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From: JeanG
Date: 06-11-2006, 08:57 AM (1 of 10)
| I'm going to try to make a gauze type blouse and was reading another post about puckering. So now I know to use a sharp needle, poly thread, small stitches, and directional sewing. What is directional sewing? |
User: JeanG
Member since: 07-12-2005 Total posts: 42 |
From: Patty22
Date: 06-11-2006, 11:22 AM (2 of 10)
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Directional sewing helps to prevent stretching fabric and it is stitching with the grain. Patterns will often have arrows along the seam line indicating the direction to stitch. Don't forget to stay-stitch....that helps too and that is stitching in the direction of the grain 1/8" away from the seamline using a stitch length that is suited to the fabric. Is that as clear as mud? Patty
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User: Patty22
Member since: 03-29-2006 Total posts: 1194 |
From: paroper
Date: 06-11-2006, 12:48 PM (3 of 10)
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Some of the older patterns used to flat put arrows in the seam lines so that you couldn't miss the correct "direction" of your stitches. Now, with the 3 size patterns, they don't "print" all the seam allowances on the patterns very often so the arrows are harder to spot. THey usually look like the outline dots and squares you often see on the patterns to mark things like the end of zippers, basting lines, etc. Look for little triangles at the base of the seams (shoulders, near the sleeves, neckline edge near shoulder, edge of the hemline, etc) The direction of the point indicates the correct direction of the seam. This is to help you sew with the grain of the fabric, not sew into the cut ends causing it to spread.
pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: MissTaraTara
Date: 06-11-2006, 02:59 PM (4 of 10)
| I never did understand directional sewing. What exactly is the grain. Is it like the grain of thread where when you run your fingers up the thread it may feel fuzzy and running down the thread it is smooth? How do you determine the grain on cut yardage? Does the grain not change depending on the direction you use when laying out the pattern i.e. sometimes on fabrics without nap (like a smooth cotton) you can lay your pant legs in opposite directions to make them fit on your cut goods. When I cut out a pattern, I am sure that the pattern pieces are laid out just as the pattern diagrams state and I do measure from the grainline line on the pattern piece to the selvedge to make sure that the pattern piece is on grain. Is this not enough? I have read somewhere that you are supposed to sew from the widest end to the narrowest end or maybe that was from the narrowest to the widest. Oh well, I don't know. I'm probably just adding to the confusion! |
User: MissTaraTara
Member since: 01-24-2006 Total posts: 227 |
From: paroper
Date: 06-11-2006, 07:41 PM (5 of 10)
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You are kind of hitting around the right area. You have a lengthwise grain, a cross grain and a bias. So, if you've ever made those woven potholders you've kind of messed with this idea or even if you knit. The process for doing this I think vary a bit, esp. with improved methods, but basically you have a thread that goes across, wrap back and forth. Then you have long straight fibers that run lengthwise. They are "basket woven" for the most part the entire length of the fabric...which I can only assume could be hundreds of feet. These are "woven" fabrics. There are variations on the theme, fabrics where the fibers go over two fibers instead of one, or maybe three or four, like pique, fabrics where the fibers are sometimes clipped, etc. OK, so the straight of grain refers to the fabric being folded so that there is no buckle and the threads on the end running evenly all the way across, matching on the other side. If you are particular, you pull a thread or whatever to get this level of straight of grain, like on table cloths where it really matters. For the most part, if the fabric is properly cut, we "eyeball" it and we match the selvages on the side and make sure that it lays smoothly in the center, no buckles from being "off grain". If we have a plaid or check, we also take the time to make sure that it is all perfect. This is the lengthwise grain. For the most part, patterns are laid out so that the pattern runs longwise and we measure to the center fold and/or the selvages (which are carefully matched). If we open the fabric up and fold the fabric so that the fold lines lay on top of each other, we now have a different situation. This is the Crosswise grain. In this case, the cross grain become the "default" straight of grain. There is a distinct difference in the crossgrain as opposed to the lengthwise grain. It has a slight stretch. Often this is used where the fabric is printed down the edges or has an embellishment that runs the length of the fabric. If can also be used because there are two very large pieces laid on the fold and there would be a lot of waste if it were cut lengthwise or when you have a pattern piece that is extremely long or wide, as in long full circular skirts or long dresses where the dress is cut on the BIAS. Bias is 45 degrees from either grain. You'll see a lot of patterns that have plaid skirts where the plaid is on it's "end". These skirts are bias. Skirts that have a lot of fullness and are circular utilize the bias. The bias of the garment stretches. If you have a skirt that is bias cut, you need to hang it 24 hours before hemming to allow the skirt to "settle" to its natural length before you hem. The skirt needs to be pinned and marked to have an even hem also. If you notice, a gored skirt with a bias "center" will stretch when you press it at the center but the outside edges are shorter.....this is a good example of bias. You can cut bias strips of fabric (as in bias tape) and edge around circular things well. The bias will move and stretch to fit the fabric. If you have a circular or even an a-line skirt bias cut, the skirt will "flow" where the bias is in the skirt. This can really be utilized well in sewing the garments. Some really good examples of different types of bias are here: This is a great