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From: luvmydogs&cats
Date: 06-04-2006, 09:42 PM (1 of 29)
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After a several year hiatus from garment sewing, I decided to begin again since sewing is popular once more. In the past I have sewn everything from mens suits, formal draperies, sewn for my entire family and took in sewing when the children were small. Well, now, it seems I can't even manage a simple pair of shorts! I purchased a nice easy Vogue pattern for the longer shorts since I am much older and no longer have legs anyone would want to view. Also have put on a bunch of weight. Normally wear a 16 in a good brant rtw, so that's what I got. Well, when I measured there seemed to be a good 10 inches less pattern than there was of me! So I got out a pair of rtw that fit and laid them out on the pattern and added all around, sewed them up and they were huge. So then I took them all apart and took out extra and totally remade them. They still don't fit all that well, but they'll do for around the house. Well, last week I decided to make another pair only this time I removed the extra that I added before and you guessed it-they won't come up over my hips. I used pretty much the same sport weight type of fabric as the other pair. What I am thinking is since this is kind of a reversible fabric could I take out the side seam and add a contrasting strip in there? I don't understand why the second pair is so much smaller after the first came out so big. At this point I am thinking maybe I better stick to decorative sewing and forget this nonsense! Anybody got any ideas? I also might add in my weight gain it is a lot in the waist. I know that a diet is the answer, but at 61 my metabolism seems to have gone south along with my brain! Will appreciate any ideas. Thanks, Nancy |
User: luvmydogs&cats
Member since: 01-21-2006 Total posts: 7 |
From: plrlegal
Date: 06-04-2006, 10:41 PM (2 of 29)
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Nancy so sorry to hear of your bad experience with returning to garment sewing. Anyway. onward and upward. Don't give up. First of all, pattern sizes and rtw sizes have absolutely nothing to do with each other. Garment makers are into the "vanity sizing" big time and it all depends on the garment label as to what size I wear these days. When purchasing a pattern for pants, shorts, skirt, etc., always purchase by your hip size and you can enlarge or shrink the waist measurement. I almost always have to shorten the crotch area aslo because I'm built short and dumpy. If I were you, I would go purchase a pants pattern by your hip measurement and go from there, and I'll bet you'll get a better fit. Patsy Patsy
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User: plrlegal
Member since: 05-19-2001 Total posts: 318 |
From: Sherri
Date: 06-04-2006, 10:50 PM (3 of 29)
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I don't think it is just you Patsy. I was doing a Capris pattern this weekend and ended up taking 4 inches off the crotch length. I of course am built tall and dumpy. Nancy Did you try making a muslin for fitting. I find that helpful to see where I have extra fabric. then I can adjust the pattern. Sher My website
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User: Sherri
Member since: 02-07-2001 Total posts: 357 |
From: luvmydogs&cats
Date: 06-05-2006, 05:15 AM (4 of 29)
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Thanks for the advice. I guess since I haven't sewn in so long I wasn't aware of the different sizing and must admit never looked at the measurements on the pattern-just the sizing. I was aware of the vanity sizes since the larges of 15-20 years ago would be the x-smalls of today. Well, if buying the hip size is the way to go, that won't do much for my self-esteem!ha And, yes, it did occur to me to make a muslin-also to try another pattern(maybe something in a nice elastic waist)! The reason I was wondering about adding a little strip in is because I had planned to make a shirt to match, but am thinking that would then make the legs look like bloomers. I could never have imagined how much trouble I am having-could have done this in my sleep at one time. But I also had a proportinate size then and not a waist as big as a barn. Thanks ladies, will keep trying. Nancy |
User: luvmydogs&cats
Member since: 01-21-2006 Total posts: 7 |
From: MaryW
Date: 06-05-2006, 09:39 AM (5 of 29)
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You will be just fine after a few tries. My daughter is the only person on earth I know that can wear a pr. of pants I make straight from a Vogue pattern. She is a perfect 10. The rest of the world needs adjustments. I often threaten my daughter with big pocket flaps on the butt of her pants, just to tease her. It's the only way anyone would even know she had a butt. MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New |
