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From: weezyrider
Date: 06-16-2006, 10:59 AM (1 of 22)
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For a long time it was recommended that you sew the shoulder seam in a Tshirt with twill tape. I've looked at commercially made T's and they have a strip of self fabric sewn from shoulder to shoulder and across the back of the neck. Question: Is there any easy way to duplicate this as it looks better than twill tape? Also noticed that T's sold for underwear don't have this. Thanks, Weezy 
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User: weezyrider
Member since: 08-19-2003 Total posts: 218 
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From: Patty22
Date: 06-16-2006, 11:19 AM (2 of 22)
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Weezy...from my experience, when I made T-shirts for my kids there was a product on the market by Stacy; a fusible bias cut knit tape. It was much softer than a twill tape and I never really worried about getting a strong fused bond on it (just enough until I sewed it into the shoulder seams). I also used it to reinforce the area on t-shirts if applying a pocket. In the seventies there was a fabric store chain called Stretch and Sew and I don't remember seeing them use twill tape in their demonstrations or lessons. Patty
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User: Patty22
Member since: 03-29-2006 Total posts: 1194 |
From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 06-16-2006, 05:22 PM (3 of 22)
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I use the narrow satin ribbon that you can buy a spool of for 44 cents at any fabric or craft store.. The 1/8 or 1/4 inch wide ones and just stitch into the shoulder seams. That way it does not show, but it does keep the shape of the shirt nice and neat on the shoulders.. My serger has a hole in the presser foot that I can insert narrow ribbon or yarn or stren or elastic thread in as I sew. I did not discover this for a long time after I bought it.. Funny thing, its not mentioned in the manual..I have never seen that soft bias in that thin knit for sale anywhere.. If I had, I would probably buy it and try it.. I think it serves the same purpose in the purchased t-shirts that I have..
Sew With Love
Libby |
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002 Total posts: 2022 
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From: MartySews
Date: 06-16-2006, 09:36 PM (4 of 22)
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Last week I made a T-shirt using the "Phoebe Tee" pattern by Fred Bloebaum (www.lafred.com) and it recommended using some type of stay tape on the shoulder seams. I had some old seam binding (19 cents pkg) that was in the exact color of the T-shirt so I used that to stabilize. I just pinned it to the shoulder seam allowance and serged. Worked great even after I washed and dried the shirt. I know that the shoulders won't stretch out of shape and it's nice because I needed to add a shoulder pad. Some patterns recommend using a strip of the selvedge. I think that whatever one has on hand will work. Happy Stitching!
It takes one moment to change a life.
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User: MartySews
Member since: 02-23-2003 Total posts: 504 
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From: weezyrider
Date: 06-17-2006, 08:30 AM (5 of 22)
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I can make the strips out of extra fabric so it matches the shirt - that's no problem. Is there any easy way of applying it so the stitches come out nice and straight on the topside? Weezy 
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User: weezyrider
Member since: 08-19-2003 Total posts: 218
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From: MariLynntex
Date: 06-17-2006, 11:20 AM (6 of 22)
| You're right, just about anything will do for stay-tape on shoulder seams, as long as you cut it on the straight grain or cross-grain (NOT bias) of the fabric.It's good to use a piece with darts, too--on the rare occasion I ever make anything with darts in it anymore! Not only keeps the shape but reinforces the seams. Sew it to the seam allowance on the seamline, then sew the seam as usual. MariLynntex |
User: MariLynntex
Member since: 01-05-2006 Total posts: 107 |
From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 06-19-2006, 04:00 PM (7 of 22)
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I just have mine ready and it is done as I serge the shoulder seam, all at once in the one seam..
Sew With Love
Libby |
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002 Total posts: 2022
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From: weezyrider
Date: 06-20-2006, 09:58 AM (8 of 22)
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So how do you get it around the neckline? I'm really looking for a way to get it on STRAIGHT. Right now hand basting is the only option as I can't see what's on the underside. Weezy
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User: weezyrider
Member since: 08-19-2003 Total posts: 218
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From: LeapFrog Libby
Date: 06-20-2006, 02:49 PM (9 of 22)
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I don't put mine across the neckline.. I just put it in the seams on the shoulders.. I have never had any problem with the neckline ribbing stretching out of place..(even when I use self-fabric)..
