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The Sew What’s New Archive

This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was retired in August 2007. It is being provided by “Sew What’s Up,” which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: Dee Dee Warren
Date: 06-09-2006, 07:31 PM (1 of 22)
I have heard this mentioned... is there any pictoral tutorial out there on how to do these? I am starting from complete cluelessness, but would like to learn.
Xena the Sewing Princess ~ I have many skills
User: Dee Dee Warren
Member since: 04-25-2006
Total posts: 49
From: AndreaSews
Date: 06-09-2006, 07:57 PM (2 of 22)
There are many :) Here are two.
specifically flat fell (http://www.sewing.org/enthusiast/html/el_sewamflatfell.html)
overview of seam types (http://simplicity.com/index.cfm?page=section/classroom/teachingTools_seamBasics.html)
Andrea
User: AndreaSews
Member since: 02-18-2005
Total posts: 1007
From: Butterflyrf71
Date: 06-10-2006, 12:14 PM (3 of 22)
I like this site for visual help -

http://www.sewneau.com/how.to/flat.felled.seam.html.

They use contrasting color to show you, which helped me.

Basically, you trim the one side of the seam, leaving the other longer.

Fold the longer one in half over the smaller one.

Pin and press to the shorter side, and sew again, edgestitching, or following the pattern allowance.

The side you trim depends on what you are sewing, and where in the garment/etc.

Hope this makes sense!
You Lord, give perfect peace to those who keep their purpose firm, and place their trust in you. Isaiah 26:3, AV
User: Butterflyrf71
Member since: 05-02-2006
Total posts: 257
From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 06-10-2006, 04:01 PM (4 of 22)
I remember when I took Home Ec (in the dark ages) our teacher said look at a man's shirt side seams and that would tell you whether it was quality or not, by the way the f f seams were folded.. If both were folded toward the back of the shirt , that was top quality.. You know, all these years later, I still look when I am shopping.. LOL
Sew With Love
Libby
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002
Total posts: 2022
From: DorothyL
Date: 06-10-2006, 05:05 PM (5 of 22)
Libby --
I thought flat fell went to the front and the right. Or is it the left?
Dorothy
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002
Total posts: 3883
From: Butterflyrf71
Date: 06-10-2006, 07:49 PM (6 of 22)
I have no idea which way is correct, or if both are correct. I've done them in the back for silky fabrics, and the front for jeans. I was taught both ways in High School.

Now you have me wondering if I did them wrong, lol. I'll have to call that Home-Ec teacher and complain!

Shirts, I do to the back. Jeans, to the front.

I guess it all depends on where you learn . . . . .
You Lord, give perfect peace to those who keep their purpose firm, and place their trust in you. Isaiah 26:3, AV
User: Butterflyrf71
Member since: 05-02-2006
Total posts: 257
From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 06-12-2006, 11:46 AM (7 of 22)
My Ex always had to make a tuck at the sides of his shirt to tuck into his pants at the waistline and he always said the tucks were neater looking when the seams went to the back.. Personally , I don't think it makes that much difference. I just remember vividly Mrs. P. being so adament about it.. It could have been her opinion.. But I do judge a shirt Cheap ! if one seam goes one way and the other side goes the other..! ! !
Sew With Love
Libby
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002
Total posts: 2022
From: stephi
Date: 06-12-2006, 12:18 PM (8 of 22)
I am glad you asked deedee because I have been clueless!!?? I have all kinds of little k=names for stuff like this particular trick I call the poormans keep the edges from freying fix....I cant quite afford a surger yet so that is what I say out loud to myself (only when hubby is in the room) when I do this :dave:
Stephi

"No body knows what it is that I do until I dont do it"

"if you do what you have always done you will get what you have always gotten"
User: stephi
Member since: 03-17-2006
Total posts: 361
From: MaryW
Date: 06-12-2006, 12:24 PM (9 of 22)
I just finished up a jean jacket with flat fell seams. The side seams were stitched to the back and the armhole seams were stitched to the body.
MaryW
owner/editor of Sew Whats New
User: MaryW
Member since: 06-23-2005
Total posts: 2542
From: paroper
Date: 06-12-2006, 10:54 PM (10 of 22)
My daughter just bought me an expensive pair of "college" logo flannel PJ pant bottoms (her first for the university she'll attend...we've bought all this time for its rival...ooops). She got them at the end of May for a graduation present. Anyway, they had a "flat fell" seam on the sides and at the crotch and a "plain" serged seam at the inside leg seams. She had a long rip. When I started looking, the rip was in the flat fell (Murphy's Law?) When I repaired it, I found that it was some sort of a cover stitch. The seams were "matched" (in this case missmatched), folded together to the side and had what looked like a 2 thread coverstitch holding them together. Talk about shoddy work!!!!! I'll be expecting these pants on my table...often!!!
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: weezyrider
Date: 06-13-2006, 11:27 AM (11 of 22)
Good for all of you! I was beginning to think that unless you did couture sewing no one knew what a flat-felled seam was! I've got a Laughing Moon Victorian dress shirt that called for them. I'll mention a flat-fell or French seam and get a puzzled look.