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005 Total posts: 2542 
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From: paroper
Date: 06-05-2006, 10:41 AM (6 of 29)
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The difference between patterns' sizes and RTW have gotten further and further apart over the years. It is pretty shocking! The patterns haven't changed their sizing and proportions (except there are fewer specialty sizes, remember 1/2 sizes?) since the mid 1960's but the RTW companies have really changed the rules. Just close your eyes, take your measurments. No one but you will think anything about it. When you buy the proper size your frusteration level will change considerably and as you get used to sewing for yourself, the fit and comfort will be worth the trouble. You'll still wear the same RTW size..don't worry, it is only a tag. Fortunately, we don't have to brand the sizes on our custom fit garments.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Patty22
Date: 06-05-2006, 01:49 PM (7 of 29)
Only RTW carries a size 0. I always thought of zero as NOTHING, neglible, NADA.......as if the individual should be INVISIBLE. Now either the public is very vain, or women in general have lost their self respect to even want to be considered ZERO   DD in Midwest wears a size 2 (2?) which transfers to a size 8 pattern. I'm thinking that it is a three/four pattern size jump from RTW to pattern size. I can wear a size 12 in RTW, but (this must be a confession) will transfer to a size 18 and even size 16 in loose fitting patterns......which also includes moving the bust dart down and enlarging for the cup size, lengthening the neck to waist by 1 1/2" and then sometimes making the back smaller. One must be careful to read how the fit of the garment is intended and that information is sometimes given in finished garment measurement at bottom of pattern. I long for the 1/2 pattern sizes days myself and am glad there are a few patterns out there............ Patty
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User: Patty22
Member since: 03-29-2006 Total posts: 1194 |
From: bluebirdie
Date: 06-05-2006, 04:42 PM (8 of 29)
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Same thing happened to me. The first time I made things from patterns, it was boxers. I also didn't realize the difference between rtw and pattern size. So I used the same size in pattern as rtw pants. The final products were very fitting. My husband loves how they look on me But I couldn't really eat or bent while in them. I ended up adding strips to the first boxers to make them practical. After that, I started doing two sizes up for pants pattern.
- Robin
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User: bluebirdie
Member since: 03-12-2006 Total posts: 139 |
From: Sancin
Date: 06-05-2006, 05:33 PM (9 of 29)
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Interesting observations. Personally, I find a greater similarity between RTW and patterns than in the past, but perhaps that is because I wear large sizes. Petite proportions are also something I have to consider in both RTW and patterns and I do find these are better fitting than older patterns. I am pleased both RTW and pattern companies have started to produce more. One thing I find makes a difference in pattern fitting is the ease factor, which is now listed on most patterns. You don't see easy listed on RTW sizes and only notice if you try the garment on. Nancy, if you look at the back of most of the big pattern company books there will be a description of how much ease there is in their pattern as described. For example, a pair of boxer shorts will have more ease than a pair of tailored shorts. It will all come back to you very quickly, because you have experienced fabric feel, something really newcomers have to develop. I know what you mean about the weight gain in the waist. That is where most of mine is and if I buy a pattern (or RTW) for my hips the item may be a little snug at the waist. I tend to stick with elastic waists and sometimes even widen the waist more than the hips to get the fullness the garment requires. After a few garments you will know what to adjust. I have always paper fitted patterns rather than make muslins, but recently bought a lot of fabric to make basic muslins in each type of garment. Just have to do it now. Re adding side panels. I have thought about that with several items but have not tried it yet. I always thought it may make me look bigger, but I guess it will depend upon the contrast. To make it look, not so 'adjusted' and more as planned perhaps some trim or different stitching would work. I think you may want to continue to contrast colours in the jacket as well, to make them seem a planned design outfit. Will you have to adjust the waist in the jacket? Another Nancy 
*~*~*~* Nancy*~*~*~* " I try to take one day at a time - but sometimes several days attack me at once."
