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From: Sancin
Date: 07-02-2006, 04:45 AM (1 of 18)
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It is very hot here and late. I have just spent an hour on line trying to find a list or some such things that help me understand what the needle labels mean (on the packaging as it is impossible to actually read the needles). I needed a new sharp needle tonight for something I was sewing. I found a package of Organ needles which I was told were good needles - they were labelled HAx1 - I finally found that they were sharp and were the size I wanted, but I recall hearing of a chart that indicates what all the letters on needle packaging means. Can anyone help me? If anyone can tell me how to actually see the writing on the needle I am sure everyone would love you. I have tried rubbing chalk on the indents but they don't seem deep enough. Nail polish applied and quickly wiped off wipes everything off. Aurrrrgu - time for bed - hope I can sleep as there is a lot of Canada Day hoopla in the neighbourhood - don't teenagers ever go home? 
*~*~*~* Nancy*~*~*~* " I try to take one day at a time - but sometimes several days attack me at once."
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User: Sancin
Member since: 02-13-2005 Total posts: 895 
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From: luv2sew
Date: 07-02-2006, 08:41 AM (2 of 18)
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Sancin, I have a magnifier that I use primarily for cross stitch but it does work nicely reading the info on needles. It is the one that hangs around your neck and has a small area that magnifies larger and that is the part that I use to read needles. I use Organ needles in the embroidery machine and Schmetz in the sewing machines and sergers. This was recommended when I bought the machines. There is one exception...Singer needles in the Featherweight. I hope you managed to get a good night's sleep. 
Luv2sew
An act of kindness is never wasted!! |
User: luv2sew
Member since: 05-21-2004 Total posts: 174 
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From: wghmch
Date: 07-02-2006, 10:01 AM (3 of 18)
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"There is one exception...Singer needles in the Featherweight." Could be a bad exception...if you used the yellow band Singer needle. It has an offset blade toward the hook, and if your 221 is set correctly, these needles will slightly touch the hook. Red band Singer (sharps) are OK as are the standard Schmetz 705H. Also avoid the Schmetz 705H-S which have the same offset blade as the Singer yellow band. Bill Holman |
User: wghmch
Member since: 03-04-2003 Total posts: 249 |
From: luv2sew
Date: 07-02-2006, 11:56 AM (4 of 18)
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Bill, Thank you. In checking the needles, they are absent of color. These needles came in a "tune up" kit which I purchased from 221 Parts along with a drip pad. After examining the needle, there does not appear to be a blade on the needle and also, the machine has been serviced and the needle was in it at the time. The tech did not mention it being improper. Are you familiar with this particular needle (Singer, 80/11, no color)? Thank you. Luv2sew
An act of kindness is never wasted!! |
User: luv2sew
Member since: 05-21-2004 Total posts: 174
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From: paroper
Date: 07-02-2006, 12:50 PM (5 of 18)
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THis is a rather nice article on needles in general. I cannot find the information I needed to share on the lettering with the needles but I believe that HA means that it is a home machine needle. http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00185.asp Singer needles can be a different length from other needles so if you do not have a Singer machine, pay careful attention to the length of the needle you purchase if it is a Singer needle. Also, notice that the Schmentz sharp needles are marketed as Microtex. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: paroper
Date: 07-02-2006, 12:56 PM (6 of 18)
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I found something that will probably help you http://www.ctsusa.com/showpages.asp?pid=1009 This, on the other hand has to do with commercial machines http://www.ctsusa.com/showpages.asp?pid=1011 pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: Sancin
Date: 07-02-2006, 08:14 PM (7 of 18)
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Thanks, Pam I do have the Threads article and I do understand the differences between needles (more later) and in fact, had been to that excellent CTUSA site. But I missed the page on the home machine needles, which is what I was looking for! Must have been too hot and tired, and no, I did not sleep well, but I have most of the day.  It is even hotter today. luv2sew - I also have a magnifying glass exactly as you describe which I do use, but I still have a next to impossible to time reading the needle and it is a pain in the neck trying all the time. I do keep my needles separated in their cases and use new needles. The problem becomes when I have not remembered to put a post it on my machine to let me know what is in the machine or when I have used a needle only for a minute or two for a small job. So I will accept any further suggestions.  Bill- It is interesting about the needles for Featherweight. I have always just used Schmetz needles, never knowing there were Singer needles. My current Featherweight is new to me, but I had one years ago and in fact still have a package of needles I bought for that machine with 3 unused needles (don't ask). Also avoid the Schmetz 705H-S which have the same offset blade as the Singer yellow band. - what would one use a 705 H-S for, just in case I have some of those? Further, people keep talking about using only Singer machine oil. Here again, I have always used just a good sewing machine oil bought at a dealer or sewing machine shop. I didn't even know there was Singer oil. My current Janome doesn't need to be oiled as far as I can tell, but I had planned to oil my Featherweight with some sewing machine oil that came with an Elna I had/have. Perhaps you can help with a question I have about the Featherweight. I have found out that the quilting feet from my Janome (the ones on screws onto the post) fit my Featherweight and allow the needle through. I would like to try some free motion embroidery and wonder how to disengage the feed dogs. If the fabric will fit under the presser foot I was considering using duct tape, perhaps with a small piece of paper (or even fabric) over the feed dog and then tape over it. Warning?  Thinking of which fan is the most comfortable to go sit in front of. *~*~*~* Nancy*~*~*~* " I try to take one day at a time - but sometimes several days attack me at once."
