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From: Orc40k
Date: 05-31-2006, 11:24 AM (1 of 9)
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After the gauchos, culottes, elephant pants and Palazzos, how could I resist... I'm making a mother of the bride suit for a friend whose daughter is getting married in Pakistan. The fabric is a very soft drapey rayon. I have the tunic pattern made and need to do the pants. The traditional pants are fitted from the knee to the ankle, but have a huge crotch drop and lots of fullness around the waist. They are usually drawstring, but my client/friend wants elastic. (Which I think is a wise choice.) I have a standard fitted pants pattern drafted to fit her. What modifications would you suggest to make this work? I know I need a longer crotch seam and much bigger waist and hip for the fullness but I wonder about how much of the ease should go onto the inseam and how much onto the sideseam. NB: She is about 5' tall, wears an 18-20, is a square type body and her inseam is 24" Help! |
User: Orc40k
Member since: 06-29-2005 Total posts: 47 |
From: paroper
Date: 05-31-2006, 12:17 PM (2 of 9)
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I wonder if you could just slash from above the curve of the pants in the crotch seam and pivot from about the knee and just crash that whole "mess toward the center?
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Orc40k
Date: 05-31-2006, 03:21 PM (3 of 9)
| I am so not picturing that...can I have horizontals and verticals? |
User: Orc40k
Member since: 06-29-2005 Total posts: 47 |
From: paroper
Date: 05-31-2006, 04:14 PM (4 of 9)
|
It wouldn't exactly be on a an xy axis. If the crotch seam is J shaped, what yould happen if you slashed at an angle toward the knee starting just before the bend of the "j" and then slashed back toward an area just below the knee to allow that whole section to pivot. Wouldn't that do it. As I remember these are large between the legs but fitted at the ankle?
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: paroper
Date: 05-31-2006, 04:18 PM (5 of 9)
|
I'm thinking that you would maintain the outside look of the pant just the inside would be effected. I would tell you to find a pant pantern that is fitted, take the instruction sheet and run several copies of the pattern pieces on the cutting diagram so that you have a small form to work with. We had a doll sized dress form for flat pattern, but this should help. Then cut and slash your pattern pieces to see what creates the effect you are looking for. Although they are not totally in proportion, you could also make them up in doll-sized clothes to see if they "work".
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Orc40k
Date: 06-02-2006, 09:24 AM (6 of 9)
Thanks SOOOO much Pam.  Now I see what you had in mind and from sketching it out on some scrap tissue I think it will work! Which is a very good thing. My friend leaves for Pakistan July 7 and I haven't cut the real fabric yet. She lost a giant amount of weight after I made the tissue for the top and I have to take that in about 2" at each side seam. Her high bust is still the same though, and she's still that magic D-cup.Fun, fun, fun. (Not to mention an anime costume to repair for DS, a quote on yet ANOTHER anime costume and a 12th century dress to do. Oh, and somewhere in there I'm getting married and THAT outfit isn't done either. I see midnight oil in my future!) |
User: Orc40k
Member since: 06-29-2005 Total posts: 47 |
From: paroper
Date: 06-02-2006, 09:26 AM (7 of 9)
|
Just don't stress and you'll get it all done. I find I can do amazing things when I stay focussed!
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Orc40k
Date: 06-21-2006, 03:56 PM (8 of 9)
It's going to be a squeeze to get the pants laid out on what remains of the fabric after the dress. They are not going to be as full as I had hoped. Plus, there's going to be an upside-down U shape at the bottom of each leg that's going to have to have a piece of fabric set into it. The sleeve caps came out right where the legs will end. If these were supposed to be capris that wouldn't have happened. But I guess I can pretend it was a planned design detail.  Although I found an actual "Hammer-pants" pattern in my stash, your slash and spread is going to work a lot better. Plus I'm making the crotch longer by about 2.5" In the commercial pattern, the crotch is almost double the actual crotch length! |
User: Orc40k
Member since: 06-29-2005 Total posts: 47 |
From: paroper
Date: 06-21-2006, 05:16 PM (9 of 9)
|
Sounds fun!
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
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