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This archived content is from Mary Wilkins’ sewing and quilting message board “Sew What’s New,” which was retired in August 2007. It is being provided by “Sew What’s Up,” which serves as the new home for many members of “Sew What’s New.”
From: Longblades
Date: 06-28-2006, 10:28 AM (1 of 9)
Are the godets cut on the bias? I've decided on a trumpet skirt for my bargain basement $1.50/metre viscose. I've seen such a skirt and I can make my own pattern (I think, sometimes I'm overly ambitous/confident) but has anyone made one? Are the godets cut on the bias or just straight like the flat panels?

I'm thinking each flat panel will be 5.25 inches wide, finished, and the widest part of the godets will be be 7.25 inches, finished, with the narrow end of the godet starting about midway down the skirt, which will be about 35" long, finished. Any comments/tips?

P.S. If I could remember which store I saw such a skirt in I'd just go back and take a closer look at the godets.
User: Longblades
Member since: 07-14-2005
Total posts: 182
From: paroper
Date: 06-28-2006, 11:51 AM (2 of 9)
In MOST cases the center of the godet is the straight of grain. There are exceptions to every rule. The fabric will always collapse toward the straight of grain. This means that the godet gathers toward the center, not one side or the other.
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: Longblades
Date: 06-28-2006, 12:27 PM (3 of 9)
Thanks Paroper. I just posted a link in the post above to a site where I found out the same thing. It's starting to rain and thunderstorm here and I don't like to have the computer on at such times. Gee, guess I'll have to go start pattern drafting. :wink:

Edited to say other post, with link, is called Pattern Drafting Book On-Line.
User: Longblades
Member since: 07-14-2005
Total posts: 182
From: MariLynntex
Date: 06-29-2006, 01:31 PM (4 of 9)
I make most of my own patterns. I only have 5 or 6 basic patterns, and make everythiing from them, adding variations now and then, in the yokes, sleeves, pockets, cuffs, necklines, etc. I always cut godets on the fold of the fabric, sometimes making them longer for a different look. I used to teach sewing classes, and freemotion embroidery classes, and do custom sewing. I wrote a book about freemotion embroidery a few years ago. that still sells pretty well! I still prrefer to do freemotion myself, instead of buying an automatic embroidery machine. You can make a gored skirt by adding flare at the bottom of what would otherwise be a straight piece, or add the godets as you are apparently doing. MariLynntex
User: MariLynntex
Member since: 01-05-2006
Total posts: 107
From: Tummy
Date: 06-29-2006, 04:54 PM (5 of 9)
*As I pull the bag over my head*... Whats a Godet?
User: Tummy
Member since: 06-03-2006
Total posts: 81
From: paroper
Date: 06-29-2006, 05:20 PM (6 of 9)
no bag, they aren't in style all that often. I've got to ask "Where is a good Godet when you need one?" They seem to be in everything yet I had to look.... This skirt show godets. They are triangle insets that make the skirt wider at the bottom than might be humanly possible otherwise.

http://www.mccallpattern.com/item/M4717.htm?tab=skirts_pants&page=2
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: paroper
Date: 06-29-2006, 05:21 PM (7 of 9)
http://www.mccallpattern.com/item/M4714.htm?tab=evening_prom_bridal&page=2

This is another very pretty example.
pam

Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch)
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004
Total posts: 3775
From: Longblades
Date: 07-03-2006, 10:16 AM (8 of 9)
Godets are all the rage right now, just look closely at those frilly, filmy dresses in the stores, the ones that have a chiffon type overskirt, and at the new skirts women are wearing with their business suits. There are jabots on the frilly dresses too, who'd a thunk these old features would come back?

I finished my skirt, modifying to fit the width of the fabric, and if I do say so myself, it's really nice. I had intended to make the hip area fitted but the fabric is quite light weight and loosely woven so I thought a gathered elastic waist would work better and certainly took less time for me. Now I won't worry about the rear-end busting out when I sit (gee, where did I read about that? :wink: )

Because each panel had an automatic little bend at the bottom, due to the godet being attached, hemming was really easy. Just turned under a quarter inch and every bit was on the staight grain - so easy. Put the waist in last, measuring for my right leg being half an inch longer than the left. That worked out so well I think I will try finishing hems before doing waists on other things too, particularly skirts.

I have a business meeting with a client tomorrow night and I hope to wear my new skirt, with purchased camisole and sweater that I loved the minute I saw them.

And, ooh, those are pretty patterns.
User: Longblades
Member since: 07-14-2005
Total posts: 182
From: Tummy
Date: 07-05-2006, 12:22 AM (9 of 9)
Thank you so much.. I had no clue.. still learning here... Im SOOOOO glad I found this Board!!!

Thanks ladies
User: Tummy
Member since: 06-03-2006
Total posts: 81
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