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From: Orc40k
Date: 06-06-2006, 12:36 PM (1 of 8)
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I drew a custom pattern for a friend and I have never had this happen before. The pattern is for a straight tunic with long fitted sleeves. I adjusted from my general size sloper for full bust. She's 41" at the high bust and 47" at the full. I did D-cup. This raised the front armhole considerably. The sleeve draft has gone crazy. For some reason I can't fathom, the length of the front armhole is an inch and a half shorter than the back. I adjusted for full arm and forward shoulder, set the sleeve center at the shoulder seam and the front side of the sleeve goes 1.5" over onto the back armhole. Which is exactily how much the back sleeve seam is smaller than the back armhole. I know if the distance weren't so extreme I'd just leave the underarm seam mis matched, but this is too much difference. How do I adjust the sleeve and/or armholes for the unbalanced front and back? All help is MOST welcome. Barbara |
User: Orc40k
Member since: 06-29-2005 Total posts: 47 |
From: sewmuchfun
Date: 06-06-2006, 02:14 PM (2 of 8)
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I belong to a yahoo group that Don Mccunn owns maybe you could ask them.. I know nothing about pattern drafting yet.. I just bought his book and am waiting for it to be delivered.. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/How-to-Make-Sewing-Patterns/ Hope this helps Marilyn
Sewforme Stashaway |
User: sewmuchfun
Member since: 07-22-2005 Total posts: 67 |
From: MartySews
Date: 06-06-2006, 02:41 PM (3 of 8)
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With the forward shoulders, I would think that you would need to add more width across the back and make the armholes a little deeper and the back a little longer. I'll check my book "Fit for Real People" and email you. Happy Stitching! Marty 
It takes one moment to change a life.
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User: MartySews
Member since: 02-23-2003 Total posts: 504 
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From: Orc40k
Date: 06-06-2006, 04:37 PM (4 of 8)
| If you can find it in Fit for Real People tell me what page. I have the book too. I did high round back, full bust, forward shoulder adjustments. But the front armhole seam is 10 " and the back armhole seam is 11 3/4". Unless I seriously unbalance the sleeve cap, the underarm sleeve of the seam and the underarm sleeve of the garment are not going to match. |
User: Orc40k
Member since: 06-29-2005 Total posts: 47 |
From: paroper
Date: 06-06-2006, 04:42 PM (5 of 8)
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I think the clue to your answer is in your question. You raised the bust. I always split on the original bustline (well below the arm holes) and pivot the opening (lower) to accomidate the bust. Then the extra fullness at the sides is buried in the darts. This matches the natural growth of the ample endowment which is more likely to be lower than a smaller bustline. Is there any buckle in the pattern? If not and there is ample space everywhere you may just be able to hollow out the armhole so that the front matches the back. You also may be able to just open up the side seam and add to the dart (which may be all it is missing) if there is some buckle at the bustline. I'd probably start by basting in the sleeve to see how it fits and go from there. I often drop the armhole to accomidate my arms. Look for rolls in the fabric. They'll point to the problem (if there really is one.)
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: MartySews
Date: 06-06-2006, 05:07 PM (6 of 8)
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In Fit for Real People, the sleeve cap rotation on page 172 may help you get your sleeve seams lined up correctly. Also, you may want to look at page 147 to line up your side seams. With over 5 inches to be adjusted for the bust, she may need more room than a D cup would allow. Hope this helps. Marty
It takes one moment to change a life.
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User: MartySews
Member since: 02-23-2003 Total posts: 504
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From: Orc40k
Date: 06-07-2006, 12:10 PM (7 of 8)
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Thanks to all of you. Marty, I found the cap rotation this morning, pinbasted the sleeve that way and all was well. Pam, I started by lowering the armholes a bit after reading your post, then I adjusted the curve on the front. My bust adjustment did move things down and out, so that wasn't the problem. Between those adjustments and the cap rotation it now fits and hangs correctly! Marilyn. I joined the list. Thanks for the suggestion. I can learn a lot participating there. (So many lists, so little time.) |
User: Orc40k
Member since: 06-29-2005 Total posts: 47 |
From: paroper
Date: 06-07-2006, 12:23 PM (8 of 8)
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Good JOB Marty!!! Sometimes when there are multiple adjustments it can almost seem insurmountable! I'm so glad that you got everything lined out, Barbara. I used to sew for a very nice lady who had a terrible dowagers' hump. Because of the problem in the back of her clothing, the front was "caved" and she was a bit "gifted" in the front too. It was always like solving a mystery when it came time to sew for her. It sure makes you a better seamstress though! pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
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