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This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was retired in August 2007. It is being provided by “Sew What’s Up,” which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: Kaitlinnegan
Date: 06-08-2006, 11:35 PM (1 of 6)
Hi everyone! Well, the time is drawing near -- about 4 weeks to go until the wedding! I have bought almost all my fabric, although I still have to go out again for the underlining as I ran out of coupons at Joann's. After much deliberation, I decided on cream cotton sateen from Joann's. I also bought some Egyptian cotton for the lining -- it is so soft! However..haven't started the dress yet. I did some work on the muslin tonight, and I think things will come together soon. Anyway, getting to the point, I found this picture of some pleated trim:

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i231/kemartin2/greensatinondress.jpg

I was wondering if you guys would have any suggestions of how to do a pleated trim like this. I would probably only do 1 row or possibly 2, at the hem. Thanks again for your help, everything! You have been lifesavers!
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User: Kaitlinnegan
Member since: 03-20-2006
Total posts: 222
From: paroper
Date: 06-09-2006, 10:43 AM (2 of 6)
The fabric needs to be very light weight. I don't know if you could use ribbon or not, if you couldn't you'd need to double the fabric so that you have a folded edge. I'd cut the fabric on the straight of grain.

You could do it with the box pleat version of a perfect pleater but it is expensive, quick but expensive. With that you just quickly insert your fabric on both sides of the box pleat, press and pin.

http://www.clotilde.com/cl/product_group.asp?listtype=search&searchterm=perfect+pleater&go.x=3&go.y=5&dept_name=Search+Result%3A+perfect+pleater&g_id=532015V

I'm guessing but you could probably take some white cardstock or something of that heft, mark the center with something that WON'T rub off on the fabric. then cut both sides equal distance from the center, Put your template on the fabric and fold both sides toward the center line, press, pin, repeat.

When you are finished, run a line of basting around the edges to keep all the pleats in place. Then you can attach it the garment, add a top trim of some type and go on.

You can use a good ruffler for smaller knife pleats but it doesn't do box pleats and as you stretch them out they do not meet in the "center" at the back.
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: Patty22
Date: 06-09-2006, 06:36 PM (3 of 6)
It looks as though the dress is showing several different types of embellishment - a sampler of sorts. Which one are you thinking of applying?

To me, it looks like the bottom box pleated row of satin has double faced satin ribbon that is rusched covering the raw edges on top. If you need to seam the fabric that is used in the box pleat in order to get it long enough, remember to make sure the seam line is on the bottom of the pleat so it is hidden. I'd probably finger press or use a very cool iron when pinning and getting your pleats made. Making the template out of a heavy stock paper would really cut down the measuring time mucho grande.

These different trims could be very bulky and pull on your dress if the fabric isn't stable enough to stand the weight just as Pam was saying. Your trim just needs to compliment the body of your dress and flow with it. If you can get the weight issue figured out, it will be stunning.
Patty
User: Patty22
Member since: 03-29-2006
Total posts: 1194
From: Kaitlinnegan
Date: 06-14-2006, 12:58 AM (4 of 6)
Sorry I've been MIA! I've been busy ironing yards and yards of fabric.. The dress will be underlined with a cotton broadcloth-type fabric -- do you think this would help with the problem of the trim being too heavy? I was thinking either knife pleats or box pleats might look nice. Would knife pleats be easier to do without a pleater? I was thinking I could probably find a fairly lightweight satin fabric or ribbon to do this and my sash out of.

I was also wondering how to attach the trim -- Patty, you thought in the picture they used ribbon to cover the raw edges.. Any other ideas? The dress will be very simple -- I'm doing a two piece design with little off the shoulder sleeves on the bodice. The skirt will be pretty full with princess seams, and it will be tea length. I'm not planning on doing a lot of embroidery or beading (but might if it seems like it needs it when I'm done) -- I was thinking just a simple green sash at the waist, then possibly this pleated trim or something else at the hem. Thanks again for your help!
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User: Kaitlinnegan
Member since: 03-20-2006
Total posts: 222
From: paroper
Date: 06-14-2006, 04:51 AM (5 of 6)
The very top stripe looks to be just plain satin or whatever the trim fabric will be...it is probably a ribbon.

The second stripe is sewn in the center and I don't see a trim.

The third stripe is sewn at the top. I can't see what the top of the trim is but it is small. I'd probably buy a small braid to put across there. The top of the thing almost looks zig zaged or like a tiny ruffle (don't think it is a ruffle). I think a small braid would do well there.

The fourth stripe is sewn in the center and has something across the center. It looks like a dull finished ribbon. If this is done with satin ribbon, they may have just used a smaller ribbon and turned the ribbon over.

THe last stripe is sewn at the top. THe top of that piece has a rough finish. Most stores have a trim that looks like folded ribbon. It is about 1/2-3/4 inches wide and will come on a little spool like ribbon but will be found with the laces. It sticks up in little pyramids. It is a common trim but I have no idea what it is called. My guess is that is the trim at the top of this pleat.

If you will notice, each trim is a little wider than the last. The top stripe might be 3/8-1/2 inch wide. The next ruffle looks to be about twice that size, the next maybe 1/2 inch longer....
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: MaryW
Date: 06-14-2006, 08:48 AM (6 of 6)
One of the old Singer books shows how to make all sorts of pleated trim.
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005
Total posts: 2542
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