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User: Sancin
Member since: 02-13-2005 Total posts: 895 
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From: paroper
Date: 06-05-2006, 07:09 PM (10 of 29)
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I too find that as you get toward the upper end of pattern sizing the sizes are much closer to the same size in RTW.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: luvmydogs&cats
Date: 06-05-2006, 10:08 PM (11 of 29)
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Well, ladies, here is the latest in the "shorts saga". Today I went to JoAnn and searched through the books and checked for measurements, etc. Didn't, however, look for ease. That could have been a mistake. I ended up buying a Sandra Betzina pattern with extra tummy and also option of elastic in back. They look plain as all get out, but I always wear fairly long tops to cover up the bulge anyway. So we'll see how this one works out. There was no size, per-se, just c-d-e, etc. So I got the one with the closest hip measurement. I asked the ladies working and one didn't have a clue about the sizing, but the other did and she also said she has to buy 2 or 3 sizes up. Nancy, yes, I was planning to do some kind of contrast on the top before I messed up the shorts, either sleeve cuffs, pocket, I don't know. Don't know what I'll have to add there-been a long time since I've been down that road as well. I looked at the Sandra B. fitting book, but didn't want to spend the money today. I'm going to Tulsa the end of this month for an embroidery school. Steve Wilson, I think, is the guys name. He is with Anitagoodesign. Thats a whole nother fiasco-me and the embroidery machine and trying to figure out the software, etc. Sometimes I wish I'd just saved my money and kept the trusty old Elna. Wouldn't want the husband to hear that tho! Well, thanks to you all for your comments and suggestions. Any others are always appreciated. Night, Nancy |
User: luvmydogs&cats
Member since: 01-21-2006 Total posts: 7 |
From: Butterflyrf71
Date: 06-10-2006, 08:41 PM (12 of 29)
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I just returned to sewing myself a few months ago. Last year when I got really sick I was down to a Girls 16 off the rack. Since getting medicated (lol), I am a 6-8 off the rack, and I am still gaining. I make patterns to a Size 14 on the envelope. My mind just did not want to wrap around it - from a 6 to a 14? I've always been small (which in no fun at all), I was the "pencil" in grade school, and everyone could see right through me, ha ha. Ive passed the 30+ hump, which means body changes, and now I actually have a tummy, and some thigh, that I can no longer hide - my sweetie loves me just the way I am - no matter what size I am - so it was more in my head than anywhere else. I really hate the way the size on the rack keeps getting smaller and smaller . . . garment sewing gives me so much satisfaction I refuse to buy off the rack if it's not from Goodwill. After wrestling with the size issue, I too find if I make the 14 I still make adjustments somewhere! I also found out, last week, after making the top at 14, that I am a 14 in the bust, and waist, but I have to alter the neckline, or I am wearing off the shoulder shirts (hope the darn thing shrinks in the wash - I plan to heat it up as much as possible). Welcome back to sewing! You Lord, give perfect peace to those who keep their purpose firm, and place their trust in you. Isaiah 26:3, AV
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User: Butterflyrf71
Member since: 05-02-2006 Total posts: 257 
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From: plrlegal
Date: 06-11-2006, 12:52 AM (13 of 29)
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Butterfly to prevent the off the shoulder look, do your high bust measurement and buy your shirt/dress patterns according to that number and then make adjustment for a fuller bust. That way, your tops should fit in the neck and shoulders. Anytime you buy a pattern according to your full bust measurement, you're going to have problems with the neck and armholes being too big. Patsy Patsy
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User: plrlegal
Member since: 05-19-2001 Total posts: 318 |
From: Butterflyrf71
Date: 06-11-2006, 08:21 AM (14 of 29)
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Thanks very much! I will give that a try!
You Lord, give perfect peace to those who keep their purpose firm, and place their trust in you. Isaiah 26:3, AV
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User: Butterflyrf71
Member since: 05-02-2006 Total posts: 257
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From: paroper
Date: 06-11-2006, 12:18 PM (15 of 29)
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That is true if you need a large bust adjustment. If you are a b cup (for most pattern brands), the shoulders usually fit just fine.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Butterflyrf71
Date: 06-11-2006, 03:52 PM (16 of 29)
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I went and checked my measurements, something was niggling at the back of my head about my taking all new measurements (twice) before I began sewing again. I did make the shirt to the high bust measurement; 36". I must have a skinny neck and shoulders. 