Sew With Love
Libby |
User: LeapFrog Libby
Member since: 05-01-2002 Total posts: 2022
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From: weezyrider
Date: 06-20-2006, 07:10 PM (10 of 22)
I think it might be sheer vanity. I think that most of the stuff we make is probably better made than the RTW. The thing is that someone can point to this strip on the RTW and dismiss my shirt as homemade. So I'm kinda out to do the Mfgr's one better! But I really would like to know if there's an easy way to topstitch something and have it stitch in the right place underneath. I have the same trouble with bias binding - I always wind up doing the second side by hand.  Weezy |
User: weezyrider
Member since: 08-19-2003 Total posts: 218
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From: Patty22
Date: 06-20-2006, 07:51 PM (11 of 22)
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Hmmm.....so if the shoulder seam has this row of top stitching on the top (similar to what a flat fell seam would have).... and you want the stitching on the top to be straight and professional looking..... .....why don't you just sew the top stitching from the right side of your garment (top) rather than from the wrong side. Have the seam pressed and pin or baste your seam from the top. It could also be that the the stitching seems to draw your attention because it is actually done with a different and heavier thread (similar to the top stitching in jeans.) If you're worried about someone pointing out one seam line that is lacking and dismissing your garment as "homemade".....well............well  ....I better not go there.I have seen some RTW garments out on the racks that look like &hit. Sorry, but they do. Don't worry about not making your garments to meet these shoddy standards. Well......I am going to go hide now........ 
Patty
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User: Patty22
Member since: 03-29-2006 Total posts: 1194 |
From: weezyrider
Date: 06-20-2006, 08:11 PM (12 of 22)
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I agree about some RTW. I just can't seem to line up the top and bottom so the stitches hit both sides. I'm not worried about the home made that much. I'd make a pretty good forger if I put my mind to it! (I won't do it, though) so I'm also annoyed due to the fact that I can fake a lot of print stuff, and can't seem to copy this technique. Like I said, I have the same problem with bias tape. I can measure and even use my page layout tools to mark a hem and I always seem to miss a small section when I topstitch it. Maybe I can't iron straight. Weezy |
User: weezyrider
Member since: 08-19-2003 Total posts: 218
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From: DorothyL
Date: 06-21-2006, 06:40 AM (13 of 22)
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I agree with Patti. Top stitch on top. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: weezyrider
Date: 06-21-2006, 10:24 AM (14 of 22)
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I agree topstitch on top. I can't see the underside and the stitches run off the stay. So how do I figure out where I'm sewing on the underside? Weezy |
User: weezyrider
Member since: 08-19-2003 Total posts: 218
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From: Patty22
Date: 06-21-2006, 11:14 AM (15 of 22)
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Weezy.....without actually knowing what your tape, self-fabric, or whatever you are using for your stay looks like, I can only make general suggestions. Have the bulk of the stay you are stitching in the shoulder seam extend into the shoulder of the garment, not the sleeve. I would steam press the seam allowance towards the garment. Make sure that the stay is wide enough to accomodate being sewn into your original seam and then to extend a bit beyond your topstitching. Make sure you press lifting the iron and placing down on the garment (not a heavy back and forth motion that could stretch the garment). If you need to at this point, hand baste where you intend to top stitch (1/4" from your seam). This way, you can keep turning your garment back and forth to make sure you are catching your stay into your stitches. Top stitch (and this would just be my preference, but using a longer stitch as it is just a decorative touch). Like I said previously, just suggestions based on how I did it. Patty
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User: Patty22
Member since: 03-29-2006 Total posts: 1194 |
From: weezyrider
Date: 06-21-2006, 11:25 AM (16 of 22)
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That's what I've been doing - handbasting with a contrasting thread so I can see the darned stay. I guess that's the only solution for accuracy. Thanks, Weezy
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User: weezyrider
Member since: 08-19-2003 Total posts: 218
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From: DorothyL
Date: 06-21-2006, 01:37 PM (17 of 22)
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I was going to say the same thing Patty said. Sometimes you just have to get out the old needle and thread and hand baste. It will hold the stay in place and you can see where to stitch. You don't want to sew right over the hand stitches, just a bit to one side. I'd put the basting right on the edge of the stay in such a way that I would stitch just to the inside. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: HeyJudee
Date: 06-21-2006, 05:16 PM (18 of 22)
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Just a suggestion for basting...I have had to do some hand basting before sewing on applique blocks for a quilt. So I bought a spool of water soluble thread...it's a white YLI brand. I bought it at a quilting store. It is great as after you have basted and done your machine stitching, you just spray water on it and the basting thread disappears. But you have to store the thread in a small zip-lock bag...to keep the humidity from affecting it.
