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From: KATMOM
Date: 06-22-2006, 08:31 AM (1 of 12)
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Hi everyone....I am working on my dress...I have it cut out..... The first step they tell me is to sew the Darts on ...which I have never done...and then I am wondering if anyone can give me a few pointers here, also, can I follow the pattern markings or do I need to adjust for the full chest thing? Any pointers or suggestions would be appreciated..... Thanks- Kat 
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User: KATMOM
Member since: 11-30-2005 Total posts: 27 |
From: westozmum
Date: 06-22-2006, 08:57 AM (2 of 12)
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Hi Kat Well! Darts!! First thing .............you mention that you may need to do a full bust adjustment? having a full bust myself........i would strongly recommend doing any adjustments before cutting out your fabric. You have to be careful with a full bust and darts. The darts can "not point in the right direction" (fuller bust are usually lower on the chest than a B cup) Not flattering! and can make garment uncortable to wear...it wont fit nicely. Bust Point Also another thing to consider with a lot of us lovely ladies is the bust separation......which is vital to get right if you dont want the front to gape if it has a front closing or stretching across the front. Unfortunatley i am not much good at describing how to tell you how to do all of this....having done it a million times i still struggle with it!  As for sewing the darts.....i am sure the gang will be along to share their tips on how to sew darts as there is a million different ways of doing them as well!! For the bust darts ,I sew from the garment edge which is the widest to the point. I usually wind the machine by hand when i reach the point so I can get the final stitch right on the point on the edge...leaving the needle in the garment lift the foot and turn your gament to you can sew excatly back on the seam a few stitches to secure it. no need to back stitch. Sorry for the long winded reply!! I hope i have at least given you food for thought. I am sure the others will have some advice as well Cheers Westozmum aka Laura from the Land Down Under
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User: westozmum
Member since: 02-16-2006 Total posts: 41 
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From: DorothyL
Date: 06-22-2006, 09:03 AM (3 of 12)
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I'd at least see how the darts fall by folding the pattern and holding it up to get an idea of where the darts hit. Since you are new to this -- and to this pattern -- it wouldn't hurt to make a muslin of that part of the pattern. Just grab a scrap and cut out a front section. Sew the dart. I like a chalk line or at least a few dots on the wrong side to follow when I sew. And sew toward the point and off the fabric. When you do the fashion fabric you would just tie the threads to secure them. If it fits then make it on the fashion fabric. If not, you can adjust on the muslin until you get it right and transfer the changes to the dress. Use longer stitches on the muslin and don't back stitch so it is easy to take out if you need to change it. It sounds like a lot of extra work but it really only takes a few minutes and is a lot easier and less of a pain to change it before you do the actual dress. Someone is sure to come on here and tell you to make a muslin of the entire garment but I prefer just playing around with the tricky fitting parts such as darts or parts where you're not sure of the fit. But I like simple, loose fitting lines so most patterns fit me if they are BIG enough. Pack up and keep the muslin with the pattern for next time. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
From: HeyJudee
Date: 06-22-2006, 12:32 PM (4 of 12)
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If you need some advice on how to do a bust adjustment...there is an article in the SWN Sewing lessons "Full Bust Enlargement" written by Kathleen Cheetam (from Petite Plus Patterns). She gives instructions on how to do the adjustment. I took a class on pant fitting from her and it was really good. Hope this helps. http://sew-whats-new.com/CMS/index.php?option=content&task=category§ionid=14&id=35&Itemid=28 TTFN from
Judy |
User: HeyJudee
Member since: 01-25-2005 Total posts: 1366 
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From: Mom of Six
Date: 06-22-2006, 12:40 PM (5 of 12)
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Are there any instuctions for reducing? I never make fitted shirts because I am only a B cup but need a 20 or 22 pattern. When I put darts in the shirts never fit right. I have gone to making shirts without darts. They are OK for work & around home but I would like to try some that fit a little better.