You Lord, give perfect peace to those who keep their purpose firm, and place their trust in you. Isaiah 26:3, AV
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User: Butterflyrf71
Member since: 05-02-2006 Total posts: 257
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From: sweetpea1
Date: 06-12-2006, 01:29 PM (17 of 29)
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Okay ladies. You all given such good advice on this garment sewing thing. I've read just about everything I can get my hands on about adjustments, and you all echo what I've read. I'm trying to sew garments too and have heeded all of the advice you all shared here. I've read and read and read on the topic of adjustments. I just can't seem to actually get it down. I get the concepts, but actual application is another story all together. I'm an F cup so I use the high bust measurement, but I just can't seem to make the pattern adjustments so that the garment fits well. I must be missing something. It all seems so hard to me. I only wish there were classes near me that I could take that would show how to do this stuff. I think seeing it first hand might really help. Also someone watching me do it who could at least tell me what I am doing wrong would be great too. Two weeks ago I decided to give it another try and started a summer capri and tunic set with an off-the-shoulder light weight poncho. Well, I got the poncho done with no problems, but it just doesn't seem to fit right around the neck. It kind of bunches up on one side. I don't know. (Maybe its the fabric I chose, maybe its my size or who knows what.) And, I made the capri pants, but even though I used the my measurements to choose the size to make, I was swimming in them. So I ripped out both side seems and took them in and that seemed to help. Then I noticed that the tummy area was really baggy. I thought that once I put the waist band on that might pul;l up on the excess fabric and take care of it. Well, I was wrong and this weekend I removed the waist band and am considering how best to remove the extra fabric from the tummy area. I'm going to take out the front seam and take remove some of the excess fabric. Hopefully that will work out okay. Then I'll reduce the waist band a little and put it back on. Oh ggggeeeeezzzzzz, what an adventure this is turning out to be. The only thing I can say about this project so far is, the zipper went in very nicely and for that I am very proud of myself. I'm terrified of making the tunic, especially since I have had terrible luck with making the adjustments for the larger bust on other items in the past. I love this site and all of the advice all you great sewers have, but don't any of you find its easier to have a coach with you that just reading and trying to do this stuff? |
User: sweetpea1
Member since: 10-10-2005 Total posts: 56 |
From: knitterbetty
Date: 06-12-2006, 04:24 PM (18 of 29)
| This is a fascinating discussion, I've had the same ideas and problems. I bought a pair of expensive unlined linen pants ( with a gift certificate) and decided to copy them. Took a vogue pattern and compared, discovered the linen pants have a longer crotch in the back. They fit me perfectly, so after FOUR tries, and sitting with a tape measure comparing linen pants and my efforts, I've got a pretty similar pair of pants. Two things: the linen seams are double stitched and serged, I sew on a little Singer featherweight so only have straight stitches. Do you think it's preferable to press the side seams open? I always thought that was THE thing to do. I also noticed that they do the inside leg seam, then the crotch seam is sewed together, and then I sew the sides. This seems to make for a very nice fit. Any comments on this? Also, JoAnns has white linen but it seems kind of thin, I was afraid to buy it because I thought my underwear would show thru. I also notice that the pants I bought from J.Jill don't come in white. I wonder if all white linen pants have to be lined or else the panties show??? Maybe some white linen is heavier than others? thanks, Betty |
User: knitterbetty
Member since: 05-04-2006 Total posts: 5 |
From: paroper
Date: 06-12-2006, 06:57 PM (19 of 29)
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I like to do the inside legs seams first and then the crotch for what I consider to be a very good reason...If I rip the pants it will more likely be in the seat than any place else. It is easier for repair. Also, I think it is cool because when you do that you turn one leg right side out insde the other to do the seam. It is usually a much smoother fit in terms of matching the seams too. I rarely see white linen pants that aren't thin. (Just about any other white pants are thin too...you have to been very careful). I have seen partial linings in the pants (like to the upper leg) but it looks like you are wearing a long line panty girdle (yuck). Sometimes they line the pants but that defeats the coolness and movement of the linen. If I do not have a side pocket that interferes, I usually do press the side seam open, but that is really old school. Many mfgs now do not, kind of like serging becoming the rule, not the exception. I do double seam the inside legs and crotch of all pants and overcast (with a serger) those seams. I'm just rough on pants and that makes it unlikely that I'll have any unpleasant experiences. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: knitterbetty
Date: 06-12-2006, 09:41 PM (20 of 29)