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User: Sancin
Member since: 02-13-2005 Total posts: 895
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From: TupJane
Date: 07-02-2006, 09:40 PM (8 of 18)
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For storing used needles I padded the lid of a decorative box and then covered it with a scrap of polka dot material. I labeled the dots with the different sizes/types of needles that I normally use. When I change needles I simply stick the needle in the corresponding dot. It's like a box shaped pin cushion for machine needles. I try to keep a basic needle in my machine at all times and change out when I work on a specific project. It's the only way I can keep track of what I'm currently using. Sticky notes have a tendency to fall off my machine. Incidentally, I used a box that was big enough to store my stash of machine needles. No more searching for the right needle. I don't even have to get up from the machine.
Jane
See Jane Sew |
User: TupJane
Member since: 02-04-2005 Total posts: 55 
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From: wghmch
Date: 07-03-2006, 01:03 AM (9 of 18)
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“In checking the needles, they are absent of color…After examining the needle, there does not appear to be a blade on the needle ” Then they should be fine. The “blade” of the needle is what we generally call everything below the shank. On the Singer yellow band and the Schmetz 705H-S, the blade will be moved slightly toward the flat side of the shank. This is done to try to compensate for poor quality ZZ models where the hook does not come close enough to the needle and there is no way to adjust the hook, so they compensate by moving the needle closer to the hook. On those ZZ machines, the hook comes behind the needle and the needle goes in flat side back and threads front to back. On any straight stitch machine that threads side to side, you can put in a standard needle and watch where it enters the hole in the throat plate, and then try the “stretch needle” and see that it enters further toward the flat side of the shank. Result: If the hook was properly adjusted to come VERY close to the needle, it will now touch it. “Are you familiar with this particular needle (Singer, 80/11, no color)?” 80/11 is not the needle system or type of point, but the size. 80 is the metric size and 11 is the same thing in the US sizing. 80 tells you that the blade of the needle (see above) is .8mm in diameter. (The US # is just a designation) If you had a size 100 needle, it would be 1mm in dia. The needle system that tells you that it is the common needle that is used in most household machines is 705 in the metric (European) system, 15X1 in the US system, and HAx1 in the Asian system. All are the same. People get excited over measuring very tiny differences in the lengths of different brands of needles, and it means next to nothing. The measurement that matters is the timing length, which is from the top of the shank to the eye, and it is virtually identical on all of the brands. There are many different points for different fabrics and purposes, and the shape of the scarf (indent above the eye on the “back” of the needle) serves different purposes. “Also, notice that the Schmentz sharp needles are marketed as Microtex.” This is just one of the Schmetz sharp needles. The 705H-J which is generally referred to as a “jeans needle” is also sharp. It is really the same thing as all needles used to be, before they had to develop the rounded points for knits and synthetics. “..what would one use a 705 H-S for, just in case I have some of those?” See above. If you have a lesser quality ZZ machine that skip stitches on lightweight fabrics and knits, these may help/ “Further, people keep talking about using only Singer machine oil. Here again, I have always used just a good sewing machine oil bought at a dealer or sewing machine shop. I didn't even know there was Singer oil. My current Janome doesn't need to be oiled as far as I can tell, but I had planned to oil my Featherweight with some sewing machine oil that came with an Elna I had/have.” That should be perfectly good. Any brand of SM oil that is fairly clear will do just fine. Avoid “all purpose” oils like 3 in 1, or WD-40, which is not really an oil but a water displacement solvent. The absolute best thing (which you’ll seldom find in a book because the SM mfgrs don’t sell it) is a synthetic lubricant called Triflow. It must be shaken frequently, but it suspends Teflon and coats the surfaces in such a way that they are more slippery than any oil could make them. It also will not damage rubber if