example of cutting to get a particular angle to the skirt. The bias portion of this garment is on the sides. Notice that the front is flat. The sides will hang beautifully to the sides. http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/voguepatterns/shop.cgi?s.item.V2900=x&TI=20001&page=1 This dress appears to have the bias portion in the front. Notice that the front of the garment lays in soft "rolls"... http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/voguepatterns/shop.cgi?s.item.V8232=x&TI=20001&page=2 Notice the difference in the feel and look of this dress which has NO bias cuts at all...although it is seen commonly, notice that it doesn't have the soft flow of the skirts that have bias but have a more "strict, business feel". http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/voguepatterns/shop.cgi?s.item.V8228=x&TI=20001&page=2 This is the garment that I made for my daughter to wear as her drum major uniform this year. The entire dress is cut on the bias. It has a center front seam and back seam as well as side seams. The inset patch is cut in the opposite bias of the dress and it is gathered at the ends giving it a totally different look from the dress. The only place that you sew on the straight of grain of this dress is at the necklines. Notice how flowing and beautiful the lines are...this is characteristic of a garment that is cut on the bias...reminds me of the "old" romantic movies, Gretta Garbo, that kind of thing... http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/voguepatterns/shop.cgi?s.item.V2786=x&TI=20006&page=2 Now, knits have the same grainlines but they are made differently. Just like when you knit a sweater, the individual threads loop inside each other so that the whole thing has a 3 dimensional look. The side ways stretch on knits is always excellent and on MOST knits, it is stretchier on the crossgrains, although there are knits that are made slightly differently that have 2 way stretch that have excellent lengthwise stretch too. For this reason, most knits are cut so that the cross stretch goes ACROSS the body for comfort, which is one of the problems which can present itself in hemming. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: westozmum
Date: 06-12-2006, 08:30 AM (6 of 10)
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Hi Directional sewing is when you sew a garment sew from the widest edge to the narrowest edge of the garment or stitch "with the fibres" Not against the fibres..think about patting a furry animal!! i.e think about how the fur lies when you pat it up and down!!! If seams are not sewen directionally it can cause the seam to stretch and could cause puckering. As menionted before, stay stitching also helps to reinforce some seams that are under greater stress such as arm holes and necklines I hope this helps you on the road to a successful outcome 
Westozmum aka Laura from the Land Down Under
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User: westozmum
Member since: 02-16-2006 Total posts: 41 
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From: JeanG
Date: 06-12-2006, 08:36 AM (7 of 10)
| Thanks so much for all the information. It will help me a lot!! I'm so glad you're generous with your knowledge - there's so much to learn. Jean |
User: JeanG
Member since: 07-12-2005 Total posts: 42 |
From: paroper
Date: 06-12-2006, 08:48 AM (8 of 10)
|
On the question of nap. Not all fabric has desernable nap. Velvets, cordoroy, natural suede are the most notable fabrics that do. Some fabrics are flat but reflect a little differently, like (some) tafetas. The nap can be either a change to the touch or a visual color change. A great example is velvet where if you hang the fabric one way the color is rich, if you hang it the other way the color is much lighter. Another type of fabric that needs to be cut with a nap layout is a fabric that is printed in one direction or has a repeat some place in the fabric that goes a different direction than the other prints. Floral fabrics are famous for hiding a flower in the print that looks different and goes the wrong way but you may have a open print with something like sailboats that repeat in both directions but there may be one little sailboat that only goes one way. That makes your fabric a directional print. Plaids that are printed so that they are not symetrical, a red, green, yellow line that just repeats down one side of the plaid makes it one-way, even stripes can be so that if you turn it over the stripes are in an opposite order. Those are the things that make people look at your pants/dress/skirt and go hmmmmmm. When in doubt it is sometimes just easier to use a nap layout. Cutting from the wide part to the narrow part of the garment is probaby a good way to think about it. I can't think of a layout where you might not do that. What you are doing is cutting where the threads are short to where the threads are long, not from long to short. THat makes you sew into the fabric. When laying your fabric to check the grain, lay the first pin in one end of the grain arrow. measure to your finished edge to get the distance from the edge. Then measure up to the other end of the arrow from the edge (same distance) and pin. Check your distances to make sure they didn't shift in pinning and make sure that the pattern piece did not pivot off the pattern piece. In most cases if you lay your larger patterns first you'll have better luck in laying your garment to fit your fabrics. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Orc40k
Date: 06-13-2006, 12:20 PM (9 of 10)
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Here's a chart with arrows that might be of assistance. These are the genaral directions when you're laying out with the straight grain going vertically on the pattern pieces. And after years of sewing stuff that looked home sewn, this was one of the things that made the biggest difference in having garments that didn't have that "did-it-myself" look. http://historicalfashion.com/image/103 |
User: Orc40k
Member since: 06-29-2005 Total posts: 47 |
From: JeanG
Date: 06-13-2006, 05:04 PM (10 of 10)
| The chart is exactly what I need. Thank you so much!!!!! Jean |
User: JeanG
Member since: 07-12-2005 Total posts: 42 |
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