| Thanks, Pam, very interesting. I think my age ( 78) is showing... vis a vis pressing seams open! I read instructions about putting the elastic band in by dividing waistband into four, pinning and stitching , then turning it down and stitching again. I really like doing it that way. Any suggestions about finishing those inside seams if one doesn't have a serger and just a machine with straight stitches? Seems kind of overkill, to put binding on a bunch of cotton pants. I wonder if just double stitching and trimming close to the stitch would be adequate. Not perfect. just adequate.. thoughts?? thanks, betty |
User: knitterbetty
Member since: 05-04-2006 Total posts: 5 |
From: paroper
Date: 06-12-2006, 10:32 PM (21 of 29)
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Wow, linen is so bad about ravel....Do you happen to have a good pair of pinking shears? You might try 2 rows of straight stitching and a pink? How about a French seam? I think to guarantee the best wear out of the pants I'd do the long seams in French seams and just bind the crotch where French seams are a little less fun. I've found that the French seams are just too easy and really pretty quick on straight seams like that...and when compared to the price of a serger, you really can't beat them! Betty, at 78 I'd make those white linen pants...and if any even dared to look twice I'd just giggle!!!! Just make a comfy, cool matching linen sleevless vest or longer shirt to go with it and enjoy!!! I LOVE white pants, esp. linen! pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: knitterbetty
Date: 06-12-2006, 11:35 PM (22 of 29)
| Pam, that's a terrific idea about the french seams for the leg seam ! And no one, I can say for sure, is looking at MY butt , so I think I will do just that.. go ahead and make the white linen! Thanks a lot! Betty |
User: knitterbetty
Member since: 05-04-2006 Total posts: 5 |
From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 06-13-2006, 07:45 PM (23 of 29)
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Betty , and everyone else who loves white pants.. A long, long, time ago, we had a lady who had a homemaker show on TV here in Charlotte. Her name was Betty Feezor and she could sew like nobody's business.. She always advised wearing skin toned underwear.. Makes great sense, doesn't it ????? I still do it today.. The only bra I own that is white is one of those that you sleep in..LOL
Sew With Love
Libby |
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002 Total posts: 2022 
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From: paroper
Date: 06-13-2006, 07:52 PM (24 of 29)
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That's a good idea, they won't see your underwear and they'll think you aren't wearing any...just keep them gussing!!!
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: dlc471
Date: 06-14-2006, 10:35 AM (25 of 29)
| I wear a size 14 now. i have lost 110 pounds. |
User: dlc471
Member since: 01-30-2003 Total posts: 6 |
From: MariLynntex
Date: 06-14-2006, 05:24 PM (26 of 29)
| I took an older pair of pants that fit me the way I want them to fit me and carefully took them apart, laid the pieces out on some pellon and cut pattern pieces, marked them BACK and FRONT, laid them on my fabric and cut them out, after adding enough at the top for an elastic casing, and enough at the bottom for a hem. I adjusted the stride to fit ME. I use this pattern now for shorts, capris, and pants. It takes me about 45 minutes to cut out and sew them together. Everything is done on the machine and they look and feel comfortable to wear. I have used every fabric from satin to denim to knits, cottons, and polyesters. MariLynntex |
User: MariLynntex
Member since: 01-05-2006 Total posts: 107 |
From: MariLynntex
Date: 06-15-2006, 12:35 PM (27 of 29)
| Libby, I heard Betty Furness who was on national tv-- who knows how many years ago-- say that same thing, and I am like you, my underwear has been beige, nude, natural (or whatever they're calling it--every year its a different name for every color of the rainbow) since then. It just seems more sensible! MariLynn |
User: MariLynntex
Member since: 01-05-2006 Total posts: 107 |
From: MariLynntex
Date: 06-15-2006, 12:50 PM (28 of 29)
| One thiing I like to do on white pants, if by chance I decide to put pockets in them (highly unlikely for me to do, I admit--I usually put a pocket on a shirt) I cut them out of a flesh-colored fabric, usually thin cotton, because they are much less visible that way. French seaming on leg seams is a very good idea, too, for strong, long-lasting seams. Or make the pockets decorative with double stitching or even different fabrics. MariLynn |
User: MariLynntex
Member since: 01-05-2006 Total posts: 107 |
From: MariLynntex
Date: 06-17-2006, 11:57 AM (29 of 29)
| I wanted some pockets on a shirt of mine, but didn't have enough fabric for them. I went through my scraps and found some fairly large pieces of a fabric with large bouquiets all over it. I think it was chintz and must have been used for curtains or draperies! I cut out two pieces with bouquets and applied some fusible web to the backs of them, leaving spots the size of a pocket with no fusible on each one. Then with some small scissors I cut out the 2 bouquets (about 8" wide and 5 or 6" high) cutting around all the leaf and flower edges very carefully, applied them to the shirt and then satin-stitched all around the edges. I had applied a reinforcing piece of fabric on the top edge where I did not want to stitch the pocket down and I had satin-stitched it before I applied the pocket. Every time I wear that shirt I get a lot of people wanting to know how I did it! MariLynntex |
User: MariLynntex
Member since: 01-05-2006 Total posts: 107 |
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