it gets on it, but don’t get it on anything that you don’t want to make slippery. “Perhaps you can help with a question I have about the Featherweight. I have found out that the quilting feet from my Janome (the ones on screws onto the post) fit my Featherweight and allow the needle through. I would like to try some free motion embroidery and wonder how to disengage the feed dogs. If the fabric will fit under the presser foot I was considering using duct tape, perhaps with a small piece of paper (or even fabric) over the feed dog and then tape over it. Warning?” The feed dogs on a Singer Featherweight do not drop. I would be inclined to try a darning foot that goes up and down with the needle, and just set the stitch length at neutral (zero) so the feed dogs just go up and down in one place. It is a standard low shank mount, so many feet will fit, but if you want the machine to feed the fabric, the shape of the foot should match closely the shape of the feed dogs. Bill Holman |
User: wghmch
Member since: 03-04-2003 Total posts: 249 |
From: luv2sew
Date: 07-03-2006, 05:15 PM (10 of 18)
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Pam and Bill, Thank you so much for this information. I have certainly learned a lot here and really appreciate your time. Jane, Thank you also for sharing your clever "needle keeper" idea. I will have to make one for my sewing room. Hope you all have a wonderful holiday. Luv2sew
An act of kindness is never wasted!! |
User: luv2sew
Member since: 05-21-2004 Total posts: 174
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From: guppie
Date: 07-03-2006, 06:27 PM (11 of 18)
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For keeping track of what needle is in my machine, I have one of those little blue/white 'Needletrak' thingies. One side lists the numbers, the other the type (ie: Universal, Ball point, etc). You just move the markers to the correct position. Very inexpensive. I also use a tomato pincushion that I have divided into sections, both lengthwise and circumferential. The top circ. holds Universal needles, and each longitudinal section has its oun number. I put used needles in here, and when I take another needle to use, I replace it with a large-headed pin, so I know where it came from. I have added 2 other sections circumferentially for Topstitching needles and Microtex sharps. Both systems work well for me. Bill, you are just a wealth of information! I never knew that an '80' was 0.8mm, and so on. Pretty cool! I have just heard about Triflow, and was wondering if it will work well on my FW and sergers? Anything particular I should watch out for or be careful of that has not already been mentioned? My Compulock takes a 15x1 SP needle. What does the SP stand for, and how do they differ from regular sewing machine needles? You'd think that by now all needle sizes for all home machines would be one and the same. Can drive a person crazy just thinking about this! Thanks for all your input! Cathy
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User: guppie
Member since: 12-29-2004 Total posts: 43 
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From: wghmch
Date: 07-03-2006, 08:24 PM (12 of 18)
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"I have just heard about Triflow, and was wondering if it will work well on my FW and sergers? Anything particular I should watch out for or be careful of that has not already been mentioned?" There's just not much of anything negative about Triflow, except that it is a little pricier than cheap oil. It's just that it's very important that you keep shaking the container to keep the Teflon suspended. Otherwise, you're not getting much of any advantage. There is also a Triflow grease. It's so sticky that you only need to put a light coating on the old metal gears, and you're good for a very long time. Plastic gears are designed to run dry and should not be lubricated. It would only attract grit. "My Compulock takes a 15x1 SP needle. What does the SP stand for, and how do they differ from regular sewing machine needles? You'd think that by now all needle sizes for all home machines would be one and the same." I don't know what it stands for, but I'm quite sure that the scarf is shaped specifically to work well with the serger's loopers. "Can drive a person crazy just thinking about this!" I made this statement once, and someone replied, "That's only a putt." "Thanks for all your input!" You're welcome, Cathy. I like to share with people who are interested and have open minds. Bill Holman |
User: wghmch
Member since: 03-04-2003 Total posts: 249 |
From: Sancin
Date: 07-04-2006, 01:07 AM (13 of 18)