Weezy
User: weezyrider
Member since: 08-19-2003
Total posts: 218
From: MrsSnuggly
Date: 06-15-2006, 11:11 PM (12 of 22)
Well even better I thought it was "flat felt" seam - like so you don't feel it. I believe its the exact opposite of a french seam. As far as I know (which isn't far) these are the basic seams to prevent fraying - pre-serger. AKA the old fashioned way to do things. I have to admit that I prefer the way these 2 seams look than a serged seam - especially if its on the outside.....oh well. I still sew the old fashioned way - i only recently found out there was such a thing for my schnazzy super exoensive machine as a ruffling foot......Yes thats right. i gather and ruffle BY HAND. :sad:

Anyhoo - my impression is the flat felt (?) seam is usually on men's shirts, jeans, that sort of theing and more heirloom type things or "boutique" if you will have french seams.
Brandy~
User: MrsSnuggly
Member since: 05-21-2006
Total posts: 104
From: paroper
Date: 06-15-2006, 11:49 PM (13 of 22)
I always think of flat fell as a sports or tailored finish. I think of French seams as a fine fabric finish.
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: DorothyL
Date: 06-16-2006, 06:44 AM (14 of 22)
Flat Fell seams are very strong since there is no pull on them.
Dorothy
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002
Total posts: 3883
From: Dee Dee Warren
Date: 06-18-2006, 07:39 PM (15 of 22)
Thanks guys I will check out those links, I likely will have questions after that.
Xena the Sewing Princess ~ I have many skills
User: Dee Dee Warren
Member since: 04-25-2006
Total posts: 49
From: Dee Dee Warren
Date: 06-19-2006, 07:14 PM (16 of 22)
There are many :) Here are two.
specifically flat fell (http://www.sewing.org/enthusiast/html/el_sewamflatfell.html)
overview of seam types (http://simplicity.com/index.cfm?page=section/classroom/teachingTools_seamBasics.html)

That first instruction seems easy!!!! But I have a question

"Place wrong sides together to sew seam. Seam allowance is 1/2 inch."

Why 1/2 inch? Why not 5/8???
Xena the Sewing Princess ~ I have many skills
User: Dee Dee Warren
Member since: 04-25-2006
Total posts: 49
From: Dee Dee Warren
Date: 06-19-2006, 07:18 PM (17 of 22)
I like this site for visual help -

http://www.sewneau.com/how.to/flat.felled.seam.html.

They use contrasting color to show you, which helped me.

Basically, you trim the one side of the seam, leaving the other longer.

Fold the longer one in half over the smaller one.

Pin and press to the shorter side, and sew again, edgestitching, or following the pattern allowance.

The side you trim depends on what you are sewing, and where in the garment/etc.

Hope this makes sense!


That is very helpful, thanks!
Xena the Sewing Princess ~ I have many skills
User: Dee Dee Warren
Member since: 04-25-2006
Total posts: 49
From: paroper
Date: 06-19-2006, 07:52 PM (18 of 22)
I've always used 5/8 inch seams. This would just be a little narrower than mine.
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: weezyrider
Date: 06-20-2006, 10:21 AM (19 of 22)
I suppose it depends on the pattern. The Victorian shirt from Folkwear used 1/2 inch seams, while the one from Laughing Moon used 5/8.

The one question I have on these, what do you do with the ends if you don't have a straight hem over it? I had to handroll the shirts from Laughing Moon as they had a very deep curve. The Folkwear has a slit between the front and the back of the shirt. With the slit, the only thing I can think of is putting another piece of fabric over the seam to cover the raw edge and that messes up the line.

I ignored the flat fell seam and just serged both sides of the fabric and seamed it and pressed it down. Worked just as well and didn't have a gap in the side slit.

Weezy
User: weezyrider
Member since: 08-19-2003
Total posts: 218
From: paroper
Date: 06-20-2006, 10:40 AM (20 of 22)
Not all patterns adjust well to flat fell or French seams. When I was sewing flags for the color guard I had all kinds of problems because they wanted flat fell seams and not all seams lent themselves to that. THere were even some places where I did French seams and then just stitched the seam down (it was faster and in this case it accomplished about the same.
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: DorothyL
Date: 06-20-2006, 10:42 AM (21 of 22)
even some places where I did French seams and then just stitched the seam down (it was faster and in this case it accomplished about the same.

I do that often.
Dorothy
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002
Total posts: 3883
From: Dee Dee Warren
Date: 07-08-2006, 02:32 PM (22 of 22)
The 6/7/06 episode of Sew Much More has flat fell and french seams - very nice instructions, and obviously video. I am glad I recorded it.
Xena the Sewing Princess ~ I have many skills
User: Dee Dee Warren
Member since: 04-25-2006
Total posts: 49
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