Pam if there is an easier, non-messy way of doing a bust enlargement, I never found it. Everything I made for myself (blouses, dresses, suit jackets, etc. ) up until last July (mamaplasty) had to have a full bust enlargement done on it. The only thing I would add from my experience is to buy your pattern by the high bust measurement (around the back under the arms at the top of the bust). That will give you a pretty close fit for the neck and arm scye area. A lot of people tend to buy patterns for the full bust measurement and end up with neck and arm scyes that are huge and those are really hard to downsize, at least they were for me. I also have a book by Pati Palmer and Marta Alto "Fit for Real People" that has been a life saver for me. It gives diagrams and very detailed fitting for princess style, darted fronts, shoulder and arm areas. It has been worth every penny I paid for it. I still use it even though my bust has been downsized dramatically, due to the fact that I still have the mid-section bulge which bust reduction doesn't cure only enhances it.  Patsy Patsy
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User: plrlegal
Member since: 05-19-2001 Total posts: 318 |
From: paroper
Date: 05-28-2006, 04:06 PM (4 of 10)
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Here is a good thumbnail description of not only full bust alterations but others that can come in handy. New Mexico State has a full library of good information on fitting, choosing fabrics, all kinds of sewing info that I would suggest you explore sometime when you have a moment! http://www.cahe.nmsu.edu/pubs/_c/c-228.html pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: paroper
Date: 05-28-2006, 04:08 PM (5 of 10)
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Here is a link to some of their other wonderful materials. The home extension offices in several states can be a weathy source of information! http://www.cahe.nmsu.edu/pubs/_c/ pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Icebreakers
Date: 05-28-2006, 10:40 PM (6 of 10)
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Thanks again Pam I had purchased some $1./m material to make a mock up as this dress is going to be made from Chiffon. I was hoping for a magic number but no such luck...I'm going to need another fifth of that scotch by the time I finish these dresses. I like your advice 'cause I know it will give the best fit. I did try to get Palmer's Fitting book but it is now out of print as a new one is being released in Sept. Wow! You should see the prices they are asking for used copies of this book...between $85.00 and $115.00. Will wait for the new one to come out. Thanks a lot for your help. Linda (Icebreakers) 
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User: Icebreakers
Member since: 05-27-2006 Total posts: 10 |
From: paroper
Date: 05-28-2006, 10:45 PM (7 of 10)
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You've got fingers crossed for you all the way down in Ok...actually, I know you'll do just fine!
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Orc40k
Date: 05-31-2006, 11:36 AM (8 of 10)
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www.palmerpletsch.com I tried the Amazon thing and got the same result on prices. BUT if you go directly to the publisher it's much more reasonable. I got a very gently used "Fit for Real People" for under $20 plus shipping! I figured it was about time to buy the thing since I couldn't renew it from the local library any more. Took it out too many times and had to wait 4 weeks before taking it out again. |
User: Orc40k
Member since: 06-29-2005 Total posts: 47 |
From: Web6cats
Date: 06-04-2006, 02:24 PM (9 of 10)
| When I took a Pattern Making class at college, we were showed a way to mark a pattern with a grid pattern (first the pattern was copied onto butcher paper to preverse it's original shape). Wherever the adjustment needs to be on your pattern-shoulder, neck, armhole, etc., is easily adjusted by moving the square in that quadrant. In other words, if the bust needs adjusting, you would simply move the various quadrants around the bust area to decifer the proper placement. Then, with a curved dressmaker ruler, redraw the lines around the armsyce area/shoulder line, etc., til it looks right. Many times you can find a print fabric on sale that is cheaper than muslin and can actually be worn after putting the test pieces together to check the fit. And that finished pattern should be saved for the future fitting of other patterns for this person. Gawd, who needs to go through that experience twice? LOL |
User: Web6cats
Member since: 08-14-2004 Total posts: 7 
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From: Sew-Enchanting
Date: 06-05-2006, 05:29 PM (10 of 10)
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I've found the easiest way for me to alter patterns is through Nancy Zieman's ("Sewing with Nancy") slash and shift method. Or whatever she calls it. I read the book a long time ago, but I love the general idea. For me, it's definitely the easiest way. You do need extra paper, but it also saves the original pattern, which I like a lot. It's the "Fitting Finesse" book - old, but good. http://product.half.ebay.com/Fitting-Finesse_W0QQtgZinfoQQprZ702793 Hopefully that works - and it also has a link to ebay sales at the bottom. I had pattern drafting and altering in college and it was much more complicated than this - with similar results. hth - Kris
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User: Sew-Enchanting
Member since: 12-28-2005 Total posts: 53
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