Barb
Happiness is having time to sew!! |
User: Mom of Six
Member since: 11-03-2001 Total posts: 1115 
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From: KATMOM
Date: 06-22-2006, 03:01 PM (6 of 12)
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Sounds like I have my work cut out for me... I have alot to think about now for sure.... westozmum,Dorothy,Judy: Thanks for the information....I will let you know how it goes. I really appreciate your information...I knew you ladies would get me headed in the right direction. Mom of Six: Check out that Link that Judy attached...It describes how to do the ajustment and the darts.....it might help you figure out placement....of the dart. It was talking about that in the attachment....and there are visuals too so that was really good.....Now just moving all that stuff to my actual pattern. I have also avoided making shirts - for this reason...I can remember trying to make one long ago and cutting out my size....and I can tell you none of my chest was fitting into that...I have been picking out a few things to make and they have all been loose garments....easy as I am a beginner....and I don't want to get discouraged. Thanks again... |
User: KATMOM
Member since: 11-30-2005 Total posts: 27 |
From: Mom of Six
Date: 06-22-2006, 03:44 PM (7 of 12)
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I will check it out later. I need to cut out 2 more pair of shorts for DGSs before I pick DD up from work to go to Bingo & 5:oo.
Barb
Happiness is having time to sew!! |
User: Mom of Six
Member since: 11-03-2001 Total posts: 1115
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From: HeyJudee
Date: 06-22-2006, 04:57 PM (8 of 12)
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I have this site in my favorites....I think I got it from an earlier post of Pam's. There is a small bit about altering for a small bust. Hope this helps. http://www.cahe.nmsu.edu/pubs/_c/c-228.html TTFN from
Judy |
User: HeyJudee
Member since: 01-25-2005 Total posts: 1366
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From: Orc40k
Date: 06-22-2006, 05:06 PM (9 of 12)
| For starters, make sure you have the right size pattern for tops. Use your high chest measurement (under your arms, all the way around), not the full bust. Commercial patterns are designed for the B cup. You will get a much better fit in the armhole, shoulder and bust using the high bust size. Then if you need to let out for hips and waist it's easy to do. I wear an 18 pattern in tops, a 20 or 22 for waist and a 22-24 for hips! Goddess bless multi size patterns and full bust adjustments! |
User: Orc40k
Member since: 06-29-2005 Total posts: 47 |
From: Mom of Six
Date: 06-22-2006, 10:47 PM (10 of 12)
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Thanks Judy I printed the guide so when I get time to sew for me I can use it. My tops fit everywhere except the bust. I think that the larger patterns are made more for a D or DD
Barb
Happiness is having time to sew!! |
User: Mom of Six
Member since: 11-03-2001 Total posts: 1115
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From: KATMOM
Date: 06-23-2006, 08:37 AM (11 of 12)
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Thanks so much for the references for Alterations.....I have bookmarked them. I am wondering if I have the correct idea.....I think from my anaylising last night - I am able to skip the full bust alteration...but the darts are not right....So I was reading and looking at the pattern and trying to figure it out... I marked my bust point and now to correctly place the darts for a D cup you have to go 2-2-1/2 inches back and then you move it down to the Dart area. So my question is do I merely move the orginal dart placement back 2-1/2 inches or do I place it at the side of the bust point - 2-1/2 inches....? Am I making any sense? I thought if I could find a shirt in my closet that had this feature "DARTS" that maybe I could figure it out, so I went through them all....Not one dart in the bunch.....Checked out the few dresses I own....Not one dart in them either......Hopefully this is not a sign...that I am not able to wear darts.... I did have some clothes that have the front/straight up and down looking fitting marks...could they also be darts?  Thanks...katina 
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User: KATMOM
Member since: 11-30-2005 Total posts: 27 |
From: paroper
Date: 06-28-2006, 11:37 AM (12 of 12)
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The problem with large busts is that you require more fabric to cover the bust. For that reason, just making a "normal" pattern and changing the darts will make the pattern shorter than it was meant to be. When you make your full bust adjustment you'll find that you spread the fabric to feed more length to cover the bust area. If you add 2 inches or more to the front of the garment to make it cover the bust area, without that fabric, the front of your dress is 2 inches high. At the same time, you'll see that at the end of the bust dart is a little pleat. This is made when the pattern is drafted. The dart is closed, and placed in the correct position. Then, the dart is clipped. That little V makes the dart seam even with the cutting line. Without that extra fabric, there would be a hole in your garment. If you move the dart witout moving that "v" or creating a new one, you'll have a big problem. As for a smaller bust adjustment? Your problem is just the oposite (of course) of a full bust. Instead of adding fabric, fold fabric out. You will need to make sure that your dart area is high enough...normall slightly higher than a B cup. You darts will be shallower. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
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