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I would like to add my thanks as well to those who talked about labelling and tracking needles and to Bill and Pam. I use the internet a great deal to find things out. For instance I found a great site (http://www.batteryuniversity.com/index.htm) the other day when trying to consider how long to charge batteries. But it is sites like this where experience really is helpful. Sometimes one can't even wade through all the information on line - like the site I had visited but missed what Pam had pointed out. I also really appreciate it when those who do make the effort to find sites of information to post generally or to specific questions. Regarding keeping track of needles. I did have a needle tracker and I agree it was one of the best things I have ever purchased. It is on another machine and one of the slidy things is missing. I can't find one here in town but will be looking in my travels this summer. I did use the labelled tomato pin cushion, but found with the great number of needles out there wasn't enough space, so I made a fabric book (like did as a pin cushion as a craft in some organization as a child). I can add 'pages' or remove them as I need. However, based on info I have found in these discussions, I am making a concentrated effort not to reuse needles. But I still do. *~*~*~* Nancy*~*~*~* " I try to take one day at a time - but sometimes several days attack me at once."
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User: Sancin
Member since: 02-13-2005 Total posts: 895
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From: guppie
Date: 07-04-2006, 02:26 AM (14 of 18)
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Hey, Bill--I tried to putt but missed the hole. I think I'm much better at driving! I, too, would like to thank Pam and Bill and all for the fabulous information. Where else could I get the info I need at 2 am? The NeedleTrak is available at Nancy's Notions and Clotilde--$6.98 regular price, on sale at Clotilde for $4.68, plus shipping. NAYY, have not seen them in local chain stores or other fabric stores. May be available elsewhere online. Might have to pick up a couple more--they are such a helpful reminder! I wanna read and play more, but I gotta get to bed  . Got parade traffic control in the am, better be awake for it!Have a safe and fun-filled Independence Day! 
Cathy
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User: guppie
Member since: 12-29-2004 Total posts: 43
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From: paroper
Date: 07-04-2006, 07:20 AM (15 of 18)
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You're welcome. I use a bulletin board above my sewing area for needles of all kinds. pam
Bernina 200e, Artista V5 Designer Plus, Explorations, Magic Box, Bernina 2000DE & 335 Bernette Serger, Bernina 1530 Sewing Machine, Bernina 1300 DC Overlock (with coverstitch) |
User: paroper
Member since: 02-03-2004 Total posts: 3775 |
From: bridesmom
Date: 07-04-2006, 12:04 PM (16 of 18)
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Nanct just my 2 cents worth on reading those tiny letters on the needles. I take a med point black felt pen and run it down where the engraved numbers are, then take my 99 cent magnifying glass and read it. The felt marker does wipe off afterwards quite easily, and then I stick them in a piece of cotton that I have written the different sizes and types on which hangs above my sewing machine. I don't throw them out unless I have a few hours on the needle and when I do toss them I use a 35mm film container that has a hole poked through the top of the cap, when its full, it goes into the garbage as a unit.
Laura
Tickled pink with my Innovis 4000D |
User: bridesmom
Member since: 01-21-2004 Total posts: 2026 |
From: lvquilts
Date: 07-16-2006, 07:23 PM (17 of 18)
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I wanted to share a couple more pieces of information I just learned while reading Harriet Hargrave's Heirloom Machine Quilting Book: The top of the Schmetz needle packs are magnified making it easier to read the numbers. And... A 10% failure rate in a package of new needles is not unusual. Bottom line, even if your needle is new, it might be a damaged new needle and need replacement if you're having problems with your stitching. lvquilts |
User: lvquilts
Member since: 07-16-2006 Total posts: 29 |
From: DorothyL
Date: 07-16-2006, 08:02 PM (18 of 18)
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I just had a brand new serger needle with a big burr in it make my life difficult. Dorothy |
User: DorothyL
Member since: 12-09-2002 Total posts: 3883 |
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