TTFN from
Judy |
User: HeyJudee
Member since: 01-25-2005 Total posts: 1366 
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From: LauraM62
Date: 06-23-2006, 08:45 AM (19 of 22)
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Another item I use is clear elastic. I started using it after I bought some really nice knit shirts, and seen in some pricey snoop shopping this techinque for the shoulder stays. Personally I like the clear elastic because it gives a little stretch back to the shoulder seam for wear. If you use a 3/8" width, apply it on an edge of the shoulder back piece, I can cut it with the serger, etc & it retains its stretch. I pull it just very slightly when applying it - it did take me a couple of times tying it to get it down.
LauraM
SW Indiana If everyone cared and nobody cried; If everyone loved and nobody lied; If everyone shared and swallowed their pride; Then we'd see the day when nobody died --'If Everyone Cared' by Nickelback |
User: LauraM62
Member since: 08-10-2003 Total posts: 246 
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From: sewingrandma
Date: 06-23-2006, 06:03 PM (20 of 22)
Weezy, I understand what you are talking about. DH tried to tell me what he wanted on his shoulder and neck line of the tee's I was making. He finally went and got a tee shirt that had it. What I've been doing and it seems to satisfy him is cut a strip of self fabric and stitch it along the seam line on the inside achoring one edge from shoulder, across the neck to the next shoulder. Then I get out my twin needle and using thread in only one needle I sew on the outside with one needle in the seam line I stitch down the second edge encasing the seam that I previously sewed. The twin needle just helps me to keep the stitching equidistance from the actual seam. BTW I serge all my tee shirt seams except for this seam. DH feels that this tape makes the neck and shoulder less irritating! You really don't want to hear what I told him.  HTH. Brockie
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User: sewingrandma
Member since: 03-06-2003 Total posts: 432 |
From: Patty22
Date: 06-24-2006, 09:44 AM (21 of 22)
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Brockie....I never would have thought of using twin needles. Wow....good idea.
Patty
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User: Patty22
Member since: 03-29-2006 Total posts: 1194 |
From: weezyrider
Date: 06-26-2006, 12:01 PM (22 of 22)
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So that's why it's there! - The undershirt tees that are sold as undershirts don't seem to have it. (checked SIL's). Guess it's needle and basting thread to see where I'm at. Weezy Weezy, I understand what you are talking about. DH tried to tell me what he wanted on his shoulder and neck line of the tee's I was making. He finally went and got a tee shirt that had it. What I've been doing and it seems to satisfy him is cut a strip of self fabric and stitch it along the seam line on the inside achoring one edge from shoulder, across the neck to the next shoulder. Then I get out my twin needle and using thread in only one needle I sew on the outside with one needle in the seam line I stitch down the second edge encasing the seam that I previously sewed. The twin needle just helps me to keep the stitching equidistance from the actual seam. BTW I serge all my tee shirt seams except for this seam. DH feels that this tape makes the neck and shoulder less irritating! You really don't want to hear what I told him. HTH. |
User: weezyrider
Member since: 08-19-2003 Total posts: 218
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